I was asked to post a couple photos of how i attached a couple of my hallmark ornaments.
The Coroner is attached to a piece of shaped plastic that is then attached to the game plastic. Overkill. No reason for this but I had some grand idea apparently. 20210126_183135 (Large) (resized).jpg

The Mayor is attached to a piece of acrylic that I heated and shaped and then double side taped it to the little metal piece that was in the game already. He barely clears the munchkinland outhole.20210126_183106 (Large) (resized).jpg

The Winkie Guard is attached using a piece of 14g house wire. 12g preferred for a sturdier fit but it will work fine. Wanted coating on the wire and had black as well as white and green on a roll of 14-3 purchased a while ago. No idea why I stripped the one side, there was no reason for it.
Honestly didn't think I'd get it to sit right on the first shot but once it was in it fit so well I left it. It tucks in nicely by that nut at the end of his staff and the castle wall indentation. Drilled a small hole just under his waist line basically. Its some type of resin cast so it won't crack easily.20210126_183549 (Large) (resized).jpg

Dorothy is attached to a screw with green wire the same way. I had some silicone washers so i put them on. Overkill again but i'm not removing them. This was the first one I put on a month or so ago. She shakes a bit when the shaker goes off and stuff but so far there's no worry about it losing its shape or position.20210126_183513 (Large) (resized).jpg

Hope that helps.
r/
Mike

Hi Everyone

Have my first problem with my WOZ. Turned the game on, lights working normally. In about 20 minutes or so the lights were flickering like lightning bolts, then would go from working normally for a minute, then flicker. I seem to remember another pinsider with the same problem, but can't find the post. About to lift the playfield up, does this most likely be a cable problem or a board failure?

When I originally got my ECLE the left outlane post was in the inside position and the rubber was pinched between the post and metal guide barely holding on by a thread. About two weeks later while replacing some rubbers and doing a good cleaning clean I was unable to replace that rubber without it getting completely cut in half from the metal bar... so I moved the post to the out position. A year or so later I am questioning why I am torturing myself and family with a game that already has a rule set I will never get through.

Is the game meant to have a rubber on the post when moved to the inside position? If so how are people getting it to fit.

- Mike

What light boards do you have ?

Please keep this between you and me. Don't tell anyone.

Yes that post gets a rubber ring. And if you remove the screw from the metal guide. You'll find you can move it over and there is a dimple there to screw it down.

LTG : )

Get the whole set from backalleycreations.com also get the 3d emerald city.

The tornado and castle walls with the little Toto, and the Emerald city look really good together.

Second Gen 7.5

When I had this problem, it was a light board. Though it could be a cable. Start by reseating the cables on the last working board and the next one downstream. See if that helps. If not, start following the manual about how to bypass light boards to find the faulty one.

Thank you my friend. Only problem is with all the arching from the lights it's difficult to find the last working board. Man I hope its a cable - only have 700 total plays on the thing! Will start diving in tomorrow. Do you recall what board it was that crapped out on yours? Will probably be my starting point if looking for a board failure. Oh the pain, the pain...

Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs - that turns them all white. Might make it easier to sort out if some are flashing.

LTG : )

Mine was the very first board in the chain that was bad so it affected pretty much everything. I forget which one, and can’t look in the manual right now. (Perhaps WOZ6 ??) If you have trouble telling, perhaps take a video and post and we can help.

Good luck! I feel your pain.

I always find the lightboard issue interesting when it comes up. I know it's a pain and mine will eventually go at some point. I'm really surprised someone doesn't offer a service or repairs these more often, or do they? I'd really like to try to repair these mostly for education on my part and something to do. I enjoy learning new stuff and like trying to fix broken stuff. As I wait for the 2.0 to come back in stock it seems like a usable skill.
I know herg and lyonsden had a great post a few years ago. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/where-to-buy-smd-led-for-woz-light-boards
Are these guys actually offering repair services? Is there another pinsider that specializes in this type of mini repair? My guess is someone could really make a decent side hustle if they wanted to take this on. Mostly on the bigger boards I guess as it would be more cost effective over the cheaper smaller boards.
Also, is it mostly the led component itself that fails? It appears so.
and...couldn't I just use the digital multimeter leads on continuity setting to check and see if it works?

Anyone want to send some broken boards my way so I can waste some time?

I looked into fixing some of mine and even had some success in getting things working again for a few months buy re-flowing the driver chip which is what I believe actually dies, not the LED but I can't confirm that. I do know the driver chip is the component that is obsolete and no longer being manufactured though. The problem is too complex to find with a simple continuity check or DMM, it the connection was completely open or shorted the boards wouldn't work at all.

Every one of my light board issues were with the smaller single GI boards near the flippers and slings, can't be a coincidence.

What I do is I have the game on and generate vibrations by slightly hitting the games playfield, to find the loose wire, its odd it takes 20 a bit but I have had that as well, the more you let it go on the more frequent it will get as that connection gets less secure. I will also put the game in the service position and do the same thing at the underside of the game and see if just touching a wire harness will get the behavior to do it again. All that being said static and Woz light system 1 can have some bad results so I don't love doing anything with this game on but lighting bolts won't work while playing so risk is required - or play it until its obvious.

Also, here's a plug/reminder for wizards mist and shine and wizards spray wax. Both are anti-static.
I also never touch the playfield until I've grounded myself to the game using a wrist strap.
The non wired wrist straps/bracelets don't work so I don't trust them.

