(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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#1201 3 years ago
Quoted from TxJay:

How did you order these parts from them? It doesn't show for sale on their website? Do you have to contact them direct?

Yes. I purchased 4 spots with long wires and the 2 black posts.

#1202 3 years ago

Got my game setup! I was unaware that the standards were numbered? Few questions about it!

1. Never mind! Turning the game off and on with the USB in did the update automatically.
2. When I'm in the menus, there's a slight humming that comes out of the speakers. What would cause this?
3. How do I make the State Fair Balloon more "active"?
4. Speaking of the State Fair Balloon...When the playfield is lifted, is the game supposed to rest on that? Seems strange...
5. The little metal slot coming through the apron next to the State Fair Balloon - what's the purpose of it? It seems to cause ball stick issues once in a while.
6. At the top of the playfield where the glass contacts the back of the trim, there's that black clasp running all the way across. That makes it super hard to push the glass up. Does that get easier over time? I don't want to break my glass.

Otherwise, I've not had any real issues with the game. Is the Castle Playfield supposed to have what feels like a really weak flipper? It would make sense given that you're so close to the parts and it.

#1203 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Got my game setup! I was unaware that the standards were numbered? Few questions about it!
1. Never mind! Turning the game off and on with the USB in did the update automatically.
2. When I'm in the menus, there's a slight humming that comes out of the speakers. What would cause this?
3. How do I make the State Fair Balloon more "active"?
4. Speaking of the State Fair Balloon...When the playfield is lifted, is the game supposed to rest on that? Seems strange...
5. The little metal slot coming through the apron next to the State Fair Balloon - what's the purpose of it? It seems to cause ball stick issues once in a while.
6. At the top of the playfield where the glass contacts the back of the trim, there's that black clasp running all the way across. That makes it super hard to push the glass up. Does that get easier over time? I don't want to break my glass.
Otherwise, I've not had any real issues with the game. Is the Castle Playfield supposed to have what feels like a really weak flipper? It would make sense given that you're so close to the parts and it.

Congrats!

Some answers (I don't have all -- new owner myself): you can individually control the strength to every coil. So, increase the state fair balloon a bit. I also increased the flipper on the castle play field to register more hits on the targets. As for the glass, I find that if I gently press the top of the glass down by the black clasp while I slide it in that extra half inch, it goes in without a problem. I have a hum from the speakers when the LEDs shine bright in attract mode. I'm assuming it is normal.

#1204 3 years ago

2)When all the LEDs are white, it can cause a hum in the speakers. Mine does the same thing.
3)There is a leaf switch that gets tripped when the bumper skirt is touched by the ball. The blade of the leaf switch can be adjusted to make the bumper more active.
4)You shouldn't rest the playfield on the state fair balloon. Put a pillow or use one of the foam pads that shipped with the game to keep the balloon from hitting.
5)The apron slides onto that metal plate to keep it locked down when lifting. It shouldn't stop the ball.
6)Mine did this too. Applying a little downward pressure on the top of the glass as it approaches helps. It did get smoother over time.

#1205 3 years ago
Quoted from JIM_Z:

Spots are tied into the existing spots. All parts purchased from JJP, 12 volt LEDs came with the spots.

So, is there an already existing connector that these plug into, or is it more complicated than that to set them up? I'm not sure what it means that they hook up to existing spots.

#1206 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

So, is there an already existing connector that these plug into, or is it more complicated than that to set them up? I'm not sure what it means that they hook up to existing spots.

No connector. You can make a connector or use standard electrical connectors. You will be connecting the new spot wires to the 12 volt wires for the existing spots.

#1207 3 years ago

I talked to Ken at JJP - he suggested using the unused 12v connectors by the State Fair Balloon.

#1208 3 years ago
Quoted from JIM_Z:

No connector. You can make a connector or use standard electrical connectors. You will be connecting the new spot wires to the 12 volt wires for the existing spots.

Forgive my electrical ignorance: does this mean cutting the wires and splicing two sets of wires off of it -- the ones for the existing spots and the ones for the new spots? I've never done this before.

Quoted from nicoga3000:

I talked to Ken at JJP - he suggested using the unused 12v connectors by the State Fair Balloon.

So, does that mean no cutting of wires, just plugging?

#1209 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Forgive my electrical ignorance: does this mean cutting the wires and splicing two sets of wires off of it -- the ones for the existing spots and the ones for the new spots? I've never done this before.

