Jersey Jack Pinball: way back when, the salvation of pinball. Here is my story. I was one of the first individuals to put a deposit on Wizard of Oz. The delivery date kept get later and later. I finally received my WOZ-ECLE in late 2014. From the get go there were a number of issues: the monkey would not capture the ball, the flippers were incredibly loose, the shooter would go through tips after less than twenty games, the playfield would not engage with the lock down bar bar. None of this was ever acknowledged or rectified by JJP. I figured out most of the problems by myself. For a game that I wanted to have so much excitement over it just never happened. I really tried to like this game. Every time that something went wrong I realized just how difficult it was to work on this machine. The underside of the play field is not at all ergonomic to access to say the least. I would curse every time I had to lift the play field. I did not have the playfield issues that many have described and this may well be a function of how little I played the game.

Then the board issue hit the fan. Mine had the 7.5 volt boards which was a small blessing. JJP wants $900 (if they are stocked) to replace them. The labour to install them is very significant. They will not acknowledge that the original boards are a POS and offer to replace them? Of course not.

Now this Guns ’n Roses shows up and you are all salivating to buy one? And the price has just escalated?

I will never buy another JJP product. Just saying.

I have posted this this in the G'nR forum.

I'm no apologist for JJP, had my share of issues and did the 2.0 swap on one of the 3 WOZ I have owned. Really was not happy with the POTC playfield situation, but that's also not to mention the WoZ playfield situation. I have one of each playfield under my bed, just waiting for the time I need to swap. But if you compare their build quality now to any other manufacturer it would be hands down the best. Don't even venture over to the R&M thread... Spooky's what, 4th game or so and they are still having lots of issues with build quality. JJP makes the highest quality games around from every major manufacturer I've seen. I can't speak to MM or CGC but compare side by side and JJP makes a quality build.

Im sure you have much, much, much, more hands on experience with these machines than myself, but personally, the JJP machines that I have owned need much more fixing than my other machines. I find them very finicky.. Also to note, JJP is still having playfield issues that are talked about often. Everyone knows you need to be careful with JJP and their pooling playfields. Perhaps this has been sorted out but the threads on here keep going.

Dont get me wrong, I love JJP but just being honest.

Luckily, I opted for the factory installed playfield protectors when I bought my WOZRR NIB. I did not know about any playfield problems at that time and just decided on the playfield protector since they offered it. In the 5 years since then, I have thought about taking the protector off from time to time, but do not want to chance any playfield issues if I do, so I leave it on. I would think that the clearcoat may have cured under the protector after 5 years, but again, do not want to chance it when I have a pristine, brand new playfield under there... lol

Here's the link

Turned game on this morning, like the other day it acted up for a second, then worked normally. Tried hitting playfield with my fist, no change. A few hours later in attract mode it started up....

Treat it like a failed LED board. Last one working, or first one flashing, isn't passing data cleanly.

LTG : )

I have the same issue and in my case it’s caused by poor a connection to one or multiple leds boards. You can track them down by going into the test menu, turn all leds on and choose white light. Check the connectors on the led(s) that have a different color until they turn white. Unfortunately you have to do this you quite often because JJP uses really poor and cheap connectors. It’s driving me mad to the point that I’m thinking of solder all led boards permanently to prevent this from happening again.

I think it is WOZ 6, same one I had an issue with. That one appears to be working, but all others are not. WOZ 6 is the first one in the line. Try bypassing it. If not that one, then try the next one down.

Thank you everyone for your input, very much appreciated! Won't be able to get my hands dirty until the weekend - been getting familiar with the flow chart and the board connectors in the manual and I have one question... I'm going to try reseating the connectors first - I know not to reseat the power connectors with the power on, but on the larger boards that have driver connectors can they be reseated with the power on?

No need to worry about them, just focus on the data cables and the chain itself. Side light boards don't affect the chain.

So anyone ever experience a smell of electrical burning before in their WoZ. Had machine on for few hours and came into the room last night and smelt a scent as if something was burning coming from the machine. It was late so just turned it off. Today I have a faint smell of it but cant find where it's coming from. Game appears to be working okay,

Sincerely,

Perplexed

Open up the box over the on/off switch. Check in there.

LTG : )

Take a look at the unified power supply (if your game has one, that is), front right corner of the board cage in the bottom center of the cabinet. Look at the inductor at position L9 front lower edge

Look at the power board as mentioned above. Pay special attention to the toroidal transformer like the burnt one in the picture below. (big white wheel with wires wrapped around it.)

