(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

8 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 13,798 posts in this topic. You are on page 253 of 276.
#12601 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

I am getting#70 rescue the i think stuck open on my test report any advice ?

This happens to me all the time. It always fixes its self after 1 play...

#12602 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

This happens to me all the time. It always fixes its self after 1 play...

If a switch isn't hit in 30 balls or ten games it gets flagged.

Doesn't always mean something is broken.

LTG : )

#12603 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It's most likely one or more of the RESCUE standup targets on the castle mini-pf haven't been activated in a long time. This happens frequently because some of those targets are hard to hit and most players don't typically really aim for them but shoot the loop or bash the door and put the ball in to light the letters. Those standups are also designed to take hard hits and need to be adjusted for them to be makeable on that mini-pf. First go into switch test and manually activate each one with your finger and make sure they all register. Assuming they do begin adjusting any that are too hard to activate manually as you would any leaf switch. I would also clean each of them using heavy paper / a business card, again just like you would any leaf switch.

its exactly as you said .Done and solved where do i send the check

#12604 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

its exactly as you said .Done and solved where do i send the check

thank you

#12605 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

its exactly as you said .Done and solved where do i send the check

S&S Billiards, Hopkins MN.

#12606 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

S&S Billiards, Hopkins MN.

I'm still chuckling over that one.

Thank you for the day brightener bobukcat !

LTG : )

#12607 1 year ago

Just installed the new code (7.03?). My machine doesn't play the awesome attract music at the end of the game like it used to. Is there a setting I have to set with this new code? I saved all my settings to USB first and restored them, but this is the only thing it's not doing like it used to.

#12608 1 year ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Just installed the new code (7.03?). My machine doesn't play the awesome attract music at the end of the game like it used to. Is there a setting I have to set with this new code? I saved all my settings to USB first and restored them, but this is the only thing it's not doing like it used to.

There is a software bug with the game over music not playing in 7.03. It has been reported and is in the backlog to fix. I am just going off of info from the beta Telegram group and thought I would relay here, so that you aren't wondering if something is wrong with your game.

#12609 1 year ago

Yes. Works fine without the WiFi or Bluetooth dongles.
You won't be able to use WiFi or Bluetooth until you get dongles in later.
LTG : )</
I love the last update. After hearing this, I believe I will wait on this one.Jersey Jack will make it right.

#12610 1 year ago

I love the last update. After hearing this, I believe I will wait, Jersey Jack will fix it.

#12611 1 year ago

Apologies for the newbie style post.

Anyone know what type of diode works with the autolaunch coil?

Thanks in advance.

#12612 1 year ago
Quoted from DwightEisenhower:

Apologies for the newbie style post.
Anyone know what type of diode works with the autolaunch coil?
Thanks in advance.

No diode. The diode is on the driver board itself, so you don't have to put it on the coil.

#12613 1 year ago

Has anybody with a noisy PSU inside their game replaced it? I'm talking about the one that powers the PC. It's super loud in my Ruby Red compared to the ones in Dialed-In or MMR.

Did you use a replacement from JJP? Order a new PSU from NewEgg? I can handle the task of replacing it I just want to get the right style of PSU and also one that's super quiet!

Thanks for any help.

#12614 1 year ago

Just removed the coil and it appears to have a diode. I have a RR edition if that matters.

Quoted from pinballj:

No diode. The diode is on the driver board itself, so you don't have to put it on the coil.

#12615 1 year ago
Quoted from DwightEisenhower:

Just removed the coil and it appears to have a diode. I have a RR edition if that matters.

Some games, some coils, have them. They aren't needed.

LTG : )

#12616 1 year ago

If stated by LTG, it must be true. Replacing coil now.

Quoted from LTG:

Some games, some coils, have them. They aren't needed.
LTG : )

#12617 1 year ago

Anyone have any interest in a slightly damaged RR Backglass? Mine developed a small section that is peeling off the glass in the top right corner and I had to have it replaced. I don't really know what it would be worth or even how much shipping would cost but I did put a piece of tape over that corner to try to prevent any more peeling and it is in the same shipping box my new one arrived in so it's secured. PM me if you have any interest.

#12618 1 year ago

Still looking for a flying monkey mod for a Ruby Red. If anyone wants to part with theirs ill buy it no questions asked.

