WOZ Fan Club - members only

Quoted from fnosm:
Would you mind digging up your invoice? I was an ECLE original buyer at 7500 (I know earlier folks only paid 6K) with a deposit in by September of 2011. In November of 2013 I ponied up an additional 1500 for the RR. Because the price was 9K. I have heard of others saying their RR was 8500 but I haven't seen it. It doesn't make much difference but I am trying to confirm if the RR was being sold for 8500. If so was shipping extra or was it included?

Mine was from Automated, Pinball’s. com. Free shipping,$8500. They were higher, other places. I got invisiglass, the others did not. Only thing bad, manual was on a disc. Had to have one printed. It was #34, was offered others, all under 50. At the time, it was the highest pinball ever. I remember it was also at 9K , other sellers. Invisiglass was extra.

#12502 2 years ago

HIPPY

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from HIPPY:
Mine was from Automated, Pinball’s. com. Free shipping,$8500. They were higher, other places. I got invisiglass, the others did not. Only thing bad, manual was on a disc. Had to have one printed. It was #34, was offered others, all under 50. At the time, it was the highest pinball ever. I remember it was also at 9K , other sellers. Invisiglass was extra.

My built sticker says 12-2014.

#12503 2 years ago

JCH

Rager170

Pinside member

Quoted from fnosm:
Would you mind digging up your invoice? I was an ECLE original buyer at 7500 (I know earlier folks only paid 6K) with a deposit in by September of 2011. In November of 2013 I ponied up an additional 1500 for the RR. Because the price was 9K. I have heard of others saying their RR was 8500 but I haven't seen it. It doesn't make much difference but I am trying to confirm if the RR was being sold for 8500. If so was shipping extra or was it included?

Great prices back then....

#12504 2 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Quoted from fnosm:
Would you mind digging up your invoice? I was an ECLE original buyer at 7500 (I know earlier folks only paid 6K) with a deposit in by September of 2011. In November of 2013 I ponied up an additional 1500 for the RR. Because the price was 9K. I have heard of others saying their RR was 8500 but I haven't seen it. It doesn't make much difference but I am trying to confirm if the RR was being sold for 8500. If so was shipping extra or was it included?

I was a buyer in the first week of offering. Before i knew what the title was! Lol.

Paid $6500 + $418 shipping.

Waited 3 years....

I love the game.

#12505 2 years ago

KAT

merccat

Pinside member

7y 101K 2,613 10

Bought my ECLE 5-19-2016... 5 years ago now, seems like yesterday. I will have to go down and look for its build date but if memory serves me it was Nov 2015.

#12506 2 years ago

WES

fossmin

Pinside+ Frequent

Olney, MD

9y 64,300 886 23

I have been looking for a WoZ emerald city or ruby red edition. I have been offered a standard. Other than cosmetics (aprons, colored metal, etc.) is there any difference in the playfield or mechs that are not on the standard model? I can always have the metal powder coated.

Thanks

#12507 2 years ago

MSF

Nokoro

Pinside+ Frequent

10y 137K 5,484 18

Quoted from fossmin:
I have been looking for a WoZ emerald city or ruby red edition. I have been offered a standard. Other than cosmetics (aprons, colored metal, etc.) is there any difference in the playfield or mechs that are not on the standard model? I can always have the metal powder coated.
Thanks

Nope. The only difference is bling. Both play exactly the same.

EDIT: Not sure if the standard came with a shaker but one can always be added, I suppose.

Post last edited 2 years ago: “More info. ”

#12508 2 years ago

WES

fossmin

Pinside+ Frequent

Olney, MD

9y 64,300 886 23

Quoted from Nokoro:
Nope. The only difference is bling. Both play exactly the same.
EDIT: Not sure if the standard came with a shaker but one can always be added, I suppose.

Thanks for the info. Shaker is supposedly added to this standard.

#12509 2 years ago

DUG

dug

Pinside+ Frequent

12y 91,050 2,238

Quoted from Nokoro:
Nope. The only difference is bling. Both play exactly the same.
EDIT: Not sure if the standard came with a shaker but one can always be added, I suppose.

Invisiglass did not come on the standard.

