Quoted from PinballT:

Thanks Guys!
Looks like I have my work cut out for me. I was reading that it some people 12 hours to do the Light kit.

Quoted from PinballT:

Looks like I have my work cut out for me. I was reading that it some people 12 hours to do the Light kit.

Quoted from PinballT:

Thanks Guys!
Looks like I have my work cut out for me. I was reading that it some people 12 hours to do the Light kit.

Quoted from hd60609:

Selling my crystal ball mod. Brand new, just not going to install it. Looking for original payment of $183 +$7 for UPS ground (shipping to mainland US only)... so $190. PM me if anyone is interested.
[quoted image]

Quoted from PinballT:

Thanks Guys!
Looks like I have my work cut out for me. I was reading that it some people 12 hours to do the Light kit.

Quoted from bobukcat:

It's not my product and I didn't use it because it didn't exist when I did my conversion but you may want to consider one of these to assist if you're feeling a apprehensive about the process: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1139-pinworlds/03336-woz-lighting-20-playfield-dimpler-tool

Quoted from PinballT:

What is latest code for Emerald? Is there a difference when you download updates from standard/emerald/Ruby Red?

Quoted from LTG:

7.02 is current. Used in all models, no difference. The only version available is a full install.
Your dongle lets things know whats what.
LTG : )

Quoted from PinballT:

So it will still have the different openings for the Ruby and emerald?

Quoted from LTG:

7.02 is current. Used in all models, no difference. The only version available is a full install.
Your dongle lets things know whats what.
LTG : )

Quoted from Navystan:

"Your dongle lets things know whats what." Yikes!

Quoted from LTG:

Not your dongle. THE dongle.
LTG : )

Quoted from marioparty34:

Melted my first witch tonight. I was so excited!
Then I realized I was still miles away from getting to Over the Rainbow. Just curious how many in this forum have reached it? I feel like it could take an hour easily just to get there.
And for those that have, is the payoff great? (ie. lightshow, music, etc)

Quoted from Medic:

Hello need a little help here. I’m sorta of new to pinball repair and this has been a massive frustration project. I’ve spent several hours in trying to fix the double doors and few trips to JJP for parts. It all started with one of the doors not registering when bashing. I couldn’t remove the black screws from the post since it started to strip so I decided to work with that metal cover over the switches. Felt like I was doing surgery on an ant. Long story short, I decided to switch the old switches for new ones. It fixed the bashing problem but now doors won’t open/close during test. I did make one of the strings tighter by cutting a little shorter since that was the only way that made the new switch work properly. I put everything back together and bashing the door works wonderfully. Could both motors suddenly burn out? I read something on the forums about a screw being in the way that could prevent the doors from opening? The only thing I touched were the switches so not sure if a screw can be the problem. Before I take upper playfield out again which was very time consuming, I’m hoping I can get some more guidance. I asked about dropping off the upper playfield to JJP but I don’t think they are doing that now. Thank you

Quoted from Medic:

Hello need a little help here. I’m sorta of new to pinball repair and this has been a massive frustration project. I’ve spent several hours in trying to fix the double doors and few trips to JJP for parts. It all started with one of the doors not registering when bashing. I couldn’t remove the black screws from the post since it started to strip so I decided to work with that metal cover over the switches. Felt like I was doing surgery on an ant. Long story short, I decided to switch the old switches for new ones. It fixed the bashing problem but now doors won’t open/close during test. I did make one of the strings tighter by cutting a little shorter since that was the only way that made the new switch work properly. I put everything back together and bashing the door works wonderfully. Could both motors suddenly burn out? I read something on the forums about a screw being in the way that could prevent the doors from opening? The only thing I touched were the switches so not sure if a screw can be the problem. Before I take upper playfield out again which was very time consuming, I’m hoping I can get some more guidance. I asked about dropping off the upper playfield to JJP but I don’t think they are doing that now. Thank you

Quoted from bobukcat:

Are you sure you didn't just miss re-connecting the cable that goes to the door motors or the solenoid that releases them to open?

Quoted from Medic:

I connected them the same way. The doors seem like they are trying to open but it seems maybe something is in hindering it. I read the link above and maybe it’s the springs that could be in the way. I cant see the springs without taking the playfield out again . Nature of the hobby I guess

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

There's a coil under there called double doors release latch. In test you can here it click when it's working. It pulls down the latch to get it out of the way so the little flags on the door shafts can pass over it. Check that in test and F708 also.

