(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

7 years ago


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There are 13,216 posts in this topic. You are on page 251 of 265.
#12501 8 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Would you mind digging up your invoice? I was an ECLE original buyer at 7500 (I know earlier folks only paid 6K) with a deposit in by September of 2011. In November of 2013 I ponied up an additional 1500 for the RR. Because the price was 9K. I have heard of others saying their RR was 8500 but I haven't seen it. It doesn't make much difference but I am trying to confirm if the RR was being sold for 8500. If so was shipping extra or was it included?

Mine was from Automated, Pinball’s. com. Free shipping,$8500. They were higher, other places. I got invisiglass, the others did not. Only thing bad, manual was on a disc. Had to have one printed. It was #34, was offered others, all under 50. At the time, it was the highest pinball ever. I remember it was also at 9K , other sellers. Invisiglass was extra.

#12502 8 months ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

Mine was from Automated, Pinball’s. com. Free shipping,$8500. They were higher, other places. I got invisiglass, the others did not. Only thing bad, manual was on a disc. Had to have one printed. It was #34, was offered others, all under 50. At the time, it was the highest pinball ever. I remember it was also at 9K , other sellers. Invisiglass was extra.

My built sticker says 12-2014.

#12503 8 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Would you mind digging up your invoice? I was an ECLE original buyer at 7500 (I know earlier folks only paid 6K) with a deposit in by September of 2011. In November of 2013 I ponied up an additional 1500 for the RR. Because the price was 9K. I have heard of others saying their RR was 8500 but I haven't seen it. It doesn't make much difference but I am trying to confirm if the RR was being sold for 8500. If so was shipping extra or was it included?

Great prices back then....

#12504 8 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Would you mind digging up your invoice? I was an ECLE original buyer at 7500 (I know earlier folks only paid 6K) with a deposit in by September of 2011. In November of 2013 I ponied up an additional 1500 for the RR. Because the price was 9K. I have heard of others saying their RR was 8500 but I haven't seen it. It doesn't make much difference but I am trying to confirm if the RR was being sold for 8500. If so was shipping extra or was it included?

I was a buyer in the first week of offering. Before i knew what the title was! Lol.

Paid $6500 + $418 shipping.

Waited 3 years....

I love the game.

#12505 8 months ago

Bought my ECLE 5-19-2016... 5 years ago now, seems like yesterday. I will have to go down and look for its build date but if memory serves me it was Nov 2015.

#12506 8 months ago

I have been looking for a WoZ emerald city or ruby red edition. I have been offered a standard. Other than cosmetics (aprons, colored metal, etc.) is there any difference in the playfield or mechs that are not on the standard model? I can always have the metal powder coated.

Thanks

#12507 8 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

I have been looking for a WoZ emerald city or ruby red edition. I have been offered a standard. Other than cosmetics (aprons, colored metal, etc.) is there any difference in the playfield or mechs that are not on the standard model? I can always have the metal powder coated.
Thanks

Nope. The only difference is bling. Both play exactly the same.

EDIT: Not sure if the standard came with a shaker but one can always be added, I suppose.

#12508 8 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Nope. The only difference is bling. Both play exactly the same.
EDIT: Not sure if the standard came with a shaker but one can always be added, I suppose.

Thanks for the info. Shaker is supposedly added to this standard.

#12509 8 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Nope. The only difference is bling. Both play exactly the same.
EDIT: Not sure if the standard came with a shaker but one can always be added, I suppose.

Invisiglass did not come on the standard.

#12510 8 months ago
Quoted from dug:

Invisiglass did not come on the standard.

Thats considered "bling" haha. Not changing the gameplay..

#12511 8 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Thats considered "bling" haha. Not changing the gameplay..

Actually I'd say it does affect gameplay since this game is so friggin dark... Any reflections will make it a PITA to play if the gameroom is dark.

#12512 8 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Thats considered "bling" haha. Not changing the gameplay..

Funny. I was wondering whether to mention that, but I had the same thought. Invisiglass is bling.

Not sure if the shaker should be called bling or a mech. It doesn’t interact with the ball. I guess it’s bling for your senses.

#12513 8 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Funny. I was wondering whether to mention that, but I had the same thought. Invisiglass is bling.
Not sure if the shaker should be called bling or a mech. It doesn’t interact with the ball. I guess it’s bling for your senses.

Good point.

#12514 8 months ago

Synchronized Pinstadiums really take the game to another level as far as lighting goes. Does it make lights out much easier? Yeah a little but the game is ridiculously hard anyway. I 100% recommend you add them.

#12515 8 months ago

Hey all! My Monkey ball lock switch is toast.. no longer clicks when pressed and isn't registering the monkey dropping the ball onto the castle mini playfield.