#12510 2 years ago

JCH

Rager170

Pinside member

Quoted from dug:
Invisiglass did not come on the standard.

Thats considered "bling" haha. Not changing the gameplay..

#12511 2 years ago

MIK

MrMikeman

Pinside+ Pro!

4y 114K 3,368 7

Quoted from Rager170:
Thats considered "bling" haha. Not changing the gameplay..

Actually I'd say it does affect gameplay since this game is so friggin dark... Any reflections will make it a PITA to play if the gameroom is dark.

#12512 2 years ago

MSF

Nokoro

Pinside+ Frequent

10y 137K 5,484 18

Quoted from Rager170:
Thats considered "bling" haha. Not changing the gameplay..

Funny. I was wondering whether to mention that, but I had the same thought. Invisiglass is bling.

Not sure if the shaker should be called bling or a mech. It doesn’t interact with the ball. I guess it’s bling for your senses.

#12513 2 years ago

DUG

dug

Pinside+ Frequent

12y 91,050 2,238

Quoted from Nokoro:
Funny. I was wondering whether to mention that, but I had the same thought. Invisiglass is bling.
Not sure if the shaker should be called bling or a mech. It doesn’t interact with the ball. I guess it’s bling for your senses.

Good point.

#12514 2 years ago

SGT

Uberlit

Inactive member

St. Louis, MO

7y 32,800 51 2

Synchronized Pinstadiums really take the game to another level as far as lighting goes. Does it make lights out much easier? Yeah a little but the game is ridiculously hard anyway. I 100% recommend you add them.

#12515 2 years ago

IEH

iEatHands

Pinside member

Sydney

8y 43,050 193 6 10

Hey all! My Monkey ball lock switch is toast.. no longer clicks when pressed and isn't registering the monkey dropping the ball onto the castle mini playfield.

I looked up the part number but it doesn't return any hits for the particular switch. Any tips on which switch would be a drop in replacement?

Monkey Ball Lock Switch (resized).png

#12516 2 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

Quoted from iEatHands:
Any tips on which switch would be a drop in replacement?

Look at the wire arm of it and compare to micro mini switches on pinball part suppliers websites.

Looks like this - https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-rollover-sub-microswitch-5647-12693-19.html

LTG : )

#12517 2 years ago

WES

fossmin

Pinside+ Frequent

Olney, MD

9y 64,300 886 23

I confused on the light boards. I've seen referenced 5.0 and 7.5, as well as 1.0 and 2.0. Are there 4 different or are 5.0/1.0 and 7.5/2.0 the same?

Thanks

#12518 2 years ago

MIK

MrMikeman

Pinside+ Pro!

4y 114K 3,368 7

Quoted from fossmin:
I confused on the light boards. I've seen referenced 5.0 and 7.5, as well as 1.0 and 2.0. Are there 4 different or are 5.0/1.0 and 7.5/2.0 the same?
Thanks

IIRC

The old boards run on 7.5v

The new boards(2.0) run on 5v.

#12519 2 years ago

JCH

Rager170

Pinside member

Quoted from Nokoro:
Funny. I was wondering whether to mention that, but I had the same thought. Invisiglass is bling.
Not sure if the shaker should be called bling or a mech. It doesn’t interact with the ball. I guess it’s bling for your senses.

Shaker is bling also. Doesnt change the gameplay...

#12520 2 years ago

JCH

Rager170

Pinside member

Quoted from MrMikeman:
Actually I'd say it does affect gameplay since this game is so friggin dark... Any reflections will make it a PITA to play if the gameroom is dark.

Yea, nope! lol haha. The gameplay doesnt change regardless of lighting.

#12521 2 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,459

Quoted from fossmin:
I confused on the light boards. I've seen referenced 5.0 and 7.5, as well as 1.0 and 2.0. Are there 4 different or are 5.0/1.0 and 7.5/2.0 the same?
Thanks

There were a few different iterations of the original lighting system, I think it's best to just think of them all as 1.x. These include 5V, 7.5 and 7.5 buffered, I may have missed one other one but again they are all essentially 1.x. The "new" system is 2.x and I say that because as I've discovered there are variations, at least with regards to the individual "GI" boards, and you still need to make sure you get the proper one if you have to replace it for some reason. 2.x is more reliable than any 1.x from the standpoint of one board not impacting all the others down the chain which can essentially make the game unplayable. If a 2.x board goes out or loses a single color it does not impact any other LEDs in the game.