#12619 1 year ago

Ok all…. Probably LTG’s expertise but any help is appreciated. I’m guessing it’s my light boards but my lights are all going crazy!! Not out just flickering in all crazy directions. I have the 7.5V buffered boards. To my understanding if the boards go bad they go out. Didn’t know if the boards are going bad they would flicker like crazy. Ideas anyone? If I have to order boards I will just do it but wasn’t sure if that was the problem.

Thanks in advance everyone.

#12620 1 year ago

Usually find the last good one. The one after it going crazy, is the suspect board.

LTG : )

#12621 1 year ago
Quoted from Meri-cah:

Ok all…. Probably LTG’s expertise but any help is appreciated. I’m guessing it’s my light boards but my lights are all going crazy!! Not out just flickering in all crazy directions. I have the 7.5V buffered boards. To my understanding if the boards go bad they go out. Didn’t know if the boards are going bad they would flicker like crazy. Ideas anyone? If I have to order boards I will just do it but wasn’t sure if that was the problem.
Thanks in advance everyone.

Quoted from LTG:

Usually find the last good one. The one after it going crazy, is the suspect board.
LTG : )

Had the same problem a few months ago. In my case it was a bad #3 GI board and a flaky cable going to it. You just need to follow the flow chart in the manual and find the last working one in the chain, the one after it is the suspect board as Lloyd says. Bypass suspect board and disable it in the game software settings, and lights should work again if you found the guilty party. Order replacement from JJP. Good luck!

#12622 1 year ago

My ECMB lock is hanging up again and the release times are at 250 for each lock. What are people setting their lock release times at? Thanks

#12623 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

My ECMB lock is hanging up again and the release times are at 250 for each lock. What are people setting their lock release times at? Thanks

My advice is to check and solve any mechanical issues before tackling the timing settings.

Check the big single screw that holds the arm and coil in place.

Reheat all the wire connections on both coils.

The arm should not move side to side.

The coil tab/adjustment should be inspected so that the magnet isnt so far away that it cant grab the arm solidly.

Properly adjusted, the balls barely make it thru and one will get away once in awhile. Or a ball will slightly touch the arm but still make it out.

Multiple tests will heat up the coil a lot.

You can actually get it to smoke.

Let it cool a bit every so often.

And just because it works in test, it may need further adjustment "in game".

It will go quite awhile before needing adjustments again.

Im seeing slight adjustments needed every 2500 to 3500 games.

Mostly coil tab adjustments.

The timings stay mostly the same.

#12624 1 year ago

Well after much troubleshooting with each board one at a time there is a good possibility that the main FTYBR board is bad. Problem is the issue is intermittent and it’s not just one board. Somewhere there is an issue that occasionally causes ALL the lights to flicker and go crazy. No matter which board I bypass it still sometimes happens. Very weird but it is what it is. Seems to be working the best by bypassing the main board and turning it off in the system settings. JJP responded that MAYBE by the end of the year they would have 2.0 light boards in stock. Pretty shitty if you ask me since JJP fully is aware of the light board issue and can’t even offer the upgraded boards for sale. Hopefully it’s sooner rather than later that I can drop a lovely $800 on the new boards.

#12625 1 year ago
Quoted from Meri-cah:

Well after much troubleshooting with each board one at a time there is a good possibility that the main FTYBR board is bad. Problem is the issue is intermittent and it’s not just one board. Somewhere there is an issue that occasionally causes ALL the lights to flicker and go crazy. No matter which board I bypass it still sometimes happens. Very weird but it is what it is. Seems to be working the best by bypassing the main board and turning it off in the system settings. JJP responded that MAYBE by the end of the year they would have 2.0 light boards in stock. Pretty shitty if you ask me since JJP fully is aware of the light board issue and can’t even offer the upgraded boards for sale. Hopefully it’s sooner rather than later that I can drop a lovely $800 on the new boards.

They do offer the 2.0 boards for sale you just need to get on their list. I got mine after about a two month wait. I have the 7.5 boards with no issues but wanted the upgraded ones just incase.

#12626 1 year ago
Quoted from Flash71:

They do offer the 2.0 boards for sale you just need to get on their list. I got mine after about a two month wait. I have the 7.5 boards with no issues but wanted the upgraded ones just incase.

Do you find the 2.0 boards darker than the 7.5?