I looked up the part number but it doesn't return any hits for the particular switch. Any tips on which switch would be a drop in replacement?

Monkey Ball Lock Switch (resized).png
#12516 8 months ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

Any tips on which switch would be a drop in replacement?

Look at the wire arm of it and compare to micro mini switches on pinball part suppliers websites.

Looks like this - https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-rollover-sub-microswitch-5647-12693-19.html

LTG : )

#12517 8 months ago

I confused on the light boards. I've seen referenced 5.0 and 7.5, as well as 1.0 and 2.0. Are there 4 different or are 5.0/1.0 and 7.5/2.0 the same?

Thanks

#12518 8 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

I confused on the light boards. I've seen referenced 5.0 and 7.5, as well as 1.0 and 2.0. Are there 4 different or are 5.0/1.0 and 7.5/2.0 the same?
Thanks

IIRC

The old boards run on 7.5v

The new boards(2.0) run on 5v.

#12519 8 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Funny. I was wondering whether to mention that, but I had the same thought. Invisiglass is bling.
Not sure if the shaker should be called bling or a mech. It doesn’t interact with the ball. I guess it’s bling for your senses.

Shaker is bling also. Doesnt change the gameplay...

#12520 8 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Actually I'd say it does affect gameplay since this game is so friggin dark... Any reflections will make it a PITA to play if the gameroom is dark.

Yea, nope! lol haha. The gameplay doesnt change regardless of lighting.

#12521 8 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

I confused on the light boards. I've seen referenced 5.0 and 7.5, as well as 1.0 and 2.0. Are there 4 different or are 5.0/1.0 and 7.5/2.0 the same?
Thanks

There were a few different iterations of the original lighting system, I think it's best to just think of them all as 1.x. These include 5V, 7.5 and 7.5 buffered, I may have missed one other one but again they are all essentially 1.x. The "new" system is 2.x and I say that because as I've discovered there are variations, at least with regards to the individual "GI" boards, and you still need to make sure you get the proper one if you have to replace it for some reason. 2.x is more reliable than any 1.x from the standpoint of one board not impacting all the others down the chain which can essentially make the game unplayable. If a 2.x board goes out or loses a single color it does not impact any other LEDs in the game.

#12522 8 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Nope. The only difference is bling. Both play exactly the same.
EDIT: Not sure if the standard came with a shaker but one can always be added, I suppose.

Important to remember when looking at used RRs is that they did not originally include the shaker or invisiglass, those were both optional upgrades until they raised the price to $9500 and included them as well as a printed manual.

-1
#12523 8 months ago

I own a RR bought nib in 2014. I have been through electrical issues before. I would like to know if anyone has purchased the Brite mods flipper button leds from Pinball Life. Any issues? Thanks.

#12524 8 months ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

I own a RR bought nib in 2014. I have been through electrical issues before. I would like to know if anyone has purchased the Brite mods flipper button leds from Pinball Life. Any issues? Thanks.

I've not purchased them from pinball life, but have the comet version in all my JJP games with no issues.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/illuminated-flipper-button-kit?variant=31369512812646

As long as they are 12v you should be good to go.

#12525 8 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

I've not purchased them from pinball life, but have the comet version in all my JJP games with no issues.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/illuminated-flipper-button-kit?variant=31369512812646
As long as they are 12v you should be good to go.

I use their version in a few of my games, work good, easy. I didn’t know they did JJP. Always cautious with them. I will do that. Thanks.

#12526 7 months ago

Hi. Is it normal for the ball to get stuck at this location? It has been happening frequently and was wondering if I can prevent it somehow thanks.

895CA3BE-50C2-44BA-A4CE-D0EEC85133F8 (resized).jpeg
#12527 7 months ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Hi. Is it normal for the ball to get stuck at this location? It has been happening frequently and was wondering if I can prevent it somehow thanks.
[quoted image]

Your are missing the drop target. likely broke and fell in the cabinet. You need to buy a replacement drop target.

#12528 7 months ago

I installed the new update version 7.02 on my Ruby Red WOZ a few months back and the upper right flipper right above wizard keeps flapping continually while flipper button is pressed. The lower flipper stays energized while this right upper flipper keeps flapping. Should I reinstall software update? It was not doing this before the software update.any other thing to check.Thanks Tim

#12529 7 months ago
Quoted from jukeboxtim:

I installed the new update version 7.02 on my Ruby Red WOZ a few months back and the upper right flipper right above wizard keeps flapping continually while flipper button is pressed. The lower flipper stays energized while this right upper flipper keeps flapping. Should I reinstall software update? It was not doing this before the software update.any other thing to check.Thanks Tim

I would try that first.