So, does that mean no cutting of wires, just plugging?

Not 100% sure, but here's the exact response I got:

"The lighting system in the WOZ is separate from the spotlights and runs on 7.5 volts and communicates through digital data cables so it is not a good idea to wire anything to the GIs. 

Your best bet would be to run the wires over to the unused 12 volt spotlight connector near the ballon bumper."

Going to install plastic protectors and some mods today. Lot of stuff to take apart.

Also, it was sort of amazing last night and this morning...My wife turned the game on and played some on her own. She LOVES the game, and that makes this pin priceless in my eyes.

#1210 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Not 100% sure, but here's the exact response I got:
"The lighting system in the WOZ is separate from the spotlights and runs on 7.5 volts and communicates through digital data cables so it is not a good idea to wire anything to the GIs. 
Your best bet would be to run the wires over to the unused 12 volt spotlight connector near the ballon bumper."
Going to install plastic protectors and some mods today. Lot of stuff to take apart.
Also, it was sort of amazing last night and this morning...My wife turned the game on and played some on her own. She LOVES the game, and that makes this pin priceless in my eyes.

Let me know how you like my protectors.

#1211 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Also, it was sort of amazing last night and this morning...My wife turned the game on and played some on her own. She LOVES the game, and that makes this pin priceless in my eyes.

haha, my wife never plays any of my pins either, but my daughter told me while i was at work the other day my wife actually fired up WOZ and played a few games!

#1212 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Let me know how you like my protectors.

Been working on installing them throughout the day. It's a lot of work, but it's worth it! Put the slings on before playing a single game. After having played a bunch, I decided to finish them. The ones by the castle seem like the toughest since it looks like a lot to remove to access them...

#1213 3 years ago

WOZ isn't the easiest pin to tear apart, that's for sure.

#1214 3 years ago

So last week I had my best game ever, almost 4 million (3,980,000 to be exact) and today I had another 3 million game. Needless to say, I LOVE this pin and this new update!

#1215 3 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

So last week I had my best game ever, almost 4 million (398 million to be exact) and today I had another 3 million game. Needless to say, I LOVE this pin and this new update!

Isn't that almost 400 Million then? Now THAT would be an incredible game of WOZ!!!

#1216 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

2. When I'm in the menus, there's a slight humming that comes out of the speakers. What would cause this?

See

for a suggestion on how to decrease/lessen the hum. The video is of Josh doing the fix on the game that I later bought from him. That said, I still have some humming but only when all the white lights are going (no clue how loud it was before I got the game).

#1217 3 years ago

yeah ive got some hum too, even after moving that line filter. you cant hear it, though, unless it's in attract mode and the room is quiet.

#1218 3 years ago

Thanks for the video. I'll see if there's not something I can do to help mine out.

Any tips on removing the castle playfield? Trying to install these protectors and can't figure out how to get under it.

#1219 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Not 100% sure, but here's the exact response I got:
"The lighting system in the WOZ is separate from the spotlights and runs on 7.5 volts and communicates through digital data cables so it is not a good idea to wire anything to the GIs. 
Your best bet would be to run the wires over to the unused 12 volt spotlight connector near the ballon bumper."

I'm feeling blind because I can't seem to find that unused connector. Are you going to do that? If so, I might wait and copy off of you, especially if you take some good pictures (hint, hint).

Quoted from nicoga3000:

Any tips on removing the castle playfield? Trying to install these protectors and can't figure out how to get under it.

Aren't there detailed instructions in the game manual? I seem to remember that, though I don't have the manual in front of me at the moment.

#1220 3 years ago

Yeah, just saw that in the manual. I'll attempt that once my castle walls come in.

I'm having an issue that I cannot figure out. I was installing plastic protectors. That's all. When I went to put the playfield back in place...

20160326_210633_(resized).jpg

With a bit of tugging...

20160326_210648_(resized).jpg

The left hook will NOT latch. I can't figure it out. It's like it won't come forward. Anyone have ANY idea what's up?

#1221 3 years ago

Just wiggle it around a bit. It will go in. And before anyone says anything; I'm talking about the playfield.........

#1222 3 years ago
Quoted from Pindufus:

Just wiggle it around a bit. It will go in. And before anyone says anything; I'm talking about the playfield.........

I'll keep trying. As long as I'm not going to totally ruin some assembly...Never had this problem on any of the other games I've owned. Could just be that this playfield is so much more packed that it contributes to the issue.

