Well I wouldn’t have minded a little brighter GI but I don’t mind that WOZ is dark either. Have a small floor lamp near by with low wattage bulb and if need be I turn it on and it adds just enough light to playfield while still keeping that eerie atmosphere.

I agree, I’m looking for ideas to add a couple spot lights. Pinstadium is ridiculously too expensive. I can’t see the left side art blades, so I really just need to light up the middle and left side of play field.

My hobbit is well lit from factory with spotlights

Added some side art and pinstadium omegas to my Emerald City just now, which along with Titan rubbers are my three must-do mods on every modern game that doesn't have them. WoZ really benefits from extra light. First game with the new lights, got my #1 (not GC) score. People taking about the PS lights blowing out the table, but you can adjust the brightness. I think I have mine at 65%.

IMG_20201229_195715.jpg

Anyone still sell the stand-up decals?

That’s a great photo. Looks like you have plenty of light but still keeps the dark mood.

Thanks. The extra light goes a long way towards seeing the art and tracking the ball, but you're right, dimming it down a bit still keeps the mood of the table. I'm thinking about blacking out the section of the left stadium rail above the forest to keep that completely dark. Maybe just a few winds of electrical tape, but not sure if that'll melt after a while.

I just did the same. PS look really good but can’t be brighter than 60 or so. Get a green trough light too looks great

Here's an available quality target decal supplier that I bought from:

http://www.wozmods.com/

Others options can be found via Google or on eBay.

Tech question:

I have the most recent software revision installed. Per JJP tech help, I've been asked to re-load the software with a complete ISO update.

I've followed the download instructions on JJP website. When I attempt to install, my game seems to indicate that it sees the USB stick. Installs something that takes a matter of (maybe) 25 seconds... and then the game is ready to play.

The issue my game exhibits (the witch begins to laugh at the start of a game, but abruptly goes silent... all other sounds and music in the game work 100%) hasn't seemed to go away. But, I have a pretty good feeling that the ISO update isn't happening. Shouldn't it take 5-10 minutes to install?

Wondering what I'm doing wrong, here.

Should take a lot longer to install.

You following the Full Install instructions ? Got the update on the USB stick right ? Loading into game right ?

Something is missing if it does something in 25 seconds.

LTG : )

Yes, I’m 99% sure I’m following all of the steps

The game wouldn’t be recognizing the full update as the current code on the game and bypassing a new install, would it?

Try bypassing the cable and plugging the stick directly into the motherboard

I found a few goodies in the hallmark store

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A bad USB cable can cause exactly this even with a USB 2.0, 4 or 8gb stick.
I had the replace the cable.

Plugging into the rear of the computer is a good temporary solution.

Also maybe try a different USB stick.

WOZ likes USB 2.0 sticks better than USB 3.0.

Petco and Petsmart sell these. You should be able to zoom in on the tags and find them somewhere.

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Yep - this looks like what I bought at Petco for my WoZ trees:

https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/imagitarium-hedge-ball-aquatic-decor

One plant ball will be more than enough for all three trees. I touched the leaves up with various shades of green craft paint and then sprayed them with a matte coat to make them look more realistic and less plastic-like. I've only done one tree so far - here's a current pic that shows the trees both with and without the leaves.
WoZ trees (resized).jpg

That looks very cool, I might have to spruce up my trees on the RR. How are you guys attaching the tree leaves to the trees, hot glue gun? Post some pics when it’s all done!

E6000. It’s a lot cleaner than a glue gun and can be removed even if it’s dried and set, if necessary.

Never heard of E6000. Would you recommend using it to keep the connector in place for the crystal ball as well? Mine keeps coming loose after a few games.

Hot glue the connector on.

Hot glue works really well and scrapes off easily.

Just dont melt the connector with the hot tip of the glue gun.

This was perfect. I'm not nearly as talented as you guys with this stuff but I was happy with the end product. I used the smallest amount of hot glue for easy removal of I wanted. Thanks for the help

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Looks nice. Did you get it from petco?

Yep link above

You gotta get the munchkin playfield edge guard from Cliffy, maybe.

I have it (actually have the entire set). I really don't like adding cliffys as they take away from the beauty. I much rather see the wood. When I need to install it, I will but for now, I like it as is.

Once you put the cliffy on, it can be perfect underneath or a routed mess - all the same. I like to see the HUO goodness for now.

The munchkin playfield cliffy prevents the damage but will not cover the damage that has already happened on the top from chipping artwork. In other words, once the damage caused by the ball striking the edge of the playfield has happened it is visible even with the cliffy installed. The cliffy prevents the damage from ever happening.

Agreed. I would highly recommend installing at least that one. It should be considered mandatory. And, it looks stock; doesn’t take away from the look at all. You won’t regret installing it, but it is very likely you will regret not installing it sometime soon.

Molotow black paint marker fixed the chipping on mine pretty good before I added the Cliffy. Looks factory.

So, its not too tragic of a touch-up.

Pixels Arcade LCD display that replaces the Wizard. Where is a connection that is under 12.5v to tap into on a YBR edition?

Hi All,
Well I just got an Emerald WoZ. I was so excited about getting it. I have a standard one and love it so I just got the Emerald. Looks great but got it home and it is having issues. One switch was not working so I found a broken off wire which I soldered and works great. Now the plumb bob and Monkey have sensor issues. Need to check sensor for monkey. Any suggestions? Major concern is that the lights work sometimes and sometimes it is only one light board working. I play my other WoZ and it works perfect. My new emerald lights really don't work when switches hit and then some do. The weird thing is when I turn it off, different things come on and then other times they don"t. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom

IMG_6019 (resized).JPG

If it's giving you a D27 error, it could be because you haven't closed the switch in awhile. Monkey magnet sense only works by doing the magnet sense test under device test correctly.