#12530 7 months ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Hi. Is it normal for the ball to get stuck at this location? It has been happening frequently and was wondering if I can prevent it somehow thanks.
[quoted image]

You can adjust the height of the drop target to make it level with the playfield when dropped

#12531 7 months ago
Quoted from Mcgringoloco:

You can adjust the height of the drop target to make it level with the playfield when dropped

Unless is broken off and sitting in the bottom of the cabinet....

Pretty common for this game.

#12532 7 months ago
Quoted from jukeboxtim:

Should I reinstall software update?

I'd go into Tests - Dedicated Switches - and slowly push the flipper button in and then hold. If both work and stay closed, then your issue is the coil. Hold winding. Broken wire, bad solder joint on the coil lugs, or a crack or break in the thin wire from the coil windings to the coil lug - you may have to dig around them to see it.

LTG : )

#12533 7 months ago

LTG. Thanks for the great info I will check out the switch test and check for loose wiring on coil Thanks Tim

#12534 7 months ago

I had to change the rubber on the sling under the munchkin playgirls, easy that part went great.

My problem is I turned the house counter clockwise (I know I'm dumb clockwise was written in BIG in the tutorial) so now my house is not aligned anymore. I tried changing the delay on the house but it doesn't help.

What can I do ? I want to see the witch's shoes again !

#12535 7 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

What can I do ?

Try turning it again the right way and then try calibrating it again.

LTG : )

#12536 7 months ago

Melted the witch last night! Only 4th time that has happened. (Still not very good at pinball...) Just love that part of pinball. Doesn’t get old.

#12537 7 months ago

New code 7.03 released for all models of WOZ and brings wired / wireless networking as well as Bluetooth connectivity. BT and WiFi require you buy an adaptor and install it.

https://www.facebook.com/JerseyJackPinball/posts/4463799293638632

https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/

==============================================================================
== Version 7.03 June 1, 2021 ==
== MD5 Checksum: 73f926d2b2cbe031b87f5d209d9d00a5 ==
==============================================================================

- This is a new baseline ISO. This is not a delta update. Further updates
will use this version as a base.

=== Game Code

* Fixed glitch on the screen that shows up with Balls in Reserve.
* Fixed a bug in hurry-build shot lighter such that when all lit shots are
exhausted the next shot lit could've been one of the last shots lit.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.

=== Core Code

+ Added WiFi and hard-wired networking. This allows for future online update
support. You'll need to install a WiFi dongle or hardwire the game to your
network for this feature to work.
+ Added the option to opt-in to Beta Network Updates.
+ Added initial Scorbit integration.
* Added Player Menu, accessing it by holding the right flipper button in
Attract Mode. This allows for connecting of Bluetooth headphones. You'll
need to install a Bluetooth dongle for this feature to work.
+ Added a shaker motor test.
+ added shaker motor option to Matrixed Switches Test to help find flaky
switches without having to pound on the playfield.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.

#12538 7 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

BT and WiFi require you buy and adaptor and install it.

To plug into the USB cable by the cashbox, you'll need a USB Hub to plug in more than one dongle.

This is what I use. I'm sure others will work too. https://www.microcenter.com/product/485912/inland-4-port-usb-31-(gen-1-type-a)-hub-black

LTG : )

#12539 7 months ago

i may be doing the update soon, but wanted to check if not having the Wi-fi adapter at the moment will cause any problems simply installing the update?

I am guessing once I have the Wifi USB adapter, i can simply plug it in and power on the machine and it should be detected? Guessing there must be some utility in the game software now for configuring the Wifi connection, scorbit, etc?

#12540 7 months ago
Quoted from JoshODBrown:

i may be doing the update soon, but wanted to check if not having the Wi-fi adapter at the moment will cause any problems simply installing the update?

Won't cause any problems. Update is a Full Install.

Quoted from JoshODBrown:

I am guessing once I have the Wifi USB adapter, i can simply plug it in and power on the machine and it should be detected?

Yes.

Quoted from JoshODBrown:

Guessing there must be some utility in the game software now for configuring the Wifi connection, scorbit, etc?

Go into Utilities - Network Stuff - agree to terms and conditions. Choose the WiFi network you want to use. Enter your WiFi password. Then connect to WiFi. Done.

LTG : )

#12541 7 months ago

Just thought I'd post my update here incase it can help someone else.

Used the UNetbootin utility and Rufus a few times, tried a few USB sticks with no luck... 8GB/16GB, different brands.. game would not recognize it either way. Tried the back USB port, still nothing... the game would just boot up as usual and ignored the USB stick completely. one of my 16GB drives was quite old and I think ive had issues with it in the past, so its hard to say if it was the best one to use or not. I've gone through the same rigamarole in the past with Stern games and trying to find the perfect USB stick... so this didn't surprise me

I have a SanDisk 8GB SDHC card and a generic brand USB SD card reader. I was able to format the card as FAT32 and write the 7.03 image to that with UNetbootin, and it booted and upgraded my game the first try!

