Quoted from Darkfader:How do you remove the stainless steel guards that are behind the Optos so I can reflow the solder connections?
Take the ramp off and unbolt them.
LTG : )
Quoted from Darkfader:How do you remove the stainless steel guards that are behind the Optos so I can reflow the solder connections?
Take the ramp off and unbolt them.
LTG : )
Question:
I want to change the battery on the motherboard of my ECLE.
Change while the machine is running, because of the BIOS settings?
Quoted from waynetrane:Change while the machine is running, because of the BIOS settings?
Yes please. Game turned on.
LTG : )
Quoted from waynetrane:Question:
I want to change the battery on the motherboard of my ECLE.
Change while the machine is running, because of the BIOS settings?
Watch out for the fan next to the battery. It draws blood.
Anyone have a set of 7.5 boards they want to sell? Or at least the rainbow and witch castle boards? Thanks!
Quoted from rrosenhouse:Can someone tell me where this cable connects?
Check the pinouts for the motherboard in the manual.
LTG : )
Can someone tell me if there is a way to level to castle playfield left to right? Mine is over one degree slanted. Thanks!
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:Can someone tell me if there is a way to level to castle playfield left to right? Mine is over one degree slanted. Thanks!
It sits on posts doesn’t it? Could you put a washer on one of the posts before you screw it back down? I haven’t tried this so just a thought.
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:Can someone tell me if there is a way to level to castle playfield left to right? Mine is over one degree slanted. Thanks!
Are you still able to cradle a ball? The pf might not be perfectly level by design.
If you change the pf angle, you may lose the rebound effect. If you can cradle the ball as it is now, it's probably ok. If the ball rolls toward the tip preventing the ability to cradle, then yeah, the angle would need an adjustment.
I was able to drastically increase the playability of the castle playfield by moving the left post at the exit to the right hole (closer to the flipper.)
After doing this, the ball had a significantly greater tendency to bounce back toward the flipper keeping it in play.
It requires a focused effort to drop the flipper waiting for the rebound, and then immediately cradle before the next shot.
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:Can someone tell me if there is a way to level to castle playfield left to right? Mine is over one degree slanted. Thanks!
Quoted from Nokoro:It sits on posts doesn’t it? Could you put a washer on one of the posts before you screw it back down? I haven’t tried this so just a thought.
Correct it sits on 4 post. Before adding washers or adding anything I would check that the four post are all screwed down firmly into the main playfield. It might be a matter of where one or two of the post aren't screwed down thus the pf is off. Once this is confirmed then make certain that the playfield is sitting on all four post.
In theory, the 4 post are the same length so if they're screwed into the main pf correctly and then the castle pf is sitting on all 4 the castle pf would be level to the main pf!
Quoted from HIPPY:I bought my RR, new, in 2014, first run. Everything I have been through, I have never seen this. At start up, will not progress from there. Lloyd@ LTG, or, anybody else have a clue? Thanks.
[quoted image]
That looks like the cmos (coin) battery on the motherboard is dead and needs to be replaced.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:That looks like the cmos (coin) battery on the motherboard is dead and needs to be replaced.
Thanks for the reply. Just so I can understand the screen, what tells you that?
Quoted from HIPPY:Thanks for the reply. Just so I can understand the screen, what tells you that?
“All settings were reset to default values...
Cmos battery allows the bios settings to stay saved while the PC is off. I’ve seen it plenty of times with computers and arcade machines.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:“All settings were reset to default values...
Cmos battery allows the bios settings to stay saved while the PC is off. I’ve seen it plenty of times with computers and arcade machines.
Thank you.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:“All settings were reset to default values...
Cmos battery allows the bios settings to stay saved while the PC is off. I’ve seen it plenty of times with computers and arcade machines.
I think best bet is to replace the battery. Then if it stll gets the message, I believe you’ll have to plug in a keyboard and hit F2 to continue to continue boot.
For now, if you have a usb keyboard, you should be able to plug it into the PC and then it hit F2 when the message comes up. Turn off the pinball machine first. Plug in keyboard, turn on pin. Hit F2 on keyboard when message is displayed. It should boot into game. But, expect the message to come back each time you turn on the pin until battery is replaced.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:I think best bet is to replace the battery. Then if it stll gets the message, I believe you’ll have to plug in a keyboard and hit F2 to continue to continue boot.
For now, if you have a usb keyboard, you should be able to plug it into the PC and then it hit F2 when the message comes up. Turn off the pinball machine first. Plug in keyboard, turn on pin. Hit F2 on keyboard when message is displayed. It should boot into game. But, expect the message to come back each time you turn on the pin until battery is replaced.
I went to a local store and got CR2032 batteries, changed it, and it sprung to life, no problems other than a switch opto bugging me, again. Thank you very much.
Just acquired a WOZ standard with 7.5v 1.1 light boards. Half of my lights on the W1 board work(stops at number 2 and everything in the string behind it is dark) ). Would this potentially be a cable problem or board circuitry. Looking for a place to start troubleshooting
Thanks in advance, Chris
Quoted from Charger68:Just acquired a WOZ standard with 7.5v 1.1 light boards. Half of my lights on the W1 board work(stops at number 2 and everything in the string behind it is dark) ). Would this potentially be a cable problem or board circuitry. Looking for a place to start troubleshooting
Thanks in advance, Chris
Probably the board, a 2.0 light board system was released to correct the issue.