#12522 2 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,459

Quoted from Nokoro:
Nope. The only difference is bling. Both play exactly the same.
EDIT: Not sure if the standard came with a shaker but one can always be added, I suppose.

Important to remember when looking at used RRs is that they did not originally include the shaker or invisiglass, those were both optional upgrades until they raised the price to $9500 and included them as well as a printed manual.

-1

#12523 2 years ago

HIPPY

Pinside+ Frequent

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/illuminated-flipper-button-kit?variant=31369512812646

I own a RR bought nib in 2014. I have been through electrical issues before. I would like to know if anyone has purchased the Brite mods flipper button leds from Pinball Life. Any issues? Thanks.

#12524 2 years ago

NWR

paulbaptiste

Pinside+ Frequent

Danville, IL

4y 128K 2,187 16 17 1

Quoted from HIPPY:
I own a RR bought nib in 2014. I have been through electrical issues before. I would like to know if anyone has purchased the Brite mods flipper button leds from Pinball Life. Any issues? Thanks.

I've not purchased them from pinball life, but have the comet version in all my JJP games with no issues.

As long as they are 12v you should be good to go.

#12525 2 years ago

HIPPY

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from paulbaptiste:
I've not purchased them from pinball life, but have the comet version in all my JJP games with no issues.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/illuminated-flipper-button-kit?variant=31369512812646
As long as they are 12v you should be good to go.

I use their version in a few of my games, work good, easy. I didn’t know they did JJP. Always cautious with them. I will do that. Thanks.

#12526 2 years ago

MSL

Medic

Pinside+ Frequent

4y 65,800 718

Hi. Is it normal for the ball to get stuck at this location? It has been happening frequently and was wondering if I can prevent it somehow thanks.

895CA3BE-50C2-44BA-A4CE-D0EEC85133F8 (resized).jpeg

#12527 2 years ago

MIK

MrMikeman

Pinside+ Pro!

4y 114K 3,368 7

Quoted from Medic:
Hi. Is it normal for the ball to get stuck at this location? It has been happening frequently and was wondering if I can prevent it somehow thanks.
[quoted image]

Your are missing the drop target. likely broke and fell in the cabinet. You need to buy a replacement drop target.

#12528 2 years ago

TIM

jukeboxtim

Pinside+ Frequent

Fort Wayne, IN

8y 32,900 56 1

I installed the new update version 7.02 on my Ruby Red WOZ a few months back and the upper right flipper right above wizard keeps flapping continually while flipper button is pressed. The lower flipper stays energized while this right upper flipper keeps flapping. Should I reinstall software update? It was not doing this before the software update.any other thing to check.Thanks Tim

#12529 2 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Quoted from jukeboxtim:
I installed the new update version 7.02 on my Ruby Red WOZ a few months back and the upper right flipper right above wizard keeps flapping continually while flipper button is pressed. The lower flipper stays energized while this right upper flipper keeps flapping. Should I reinstall software update? It was not doing this before the software update.any other thing to check.Thanks Tim

I would try that first.

#12530 2 years ago

A55

Mcgringoloco

Pinside+ Frequent

3y 42,050 86 21

Quoted from Medic:
Hi. Is it normal for the ball to get stuck at this location? It has been happening frequently and was wondering if I can prevent it somehow thanks.
[quoted image]

You can adjust the height of the drop target to make it level with the playfield when dropped

#12531 2 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Quoted from Mcgringoloco:
You can adjust the height of the drop target to make it level with the playfield when dropped

Unless is broken off and sitting in the bottom of the cabinet....

Pretty common for this game.

#12532 2 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

Quoted from jukeboxtim:
Should I reinstall software update?

I'd go into Tests - Dedicated Switches - and slowly push the flipper button in and then hold. If both work and stay closed, then your issue is the coil. Hold winding. Broken wire, bad solder joint on the coil lugs, or a crack or break in the thin wire from the coil windings to the coil lug - you may have to dig around them to see it.