Hi,
It is D#06 error on the monkey. I find out that the lights issue is when the game is on for over 5 to 10 minutes or so. The bottom lights are just staying on with a few out. Hit targets and they stay the same.
Thanks,
Tom

Right okay. Open coin door, pull out top white interlock switch to restore high power, tests, device tests, magnet sense test. Roll ball up right orbit. The game must see the opto under the house AND the top right orbit made rollover or else it will not turn the magnet on. If it does turn the magnet on and catches the ball, check the magnet sense box on the monitor. If it legitimately doesn't work, check that the PCB behind the back panel is both plugged in and facing the correct way (components face in towards the back panel). Also make sure it hasn't been damaged by overtightening.

Lighting chain attached

WoZ C-52_Cable Routing - Copy (resized).jpg

It does recognize it and works. That is the thing. Sometimes the monkey will only go halfway and sometimes it will make it down and get the ball. Maybe the monkey needs to be greased?

How would I know if I have bad light boards? The lights work when it first starts but then most just stayed lit. Would it be bad light boards or power issues before the light boards? It happens mostly to the lower light boards.

Definitely grease it if it hasn't been.

Follow the diagram on Steve's post 11832. The data harnesses going in a straight line. W6 to #29 to # 1 to #2 etc. etc. They don't always go numerically. Follow the diagram. Find the last working LED board. The first one after it that is messed up is the bad LED board.

LTG : )

Follow the chain - put the game in test menu so all the lights are forced white. Follow the chain I sent to you. Where the chain breaks, it is either the last lit board or the first dark board that you need to bypass using the data cables. DO NOT plug in or unplug the POWER cables with the game on (violet and black wires). You will damage things. Data cables are okay to move with the power on.

Edit - just listen to Lloyd.

Thanks Guys! I will check this out. If it is a bad board, do you need to replace all boards to the new ones or can one board be replace or repaired?
Tom

One can be replaced.

That is good. I have the board set from JJP that cost $800. So I can just replace the ones that need it.
What is the best grease for the Monkey?
Thanks!

You can order a new board from the website. If the data harness reaches, you can bypass a board. As an example say #22 is bad. You can run the data harness from #21 to #23 instead. Turn #22 off in Settings. When you get a new board, install it. Get data harnesses back in the right order. And turn the board back on in settings.

jerseyjackpinball.com - go to Store - Parts - Wizard of Oz.

LTG : )

If you want to grease your monkey. I'd clean off the old grease. See picture. The monkey slides on the lower smooth rod and travels on the threaded rod. The red arrows point to them.

I'd remove old grease from the threaded rod and top of the smooth rod. Then put a thin bead of grease on the top of the smooth rod and then on the threaded rod.

Run the monkey up and down a few times in Tests - Devices - Monkey. And your monkey should be good for a long time.

LTG : )

monkey (resized).JPG

To be clear, the $800 board set that it sounds like you bought is likely the 2.0 board set. Those cannot be swapped for version 1 boards. Did you in fact buy the 2.0 conversion kit to do an upgrade someday?

Yes, the previous owner had them with it when I purchased it. So I am sure they are the conversion kit.
Thank you!

Please read Nokoro post. If you bought the $800 2.0 light board set. Don't try replacing them from the 2.0 set. Not the same system, won't work.

I use a grease for garage door openers. Anything can be used. You can search this topic for the word grease and see what all comes up.

LTG : )

Grease both the threaded and the rider below the threaded rod as well. Use white lithium or super lube. I use white lithium. Careful when you test it after because that threaded rod will spin that grease everywhere. Don't cake it on either. No reason to put it on like it was shot out of a fire hose.
My monkey was wonky when I was shaking mine down but.... running device tests first to verify operation and travel, a couple adjustments to both the monkey and the opto, a little cleaning and some new grease and he was flying down and snatching balls like you read about.
Also, watch this video to get comfortable with troubleshooting the Monkey and magnet. I'm not saying this is the end all be all video but he hits some major things to check and its a visual reference to gain confidence. This game is intimidating but if you make it small by working within small areas at a time it will be easier. Focus on one problem at a time. You seem to have more than one gremlin so pick one and only troubleshoot that one first. Get that monkey working and you'll be pumped when it comes to taking on the LED issue.

If the kit has a B.A.G Board and HUB board, and a bunch of ethernet cables. It's the 2.0 conversion kit.

Now might be a good time to install it.

LTG : )

I take too long to type apparently. Listen to Lloyd and Steve mostly but hopefully all our other inputs will maybe cover something of use as well.
Maybe it's time to do that changeover to the actual 2.0 system. I'm waiting for them to come back in stock myself. Fix the monkey first. LOL!

Please continue to do so. Something can be missed. Or posted a bit differently and is understood better. All helps the person get the most out of their game.

I'm usually responding to multiple things in many different places. So I often come and go.

LTG : )

Oh yeah. Get a set of inside cabinet protectors if you don't already have them from JJP.
Call JJP first and see if they'll sell a set of the ones they supplied me with when I got my Wonka CE. They are a must have in my opinion.

If not, buy these.
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html