Quoted from Medic:

I forgot to check that before taking out playfield again. I just took it out and it seems there is plenty of room for the doors to open close if I manually move up the latch. I did notice that the capacitors were no longer sticking to the side of the motors. Perhaps this is the culprit? I’m trying to solder them to side of motor but not sticking very well. Will update

Quoted from Medic:

So I made a video of the problem. In summary, switches were replaced, springs were made a little tighter. There seems to be enough room for the doors to open when latch raises. Both motors went bad all the sudden?

Quoted from mikepmcs:

Both motors appear to be trying to operate the doors it looks to me. I see them moving a little. If motors were bad I would think there would be no movement. Not to mention the odds of both going bad at once. This seems like almost a mechanical/physical hindrance of some sort. All screws tight like the set screws on the shafts? Could be spinning inside the shaft?
or something is binding?

Quoted from Medic:

Sigh. I loosen the springs a little and the doors open but now they don’t bash again as it’s not enough tension on the switch. Back to square 1.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Both the motors are bad. I have seen this exact issue.
Both motors need full power the get past the spring tension.
The motors actually get weak, and have no power at all after awhile.
It has to do with the way the mech works. Stalling the motors as a stop, while they are fully energized without cutting the power to them, wears them out.
Replace them, get a couple spares also when you order.
Mention that people keep getting motors without capacitors on them, they might look into this.
Get some extra black door screws and maybe an extra door post (in case you break off a screw in a post).
Get extra screws for any that have stripped heads or are starting to wear.
Always put brand new screws in when working on this mech. They fatigue and will break on disassembly the next time you service this unit.
Get a proper Allen wrench set that fits the screw heads without any slop.
Put a little flat on the spindle shaft, with a dremel, to help with the slipping issue, if they havent done that for you.
I have put 6 of them in so far.
This mech can be maddening, but also can be made to work perfectly with a little care and knowedge.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Both the motors are bad. I have seen this exact issue.
Both motors need full power the get past the spring tension.
The motors actually get weak, and have no power at all after awhile.
It has to do with the way the mech works. Stalling the motors as a stop, while they are fully energized without cutting the power to them, wears them out.
Replace them, get a couple spares also when you order.
Mention that people keep getting motors without capacitors on them, they might look into this.
Get some extra black door screws and maybe an extra door post (in case you break off a screw in a post).
Get extra screws for any that have stripped heads or are starting to wear.
Always put brand new screws in when working on this mech. They fatigue and will break on disassembly the next time you service this unit.
Get a proper Allen wrench set that fits the screw heads without any slop.
Put a little flat on the spindle shaft, with a dremel, to help with the slipping issue, if they havent done that for you.
Put blue loctite on all of the screws, this mech is notorious for loosening up and failing.
I have put 6 motors in so far.
This mech can be maddening, but also can be made to work perfectly with a little care and knowedge.
Get this tool, works perfectly for removing bashed up door screws:
amazon.com link »
You will find many, MANY uses for this little tool on a pinball machine.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Both the motors are bad. I have seen this exact issue.
Both motors need full power the get past the spring tension.
The motors actually get weak, and have no power at all after awhile.
It has to do with the way the mech works. Stalling the motors as a stop, while they are fully energized without cutting the power to them, wears them out.
Replace them, get a couple spares also when you order.
Mention that people keep getting motors without capacitors on them, they might look into this.
Get some extra black door screws and maybe an extra door post (in case you break off a screw in a post).
Get extra screws for any that have stripped heads or are starting to wear.
Always put brand new screws in when working on this mech. They fatigue and will break on disassembly the next time you service this unit.
Get a proper Allen wrench set that fits the screw heads without any slop.
Put a little flat on the spindle shaft, with a dremel, to help with the slipping issue, if they havent done that for you.
Put blue loctite on all of the screws, this mech is notorious for loosening up and failing.
I have put 6 motors in so far.
This mech can be maddening, but also can be made to work perfectly with a little care and knowedge.
Get this tool, works perfectly for removing bashed up door screws:
amazon.com link »

Quoted from Medic:

Thank you. Will pick up the parts today from JJp. Will be ordering that wrench as well. I did ask about the capacitors and they said they don’t put them on anymore for their motors.

Quoted from bobukcat:

Nice set of suggestions! I'll add to be careful with the blue loctite and ensure it does not run down the shaft and into the motor(s).