Here is the post where the picture came from thanks to 27dnast.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/yikes-woz-fried-lots-of-smoke-where-do-i-start/page/7#post-5447763
There is actually a whole topic about this issue.
It happened to me too and JJP swapped the board for me. I know your board is probably out of warranty but I would definitely see what JJP is willing to do since this is a known thing.

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Love the game, but this doesn’t make me want to pay 8K for a pile of issues..... was considering getting one, but will pass now. Take it off my wishlist too.

I appreciate all the recent discussions of this game and it's disappointing about the price increase on GNR LE. Feel fortunate to have the machines that I have, but I am gradually waning from this hobby, as the prices for NIB games and issues is grating. I have also noticed increases in prices on the Bally/Williams 90's pins.

Electric trains here I come.

Update complete with figurines.....

My fav is the guy back right corner to cover that mech by the emerald city. Always hated how you can see that.

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Looks good. The 3 guards in the castle are really cool.
My twister covers where you put the coroner so I put mine on the little piece of plastic to the right of it.

Not seeing anything here....
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Appears to be good as well....
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I hadn't come across this series of posts previously so I decided it was a good idea to check to see what my toroidal inductor (L9) looked like. I don't leave my machines on but figured better get ahead of it in case I need to call Nate and order a revised replacement.
It looks like I do have the updated revision in there and looking to confirm. Board date is 11/26/2014. For reference my build date is 1/21/2015. I guess it is possible the previous/original owner had already swapped this out but it doesn't look like anything has ever been messed with in there and the board date is pretty close to the build date. I had noticed in a previous post the date had mentioned the revision of March 2015 so I wanted to just say it's possible it was earlier than that. Probably a good idea for everyone to check and see what they have in there so you can order a replacement. 20210205_083133 (Medium) (resized).jpg 20210205_083246 (Medium) (resized).jpg
While I was in there I changed the cr2032 to a fresh one cause, why not. Then, of course, after looking at the picture I had to clean my cash box. 20210205_101839 (Medium) (resized).jpg
Since the playfield was up I went ahead and put my last little aesthetic mod in there. It's the 1996 Hallmark State Fair ornament. I wired it from the top hook to one of the playfield backboard screws. Put a small piece of 3m mounting tape to hold the balloon basket from twisting as well. It rests on the back piece of plastic in the corner that is used for ball blockage. 20210205_104058 (Medium) (resized).jpg

You might want to take a sniff of that toroidal transformer. The wraps are looking mighty dark and may be the source of your fresh burning smell.

I think you're right as I pulled the board and not only the wraps black I can see browning of the board itself in this area. Off to JJP for assistance!

Don't forget American Pinball, not a single playfield issue with any of their games to date that I've seen reported. Other than the power supply crap they sorted out in Houdini they are very solid.

The only reason you are hearing about more issues with WOZ is that there are more mechs than most other pins. Some need adjustment. Really, the only things to really worry about IMO are the very early runs with playfield issues and the ones that use the non-2.0 light boards. And, for the latter, either find one with 2.0 light boards or, if you are willing to spend the time and money, upgrade yourself. All other issues are typical pin issues that could happen with any pin. Don’t let that stop you from getting one of the greatest pins ever made.

Nokoro's post is dead on accurate. My game is a February 2015 build which has the second gen 7.5 light boards (just prior to the 2.0 light boards). Even with them, with the exception of a hiccup I'm working on that I'm confident I'll pin down tomorrow thanks to the input of the many helpful people here I've had trouble free service and a TON of fun. Hopefully you'll reconsider and join the club!

That person is likely trolling. Why even post?

Looking for a WOZ Ruby Red if anyone is considering selling. Ideally near Ontario border, Michigan, Ohio, Indiana, PA, NY. PM if plan to sell in the next six months. Thanks for the help!

Getting ready to pop this in my WOZ EC. Thanks again. Yelobird !!

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Started troubleshooting this problem by reseating the connectors on the first board WOZ6. If I reseat J01 or J102 the lights start working and stay that way no matter what I do to try to reproduce it until the next time I power the game back up. Same pattern. I tried replacing J102 cable and boards WOZ6 and 29 with backups I have, same thing. Haven't tried replacing J101 cable yet since I don't have one long enough it in the wire trunk going to the I/O board. I'm just wondering with these symptoms if I should still suspect a light board or connector?

