The neoprene inside the monkey track wears without grease.

It really depends on age and how many games played.

It was lubed from the factory.

Same with the witch threaded rod.

Oops..

Nate is AWESOME, he'll take good care of you.

For those of you who have done it, how much time should I allot to upgrade to 2.0?

Is it tedious or difficult or both?

A day or two to do a good job. More time consuming than anything.

LTG : )

Do you mind putting that into hours?

I'd say a good 12 hours. To do a good job. Clean things up as you go and cable tie the new stuff.

Strip out old wiring - data and power to old boards and remove old power supply. Big boards are an even swap. Drill screw starter holes for small boards. Instructions say two, I think one each is enough. This means removing castle and spinning house playfields. A good chance to clean under them, replace rubber rings. Then mount B.A.G. and hub boards. Run power connectors, run ethernet cables. Install new power supply.

Stuff like that.

LTG : )

14 hours for me, but if I did it again, it would probably take 12. I had some delays figuring out certain bits. The instructions were good and have since been improved. It is not difficult, just time consuming. I broke it up into small chunks over separate weekends. That kept me fresh. It is very doable even for ones like me who don’t do this stuff normally. I kind of enjoyed it in the end. Is it tedious? It depends upon your personality. I started to enjoy it, and by the end had a lot of satisfaction on getting the job done.

I’ve done it twice. First time was about 18 hrs spread across two days.
Second time was one marathon session of 12-13 hrs.

I believe I could get that down further for my third.

I thought it was a fun project too. At the end there was a lot of satisfaction seeing it come to life.

With that said, would you want to do it again?

Absolutely I would. I even ran an ad offering the service for a while but had no takers.

I have a standing plan to do it for a friend in CA once we're past COVID.

I just spoke to Nate at JJP - he was very kind, open, and helpful. They do not have any 2.0 kits remaining in stock -- their latest recent shipment was allocated entirely to people already on a wait list. He did say that there will be another order, but it is not clear when this next order will arrive. He is hoping that it will arrive before end of year, but timing isn't known. He is managing a wait list, so the next order will also be first allocated to those on the wait list. Methinks that they only place orders once there is enough of a wait list to give them confidence in selling, but that's only methinksing......I didn't ask. If you want a 2.0 kit, reach out to Nate and get on the wait list!

I may take you up on this offer, if it still stands. Lol

It took me around 20 hours, the only pain point I had on the way was to take off the munchkin playfield. Other than that I had fun doing it, nothing difficult, it's like a Lego, follow the instructions, and see your work come to life.

I would do it again with pleasure.

Interesting.. Just curious. That seems like quite the job that I dont know if I would want to do myself haha. (Glad I wont have to)..

Ok I lubed my monkey rod (not a euphemism) and the damn thing is still chugging as he reaches the top, and often dropping the ball before he does.

I -completely- understand why this mech was nerfed.

The offer stands; if anyone wants to trade a YBR for an ECLE w/ 2.0 let me know.

In the interim, what's the likely problem? Motor wearing out? I did replace the 3 door motors already due to wear.

Adjust the limit switch so the monkey goes farther.

Gearbox that rides on the threaded rod, sounds like it has issues.

Glad to hear.

LTG : )

Are these prone to move out of adjustment? When I run the device test it seems like he stops at the top of the hill like he should.

Usually, no.

LTG : )

Well, I feel foolish. I lubed the monkey rod, but only the threaded rod.

I added lubricant to the smooth rod too and now the monkey is fast, smooth and reliable.
Gotta love the easy fixes.

f7cjy68h.jpg.gif.jpeg

Also, ive found that my threaded rod gets gunked up. Kind of a PITA to clean it out but its helpful when done to make the monkey fluent. So aside from adding lube, important to clean out the old stuff as well. I feel like that can get overlooked.

What lube did you use?

White lithium grease

Boooo, you didnt try the Super Lube??

If anyone is looking to make room i'm looking for a Ruby Red edition or ECLE, routed and or modded is fine.

This did wonders for the monkey mech - I originally did just the threaded rod and worked for a game or so - did the back rod as well, 6 months later it’s never been smoother.

With today's market...
What would a Ruby Red with Steve's Monkey, Crystal Ball holder, and Witch 2.0 run?

Not the 2.0 light boards, the 7.5V buffered ones. Working well though. Lior OZ mod and some other minor stuff.

Any thoughts here?

Edited to correct Steve's name.... Bourbon strikes again

I'm interested lets talk

Who is Mike? I think you mean Steve.

You are correct

I bought my RR ,nib, in 2014. I put Titan colored rubbers on all my games. The neutral color posts don’t look good I was thinking about
Going with 64 green posts I have red bubbler

Many thoughts on this?

