(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

8 years ago


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12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 14,007 posts in this topic. You are on page 247 of 281.
#12301 1 year ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

I'll give it a shot, can't hurt. In the meantime, open to any other ideas or experiences... I'll report back later and see if this made any type of difference, thank you.

There is a PCB located on the bottom of the main playfield under the witche’s castle. Check those connectors.

#12302 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

There is a PCB located on the bottom of the main playfield under the witche’s castle. Check those connectors.

Will do next.

In the meantime, wrapped both the skill shot and monkey target near the edge. Started a game. The game never kicked out a ball but immediately started registering Rescue shots and the house would start spinning intermittently. No ball ever on play field. Tried the flippers while this was occurring, only had left flipper one time, right was dead and then no flippers at all while the game continued to think a ball was on the castle play field.

Going to check PCB connectors now...

#12303 1 year ago

I am not seeing anything unplugged and reseated a bunch of connectors. I booted up and went to switch test. A bunch of switches keep activating every few seconds along with various coils randomly firing. Here is what my switch matrix alternates between every 5 seconds or so. And sometimes it changes, as before I took these photos, it was registering 69, 70, and 71 which are 3 of the rescue targets. Any ideas??

20210328_111731.jpg20210328_111750.jpg20210328_111820.jpg20210328_111822.jpg
#12304 1 year ago

When mine acted this way, I had fried a chip on my I/O board. Perhaps visually inspect the board for anything that looks amiss.

#12305 1 year ago

And here is a quick video of what its doing in test mode. I am touching nothing in this video...

#12306 1 year ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

And here is a quick video of what its doing in test mode. I am touching nothing in this video...

Man, talking about a machine possessed...
Seems to me that there was some metal to metal contact on the playfield somewhere (hopefully already addressed with the areas you wrapped up) that may have damaged the I/O board. Besides a visual inspection for damage as Nokoro suggested I'm sorry to say I don't know how to diagnose it further, but there are many smarter pinsiders than me that might, or maybe give JJP a call. Good luck for a speedy repair!

#12307 1 year ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

And here is a quick video of what its doing in test mode. I am touching nothing in this video...

Based on what you have posted, it appears that a wire is shorting or a connector is loose. If you are familiar with electrical schematics, I would look at them in the manual and see if all of the switches and motors that are activating are located in the same wiring harness. If they are, you will need to locate the harness and inspect it from end to end checking all of the connectors. In my WOZ, the wiring harnesses are VERY tightly tied together and I could very well see one of the connectors or wires becoming loose and causing you the issues you have.

Or, it is a fired board like others have mentioned. Good luck! Hopefully LTG can help when he sees these additional posts.

I would also reach out to JJP. They can be helpful with troubleshooting these types of issues.

#12308 1 year ago

Thanks for the replies so far. I was going to call or email JJP tomorrow regarding this and I've scanned over the IO board and not seeing anything obvious.

As for the loose connectors or short, its possible and I've gone over every harness but not finding anything yet. The strange thing is I can't seem to isolate a consistent issue. Sometimes one target or pop will initiate crazy behavior and later it will be a different one. The flippers work when it is not "possessed" and then they stop working when it decides to flip out. I'm guessing it is activating a tilt as part of its craziness but not calling or showing tilt.

There is no consistent pattern that I can find other than suddenly everything (switches, flippers, coils) will go dead and then it freaks out for a bit.

I'm hoping LTG has seen this before and can shed some light on the situation. In the meantime, I have a call into a buddy of mine who does some pinball tech, maybe I can pay him to figure it out...

#12309 1 year ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

I'm hoping LTG has seen this before

Sorry I haven't. Check with Barry tomorrow.

LTG : )

#12310 1 year ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

Thanks for the replies so far. I was going to call or email JJP tomorrow regarding this and I've scanned over the IO board and not seeing anything obvious.
As for the loose connectors or short, its possible and I've gone over every harness but not finding anything yet. The strange thing is I can't seem to isolate a consistent issue. Sometimes one target or pop will initiate crazy behavior and later it will be a different one. The flippers work when it is not "possessed" and then they stop working when it decides to flip out. I'm guessing it is activating a tilt as part of its craziness but not calling or showing tilt.
There is no consistent pattern that I can find other than suddenly everything (switches, flippers, coils) will go dead and then it freaks out for a bit.
I'm hoping LTG has seen this before and can shed some light on the situation. In the meantime, I have a call into a buddy of mine who does some pinball tech, maybe I can pay him to future it out...