I'm still trying to figure out why if I reseat J101 or J102 on WOZ6 board the game works perfectly. I've bypassed several boards (not all) including WOZ6 and 29, (even though I tried replacing those boards), all to no avail. I've also reseated many cables on light boards and in the silver box. Power up the game, erratic lighting. Reseat connector, perfect. No evidence of loose wiring. I kind of feel like I'm wasting time bypassing more boards, and the problem lies elsewhere. If I'm wrong, somebody please tell me!!!

Hey guys how do u pull out the monitor for woz rr I don’t see a bracket like potc

You don’t that way. It is mounted and needs to be unscrewed on the sides and then carefully laid down on its face if you want to get behind it. Monitors on pivot arms started with DI

Come a long way with the new mounts. So nice.

Tried that, they all turn on white!

Does anyone know where a 12 volt for woz rr would be for me to use with under cab lighting? I wasted all my time removing the monitor and there is nothing behind there

Behind the CPU box in the bottom of the cabinet, back left side, there are a few red/black wire connector pairs using a 4 pin ATX connector (recalling this from memory). Some of those are 5v and some are 12v. Just test them out. Again, if I recall, some are for playfield lighting and one is for the topper lighting (although that might be a 2pin along the left side of the cpu box, outside of it). The other option is the coin door. 4 pin harness, black and yellow.. I think all games have this and it's 12v for bill acceptor.

Replace the connector?

12v adapter lugged into the service outlet?

Nice score!

I tried replacing J102 cable on WOZ6 and swapped WOZ6 and 29 boards with backups, still does the same think. I haven't tried replacing J101 cable to I/O board as I don't have one long enough to try. If you're referring to a different connector please let me know, this has become very frustrating. Thanks!

You’re gonna love it. It’s awesome!

That’s the first cable that provides the input to WOZ6, is that right? Yet, is it true that WOZ6 always works? If so, I wouldn’t think it would be that cable.

Have you contacted JJP for advice?

Yes that is the first cable providing input to WOZ6, and it always seems to work. Doubt it would be that cable as well. Haven't contacted JJP being a weekend, will call them tomorrow

As you pointed out from the video WOZ6 appears to be working and the others aren't. If a bad board affects only those ahead of it does it make sense to continue to bypass boards further along the chain since it wouldn't affect anything behind it?

If WOZ6 is truly the only one working, then either it or the one after it would be bad, if it is a board issue. Are you sure there isn't another working board after WOZ6?

Here's something maybe to try: Why not bypass the first 4 or so boards and see if everything now works (assuming you have a cable long enough). Then, add the boards back in in reverse order one by one to see if one is causing the issue.

That's a good idea, I'll try that. I didn't know you could bypass more than one board at a time. Thank you my friend.

I think you can, but I haven’t done it. Just remember to shut them off in the software as well.

You absolutely can - skip woz6 and plug the 84" data cable into the next board in the chain instead. Then see if the lights beyond that are stable.

I could really use some advice on a WOZ issue. I have a standard with 7.5v boards that I bought new years ago. Believe it or not I have had no light issues, but I have monkey issue that is very different than most. My pin nearly caught on fire from it. The coil to pick up the ball had gone bad, and I replaced it with the same coil. After a week or so of use, I noticed smoke in the back of the pin. My monkey plastic had melted and the coil was burnt. I have been playing ever since with the monkey turned off, but have decided to either improve the situation or cover it up.

That is where I need help. First, you guys are so much brighter than me on these electrical problems. Is the original problem likely from a component going out on the Input/output board? Could the problem be a failed MOSFET? I have no other issues with the game, so it is focused on that. I could have any electrical component replaced, but I do have the fear of the same thing occurring again and actually causing a fire.

Another option is to replace the burned out monkey plastic with something similar and just set it to sit statically on the back board. It takes away something cool from the machine though. If you suggest this, I could use some creative ideas on what to put there. I saw the „monkeys carrying away Dorothy“ ornament, but don't know if it would be too small.

I appreciate any advice. The pin is a keeper and I would love to make it a little bit better. Thank you.

New monkey magnet coil. New transistor driving it.

LTG : )

Lloyd,
Thank you. You always have the answers. I am not good at reading schematics. Can you please tell me which transistor? Also, do you know if JJP still has monkey plastics?

Thank you so much.