(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

7 years ago


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  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by hisokajp
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11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 12589 posts in this topic. You are on page 243 of 252.
#12101 4 months ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

Can you please tell me which transistor?

You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - under Support - under Downloads - under Wizard Of Oz.

Page C-99 70 volt coil table monkey magnet Q334 Page D-123 I/O Board parts - mosfet IRL540 ( no schematics used )

Quoted from statsdoc:

Also, do you know if JJP still has monkey plastics?

Call JJP during business hours ask for Nate.

LTG : )

#12102 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - under Support - under Downloads - under Wizard Of Oz.
Page C-99 70 volt coil table monkey magnet Q334 Page D-123 I/O Board parts - mosfet IRL540 ( no schematics used )

Call JJP during business hours ask for Nate.
LTG : )

Thank you Lloyd ... and sorry for the trouble. I am having a Mosfet replaced on my POTC too. At least I have the parts around.

#12103 4 months ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

and sorry for the trouble.

No trouble. I wanted to help and give you the path in case you run into something like it again in the future.

LTG : )

#12104 4 months ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

do you know if JJP still has monkey plastics?

If not go into Gouveia's Witch Mod/Flying Monkey topic. I am sure that there are a lot of flying monkey mod owners that will be willing to set you up with their used monkey plastic for a reasonable amount.

#12105 4 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

If WOZ6 is truly the only one working, then either it or the one after it would be bad, if it is a board issue. Are you sure there isn't another working board after WOZ6?
Here's something maybe to try: Why not bypass the first 4 or so boards and see if everything now works (assuming you have a cable long enough). Then, add the boards back in in reverse order one by one to see if one is causing the issue.

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

You absolutely can - skip woz6 and plug the 84" data cable into the next board in the chain instead. Then see if the lights beyond that are stable.

Success! Problem was a flaky #3 GI board and one of the data cables attached to it.

After working on this system for the first time I must say it's kind of funky, leaving a couple of things i don't understand while troubleshooting the problem.

Bottom line it's up and running again! Again thanks to everyone for their help!

#12106 4 months ago

Over the years I’ve had intermittent issues with the SSD not booting. So far (knock on wood) reseating the cable has done the trick. I have a new drive waiting in the wings for the day when the original truly gives up. When that day comes, what exactly is the process?

I’m imagining that I remove the old drive, install the new one, plug a flash drive with the code on it into the update port and power up?

#12107 4 months ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

what exactly is the process?

Turn game off. Remove the old SSD. Install the new one.

Then follow the instructions and do a Full Install of the operating system. All that is available on the website is a Full Install of 7.02

Then you'll be back in business.

You might occasionally back up your settings if you don't want to lose any adjustments or scores. Then when the time comes. After your game is back up and running again. You can put all the settings back in. Except if you put in an image. That you'd have to redo.

LTG : )

#12108 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Turn game off. Remove the old SSD. Install the new one.
Then follow the instructions and do a Full Install of the operating system. All that is available on the website is a Full Install of 7.02
Then you'll be back in business.
You might occasionally back up your settings if you don't want to lose any adjustments or scores. Then when the time comes. After your game is back up and running again. You can put all the settings back in. Except if you put in an image. That you'd have to redo.
LTG : )

Thank you, kind Sir.

#12109 4 months ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Success! Problem was a flaky #3 GI board and one of the data cables attached to it.
After working on this system for the first time I must say it's kind of funky, leaving a couple of things i don't understand while troubleshooting the problem.
Bottom line it's up and running again! Again thanks to everyone for their help!

P.S. I couldn't have done this without Butch Peele's superior manual - allowed the simple minded like myself to understand things. Saved Steve from a Monday morning headache!!

#12110 4 months ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Tried that, they all turn on white!

And when you change the color? I’m having the exact same problem. I think I’ve narrowed it down to one single led board #21 in my case. I also had problems to reproduce the issue in the test menu with white light and by changing the color I was able to reproduce the issue.