Another thing I just noticed - my Invisiglass is not square on the small ends. One side is CLEARLY longer than the other (by 1/4 to 1/2"). Is this worth contacting JJP or my distro about?

#1223 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

I'll keep trying. As long as I'm not going to totally ruin some assembly...Never had this problem on any of the other games I've owned. Could just be that this playfield is so much more packed that it contributes to the issue.

Just making sure, but did you remove the two pieces of packing foam at the back end of the playfield? The first time I took it out, I couldn't get it back in until I realized there was packing foam glued on back there.

#1224 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm feeling blind because I can't seem to find that unused connector. Are you going to do that? If so, I might wait and copy off of you, especially if you take some good pictures (hint, hint).

Aren't there detailed instructions in the game manual? I seem to remember that, though I don't have the manual in front of me at the moment.

I did this small video if it's of any help

#1225 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Just making sure, but did you remove the two pieces of packing foam at the back end of the playfield? The first time I took it out, I couldn't get it back in until I realized there was packing foam glued on back there.

I had to remove the packing foam too, so bizarre , but then maybe not?

#1226 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I had to remove the packing foam too, so bizarre , but then maybe not?

Thinking about it, it probably makes the whole game really secure for shipment. I just think there should have been a note about it. It would have saved me a couple of minutes of frustration trying to push the playfield back in and wondering why it wasn't going.

#1227 3 years ago

Not sure what was in the way - did a little moving and shifting and the game SEEMS to close now. It still takes a TON of effort, but at least the playfield comes down now. The lock down bar is a bitch to put on, though. Like, I have to work it HARD to get it locked. Could that be due to uneven Invisiglass?

Also, running into a weird issue. The left tree pop won't fire. In coil test, it makes a thud noise like it's trying to figure, but it can't. Anyone have any thoughts on how to diagnose and fix it?

#1228 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Not sure what was in the way - did a little moving and shifting and the game SEEMS to close now. It still takes a TON of effort, but at least the playfield comes down now. The lock down bar is a bitch to put on, though. Like, I have to work it HARD to get it locked. Could that be due to uneven Invisiglass?
Also, running into a weird issue. The left tree pop won't fire. In coil test, it makes a thud noise like it's trying to figure, but it can't. Anyone have any thoughts on how to diagnose and fix it?

It sounds like the coil is firing but the linkage is too tight or binding. You might try to loosen the linkage a bit. Also make sure the coil stop is secure. It has Allen type screws. Press on the ones that DO work as you observe under the playfield and you should see a difference in the pop that doesn't work.

#1229 3 years ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

It sounds like the coil is firing but the linkage is too tight or binding. You might try to loosen the linkage a bit. Also make sure the coil stop is secure. It has Allen type screws. Press on the ones that DO work as you observe under the playfield and you should see a difference in the pop that doesn't work.

Cheers. I'll look into this in a bit.

Also, the ball that the flying monkey traps...When the ball comes off the monkey, it shifts to the right a hair and looks like it's about to fall off. It's that normal or is it off a bit?

Oh and is there a setting to have the game release all locked balls at the end of a game?

#1230 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Cheers. I'll look into this in a bit.
Also, the ball that the flying monkey traps...When the ball comes off the monkey, it shifts to the right a hair and looks like it's about to fall off. It's that normal or is it off a bit?
Oh and is there a setting to have the game release all locked balls at the end of a game?

There is a setting to release all balls.

#1231 3 years ago

Regarding the invisiglass I find it hard to believe it isn't square. Use a square and measuring tape and check it.

If it looks shorter on one side just when installed in your machine, then the machine probably isn't leveled properly and is skewed.

Big wide bodies can skew more then regular machines and that would lead to the trouble putting a playfield in too.

While you are checking out your new game, check the wires on the light board next to the left flipper. Make sure the wires are far enough away when the flipper is pulled in (manually move the flipper assembly). The flipper caught the wire on my light board and broke it at the connector. That was a pain to get out and solder the wire back on. I added some extra electric tape around the tiny wires to protect them if they ever get to close again

Greg

#1232 3 years ago

I have a couple more questions:

1. How easy is it for you to collect on the HOADC shot? I keep thinking I hit it, but the ball keeps bouncing back without going in. I didn't expect to have such a hard time. I own a Star Trek Pro which has a similar under the upper flipper shot, and I can hit it relatively consistently. Looking at that shot and comparing it to WoZ, the two shots are different in the sense that in WoZ, the ball hits the wire ball guide at nearly a 90 degree angle, whereas in Star Trek, the angle of the area where the ball hits is much different, seemingly making it more conducive to falling back into the shooter lane. Anyway, do others have a hard time with this shot, and are there any tips?