If you pull the playfield out and rest it on the service rails, does it still happen? Just trying to look for obvious places where there might be a short to ground.

#12311 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

If you pull the playfield out and rest it on the service rails, does it still happen? Just trying to look for obvious places where there might be a short to ground.

Yes..

#12312 1 year ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

I am not seeing anything unplugged and reseated a bunch of connectors. I booted up and went to switch test. A bunch of switches keep activating every few seconds along with various coils randomly firing. Here is what my switch matrix alternates between every 5 seconds or so. And sometimes it changes, as before I took these photos, it was registering 69, 70, and 71 which are 3 of the rescue targets. Any ideas??[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I emailed you with what to look for.

#12313 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

I emailed you with what to look for.

I got it Barry, thank you! I will try and get to it this week after work as my schedule allows. I don't have faith in my ability to find it if it isn't obvious, but luckily I know people smarter than me and will call on them if I have to.

#12314 1 year ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

I got it Barry, thank you! I will try and get to it this week after work as my schedule allows. I don't have faith in my ability to find it if it isn't obvious, but luckily I know people smarter than me and will call on them if In have to.

Make sure you let us know what it was when you figure it out.

#12315 1 year ago

Hoping to get some help here. My game has suddenly started registering hits at the Castle door without a ball being present on the upper playfield.. I went into switch test mode and cannot duplicate by hitting the playfield or shaking the machine. Seems to happen in conjunction with the right flipper being pressed and the shaker motor activating. I've attached a short video showing the issue.

Appreciate any input on how to diagnose and repair the problem.

#12316 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Make sure you let us know what it was when you figure it out.

Will do, he believes it is a power or ground short to the opto interface board. Going to be a hunt through the machine to find it but I'll see what I can do. I'll document the issue once it is found.

#12317 1 year ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Didn't break my stock mount...</blockquote

Hoping to get some help here. My game has suddenly started registering hits at the Castle door without a ball being present on the upper playfield.. I went into switch test mode and cannot duplicate by hitting the playfield or shaking the machine. Seems to happen in conjunction with the right flipper being pressed and the shaker motor activating. I've attached a short video showing the issue.
Appreciate any input on how to diagnose and repair the problem.

My guess is that one of the bash switches is activating due to vibration and may need to be re-gapped. You may be able to confirm this and determine which one (though you'll have to pull the mini PF assembly either way) by going into switch test mode and activating the flipper will smacking the mini-PF a little to simulate additional vibration from the shaker.

#12318 1 year ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Let me look, I might have a spare.

JJP only has the yellow bat version, bummer :/

Any luck TaylorVA ? Left flipper is the one that i need.

#12319 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

My guess is that one of the bash switches is activating due to vibration and may need to be re-gapped. You may be able to confirm this and determine which one (though you'll have to pull the mini PF assembly either way) by going into switch test mode and activating the flipper will smacking the mini-PF a little to simulate additional vibration from the shaker.

It only activates when I hit the right flipper in test mode. If I hit the left slipper nothing happens. Its the castle door bash right going off. What does that target look like? Could the upper playfield flipper be physically interacting with it to set it off?

#12320 1 year ago

Hey brains trust! I have a weird issue where my lights seem to flicker during gameplay including GI Spots and the Topper which TBH are much more noticable that the controlled RGBs.

Any hints on where I should be looking or typical weak spots in the cables?

I do have a single GI board which goes pink next to the left lower flipper, could this be causing it?

#12321 1 year ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

I do have a single GI board which goes pink next to the left lower flipper, could this be causing it?

Check if any of the small boards are actually touching a flipper base plate.

LTG : )

#12322 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check if any of the small boards are actually touching a flipper base plate.
LTG : )

It was, then it seemed like it was going pink if it was fully screwed in, I’ve since added a rubber to prop it from the playfield and it is now intermittently showing pink instead of white..