Quoted from apinballwiz:

Success! Problem was a flaky #3 GI board and one of the data cables attached to it.
After working on this system for the first time I must say it's kind of funky, leaving a couple of things i don't understand while troubleshooting the problem.
Bottom line it's up and running again! Again thanks to everyone for their help!

I’m still in the process to fixing the same issue on my machine, how did you eventually found out it was LED board #3 instead of #6?

#12111 4 months ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Success! Problem was a flaky #3 GI board and one of the data cables attached to it.
After working on this system for the first time I must say it's kind of funky, leaving a couple of things i don't understand while troubleshooting the problem.
Bottom line it's up and running again! Again thanks to everyone for their help!

I’m still in the process of fixing the same issue on my machine, how did you eventually found out it was LED board #3 instead of #6?

#12112 4 months ago
Quoted from Sjoend:

I’m still in the process of fixing the same issue on my machine, how did you eventually found out it was LED board #3 instead of #6?

After confirming that woz6 board was working and while the lights were acting up I followed the chain and looked at each light board until I came to a board that was acting up #3 and the #2 board behind it was working. Found one of the data cables going to it was falling apart when I took it off the board. Replaced cable, game worked for a few hours and then started acting up again. Replaced #3 and now all is good. Hope this helps!

#12113 4 months ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Success! Problem was a flaky #3 GI board and one of the data cables attached to it.
After working on this system for the first time I must say it's kind of funky, leaving a couple of things i don't understand while troubleshooting the problem.
Bottom line it's up and running again! Again thanks to everyone for their help!

Congratulations on being able to work through this. Frustrating to say the least. This is a perfect example of why many have opted to swap in the 2.0 light system. Sure the original versions are fixable, but looking for the ghost in the machine can drive a person crazy.

#12114 4 months ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

After confirming that woz6 board was working and while the lights were acting up I followed the chain and looked at each light board until I came to a board that was acting up #3 and the #2 board behind it was working. Found one of the data cables going to it was falling apart when I took it off the board. Replaced cable, game worked for a few hours and then started acting up again. Replaced #3 and now all is good. Hope this helps!

Many thanks and I’m happy for you that you have fixed the problem. I’ve ordered a new led board and two new cables, hopefully I can say the same in a few days.

#12115 4 months ago
Quoted from Sjoend:

Many thanks and I’m happy for you that you have fixed the problem. I’ve ordered a new led board and two new cables, hopefully I can say the same in a few days.

You're welcome and thank you. I'm hoping you'll have the same success too. If not, feel free to drop me a line if you think I can be of assistance.

#12116 4 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Congratulations on being able to work through this. Frustrating to say the least. This is a perfect example of why many have opted to swap in the 2.0 light system. Sure the original versions are fixable, but looking for the ghost in the machine can drive a person crazy.

Thank you, appreciate it. Fully agree with everything you said. I would have at least purchased the kit to install later but due to some disabilities, one being chronic tremors, makes it a challenge to hold anything steady so I couldn't install it. This is the first ghost I've encountered in years, hopefully if I keep my fingers crossed it won't show it's ugly face again!

However, now that I have a better understanding on how the lighting system works if another problem does crop up I'm not nearly as hesitant to tackle it!

#12117 4 months ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Thank you, appreciate it. Fully agree with everything you said. I would have at least purchased the kit to install later but due to some disabilities, one being chronic tremors, makes it a challenge to hold anything steady so I couldn't install it. This is the first ghost I've encountered in years, hopefully if I keep my fingers crossed it won't show it's ugly face again!

The conversion isn't necessary or for everyone. Thank you for letting me leverage your pain to point out that not all issues are as simple as bypassing the fish board.

#12118 4 months ago

I know a number of Pinsiders upgraded to the Steve Gouveia monkey mod on their Woz. Would any of you be interested in selling your original monkey? My monkey melted when the coil behind it overheated from a mosfet that went bad on the I/O board.

You can PM me or post here.
Thank you

#12119 4 months ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

I know a number of Pinsiders upgraded to the Steve Gouveia monkey mod on their Woz. Would any of you be interested in selling your original monkey? My monkey melted when the coil behind it overheated from a mosfet that went bad on the I/O board.
You can PM me or post here.
Thank you

PM sent

#12120 4 months ago

Also sent pm. I found my old one.