Quoted from darkryder:

I installed the crystal ball mod and carefully moved the LCD screen with microSD card from the original crystal ball to the new one. It was displaying intermittent gibberish on the ball after the mod, now the crystal ball doesn’t turn on at all. I already checked the connector, reseated the SD card, etc. Wishing I hadn’t installed this mod as the crystal ball worked perfectly before. What are the chances that the small OLED board with the MicroSD card failed, is that common? I’ll check the associated fuse and test voltage at the power connector next. Any help would be appreciated.
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/OLED-Screen-.html

Quoted from darkryder:

I installed the crystal ball mod and carefully moved the LCD screen with microSD card from the original crystal ball to the new one. It was displaying intermittent gibberish on the ball after the mod, now the crystal ball doesn’t turn on at all. I already checked the connector, reseated the SD card, etc. Wishing I hadn’t installed this mod as the crystal ball worked perfectly before. What are the chances that the small OLED board with the MicroSD card failed, is that common? I’ll check the associated fuse and test voltage at the power connector next. Any help would be appreciated.
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/OLED-Screen-.html

Quoted from darkryder:

Did some troubleshooting. F710 fuse was blown so I replaced it. Not sure if that was related or not. So the crystal ball OLED screen just displays the “4D Systems 2012” boot or device hardware info depending on which way I plug the connector in. It doesn’t display the animations like it used to. I checked voltages on the connector pins and they’re all 5 volts except for the black ground wire. I tried reseating the SD card and it makes no difference. I don’t know which row of pins or connector orientation is correct if someone can post a pic for reference.
Since the OLED screen is very dim and not evenly lit, I’m pretty confident the screen is damaged and will need to be replaced. Coincidental that this happened right after I moved the screen over to the new mount when installing the glass crystal ball mod, maybe I connected it backward or handled it too much.
Let me know if any of you have seen this issue before. Failing that, I’ll just order a new screen from JJP for $119
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from marioparty34:

I was going to install my crystal ball mod today. Now you got me scared.

Quoted from marioparty34:

I was going to install my crystal ball mod today. Now you got me scared.

Quoted from paynemic:

Any thoughts?!

Quoted from paynemic:

So I have a problem with my upper left pop bumper. One game it just stopped firing. I didn’t have time to troubleshoot. A couple weeks later I opened it all up. Tested the switches and the coil With the playfield up on the rails and it all worked. Checked all the solder joints and it was all fine. After a few more manual triggers of the switch it stopped firing again! After a reboot I fired up a game and it was working again. As of now, it’s working. Any thoughts?!

Quoted from LTG:

Clean the leaf blade contacts - put a piece of paper between them, gently hold closed, pull the paper out.
Be sure the wires are pushed in tight on J8 and J9 on the rear of the big metal box with all the boards.
LTG : )

Quoted from Calfdemon:

Another issue that some have (mine included) is that because the pop bumper is so close to the edge of the playfield, when you lower the playfield, it can get hung up on part of the cabinet and lock. If I just lower my playfield, my upper left pop is ALWAYS locked and does not work. I have to actually grab ahold of the tree and push down while holding it to the left (so the base is to the right) when I lower my playfield for that pop bumper not to be locked up and work. I've talked to a few others that have this same issue where part of the underside mech gets hung up on the side of the cabinet. Not sure if that is what is going on with yours. But if you lower your playfield and are unable to push that pop bumper down, that is your problem.

Quoted from Calfdemon:

I installed my crystal ball without any issues to my screen. I have one of the pins though that had an issue with the ball on the wireform hitting the crystal ball afterward with the basic install (Steve told me that a handful of owners reported this problem as well). This means that I had my screen on and off of the mod, plugged in and unplugged, etc... NUMEROUS times over the course of about an hour while I tried to figure out a workable mounting option and mine still works fine.
Anyway, my solution was installing a piece of foam tape on the underside just off center to tilt my crystal ball away from the direction where the ball was making contact with it. Once I installed it with the foam tape stuck underneath, I had no further clearance issues.
I only tell you this just in case your pin has the same clearance issue and to offer a solution. Took me trying about 15 different ideas before landing on this one. Do not put foam tape at the edge of the plastic under the ball to tilt it back. The ball will push the plastic down causing the BALL targets underneath to stick. This is why I put he tape just off center on the underside of the mod. It does not affect the targets with this method.
Hopefully, you can just install it like most did with zero problems! Good luck!

Quoted from paynemic:

It is really tight over there. I’ll check that too. Thanks! It worked and didn’t work all while sitting up on the rails. Basically just stopped working right as I was triggering the skirt.
On the bright side, I melted the witch on the one game I played after it started working!

Quoted from paynemic:

So I have a problem with my upper left pop bumper. One game it just stopped firing. I didn’t have time to troubleshoot. A couple weeks later I opened it all up. Tested the switches and the coil With the playfield up on the rails and it all worked. Checked all the solder joints and it was all fine. After a few more manual triggers of the switch it stopped firing again! After a reboot I fired up a game and it was working again. As of now, it’s working. Any thoughts?!