I double checked the flickering lights and it’s all the “flashers” which are on the coil circuit which intermittently flicker. It’s hard to test them as the test mode only treats them as flashers

#12323 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

It only activates when I hit the right flipper in test mode. If I hit the left slipper nothing happens. Its the castle door bash right going off. What does that target look like? Could the upper playfield flipper be physically interacting with it to set it off?

The right (and left) bash switches are activated by the door mechanism triggering the microswitch under the mini-playfield. Refer to section E.1 of the manual on how to remove the castle mini-playfield, once you have it out you'll see how to adjust the switches. The problem also may be that the door shaft set screws have come loose and allowed the door to shift backwards too far. A search of this thread should provide some more details on this as well.

1 week later
#12324 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The right (and left) bash switches are activated by the door mechanism triggering the microswitch under the mini-playfield. Refer to section E.1 of the manual on how to remove the castle mini-playfield, once you have it out you'll see how to adjust the switches. The problem also may be that the door shaft set screws have come loose and allowed the door to shift backwards too far. A search of this thread should provide some more details on this as well.

bobukcat
LTG

I have my playfield removed and could use a little pointers on what to adjust and check. I know its the right door from test mode and recently during the game it didn't close completely.

What am I looking to adjust here?

20210411_115759 (resized).jpg
#12325 1 year ago

The arm of the micro mini switch the arrow points too. The flat line is along where the arm would be.

LTG : )

wozdoor (resized).jpg
#12326 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

The arm of the micro mini switch the arrow points too. The flat line is along where the arm would be.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

I see it now

#12327 1 year ago

The microswitch for the right door was itself loose. I tightened the Phillip head screws and it doesn't appear to be moving around anymore. Is it possible to really test my "fix" without completely reinstalling the playfield?

What else should I be looking at before I attempt to put it back in?

#12328 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Is it possible to really test my "fix" without completely reinstalling the playfield?

Set the castle playfield in place. One screw to hold it. Hook up switch wire connector. Tests - Switches - Matrixed.

If all good. Then finish install.

Quoted from paulbaptise:

What else should I be looking at before I attempt to put it back in?

Clean the playfield under it, black electrician tape over steel lane guides ( on top,, sides a tiny bit so balls don't hit it ) to lessen the chance of motor leads shorting to the tops.

LTG : )

#12329 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

black electrician tape over steel lane guides ( on top,, sides a tiny bit so balls don't hit it ) to lessen the chance of motor leads shorting to the tops.
LTG : )

By any chance, did you take a picture when you did this? I would love to see exactly where the tape goes so I can put some in next time I have that playfield off.

#12330 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

By any chance, did you take a picture when you did this?

Sorry, no.

Might be easier to put across the bottoms of the motors, covering the solder points.

LTG : )

#12331 1 year ago

The refurb ones should be ok.
You cant beat the $45 prices.

There's a new open box one on eBay for $55

I would definitely get the eBay one while you can.

Can someone post the mainboard from a black arrow hobbit?

They are compatible.

Meanwhile there are plenty used mainboards out there or new for a high price:

https://dctechsol.com/shop/

JJP lists the populated IT Hardware mainboards for $199 but claim to be out of stock.

I would call and verify this, its also a good price

#12332 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Set the castle playfield in place. One screw to hold it. Hook up switch wire connector. Tests - Switches - Matrixed.
If all good. Then finish install.

Clean the playfield under it, black electrician tape over steel lane guides ( on top,, sides a tiny bit so balls don't hit it ) to lessen the chance of motor leads shorting to the tops.
LTG : )

I'd go ahead and test the doors opening and closing too before bolting everything back down tight. There's a dedicated test for them under Tests-Device Tests-Castle Doors.

#12333 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I'd go ahead and test the doors opening and closing too before bolting everything back down tight. There's a dedicated test for them under Tests-Device Tests-Castle Doors.

I got everything put back together last night and so far so good. I'm glad I didn't have to get more involved than I did to make this work correctly again. Appreciate both bobukcat and LTG help with everything.