Quoted from zaphX:Probably the board, a 2.0 light board system was released to correct the issue.
Im on the wait list
Having some strange symptoms I haven't been able to chase down yet.
During gameplay the RESCUE will pop up randomly ever though I'm not on that upper playfield. It has happened even with the Winkie guard up. Its happened at the exact time I pressed the right flipper, but unsure if thats just a coincidence. It does not stay active but pops up and then dissapears again.
Any guidance on what to check first? My monkey did not release the ball prior to this happening last game, but again I'm not sure if that is related.
What would make it activate?
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Having some strange symptoms I haven't been able to chase down yet.
During gameplay the RESCUE will pop up randomly ever though I'm not on that upper playfield. It has happened even with the Winkie guard up. Its happened at the exact time I pressed the right flipper, but unsure if thats just a coincidence. It does not stay active but pops up and then dissapears again.
Any guidance on what to check first? My monkey did not release the ball prior to this happening last game, but again I'm not sure if that is related.
What would make it activate?
Likely one of the switches on the castle playfield is gapped too close and being triggered by flipper vibration. The game thinks the ball is up there when it isn’t. Put game in switch test mode and bang around that playfield with your fist to see if anything triggers.
Quoted from Nokoro:Likely one of the switches on the castle playfield is gapped too close and being triggered by flipper vibration. The game thinks the ball is up there when it isn’t. Put game in switch test mode and bang around that playfield with your fist to see if anything triggers.
I will do just that. Thank you!
I have the Castle walls with cauldron for sale. Pm if you are interested. New in box, never installed unfortunatelly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/castle-wall-mod-and-well
0CACD71C-5938-4C0C-B7DB-E51CC42ED965 (resized).jpeg4E46B2EC-AA59-480A-9D7C-BDAF79DEFAB0 (resized).jpeg7257BD03-907B-4BA4-824C-1E5B3E390EE4 (resized).jpeg80A91666-AD33-421E-AEE7-3FB13DF1107C (resized).jpeg8C1367FB-D3CF-4447-8811-89F9F715A266 (resized).jpegB75176FD-09B0-4E28-A186-350873A78FC0 (resized).jpeg
pictures are from the topic
Quoted from PinPeet:I have the Castle walls with cauldron for sale. Pm if you are interested. New in box, never installed unfortunatelly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/castle-wall-mod-and-well
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
pictures are from the topic
Those are really good looking walls! Cauldron is cool, too. If you can’t get Gouveia’s witch, that cauldron would be pretty bad ass. Pretty steep tag though.
If anyone has a Ruby Red edition they are planning to sell in the near future (ideally with the new 2.0 boards), PM me. Willing to pick up when the border opens or shipping is an option as well. Thanks.
Hi WoZ fans... just want to let you know about our Lit Ramp Sign now open for the 2nd batch group.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-lighted-ramp-sign-by-pmc#post-6196186
DSC_0007-1-1200x800 (resized).jpgIf the balls don’t release from the munchkin lock is the prevailing thought that the bar is not lifting enough?
Quoted from TaylorVA:If the balls don’t release from the munchkin lock is the prevailing thought that the bar is not lifting enough?
Play with the timing in coil settings first.
LTG : )
Quoted from TaylorVA:If the balls don’t release from the munchkin lock is the prevailing thought that the bar is not lifting enough?
Check the coil wire for cold or badly soldered joints first then
See if the mounting screw that secures the bar is tight before any adjustments.
The bar should not be able to be moved side to side.
A loose bar or loose coil makes the lift very inconsistant.
In fact, while looking at the mechanism with the Huts plastic off, check all of its fasteners including the big single screw that holds the coil. All should be snug.
When making timing adjustments, only change the numbers by 3 or 5 at a time to dial it in.
Small adjustments to the timing work best, write down the original numbers. Otherwise it can be maddening to get it right,
sadly one of my my original red shoe flipper bat broke today... i was disappointed to see that the part is not available on JJP store anymore, is there any other way i can find a replacement?
Quoted from hisokajp:sadly one of my my original red shoe flipper bat broke today... i was disappointed to see that the part is not available on JJP store anymore, is there any other way i can find a replacement?
The last time one of mine broke, it said it was unavailable. But I contacted them via email and they have them. You just need to reach out.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Hi WoZ fans... just want to let you know about our Lit Ramp Sign now open for the 2nd batch group.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-lighted-ramp-sign-by-pmc#post-6196186
[quoted image]
That is pretty nice, Im in
Quoted from pinballjah:If anyone has a Ruby Red edition they are planning to sell in the near future (ideally with the new 2.0 boards), PM me. Willing to pick up when the border opens or shipping is an option as well. Thanks.
I wouldnt be surprised if border closed for a long long long time still. Whats up with that?
Quoted from hisokajp:sadly one of my my original red shoe flipper bat broke today... i was disappointed to see that the part is not available on JJP store anymore, is there any other way i can find a replacement?