#12121 4 months ago

You all are amazing. Thank you for the PM‘s. What a great crew!

Maybe my monkey will come back to life. I found someone to swap out the mosfet on the I/O board locally too, for only $30. it is beyond my soldering ability.

Cheers everyone.

#12122 4 months ago

My “c” and “e” targets in rescue in the upper playfield need to be more sensitive. I have a leaf switch adjuster but I don’t know how to access those targets. Do I have to remove the entire upper playfield or can I get to them in an easier way? Thanks!

#12123 4 months ago

Also the light of my “I” in rainbow is typically a different color than the other letters. Ie - it will be yellow during game play while the others are white. Is this a lightboard starting to go or is there some other fix or adjustment?

#12124 4 months ago

Is anyone looking to sell their YBR ?

#12125 4 months ago
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

My “c” and “e” targets in rescue in the upper playfield need to be more sensitive. I have a leaf switch adjuster but I don’t know how to access those targets. Do I have to remove the entire upper playfield or can I get to them in an easier way? Thanks!

Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

Also the light of my “I” in rainbow is typically a different color than the other letters. Ie - it will be yellow during game play while the others are white. Is this a lightboard starting to go or is there some other fix or adjustment?

Yes the castle playfield has to be removed to adjust the rescue leaf switches. A 1/16" gap is sufficient per bally/williams. It might be ok as it stands.

Your rainbow target board is bad. Order one from JJP, at some point.

#12126 4 months ago
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

My “c” and “e” targets in rescue in the upper playfield need to be more sensitive. I have a leaf switch adjuster but I don’t know how to access those targets. Do I have to remove the entire upper playfield or can I get to them in an easier way? Thanks!

For what it’s worth, I find the “e” just to be tough to hit well overall.

#12127 4 months ago
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

Also the light of my “I” in rainbow is typically a different color than the other letters. Ie - it will be yellow during game play while the others are white. Is this a lightboard starting to go or is there some other fix or adjustment?

Bad rainbow target board. I had the same issue. Thought I could live with it for awhile but it became annoying. I think I paid $215 shipped for a new one. A bit pricy but cheaper then a 2.0 total upgrade. That’s the only issue I had with my 7.2 boards...so far.

#12128 4 months ago

I am the original owner of a 3 year old RR WOZ. Recently it has developed a problem with the castle doors. I can knock a ball into the VUK after hitting the doors 3 times but the right door only partially opens. When the ball hits the right door it pushes it fully open. The doors close but when the doors reopen, again only the left door opens fully leaving the ball stuck in the VUK because it can't get past the right door. This eventually causes the game to search for the ball. How do I fix this problem. Do I need to remove the upper playfield to fix this? Thanks for your help/advice!

#12129 4 months ago
Quoted from Nameim:

I am the original owner of a 3 year old RR WOZ. Recently it has developed a problem with the castle doors. I can knock a ball into the VUK after hitting the doors 3 times but when the doors reopen, only the left door opens leaving the ball stuck behind the doors and eventually causing the game to search for the ball. How do I fix this problem. Do I need to remove the upper playfield to fix this? Thanks for your help/advice!

I had to replace the door motors to fix this. It does require removing the upper playfield.

#12130 4 months ago
Quoted from Nameim:

I am the original owner of a 3 year old RR WOZ. Recently it has developed a problem with the castle doors. I can knock a ball into the VUK after hitting the doors 3 times but the right door only partially opens. When the ball hits the right door it pushes it fully open. The doors close but when the doors reopen, again only the left door opens fully leaving the ball stuck in the VUK because it can't get past the right door. This eventually causes the game to search for the ball. How do I fix this problem. Do I need to remove the upper playfield to fix this? Thanks for your help/advice!

Agreed. I ran into this exact issue not long after I picked mine up. Of course it was the "right" motor that was the issue, just because its buried deeper and more of a PIA to work on. I ordered a new motor from JJP and swapped it out, problem solved. Check out post #49 from this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-right-castle-door-wont-open

Some really nice tips (like making sure to also get new screws for the door).