I just got my very first WOZ. It’s a yellow brick road. Absolutely gorgeous! These mods from Hallmark are completely awesome! I just got my three guards and put them in the castle. I’m looking forward to copying a few of your mods as well – hope you don’t mind. Excellent looking machine by the way

Heck ya. Copy everything and add some more. Ebay for all of these mostly. Hunt them down and put them on your watch list. Normally a seller will get notified that you are watching and they will knock 10-20% off in a special offer to you or some stuff. Tthe ornament-shop is also a resource but the prices may be higher.
Be patient and you'll find someone selling at a good price. Make sure you look at the ornament detail and the photos closely as well as the description.
There are a zillion wizard of oz ornaments out there but not all are created equally. Here's a quick example.
Miss Gulch has a few mods out there but here's the 1997 and 2012 versions.
1997
gulch97 (resized).jpg

2012
gulch12 (resized).jpg

The 2012 is clearly the better cast and looks like her and I prefer the sepia tone rather than the color version.
I haven't got this one yet because I think it's too big for where I want to install it. Christmas is over so the prices should start being reasonable again.
Anyway just an example of the multiple styles and casts of the same ornament.
You need help researching one let me know. Make sure you check the sizes. Most if not all but the new glass slippers and the metal emerald city are a type of cast resin plastic so they are nice and lightweight.
r/
Mike

Can somebody take some videos of the winged monkey mod in action?

For flickering lights check the cables are all secure. I get the problem from time to time and that fixes it. I find the cables coming out of the metal case where the driver board loosen off, guess it must be caused by the shaker!

Hello, the monkey has started to release the ball a bit early lately ( not always, like 50% of the time ) so it bounces back to the play field instead of reach the rigth door of the castle. Is there something to fix like an opto ?

There are two limit switches on the big metal plate the monkey is attached to. One down by the playfield and one up by the castle playfield. The one up by the castle playfield needs to be adjusted carefully so the monkey goes a little farther.

LTG : )

Thanks for that I've seen that one, I was looking for another video, do the wings allways move like that or are they controlled by the screw motor that moves the magnet back and fourth?

The moving monkey wings is an after market mod.

LTG : )

Wings movement on mod is via attachment springs to monkey body.

Thanks Loyd, I know its a mod, I was going to try and recreate something similar.. since they are not availble anymore. I have reached out to Steve G about doing another run but he is working on other projects right now..

Mike, thanks again for the hallmark ideas. Here’s a few mods. The cornfield and fence input together myself. I’m definitely ordering a few hallmark ornaments though!

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I just recived the Hallmark winkie guards, where did you get the stone base that sits on top of the factory plastic? Also it looks like they doint really clear the glass did you have to cut off the legs so their staff/swords dont hit the glass?

My YBR Already came with the stone all the way around the castle. But yes, I cut off the legs which were pretty easy to cut/break off. This way, I could use double-sided sticky tape and stick them right on the stone walls. It looks amazing! And it fits.

I'm about to do the same!

Where did you get the white picket fence? Looks great. Would like to do the same

I bet you could find a ton of mini white picket fences on etsy for wicked cheap. the cornstocks as well. key word is "miniature"
that site has some remarkable stuff from artisans all over the place.

Made the #1 mistake of not taking a picture .Yoo lazy to go upstairs .How does this rubber go back on .As always much appreciated

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I’m guessing this way

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You guessed right, but you got the color wrong.

I have the Cliffy on my Throne Room so it looks a bit different.
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Thanks .last one I’m putting new Pinballs in I put in five then seen one at the bottom of cabinet ...is it 5 or 6 in the game

Got it

WOZ uses 5 pinballs

Thanks .I was looking for the sticker underneath still a rookie until April then no more exudes lmao

I got the fence and cornstalks at a local Hobby Lobby. Both look real good in person - bright!

Just an update on this. First, I thank everyone for their input. Was ready to take a video and try to pin down the problem a few days ago; turned the game on, the lights arced for a second, then worked normally. After playing several action packed games, leaving the game on in attract mode for hours (that's when it originally first started) and trying to reproduce problem under the hood I haven't been able to! it's been working perfectly! Don't understand what made the lights go nuts. Have a thought...my wife was using her heating pad at the time and I didn't know my sister in law turned on a radiator space heater as well, and they're all on the same power line WOZ and a video game are on. If the power to the game dropped some could it cause weird problems like this? Not brave enough to try to duplicate the condition and possibly screw up game!

New member as of Saturday! Emerald City, mint game with less than 400 games under her belt. Beautiful. Bought it as a birthday gift for my wife from another pinsider in town. Thanks Bonecrusher!

I got a couple small issues to problem solve that I will bring up for suggestions when I get time.

Excited to play her. The more I play it, the more I like it.

Congrats!

Confused by this. Stock is black rubber...

You are correct the stock is black. But this game is visually improved by using other colors for the rubbers. These are the colors I use on my RRWOZ.
The GITD color goes extremely well with many area on this playfield.
I do have black under the apron, next to the witch and the minipost in the above area.

Also black on either side of the castle door hole, but these rubbers don't really need replacement, they are not listed in the manual and are not in the pic below.

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That’s a cool picture. Now, show us your full WOZ.

Ahh gotcha. I was curious as I did notice the other colored rings in that pic...

Well I spoke too soon, problem is back. Space heater not on. Took video and will upload to you tube since I don't know how to upload directly to pinside and I'll paste link. Was wondering if anyone has seen this before.

Yeah, I was wondering if it would be back. I had a similar intermittent problem with a board. Rebooting the game helped, but only for so long. Eventually, I just needed a new board. I suppose it could be a cable, but if reseating them doesn’t help, then I would follow the instructions in the manual and start bypassing the boards to see if it is actually a board that is the issue. Sorry. It will be a bit of a pain, but you’ll figure it out.

I had the same problem and it was a loose pin that was located under the small upper mini playfield. I had to remove the small playfield and just pushed the wire back into place. Contact Lloyd from JJP he was very helpful with me finding and fixing the problem.