#12627 1 year ago

I have a RR edition with build date of 12/2/14. I need to replace my #21 GI board.

Do I need to order a 5v or 7.5v?

I *think* it's a 7.5v but thought it wise to check here first.

Thanks

#12628 1 year ago
Quoted from DwightEisenhower:

I have a RR edition with build date of 12/2/14. I need to replace my #21 GI board.
Do I need to order a 5v or 7.5v?
I *think* it's a 7.5v but thought it wise to check here first.
Thanks

JJP switched their light boards from 5v to 7.5v around mid-September of 2013. I have a WOZECLE with a 10/24/2013 build date and it has all 7.5v light boards. Your game has 7.5v light boards.

Gord

#12629 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

JJP switched their light boards from 5v to 7.5v around mid-September of 2013. I have a WOZECLE with a 10/24/2013 build date and it has all 7.5v light boards. Your game has 7.5v light boards.
Gord

Thanks!

#12630 1 year ago

To be 100% sure pop you’re Playfield up and look at the boards. They will have 5v or 7.5v on the board itself.

#12631 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Do you find the 2.0 boards darker than the 7.5?

Yes.

#12632 1 year ago
Quoted from Meri-cah:

Well after much troubleshooting with each board one at a time there is a good possibility that the main FTYBR board is bad. Problem is the issue is intermittent and it’s not just one board. Somewhere there is an issue that occasionally causes ALL the lights to flicker and go crazy. No matter which board I bypass it still sometimes happens. Very weird but it is what it is. Seems to be working the best by bypassing the main board and turning it off in the system settings. JJP responded that MAYBE by the end of the year they would have 2.0 light boards in stock. Pretty shitty if you ask me since JJP fully is aware of the light board issue and can’t even offer the upgraded boards for sale. Hopefully it’s sooner rather than later that I can drop a lovely $800 on the new boards.

I assume you've tried reseating the cables? I found a bad one contributing to the symptoms like you're having.

#12633 1 year ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

I assume you've tried reseating the cables? I found a bad one contributing to the symptoms like you're having.

Yes. I removed and reseated every cable. It was just weird to me that all the boards have flashing issues when it occurs. Not like one has gone out or caused the issue. I’ve bypassed boards both with cables and in the system. Even shutting off possibly suspect boards the issue still persists. But it’s intermittent.

I have sent the email requesting to be added to a 2.0 light board list. I have always figured this day would be coming since I have a 2014 build with 7.5v buffered boards. In the end it’ll be an $800 fix given the cost of the boards. I just hope JJP doesn’t inflate the cost any more given this should have been corrected in the first place.

#12634 1 year ago

You could have just a bad cat5 cable some were too, and not a board issue.

If it's flickering on all the boards. I would replace the very first cat5 cable in the chain.

#12635 1 year ago
Quoted from teddyb73:

You could have just a bad cat5 cable some were too, and not a board issue.
If it's flickering on all the boards. I would replace the very first cat5 cable in the chain.

Rev 1 doesn't use cat5, but version 2 does.

#12636 1 year ago
Quoted from Meri-cah:

Yes. I removed and reseated every cable. It was just weird to me that all the boards have flashing issues when it occurs. Not like one has gone out or caused the issue. I’ve bypassed boards both with cables and in the system. Even shutting off possibly suspect boards the issue still persists. But it’s intermittent.
I have sent the email requesting to be added to a 2.0 light board list. I have always figured this day would be coming since I have a 2014 build with 7.5v buffered boards. In the end it’ll be an $800 fix given the cost of the boards. I just hope JJP doesn’t inflate the cost any more given this should have been corrected in the first place.

Did you also reseat the ones on the motherboard side ? Sometimes when I lift the playfield, the harness pulls with it which pull on the Mobo side.

#12637 12 months ago

Scorbit announcing release of v1.1.0 today, it's a big one for us:

https://scorbit.io/major-app-update-scorbit-version-1-1-is-here/

#12638 12 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

Did you also reseat the ones on the motherboard side ? Sometimes when I lift the playfield, the harness pulls with it which pull on the Mobo side.

I did check and reseat almost all the cables. I’m out of town for the holiday and when I get back I’m going to try again. I’m not convinced it’s a board issue given every board is affected. Even with bypassing boards.