#12131 4 months ago
Quoted from Nameim:

I am the original owner of a 3 year old RR WOZ. Recently it has developed a problem with the castle doors. I can knock a ball into the VUK after hitting the doors 3 times but the right door only partially opens. When the ball hits the right door it pushes it fully open. The doors close but when the doors reopen, again only the left door opens fully leaving the ball stuck in the VUK because it can't get past the right door. This eventually causes the game to search for the ball. How do I fix this problem. Do I need to remove the upper playfield to fix this? Thanks for your help/advice!

LOL I have the same problem at the same time except mine is an ECLE. Ordered 2 motors just in case the other side dies soon.

As mentioned above get the screws. I just ordered 2 X whole motor assembly which includes motor, shaft, and 4 screws.

#12132 4 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

LOL I have the same problem at the same time except mine is an ECLE. Ordered 2 motors just in case the other side dies soon.
As mentioned above get the screws. I just ordered 2 X whole motor assembly which includes motor, shaft, and 4 screws.

Definitely get the door screws too, as the ones you have are undoubtedly bashed up pretty well. They may be difficult to remove for this reason.

#12133 4 months ago

Finally got my first undercab lighting project done. I think it looks great, only problem now is it lights up the mess of wires under the pinball machine.

But at least I got that great woody smell when I lifted the playfield to hook it up in the cabinet.. what a great scent, loved it

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#12134 4 months ago

Found my light issue on my WoZ Emerald LE. It is the #18 board. It is the original light boards. I bypassed it and the lights work. I checked JJP store but don’t know actually which one to purchase. I believe it is the 5volt light board. Is that the correct one? It is like $40.
Thanks!
Tom

#12135 4 months ago
Quoted from PinballT:

I believe it is the 5volt light board.

Measure the voltage to the power connector to any of your LED boards and see if it is 5 volts or 7.5 volts.

LTG : )

#12136 4 months ago

Will do.
Thanks Lloyd!
Tom

#12137 4 months ago

Go to play a couple games and second ball launched it gets stuck up just before the right orbit switch and the top of the munchkin playfield. Damnit, what's causing that? Mylar is that answer. Easy fix. But this isn't about that. Moving along I get a multiball and one of my balls disappears as I'm playing. No idea where it goes I just continue on and I'll get it unstuck or it will come down at some point etc... Nope. My single ball drains and the other one is still in play but I have no idea where it is. Ball search kicks on numerous times (47 minutes) before I finally turn the game off and remove the glass to locate the ball. It's literally resting under the switch arm in the middle of the ramp. Just sitting there not really stuck but apparently didn't have enough to make it around and got caught there in purgatory. Not common by any means and will probably not happen again. Damn, had a good game going too. No biggie, put it all back together and fire it up to play another one. Everything's fixed, let's play ball. Nope. But this isn't about that.
Start a new game and immediately ball starts auto launching and I see rescue 1 rescue 2 and the shaker is going off nonstop and everything is going nuts and there's no stopping it. Points just racking up like nutso, multiballs starting, literally everything is happening at once. I'm freaking out, this is it, it's my time and it's all over. In about 30 seconds every post in this thread and 20 more threads on top of this one covering every combination of problems on this site start rifling through my brain like its some weird movie scene.shia.gif
Turn the game off and try to reset it twice, no joy. Go into test and start looking at stuff. Magnet stuck, what? Let me try the monkey. It goes down now it's stuck and won't move. Great! I broke that as well. I'm compounding the problems at a rapid rate. Now my brain has switched to, what is this gonna cost in repair parts. New computer, every board, might as well do the 2.0 while I'm at it. What's the total? It's literally....
myers.gif
So now I'm looking up what scrap prices are at this point. It's impossible to fix so I'll just call Tom the junk hauler guy because everything is frozen, it's non repairable I'm sure of it and my stimulus check isn't gonna cover this one.... but just one more time let me try this.....and oh yeah! I somehow stumble and hack my way into the switch test matrix.
hackers.gif