2. My ruby slipper on the right flipper broke in half and fell off again. I put in a ticket request yesterday, and Lloyd responded today saying he would forward it to parts to take care of. Kudos for the great customer service! I never expected a response on a Sunday. Now that I have to take the flipper bat out, I'm thinking of putting super bands on. I don't have them on my other games, but I'm having a really difficult time getting the ball under control on WoZ. The flipper angle is a bit more shallow, I think. What is the consensus of super bands with this game? Also, what colors do you think would look good?

#1233 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I have a couple more questions:
1. How easy is it for you to collect on the HOADC shot? I keep thinking I hit it, but the ball keeps bouncing back without going in. I didn't expect to have such a hard time. I own a Star Trek Pro which has a similar under the upper flipper shot, and I can hit it relatively consistently. Looking at that shot and comparing it to WoZ, the two shots are different in the sense that in WoZ, the ball hits the wire ball guide at nearly a 90 degree angle, whereas in Star Trek, the angle of the area where the ball hits is much different, seemingly making it more conducive to falling back into the shooter lane. Anyway, do others have a hard time with this shot, and are there any tips?
2. My ruby slipper on the right flipper broke in half and fell off again. I put in a ticket request yesterday, and Lloyd responded today saying he would forward it to parts to take care of. Kudos for the great customer service! I never expected a response on a Sunday. Now that I have to take the flipper bat out, I'm thinking of putting super bands on. I don't have them on my other games, but I'm having a really difficult time getting the ball under control on WoZ. The flipper angle is a bit more shallow, I think. What is the consensus of super bands with this game? Also, what colors do you think would look good?

2. Try pinball life's new rubber for the flippers, the super bands are too stiff for Woz in my opinion, the flippers are already strong enough without having the extra spring from tough rubber

#1234 3 years ago

OK! Update on my pops, glass, and playfield!

First, thank you SilverballNutt for commenting on widebody vs standard. I did some checking and was off level by about 0.3 degrees. I leveled everything again and got it perfect AND got my 6.5 slope I wanted (I was at 6.3 before). As a result of this, the glass DID sit perfectly flush. I guess that minor difference made a huge difference in the glass AND the playfield (which now sits a lot easier).

This did NOT solve my issue with the lockdown bar, though. It's still hard as hell to latch. It's almost like the hooks on the lockdown aren't far enough down to catch the notch on the hinge. Still unsure how to make this any easier.

Now as for the pops...

I was able to get a video of it in action.

I lifted up the playfield and felt and tinkered with all 3 pop assemblies. I tested the pops with the playfield on the rails and everything was great. I set the playfield in thinking everything was good, but it did the knock again. So I took a video to show what's going on. It's almost like something is interfering, but I can't figure out what. At the end of the video, everything became fine because I apparently put the playfield in JUUUST the right way to make it work. What on EARTH could be causing this? I have tried to get a good look at the pop assembly with the game in the cabinet, but that proved to be impossible with my current setup. I may try setting my phone in the cabinet with the camera running to see if I see it catch on something. But that seems like a terrible design decision if that indeed is the issue.

I noticed another issue in re-watching that video...The witch makes an audible whine when she starts her down motion. I ran the tests over and over again - it happens every single time. Do I need to make some adjustment with the motor itself? Or is that a part issue?

Thanks again for all the help guys. No matter how many games you play, fix, or own there's always going to be more little kinks to work with. Part of the fun I guess! I did adjust the lock release with 1/2/3 balls to help with unintentional extra balls in play. But I am impressed that the game knows what's up. I had two balls in play with lock lit...Shot the right ramp to lock a ball, but the game didn't give me the lock. I had to hit the shot with the second ball (thus reducing me back to the intended one ball play) to register it. At least I think that's how it went down. However it worked, I felt like the game took care of the issue correctly and didn't provide me with any real advantage. Somewhat random, when this happens, do you play both balls, or do you intentionally drain one?