I am assuming you meant to ask ANY thoughts..... well here’s one. Do as you like and what meets your taste. Posting a question like this on Pinside will get answers both ways (looks great....looks like skittles threw up).

meSz is right. But when you do decide to try it you will find that matching colors as closely as possible to the surrounding color will be more aesthetically pleasing than contrasting colors. With all the beautiful art on this game, the posts would be better if they weren't seen at all, if the posts stand out, they will be all that you see.

Trying to find where this fuse is on the board - is it black?

Current manual from the web site area 2 on page D-166 or area circled in red on this picture.

Typical automotive wedge fuse.

LTG : )

woz (resized).JPG

Look like these, might be different colors.

LTG : )

fuses (resized).jpg

Ahh, got it! The Einstein that I am was looking for it on the crystal ball screen board. DUH! Thank you very much olé great one!!!

At least you tried !

LTG : )

Saw this today, which got me thinking... what amount would actually get me to separate with my WOZ?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-wizard-of-oz-yellow-brick-road-le-5

The interesting conundrum is that while its not a price I would ever be willing to pay, I also don’t think I would sell mine for that if someone offered it to me.

Maybe I’m being sentimental but it feels hard to replace.... ECLE with the Govida witch, crystal ball and monkey plus castle walls and some other mods I have selectively added over the years. It was my first NIB pin and while I don’t play it regularly anymore I still enjoy a game or two occasionally... i would miss it if it were gone and while the pin itself isn’t rare by any means I doubt I could ever replace it with all the mods.

Anyway, i think to me the game is priceless and while that amount of cash on the glass would probably separate me, I don’t know if I actually ever would.

Anyone else feel like their particular WOZ is something they would never want to sell?

I bought mine nib, in 2014,RR, #43, first run. It was going for $8500, then, and was being advertised as only 1000 made.
No,I would never sell mine. It has broken on me, several times, but, I will eventually figure it out. This is my game to play for some relaxing pinball. All my other games are fast, heads-up playing.
This game has a magic and well balanced feel to it. The YBR you have linked, is insanity. He is fishing.

Just had to drop in and say this is one of my favs..really smitten with this game. Ton of pinball magic there... and just such a beautiful beautiful layout. Where im usually taken in more with the horror sci fi stuff this game is downright special. Hope they stay around for a good long time. Maybe one day... JJP nailed it sooooo gooood

Oh yeah the guy is fishing... it just made me think if there would ever be enough to motivate me to sell mine and I do think its no, not only is the game special and always enjoyable but my particular one is special to me.

Should I upgrade to lighting 2.0?

I have a late ECLE with the last generation 1.x light boards (7.5v?)

Anyway, I have never had a large board go bad on me but I do always seem to be chasing the little single general illumination boards. At this point I do have a couple more that are needing replacement and starting to wonder if its time to bite the bullet on the 2.0?

I'm really happy with 2.0.

I just don’t feel there’ll ever be another game like this. And, the theme is a perfect fit for me. Total nostalgia. Yeah, I’m with you. Probably the one pin I’ll never sell. Unless someone offers me 6 figures for it, which at this rate, may happen in a year or two.

If it is a keeper for you, you should definitely upgrade. I was chasing small boards as well. At some point, it may be difficult to get replacement boards of the older versions. So, having the more reliable boards is the way to go, especially if it is not leaving your house.

I completely agree. I don’t think I could ever part with mine either. I have done so many tedious upgrades and I’m not sure there will ever be a game that will match the attention to detail in this game. It feels like a work of art.

So I am sure I have the same game scenario as you; an ECLE with the 7.5 buffered boardset , which I am pretty sure was the last (not at home so can't check the build date) boardset before the 2.0 redo. I have had very little problems with mine , and it is always fixed by reseating a light cable.

I have completely thought about doing the 2.0 upgrade, but I keep thinking "well it is a simple fix, why redo everything". If it was on route , sure, completely makes sense.

The 7.5v buffered design "should" be just fine. The issue I am thinking is just a bad crimp on certain cables. I think my next move personally is just to make some new cables for the ones I have to reseat, and see how that holds up.

I have to agree with you all. I watch what game people gravitate to when they come over and WOZ is always a favorite. It’s beautiful, has amazing details, and a super deep rule set that always kicks my butt.

It’s a beautiful game in design and looks. I like the way that no matter where you shoot the ball you always hit something that adds to your score.

Would you mind digging up your invoice? I was an ECLE original buyer at 7500 (I know earlier folks only paid 6K) with a deposit in by September of 2011. In November of 2013 I ponied up an additional 1500 for the RR. Because the price was 9K. I have heard of others saying their RR was 8500 but I haven't seen it. It doesn't make much difference but I am trying to confirm if the RR was being sold for 8500. If so was shipping extra or was it included?