Won't lift up ? Using the correct key hanging inside on the coin door ? Not the coin door key.

Page C4 in the manual. See if you can figure how to remove the speaker panel.

LTG : )

Yup Def using the right key, the coin door keys won't spin the lock. I'll take a look at the manual.

Should the backglass wiggle a little even when it is locked? because I can't even lift is a mm, its locked into place.

Backglass is very tight in the slot.

Pounding with palms, striking upwards will dislosge it after many
many medium hits.

Its glass so no sharp strikes or prying.

The lock is open when the key won't come out.

Thanks mate gave it some more force and got it out, it was very tight at the bottom and the foam was compressed flat and hard. Tidied up the speaker cables which were leaving shadows on the backglass

Any answer on the Coil strength settings shows as "time in ms" rather than coil strength values on the bumpers on the latest code?

Hi everyone. I’m still having trouble with my door situation. The switch doesn’t register that well when manually bashing the door. I replaced motor, spring, and the switch twice. There is nothing rubbing anywhere that I can see. As you can see in the video it doesn’t really click the switch when I try pushing on the door. Should I try bending the metal bar where the spring attach to get it closer to the switch so it activates more easily? I feel there is not enough tension in the spring for the switch to activate. If I make the spring tighter by cutting it then the switch works but then it’s too tight for the motor to open the door. Your help is appreciate it.

If the door switch doesnt register you have an alignment problem.

Question:

Does the door switch work by manually clicking it. Dont rely on the door.

(yes, Im into the kirkland whisky now... lol)

The switch clicks if I push the little button with my finger. I replaced the switch twice to make sure the first one wasn’t the problem. If there is an alignment problem how do I fix it. Everything seems to be aligned and nothing rubbing against wood or playfield. I can’t move switch closer to the metal bar since it’s screwed in. I’m thinking maybe bend that bar in front of switch so it activates easier?

Whatever works, but be aware, all of us have fixed it without extreme measures.

Thanks to Barry at JJP, finally got to the bottom of this issue. It turns out that the start switch was wired backwards, thus showing closed when it should be open and open when it should be closed! This was never an issue with the old CPU board that I had to replace, and I've never altered this switch (it came wired this way from factory)... but, it became apparent once I installed the new CPU board.

Go figure.

Anyhow, wanted to note this fix just in case anyone runs into issues in the future.

Curious if anyone on here has the pindemption dongle for any of their home use pins? Seems like it could be a neat way to play a quick game with friends but I don’t even see it listed on JJPs store (although I know a lot of items you have to call about). Anyone have experience with the pindemption software and/or have one for sale? Thanks

I put it on my WOZ here way back when.

Fun if you have a bunch of kids playing for something. Virtual tickets or prizes.

WARNING. Before you turn Pindemption on. Back up your settings. When you turn Pindemption on. All kinds of stuff changes. Monkey doesn't do anything. You can only credit up game one at a time. All kinds of nasty surprises I discovered as I tried to change my WOZ in my arcade back to non Pindemption. Had I backed up my settings, I would have avoided a few days of new things changed I didn't like.

LTG : )

I have one. It was a neat way to play for about a couple of weeks, but haven’t used that option since. I do think it is good if you want to set up the game for a casual, non-pin head to play. There are some easy to achieve goals, and you can set it for unlimited balls within a certain time period. Whereas the regular rules can be intimidating on this pin for a novice. But, because I rarely have other people over to play, especially during COVID, it hasn’t been used.

woz started acting up tonight, turn it on, boots up fine but start button and doorlock buttons are all dead. any suggestions?

Fuse?
Loose wire or connector?

Make sure nothing unplugged from the start button itself. That's happened to me when lifting the playfield before. I somehow unplugged the start button.

Make sure no connector up by the coin door came unplugged or loose or loose pin in connector.

Then check J20 on the back of the huge metal box with the boards. Be sure it is plugged in tight both sides.

LTG : )

I have been watching this game and this thread for a long time and now I am considering buying one very soon. A few comments I have seen on other threads about game ranking seem to say there is an unusal failure rate for the WOZ machinery. Is that a general consensus, or just some isolated cases?

It has more stuff in it than any game ever I think so it makes sense it is more prone to issues. Most of them are fairly normal stuff except the pre-2.0 light boards which are really prone to issues and the motors on the castle doors which seem to fail often.

The original light system has been problematic, which is easily solved with the 2.0 upgrade. Other than that I am not familiar with high levels of failure for any of the mechanical items.

You know, the one thing I dislike about WOZ is the nasty metallic SMACK that frequently happens on plunge.

If there's anything that can be done about that, I would like to do it.

I think that may be your rubber tip being split which allows metal on metal contact with the ball.

No, it's some kind of ball contact in the upper right of the machine.

Felt tape in the shooter lane helped me with inconsistent plunges:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/47#post-3372442

Can you show pictures of them installed on your machine? I bought a set many months ago but have not installed them.

I'm not at home at the moment to take better pictures, but here are a couple overall pics where you can see them. I only used 2 per side, being the short and mediums. Did not need the tall ones, nor was there anywhere to put them. The only ones that are really "noticeable" (when looking for them) are the short ones closest to the shooter. The mediums are right before the huts on the right and before the castle playfield on the left. While playing, you never notice any them at all. And it beats having to move the pinstadiums everytime I raise the playfield. They work as intended.