Oh, and I will say that this game is growing to be my favorite pin ever. X-Men LE still holds my number 1 spot, but I think WOZ has overtaken LOTR. The stacking possibilities are crazy. My best game is a measly 340k, but it felt super great. Not sure how I did it, but when Lights On is going with a multiball...Wow! Lights going crazy, shaker is pumping, callouts everywhere...Such a great time!

#1235 3 years ago

The WOZ lock down was stiff for me as well. Try grabbing the handle and push towards the ceiling as you push to the right - this helps a bit. I ended up taking the lock mechanism apart and readjusting but it still is tight.

#1236 3 years ago

To lock the lockdown bar, take your forearm and push down on the center of the bar while sliding the latch to the right. It's snug but it also doesn't wiggle at all.

#1237 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinchroma:

To lock the lockdown bar, take your forearm and push down on the center of the bar while sliding the latch to the right. It's snug but it also doesn't wiggle at all.

My lockdown bar has always been a little difficult to secure. I've found that simply and lightly wiggling the lever that it locks it place easily.

#1238 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Thinking about it, it probably makes the whole game really secure for shipment. I just think there should have been a note about it. It would have saved me a couple of minutes of frustration trying to push the playfield back in and wondering why it wasn't going.

There was a note in mine that clearly stated to remove the packing foam before operating the game

#1239 3 years ago

Since there have been a series of questions related to initial setup of the game and the recent comment about the witch making an audible whine when moving up/down... this reminded me of the following. I recommend at least reading the first post.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-check-list

For your witch sound I'd highlight these two bullets:
• Make sure witch clears on lowering/raising, hat rubs clear cover in the back.
• Check witch drive screw to make sure it doesn't hit opto when witch goes down.

#1240 3 years ago

Anyone else get their game with chips in the invisiglass where the lockdown bar lugs go through? They really don't affect anything other than once in a while they will sluff off a splinter....I'm guessing from the glass rubbing on those lugs during play. May have to get a diamond polisher and smooth the edge back out.

#1241 3 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

There was a note in mine that clearly stated to remove the packing foam before operating the game

mine too

#1242 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

OK! Update on my pops, glass, and playfield!
First, thank you SilverballNutt for commenting on widebody vs standard. I did some checking and was off level by about 0.3 degrees. I leveled everything again and got it perfect AND got my 6.5 slope I wanted (I was at 6.3 before). As a result of this, the glass DID sit perfectly flush. I guess that minor difference made a huge difference in the glass AND the playfield (which now sits a lot easier).
This did NOT solve my issue with the lockdown bar, though. It's still hard as hell to latch. It's almost like the hooks on the lockdown aren't far enough down to catch the notch on the hinge. Still unsure how to make this any easier.
Now as for the pops...
I was able to get a video of it in action.
» YouTube video
I lifted up the playfield and felt and tinkered with all 3 pop assemblies. I tested the pops with the playfield on the rails and everything was great. I set the playfield in thinking everything was good, but it did the knock again. So I took a video to show what's going on. It's almost like something is interfering, but I can't figure out what. At the end of the video, everything became fine because I apparently put the playfield in JUUUST the right way to make it work. What on EARTH could be causing this? I have tried to get a good look at the pop assembly with the game in the cabinet, but that proved to be impossible with my current setup. I may try setting my phone in the cabinet with the camera running to see if I see it catch on something. But that seems like a terrible design decision if that indeed is the issue.
I noticed another issue in re-watching that video...The witch makes an audible whine when she starts her down motion. I ran the tests over and over again - it happens every single time. Do I need to make some adjustment with the motor itself? Or is that a part issue?
Thanks again for all the help guys. No matter how many games you play, fix, or own there's always going to be more little kinks to work with. Part of the fun I guess! I did adjust the lock release with 1/2/3 balls to help with unintentional extra balls in play. But I am impressed that the game knows what's up. I had two balls in play with lock lit...Shot the right ramp to lock a ball, but the game didn't give me the lock. I had to hit the shot with the second ball (thus reducing me back to the intended one ball play) to register it. At least I think that's how it went down. However it worked, I felt like the game took care of the issue correctly and didn't provide me with any real advantage. Somewhat random, when this happens, do you play both balls, or do you intentionally drain one?
Oh, and I will say that this game is growing to be my favorite pin ever. X-Men LE still holds my number 1 spot, but I think WOZ has overtaken LOTR. The stacking possibilities are crazy. My best game is a measly 340k, but it felt super great. Not sure how I did it, but when Lights On is going with a multiball...Wow! Lights going crazy, shaker is pumping, callouts everywhere...Such a great time!