I see this...
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and as I'm moving the playfield up and down I notice that it kind of flashes, huh, ya, the whole row flashes on and off like it's on, it's off, it's on....
KBYoLn.gif

Ok, let's end this debacle. The damn 2nd T in the TOTO rollovers, the little led/logic board that is 3m stuck to a little metal plate below the rollovers that is ever so close to all those metal screw heads that are millimeters away had come unstuck and was shorting against said screw heads. hurricane guy.gif
I'll have to figure a way to bulletproof that. It will happen again If I don't address it with a fix. I'm thinking rubber screw head caps to make it simple.

Today's lesson is keep it simple folks.
tenor.gif

#12138 3 months ago

If anyone is interested I have the flaming witch mod for sale in the classified. Upgraded to Steve’s so this one must go. Lmk!

#12139 3 months ago
Quoted from Flash71:

Upgraded to Steve’s

...and that's all you really need to know...

If you have the stock witch, ANY witch is an upgrade, IMO. GLWTS!!!

#12140 3 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

...and that's all you really need to know...
If you have the stock witch, ANY witch is an upgrade, IMO. GLWTS!!!

I must be the one person who likes the stock witch tube. She can't get bashed up in there.

#12141 3 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I must be the one person who likes the stock witch tube. She can't get bashed up in there.

How would your witch get bashed up? My ball has never left the playfield coming off the upper right flipper.

PS - If you had Steve's witch mod, you wouldn't be saying that btw...

#12142 3 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

How would your witch get bashed up? My ball has never left the playfield coming off the upper right flipper.
PS - If you had Steve's witch mod, you wouldn't be saying that btw...

I appreciate the work on it, I'm just kind of a keep-it-stock guy. I'm the same with cars.

#12143 3 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I must be the one person who likes the stock witch tube. She can't get bashed up in there.

The stock witch makes me want to grab a can opener to free her...

Sadly most people who casually play the game dont even realize the witch is in there, reflection makes the witch can opaque.

Changing out the can-o-witch makes the witch a more central focus, I think its one of the more useful mods out there, as well as the lighted Winkie target.

#12144 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sadly most people who casually play the game dont even realize the witch is in there, reflection makes the witch can opaque.

I will agree with that, she's angled off kilter and should be a more centrally positioned enemy, IMO.

The lit winkie target I could see too, I tried playing WOZ in the dark last night and had to refer to the screen for winkie state.

#12145 3 months ago

The Pinball-Mods flaming witch mod is bad ass! Makes the witch very present in the game unlike the stock figurine in a tube. Lighted Winkie target is also a killer mod, both highly recommended. Pinstadiums will be next mod on my Ruby Red, this game is just too dark. After buying a Wonka LE with Pinstadiums, I’m a believer now for darker games

#12146 3 months ago
Quoted from darkryder:

The Pinball-Mods flaming witch mod is bad ass! Makes the witch very present in the game unlike the stock figurine in a tube. Lighted Winkie target is also a killer mod, both highly recommended. Pinstadiums will be next mod on my Ruby Red, this game is just too dark. After buying a Wonka LE with Pinstadiums, I’m a believer now for darker games

Agreed! If you can’t get Steves it’s def worth it IMO. Anyone who wants it within this forum can have it for $200 shipped. Lmk!

#12147 3 months ago

What’s the difference between Steve’s witch and Pinball mods? Is it the bricks around the witch? Just curious why one would choose one over the other

#12148 3 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I must be the one person who likes the stock witch tube. She can't get bashed up in there.

Nope there's 2 of us !

#12149 3 months ago

BTW I know this is the WOZ

Quoted from adol75:

Nope there's 2 of us !

Me too, I kind of like the stock, would easily put it back if I had the energy.

#12150 3 months ago
Quoted from darkryder:

What’s the difference between Steve’s witch and Pinball mods? Is it the bricks around the witch? Just curious why one would choose one over the other

Steve’s is a better quality build and offers a more unique light show.Not to say the Pinball Mod one isn’t good it’s just not as good. Lol!!

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