LTG : )

#12533 2 years ago

TIM

jukeboxtim

Pinside+ Frequent

Fort Wayne, IN

8y 32,900 56 1

LTG. Thanks for the great info I will check out the switch test and check for loose wiring on coil Thanks Tim

#12534 2 years ago

DAV

adol75

Pinside member

San Francisco, CA

5y 57,300 2,076 2

I had to change the rubber on the sling under the munchkin playgirls, easy that part went great.

My problem is I turned the house counter clockwise (I know I'm dumb clockwise was written in BIG in the tutorial) so now my house is not aligned anymore. I tried changing the delay on the house but it doesn't help.

What can I do ? I want to see the witch's shoes again !

#12535 2 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

https://www.facebook.com/JerseyJackPinball/posts/4463799293638632

Quoted from adol75:
What can I do ?

Try turning it again the right way and then try calibrating it again.

LTG : )

#12536 2 years ago

BBB

SDpinballer

Pinside member

8y 52,800 488 13

Melted the witch last night! Only 4th time that has happened. (Still not very good at pinball...) Just love that part of pinball. Doesn’t get old.

#12537 2 years ago

BOB

bobukcat

Pinside member

9y 99,550 5,459

New code 7.03 released for all models of WOZ and brings wired / wireless networking as well as Bluetooth connectivity. BT and WiFi require you buy an adaptor and install it.

https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/

==============================================================================
== Version 7.03 June 1, 2021 ==
== MD5 Checksum: 73f926d2b2cbe031b87f5d209d9d00a5 ==
==============================================================================

- This is a new baseline ISO. This is not a delta update. Further updates
will use this version as a base.

=== Game Code

* Fixed glitch on the screen that shows up with Balls in Reserve.
* Fixed a bug in hurry-build shot lighter such that when all lit shots are
exhausted the next shot lit could've been one of the last shots lit.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.

=== Core Code

+ Added WiFi and hard-wired networking. This allows for future online update
support. You'll need to install a WiFi dongle or hardwire the game to your
network for this feature to work.
+ Added the option to opt-in to Beta Network Updates.
+ Added initial Scorbit integration.
* Added Player Menu, accessing it by holding the right flipper button in
Attract Mode. This allows for connecting of Bluetooth headphones. You'll
need to install a Bluetooth dongle for this feature to work.
+ Added a shaker motor test.
+ added shaker motor option to Matrixed Switches Test to help find flaky
switches without having to pound on the playfield.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.

Post last edited 2 years ago: “Typo”

Key post

#12538 2 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

Quoted from bobukcat:
BT and WiFi require you buy and adaptor and install it.

To plug into the USB cable by the cashbox, you'll need a USB Hub to plug in more than one dongle.

This is what I use. I'm sure others will work too. https://www.microcenter.com/product/485912/inland-4-port-usb-31-(gen-1-type-a)-hub-black

LTG : )

#12539 2 years ago

JOB

JoshODBrown

The Canadian Arcade

Calgary, AB

8y 54,300 629 3 9

i may be doing the update soon, but wanted to check if not having the Wi-fi adapter at the moment will cause any problems simply installing the update?

I am guessing once I have the Wifi USB adapter, i can simply plug it in and power on the machine and it should be detected? Guessing there must be some utility in the game software now for configuring the Wifi connection, scorbit, etc?

#12540 2 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

Quoted from JoshODBrown:
i may be doing the update soon, but wanted to check if not having the Wi-fi adapter at the moment will cause any problems simply installing the update?

Won't cause any problems. Update is a Full Install.

Quoted from JoshODBrown:
I am guessing once I have the Wifi USB adapter, i can simply plug it in and power on the machine and it should be detected?

Yes.

Quoted from JoshODBrown:
Guessing there must be some utility in the game software now for configuring the Wifi connection, scorbit, etc?

Go into Utilities - Network Stuff - agree to terms and conditions. Choose the WiFi network you want to use. Enter your WiFi password. Then connect to WiFi. Done.

LTG : )

#12541 2 years ago

JOB

JoshODBrown

The Canadian Arcade

Calgary, AB

8y 54,300 629 3 9

Just thought I'd post my update here incase it can help someone else.