Thanks for all the tips from everyone. I will report back in about a week or two

#12639 12 months ago
Quoted from Meri-cah:

I did check and reseat almost all the cables. I’m out of town for the holiday and when I get back I’m going to try again. I’m not convinced it’s a board issue given every board is affected. Even with bypassing boards.
Thanks for all the tips from everyone. I will report back in about a week or two

If every board is affected, it is likely the very first board in the chain. Did you try just bypassing that one?

#12640 11 months ago

Whoever said this game has no flow has to be crazy. The left outlane has more flow than two Lawlers combined.

#12641 11 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Whoever said this game has no flow has to be crazy. The left outlane has more flow than two Lawlers combined.

That one is really hard to hit, but everytime I hit it, I feel the gloriousness

#12642 11 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Whoever said this game has no flow has to be crazy. The left outlane has more flow than two Lawlers combined.

Check you audits for left outlane vs right outlane drains.

You might level it .1 degrees towards the right to balance out the game play.

I do this all the time. I like to see mostly even drains in the audits.

#12643 11 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Whoever said this game has no flow has to be crazy. The left outlane has more flow than two Lawlers combined.

Move the post in maniac. Or burn the game down. Either or.

#12644 11 months ago
Quoted from Uberlit:

Move the post in maniac. Or burn the game down. Either or.

I've found that moving the post in on this game has a pretty minimal effect on drains and actually prevents the pop from occasionally sending the ball back up the lane. I have better luck adjusting the right sling strength and playfield slope to help eliminate them but no matter what, it's still a bitch.

#12645 11 months ago
Quoted from Uberlit:

Move the post in maniac. Or burn the game down. Either or.

Cheater! Lol

#12646 11 months ago

Found the culprit!! After several hours of “plug and play and test and turn off and etc etc etc” I located this faulty GI board. Of course this one was located UNDER the castle playfield. One that I didn’t touch before. I was thankfully able to reach in from the left side and bypass the board. The machine is back to running perfect and this light board only illuminated the one post light in the castle playfield that’s located UNDER the spot light. So you can’t even tell it’s missing!

At this point I’ll probably just order the single replacement from JJP. Unless one of the huge main boards go out I don’t think it would be a good investment to move to the 2.0 boards. Especially since they have reported to be much darker.

Thanks to everyone here for all the tips. It was a pain in the a$$ but in the end my game is up and running perfect again.

Cheers! Time for alcohol and pinball

2C6AABE7-FE40-4883-ABA9-AC91CE7E5D93.jpeg
#12647 11 months ago
Quoted from Meri-cah:

Found the culprit!! After several hours of “plug and play and test and turn off and etc etc etc” I located this faulty GI board. Of course this one was located UNDER the castle playfield. One that I didn’t touch before. I was thankfully able to reach in from the left side and bypass the board. The machine is back to running perfect and this light board only illuminated the one post light in the castle playfield that’s located UNDER the spot light. So you can’t even tell it’s missing!
At this point I’ll probably just order the single replacement from JJP. Unless one of the huge main boards go out I don’t think it would be a good investment to move to the 2.0 boards. Especially since they have reported to be much darker.
Thanks to everyone here for all the tips. It was a pain in the a$$ but in the end my game is up and running perfect again.
Cheers! Time for alcohol and pinball
[quoted image]

Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to order a spare one while you're at it. Hopefully you'll never need it, but convenient to have on hand if you did. Congrats on the repair, knew you'd eventually track the culprit down!

#12648 11 months ago

Hi all. I have purchased a wifi USB adapter for my WOZ. It needs a software installation to use. If I plug it in to the "door" usb before starting the game it of course tries to boot of it unsuccessfully. Anyone know how I can install the software into the WOZ to use the adapter? Thanks

#12649 11 months ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Anyone know how I can install the software into the WOZ to use the adapter? Thanks

Instructions are on the JJP website. You need to do a full install of the current software on the website. With a USB stick.

Then you can hook up WiFi / WiFi dongle, and or Bluetooth dongle. WiFi for Scorbit, Bluetooth for head phones, etc.

LTG : )

#12650 11 months ago

Thanks Lloyd. Did the upgrade and the menu comes up to connect to wifi, but with the usb dongle plugged in is still says "cannot detect wifi network". I believe you need to install the driver software for the dongle before it will work. It's this installation I'm not sure how to do.

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