#12334 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I'd go ahead and test the doors opening and closing too before bolting everything back down tight. There's a dedicated test for them under Tests-Device Tests-Castle Doors.

I set mine on a box under the raised playfield, plugged it all in and examined it throughly.

It was very informative early on.

#12335 1 year ago

Does anyone know if wifi/Bluetooth integration are coming to WOZ at some stage?

#12336 1 year ago
Quoted from dluth:

Does anyone know if wifi/Bluetooth integration are coming to WOZ at some stage?

Yes - They plan to integrate BT and WiFi to all of the games they've produced. So far, only Wonka and GNR have been updated.

#12337 1 year ago

Just got this thing of beauty in the mail and installed. Absolutely incredible! Easy install and makes a huge difference. Totally worth the money imo!

20210413_175740 (resized).jpg
#12338 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Just got this thing of beauty in the mail and installed. Absolutely incredible! Easy install and makes a huge difference. Totally worth the money imo!
[quoted image]

Are you talking about the lit words on the ramp? If so where did you get it from? Thanks

#12339 1 year ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Are you talking about the lit words on the ramp? If so where did you get it from? Thanks

Pinball mod company. There is an announcement post here on as well.

Added 16 months ago:

https://pinballmods.co/ramp-sign-mod-wizard-oz

#12340 1 year ago

Hey WoZ heads - I am seeking to buy a Woz ECLE, Ruby Red, or Yellow Brick Road. If anyone is thinking of selling, hit me up via PM. I live in the Chicago area but would be willing to drive a little or discuss shipping.

I am a 1-pin home (due to space constraints) and don't have anything to trade except for, you guessed it, my 1-pin (+ cash of course). It is a good players JD that has some upgrades. After 3 years with it, it's time to switch up into something nicer! In the meantime, I'll just remain jealous of all of you.

#12341 1 year ago

Hi. the letters RAINBOW does not light up, where and what should I check first. This does not have 2.0 lighting. Thank you.

#12342 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Just got this thing of beauty in the mail and installed. Absolutely incredible! Easy install and makes a huge difference. Totally worth the money imo!
[quoted image]

Where did you buy this? Thanks

#12343 1 year ago
Quoted from pbjksb:

Hi. the letters RAINBOW does not light up, where and what should I check first. This does not have 2.0 lighting. Thank you.

Reseat all connectors to that board. Check the manual for what boards are downstream of it. Do they light up?

#12344 1 year ago
Quoted from pbjksb:

Hi. the letters RAINBOW does not light up, where and what should I check first. This does not have 2.0 lighting. Thank you.

Page C-54 in the on line manual. W10 Rainbow is the last in the line. If W3 is lit, W10 is the problem.

They are wired in a straight line. Even if it don't look like it. Starting at W6, to #29, to #1, etc. etc. Last working one, next one after it that is out is the problem.

LTG : )

#12346 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Page C-54 in the on line manual. W10 Rainbow is the last in the line. If W3 is lit, W10 is the problem.
They are wired in a straight line. Even if it don't look like it. Starting at W6, to #29, to #1, etc. etc. Last working one, next one after it that is out is the problem.
LTG : )

Thank you. Sorry, can you please elaborate? Little bit confusing to me. How can I access online manual? Thank you.

#12347 1 year ago
Quoted from pbjksb:

Thank you. Sorry, can you please elaborate? Little bit confusing to me. How can I access online manual? Thank you.

https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/woz/Wizard_of_Oz_Manual_3_5_Dec_2016.pdf

#12348 1 year ago
Quoted from pbjksb:

How can I access online manual?

bobukcat posted the direct link. ( thank you ! )

You can find stuff at jerseyjackpinball.com - under Support - under Downloads - under the name of the game you seek.

LTG : )

#12349 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Just got this thing of beauty in the mail and installed. Absolutely incredible! Easy install and makes a huge difference. Totally worth the money imo!
[quoted image]

“Makes a huge difference...”

Not sure what you mean. A huge difference?

#12350 1 year ago

Have a 75th Ruby Red edition of Woz with some lighting issues. I tried adjusting connections under the playfield while in GI test mode to see if I could get the flickering to stop but was unsuccessful. Any additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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