EDIT: and if you scroll down a few posts from the post of mine that you quoted, I have better photos posted that show them up close and where they are installed. Maybe 10 posts or so down from the post you quoted.

1.jpg2.jpg

I like your white rail fence. - looks great!

Check out post #10536

LTG : )

As others have mentioned the pre-2.0 lightboards concern many. However I have the second gen 7.5 boards in my game, and with the exception of a flaky small GI board (which is probably just a bad solder joint) I've had trouble free service and a ton of fun for years. Buy the game, you won't regret it!

My game doesnt do this.

Throw/roll a ball manually up there and see what its hitting maybe....

Might be missing a rubber.

An update to my switch problem. I dropped off my upper playfield for JJP to service it. The problem was the screws holding the switch down were not tighten all the way. The switch was a little loose causing it to not register the bashing. Easy fix and lesson learned. Thanks everybody for their help.

Have a small issue wonder if anyone else has had and how they went about fixing it...

The rivets that hold the lock nuts for one of the witch microswitches completely broke off, so I can't hold one of the switches in place and the other I'm constantly fiddling with and it'll either be too sensitive or not sensitive enough, so I guess really it's two problems with the same mech.

Is it possible to just replace that plate that has the rivets for those switches? Is there a better solution? Has anyone built a mod to replace these tiny roller switches into something more practical?

Wondering whether I have to order a whole new witch assembly or if there's something else I can do. Just really disappointed with how unreliable that mech has been since I've bought the game secondhand.

Second hand games often need a few parts here and there.

I would just replace any parts that are broken or worn out.

The manual is a great place to start for exploded views and part numbers.

JJP will help you as you need parts.

Post a picture of your issue and maybe someone will have a clever idea on how to fix it.

I have inconsistent plunges as well and after slo-mo vids and observing it closely, the ball is making contact in the same areas where you have felt tape. Did you find that this corrected the problem?

Understood, just wondering if there's a better solution to these roller switches...at least on my game they've been very inconsistent and wondering if someone engineered something around them. I will grab a pic when I can to illustrate the issue specifically with the roller switch rivets.

My game has thousands of plays and has never needed any witch parts.

I think most games are fairly robust, you just might need switches and a bracket.

Thanks for the quick reply

Yes, though I probably need to redo it as the felt flattens over time and has less of an effect. If you compare the WOZ shooter lane with others, it has a longer area that is flat (no groove) and allows a lot of ball wobble. The felt tape lessens the wobble and seems to slow it down just enough. When I first installed it, if I remember correctly, I went from like <50% consistent plunges to 80-90% consistent plunges. As I said, I probably need to redo it, as the consistency has lessened over time.

You might be able to notice here. This is the mounting plate for the two micro roller switches that trigger the witch switch plate hits. This is part of the whole witch bracket.. The one on the left, the rivets have broken completely while the right is completely fine, which leads me to having to make constant micro adjustments to ensure the switch plate registers correctly.

If there's no mod to replace the roller switches, I'm assuming i need a whole new bracket.

20210115_154254 (resized).jpg

When I did this I had to replace the bracket.
Back to original problem this witch switch issue needs a good solution. I have repeatedly called in this topic for someone to make a better solution and to date no one has risen to the challenge. Still hoping something can be done.

Agreed, and thank you for your help...I will just order a bracket and go from there!

I think its a good place to install an MRS switch.

remove the complete switch assembly, dremel under the playfield a little thinner in front of the witch (1/4" to 3/8" thickness works really well).

Add a piece of flatrail with a heavy black bumper in front of the witch etc...

This would remove all the complicated parts and add robustness. The switch is plug and play and needs no adjustment.

It should be very easy to rework this and make it work. It would work like the trunk on ToM, but faster and more reliable, and does not require an eddy sensor board or controller.

However you would lose the single hits from left or right switch and a double hit for a center shot. I think this is ok as a trade-off, or simply put in 2 switches.

R&M game owners are now installing 2 of them in the wider than normal lane.

I have one in my Diner Cup and plan to add 2 more on my DW ramps under the who mobiles.

As a buyer of 3 woz’s, the only recommendation I would make to all buyers is to get one with 2.0.

Many people with 7.5 and older swear they never had problems......until the day they do. It’s a flawed system and it will happen. Sucks.

I have had a couple board failures on my 7.5v ECLEWOZ system, but I have several complete sets of spare boards now from 2.0 adopters, so I guess im fortunate.

Still I havent had to use them yet in thousands of plays though.

do you have a link to more on the MRS switch? This is definitely the way to go.
Also I didn't know you could get a double hit from a direct center shot, This is great idea I wish it worked better.

Work with Sonic , he is making and selling them.

I think he would love to come up with something.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mrs-for-ramps-a-universal-solution-to-plastic-ramp-microswitches

Personally, you could mock up the switch without removing anything at all. They can be stuck on with regular VHB siderail tape.

I would be very interested in the result.

Thanks

I really love the look of the ybr but it is missing the monkey. Has anyone tried making a 75th into ybr? I assume you just could clear coat the wire forms, legs, rails, lockdown, etc. maybe buy a translite and apron if available. I know it does not have the radcals. If anyone has attempted, do you have any pics. Thanks.

I don’t think you could replicate the sparkly yellow on the playfield.

I have asked if a sparkly playfield was for sale to integrate it into my RRWOZ but have been turned down every time.