#12542 7 months ago
Quoted from JoshODBrown:

Just thought I'd post my update here incase it can help someone else.
Used the UNetbootin utility and Rufus a few times, tried a few USB sticks with no luck... 8GB/16GB, different brands.. game would not recognize it either way. Tried the back USB port, still nothing... the game would just boot up as usual and ignored the USB stick completely. one of my 16GB drives was quite old and I think ive had issues with it in the past, so its hard to say if it was the best one to use or not. I've gone through the same rigamarole in the past with Stern games and trying to find the perfect USB stick... so this didn't surprise me
I have a SanDisk 8GB SDHC card and a generic brand USB SD card reader. I was able to format the card as FAT32 and write the 7.03 image to that with UNetbootin, and it booted and upgraded my game the first try!

Zero USB failures with USB 2.0 4gb sticks.

Problem is that they are hard to find.

I have had excellent results with kingston data traveler 4gb usb 2.0 sticks off of Amazon as well as supertalent ones.

I also had success with kingston data traveler usb 2.0 8gb drives

I think they are version 9

#12543 7 months ago
Quoted from JoshODBrown:

Just thought I'd post my update here incase it can help someone else.
Used the UNetbootin utility and Rufus a few times, tried a few USB sticks with no luck... 8GB/16GB, different brands.. game would not recognize it either way. Tried the back USB port, still nothing... the game would just boot up as usual and ignored the USB stick completely. one of my 16GB drives was quite old and I think ive had issues with it in the past, so its hard to say if it was the best one to use or not. I've gone through the same rigamarole in the past with Stern games and trying to find the perfect USB stick... so this didn't surprise me
I have a SanDisk 8GB SDHC card and a generic brand USB SD card reader. I was able to format the card as FAT32 and write the 7.03 image to that with UNetbootin, and it booted and upgraded my game the first try!

Bought these off Amazon and have updated WoZ, Hobbit and GnR with them with no issue, other then one problem which was found to be between the chair and the keyboard!

amazon.com link »

#12544 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:To plug into the USB cable by the cashbox, you'll need a USB Hub to plug in more than one dongle.
This is what I use. I'm sure others will work too. https://www.microcenter.com/product/485912/inland-4-port-usb-31-(gen-1-type-a)-hub-black
LTG : )

Just wondering if there are any extra USB ports on the motherboard? (I'd look myself but don't have access to my game at the moment).

#12545 7 months ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Just wondering if there are any extra USB ports on the motherboard?

Doesn't look like it in the manual. Page D-152 and D-153

LTG : )

#12546 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Doesn't look like it in the manual. Page D-152 and D-153
LTG : )

To Micro Center I go. Thank you Great One!

#12547 7 months ago

LTG Thanks for the tip Right upper flipper is now working great. The red with green trace wire came loose.Look like a poorly solder job at the factory

#12548 7 months ago

Heh heh... he said dongle

4D89AF1F-114C-42EB-A3C6-590E0BC56219 (resized).jpeg
#12549 7 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

New code 7.03 released for all models of WOZ and brings wired / wireless networking as well as Bluetooth connectivity. BT and WiFi require you buy an adaptor and install it.
https://www.facebook.com/JerseyJackPinball/posts/4463799293638632
https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/
==============================================================================
== Version 7.03 June 1, 2021 ==
== MD5 Checksum: 73f926d2b2cbe031b87f5d209d9d00a5 ==
==============================================================================
- This is a new baseline ISO. This is not a delta update. Further updates
will use this version as a base.
=== Game Code
* Fixed glitch on the screen that shows up with Balls in Reserve.
* Fixed a bug in hurry-build shot lighter such that when all lit shots are
exhausted the next shot lit could've been one of the last shots lit.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.
=== Core Code
+ Added WiFi and hard-wired networking. This allows for future online update
support. You'll need to install a WiFi dongle or hardwire the game to your
network for this feature to work.
+ Added the option to opt-in to Beta Network Updates.
+ Added initial Scorbit integration.
* Added Player Menu, accessing it by holding the right flipper button in
Attract Mode. This allows for connecting of Bluetooth headphones. You'll
need to install a Bluetooth dongle for this feature to work.
+ Added a shaker motor test.
+ added shaker motor option to Matrixed Switches Test to help find flaky
switches without having to pound on the playfield.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements.

How come the JJP website only has the 7.02 listed? Not a Facebook user. Where else is it available?

#12550 7 months ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

How come the JJP website only has the 7.02 listed? Not a Facebook user. Where else is it available?

Go to https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/
Click on downloads then WOZ.

I think you might have clicked on the FULL INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS as that still list the 7.02

There are 13,216 posts in this topic. You are on page 251 of 265.

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