Re: the lockdown bar, see those two brass screws on the lockdown receiver (the metal bracket the lockdown bar feeds into)? Screw them in a little bit. You want to get them just right so the lockdown bar isn't too tight or loose.

http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=5800&picno=63748&zoom=1

#1243 3 years ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

Since there have been a series of questions related to initial setup of the game and the recent comment about the witch making an audible whine when moving up/down... this reminded me of the following. I recommend at least reading the first post.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-check-list
For your witch sound I'd highlight these two bullets:
• Make sure witch clears on lowering/raising, hat rubs clear cover in the back.
• Check witch drive screw to make sure it doesn't hit opto when witch goes down.

I'll be going through this list today, thanks. I wasn't going to install or order the VUK Cliffy's, but I'm wondering if I should now?

I imagine I'll have some questions on how to make some of these adjustments, but I'll go through the entire list before I ask about them. Maybe one of these adjustments will magically fix my pop bumper issue...

Quoted from metahugh:

Re: the lockdown bar, see those two brass screws on the lockdown receiver (the metal bracket the lockdown bar feeds into)? Screw them in a little bit. You want to get them just right so the lockdown bar isn't too tight or loose.
http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=5800&picno=63748&zoom=1

I had no idea what those brass screws were for. I'll adjust them a bit to get it figured out, thanks!

#1244 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinchroma:

To lock the lockdown bar, take your forearm and push down on the center of the bar while sliding the latch to the right. It's snug but it also doesn't wiggle at all.

This. I adjusted mine as well to no avail. but some gentle pressure in the middle while sliding the latch does the trick for me.

#1245 3 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

There was a note in mine that clearly stated to remove the packing foam before operating the game

I'm sure this was my bad and that there was a note like that. I don't recall it specifically pointing to the foam in the back of the playfield, but I may have missed it. It was not visible from the game. Anyway, all is well.

#1246 3 years ago

Thanks, Chosen_S about the advice on super bands.

Can I bump up this question:

Quoted from Nokoro:

1. How easy is it for you to collect on the HOADC shot? I keep thinking I hit it, but the ball keeps bouncing back without going in. I didn't expect to have such a hard time. I own a Star Trek Pro which has a similar under the upper flipper shot, and I can hit it relatively consistently. Looking at that shot and comparing it to WoZ, the two shots are different in the sense that in WoZ, the ball hits the wire ball guide at nearly a 90 degree angle, whereas in Star Trek, the angle of the area where the ball hits is much different, seemingly making it more conducive to falling back into the shooter lane. Anyway, do others have a hard time with this shot, and are there any tips?

I'm really curious as to others experiences with this shot. Thanks!

#1247 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Thanks, Chosen_S about the advice on super bands.
Can I bump up this question:

I'm really curious as to others experiences with this shot. Thanks!

Very difficult shot. I have more luck backhanding it from the right flipper.

#1248 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Thanks, Chosen_S about the advice on super bands.
Can I bump up this question:

I'm really curious as to others experiences with this shot. Thanks!

Either I've become a better player, or my game is just setup different. I had the hardest time with the Away Team shot on Star Trek, but the HOADC shot on my WOZ is nothing compared to that. I do use superbands, so that COULD have something to do with it? I make it almost every time I aim for it.

#1249 3 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

Very difficult shot. I have more luck backhanding it from the right flipper.

Well, I'm glad its not just me. I've backhanded it with two balls on the right flipper, never with just one. Is that what you mean? During multiball?

Quoted from nicoga3000:

Either I've become a better player, or my game is just setup different. I had the hardest time with the Away Team shot on Star Trek, but the HOADC shot on my WOZ is nothing compared to that. I do use superbands, so that COULD have something to do with it? I make it almost every time I aim for it.

That's really strange because I could never understand why people complained about the Away Team shot. It was challenging, but I made it a good percentage of the time. The HOADC shot is like 1 in 10 for me. I just lowered the flipper coil power a bit, so maybe that will help. How do you like the superbands on WOZ?

#1250 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Well, I'm glad its not just me. I've backhanded it with two balls on the right flipper, never with just one. Is that what you mean? During multiball?

It is much easier with two balls on the right flipper, but you can do it with just one. If you attempt a post pass the ball usually stays on the flipper and you can back hand it as it rattles around. Still a low percentage and dangerous shot but satisfying to hit.

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