Used the UNetbootin utility and Rufus a few times, tried a few USB sticks with no luck... 8GB/16GB, different brands.. game would not recognize it either way. Tried the back USB port, still nothing... the game would just boot up as usual and ignored the USB stick completely. one of my 16GB drives was quite old and I think ive had issues with it in the past, so its hard to say if it was the best one to use or not. I've gone through the same rigamarole in the past with Stern games and trying to find the perfect USB stick... so this didn't surprise me

I have a SanDisk 8GB SDHC card and a generic brand USB SD card reader. I was able to format the card as FAT32 and write the 7.03 image to that with UNetbootin, and it booted and upgraded my game the first try!

#12542 2 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TBSQWYD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00

Quoted from JoshODBrown:
Just thought I'd post my update here incase it can help someone else.
Used the UNetbootin utility and Rufus a few times, tried a few USB sticks with no luck... 8GB/16GB, different brands.. game would not recognize it either way. Tried the back USB port, still nothing... the game would just boot up as usual and ignored the USB stick completely. one of my 16GB drives was quite old and I think ive had issues with it in the past, so its hard to say if it was the best one to use or not. I've gone through the same rigamarole in the past with Stern games and trying to find the perfect USB stick... so this didn't surprise me
I have a SanDisk 8GB SDHC card and a generic brand USB SD card reader. I was able to format the card as FAT32 and write the 7.03 image to that with UNetbootin, and it booted and upgraded my game the first try!

Zero USB failures with USB 2.0 4gb sticks.

Problem is that they are hard to find.

I have had excellent results with kingston data traveler 4gb usb 2.0 sticks off of Amazon as well as supertalent ones.

I also had success with kingston data traveler usb 2.0 8gb drives

I think they are version 9

#12543 2 years ago

MEZ

meSz

Pinside member

12y 102K 7,393

Quoted from JoshODBrown:
Just thought I'd post my update here incase it can help someone else.
Used the UNetbootin utility and Rufus a few times, tried a few USB sticks with no luck... 8GB/16GB, different brands.. game would not recognize it either way. Tried the back USB port, still nothing... the game would just boot up as usual and ignored the USB stick completely. one of my 16GB drives was quite old and I think ive had issues with it in the past, so its hard to say if it was the best one to use or not. I've gone through the same rigamarole in the past with Stern games and trying to find the perfect USB stick... so this didn't surprise me
I have a SanDisk 8GB SDHC card and a generic brand USB SD card reader. I was able to format the card as FAT32 and write the 7.03 image to that with UNetbootin, and it booted and upgraded my game the first try!

Bought these off Amazon and have updated WoZ, Hobbit and GnR with them with no issue, other then one problem which was found to be between the chair and the keyboard!

#12544 2 years ago

???

apinballwiz

Pinside+ Frequent

Upper Darby, PA

8y 58,800 495 1 10

Quoted from LTG:To plug into the USB cable by the cashbox, you'll need a USB Hub to plug in more than one dongle.
This is what I use. I'm sure others will work too. https://www.microcenter.com/product/485912/inland-4-port-usb-31-(gen-1-type-a)-hub-black
LTG : )

Just wondering if there are any extra USB ports on the motherboard? (I'd look myself but don't have access to my game at the moment).

#12545 2 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

Quoted from apinballwiz:
Just wondering if there are any extra USB ports on the motherboard?

Doesn't look like it in the manual. Page D-152 and D-153

LTG : )

#12546 2 years ago

???

apinballwiz

Pinside+ Frequent

Upper Darby, PA

8y 58,800 495 1 10

Quoted from LTG:
Doesn't look like it in the manual. Page D-152 and D-153
LTG : )

To Micro Center I go. Thank you Great One!

#12547 2 years ago

TIM

jukeboxtim

Pinside+ Frequent

Fort Wayne, IN

8y 32,900 56 1

LTG Thanks for the tip Right upper flipper is now working great. The red with green trace wire came loose.Look like a poorly solder job at the factory

#12548 2 years ago

BBB

SDpinballer

Pinside member

8y 52,800 488 13

Heh heh... he said dongle

4D89AF1F-114C-42EB-A3C6-590E0BC56219 (resized).jpeg

#12549 2 years ago

HIPPY

Pinside+ Frequent