Save the pieces and glue it with CA gel glue to a new sparkly flipper:
JJP might have some but not in red glitter.
Rick was the last guy who had them and I think he's sold out.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Save the pieces and glue it with CA gel glue to a new sparkly flipper:
https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Flipper-Parts/Flipper-Bat-and-Shaft-Assys/Flipperbat-Transparent-red---with-Glitter-and-Jersey-Jack-Logo.html?language=en
JJP might have some but not in red glitter.
Rick was the last guy who had them and I think he's sold out.
Here ya go!
https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/flipper-bat-set-l-r-w-ruby-slipper-wizard-of-oz/
Quoted from hisokajp:sadly one of my my original red shoe flipper bat broke today... i was disappointed to see that the part is not available on JJP store anymore, is there any other way i can find a replacement?
https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/flipper-bat-set-l-r-w-ruby-slipper-wizard-of-oz/
Those are the black flippers that JJP replaced the glitter ones with.
Still not worth $53, imho...
Just scrape off the broken slipper and glue it on a red flipper bat?
Hey guys, after finally updating my emerald yesterday to the most recent code I feel like the image on the screen is not as clear and crisp as it was with the 6 update. Am I imagining this or does the monitor need to be adjusted now ?
My WOZrr started some strange behavior last night that I can't seem to wrap my head around. The game had been working fine up until last night and I have not lifted the hood in a while, so nothing recently changed as a part of anything I had done.
So initially, the game would play fine until the ball hit the upper left pop. Once it hit that pop, the flipper power would die and some random coils might fire (castle VUK or crystal ball VUK) until the ball would drain. Once the ball would drain, the house would spin for a second and then the flipper power would return and a new ball would get fed to the trough. Game would be fine until that upper left pop got hit again and then the same thing would happen.
I rebooted the game and same problem existed. Raised the hood thinking something on that pop might be shorting out on the side rail, but nothing I could see looked wrong. Put it back together and went to coil tests. Initially when testing that upper left pop, it would also briefly cause the house to spin once or twice, then that stopped. I went through the other coils and when I would test the castle VUK and then go to the crystal ball VUK, it would switch, but then fire the castle VUK one more time about 5-10 seconds into the CB VUK test. Also did through same the other way, firing the CB VUK during the castle VUK test.
Anyway, tried playing again and the game suddenly began to play fine with the upper left pop not killing the flippers. All was good until it hit the crystal ball VUK, and then that coil killed the flippers until the drain, the house spun for a second, before all was restored again.
Another strange thing was at one point back when the upper left pop killed the flippers, the game was awarding jackpots and super jackpots with callous as the ball was coming down the field to drain. I think this was happening while other coils were mysteriously firing.
Anyway, I have never seen behavior like this and don't even know where to begin diagnosing this problem. Anyone seen anything like this before and have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance...
Quoted from Calfdemon:My WOZrr started some strange behavior last night that I can't seem to wrap my head around. The game had been working fine up until last night and I have not lifted the hood in a while, so nothing recently changed as a part of anything I had done.
So initially, the game would play fine until the ball hit the upper left pop. Once it hit that pop, the flipper power would die and some random coils might fire (castle VUK or crystal ball VUK) until the ball would drain. Once the ball would drain, the house would spin for a second and then the flipper power would return and a new ball would get fed to the trough. Game would be fine until that upper left pop got hit again and then the same thing would happen.
I rebooted the game and same problem existed. Raised the hood thinking something on that pop might be shorting out on the side rail, but nothing I could see looked wrong. Put it back together and went to coil tests. Initially when testing that upper left pop, it would also briefly cause the house to spin once or twice, then that stopped. I went through the other coils and when I would test the castle VUK and then go to the crystal ball VUK, it would switch, but then fire the castle VUK one more time about 5-10 seconds into the CB VUK test. Also did through same the other way, firing the CB VUK during the castle VUK test.
Anyway, tried playing again and the game suddenly began to play fine with the upper left pop not killing the flippers. All was good until it hit the crystal ball VUK, and then that coil killed the flippers until the drain, the house spun for a second, before all was restored again.
Another strange thing was at one point back when the upper left pop killed the flippers, the game was awarding jackpots and super jackpots with callous as the ball was coming down the field to drain. I think this was happening while other coils were mysteriously firing.
Anyway, I have never seen behavior like this and don't even know where to begin diagnosing this problem. Anyone seen anything like this before and have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance...
Just a hunch, but the bracket and switch for the skill shot is really close to the rail and can cause a short to ground especially with the left pop firing right next to it. Try wrapping the bracket and switch in electrical tape — not a bad precaution in any case; see some of my earlier posts where I had a major issue with it — and see if that helps anything.
Quoted from Nokoro:Just a hunch, but the bracket and switch for the skill shot is really close to the rail and can cause a short to ground especially with the left pop firing right next to it. Try wrapping the bracket and switch in electrical tape — not a bad precaution in any case; see some of my earlier posts where I had a major issue with it — and see if that helps anything.
I'll give it a shot, can't hurt. In the meantime, open to any other ideas or experiences... I'll report back later and see if this made any type of difference, thank you.
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