(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

9 years ago


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  • 15,243 posts
  • 751 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by meSz
  • Topic is favorited by 331 Pinsiders

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12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 15,243 posts in this topic. You are on page 236 of 305.
#11751 3 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

not dropping it.

Check the small coil for broken wires. Trip that coil by hand, maybe the dropper thingy broke off.

LTG : )

#11752 3 years ago

So to be clear - there is an additional coil that drops the target during game play without it being struck - this coil not working properly or at all will create the “clicking” noise I am occasionally hearing during some multiballs near the upper throne playfiled?

#11753 3 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

So to be clear - there is an additional coil that drops the target during game play without it being struck

Yes. You can see it above the big coil in the picture.

Work it by hand to see if it drops the target when up.

LTG : )

IMG_0437 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPG
#11754 3 years ago

. I’ll check it out - thx rager and Lloyd.

#11755 3 years ago

Hello. So I just got an LE woz and still trying to learn the game. There are times where main score just keeps ranking up non stop without me hitting anything. I can provide a video but was wondering if this is normal as I’m new to the game. Thanks

#11756 3 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

There are times where main score just keeps ranking up non stop without me hitting anything.

I'd go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed and see if you can figure what is stuck closed. Or bang on playfield and see what switch is too sensitive and reports on the screen.

LTG : )

#11757 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed and see if you can figure what is stuck closed. Or bang on playfield and see what switch is too sensitive and reports on the screen.
LTG : )

It says Check matrix switch #20 castle exit on wire ramp stuck open. Any idea how I can fix it? I think it’s the picture shown?

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#11758 3 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

It says Check matrix switch #20 castle exit on wire ramp stuck open. Any idea how I can fix it? I think it’s the picture shown?

Tests - Switches - Matrixed - pass your finger between the optos. If they don't register on the screen. Check the solder joints on their backs, and wiring to the opto driver board hanging underneath the playfield. You could even switch that harness connector with another spot on the opto driver board and see if it registers. In a different spot it will register as a different switch on the screen. If it doesn't register, then the wires from the opto driver board to and including the optos have an issue.

LTG : )

#11759 3 years ago

Ok... that “L” bracket does trigger the target down - however that side assembly was loose and had some significant play. I tightened it down “super easy screw to get to” and let’s see what happens.

Thx again.
Mike.

#11760 3 years ago

Anyone know what I need to do to get my multiball release to work better? It seems very weak and doesn’t seem to want to raise all of the time. Sometimes I have to nudge the machine to take some pressure off of it so it will raise up.

#11761 3 years ago
Quoted from MooButt:

Anyone know what I need to do to get my multiball release to work better?

Go into coil settings and increase the timing.

LTG : )

#11762 3 years ago
Quoted from MooButt:

Anyone know what I need to do to get my multiball release to work better? It seems very weak and doesn’t seem to want to raise all of the time. Sometimes I have to nudge the machine to take some pressure off of it so it will raise up.

Adjust the height of the lock arm so it is exactly 1/4” from the bottom of the metal U on the lock arm to the surface of the plastic ramp. There is a small tongue on the underside of the bracket that supports the big arm. Slide the playfield forward to the back set of feet so you can walk up to the right side of the machine and see the lock coil under the munchkin huts. Take nothing apart. Just move the small metal tongue gently up or down until you reach the gap of exactly 1/4” as I said before. In the factory we used a 1/4” LExan block to slide under the arm to make it as exact as we could. If yours is even a bit too low, with three balls pushing against it it will struggle to lift. Adjusted too high and the balls will blow right through even if the arm is down. Get the gap correct and you’re all set.

#11763 3 years ago
Quoted from MooButt:

Anyone know what I need to do to get my multiball release to work better? It seems very weak and doesn’t seem to want to raise all of the time. Sometimes I have to nudge the machine to take some pressure off of it so it will raise up.

Make sure the screw that holds the locking bar is tight.

Even slightly loose affects the way it works.

It shouldnt move left or right at all.

#11764 3 years ago

Ordered the Mantis Amusements 3 piece hole protectors for a World Cup Soccer with the idea that they could fit in and protect the holes in my WOZ. Definitely a direct fit in the Throne vuk. Haven't tried the Castle vuk yet and the munchkin out hole will require a little manipulation but I think I can make the metal smaller to fit the hole. This is a dry fit and I will add a bit of clear silicone and find best positioning when it's time to install for real.
Also, a public apology to kstairmantis at Mantis Amusements for giving him crap about the length of shipping time it took for the parts to get here. I didn't do my research with regard to the US Postal Service having a really bad go right now. Sorry Kerry for being a jackass.
The 3 piece set is here: https://mantispinball.com/product-category/world-cup-soccer/
r/
Mike

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#11765 3 years ago
Quoted from HornerSyndrome:

I found some posts about this issue but not sure if it’s the same fix or not. Both of the witch switched #57 and 58 are stuck open. If I switch test it they both work well if it push on the top part of the black strike plate but if I push in on the bottom part where the ball hits nothing happens. I saw LTGs posts about loosening up the 4 screws to adjust the mounting position of the switches below the playfield but I can’t seem to move it back as the small green witch lightboard is butted up against it. I even saw where someone notched out that lightboard to accommodate this. Can anyone tell me if this is what I need to do so that when the bottom part of the black strike plate registers a hit? If so what do you use to cut into the lightboard without messing this up. Below is a pic of one of the switches up against the lightboard. Lastly, what size are these tiny nuts that hold the switch? Thanks so much in advance![quoted image]

This is begging to be solved by an aftermarket solution. I have never been satisfied no matter how it was adjusted and I have played several games where it is just much to difficult to actually get the switches to register. If you do start moving the switches please be very careful when retightening those nuts. The bolts are super fragile and very easy to twist the end off. When that happens you are stuck replacing the whole chasis that holds the switches as the bolts are not separately replaceable. Ask me how I know

This is a mod that will sell like hotcakes if anyone can figure it out.

#11766 3 years ago

just joined the club and am having a few issues out of the box.

one of the doors in the castle is sticking and making a buzzing sound. is this a common issue? easy fix hopefully?

#11767 3 years ago
Quoted from cleanandlevel:

just joined the club and am having a few issues out of the box.
one of the doors in the castle is sticking and making a buzzing sound. is this a common issue? easy fix hopefully?

Set screws underneath have come loose. There’s a walkthrough of how to remove the castle playfield in the manual which is a free download from our website.

#11768 3 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

. I’ll check it out - thx rager and Lloyd.

Just saw your response.. I figured that was the issue. Were you able to resolve this?

For mine, that metal lever that pushes the target to make it go down was not engaging fully. It was catching on the playfield a little and I had to bend it slightly to engage the target fully.

the red circle on the picture is the lever that i needed to tweak a little. Once I did that, it was able to hit the target hard enough to drop it...

wonka coil1 (resized).jpgwonka coil1 (resized).jpg
#11769 3 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Ok... that “L” bracket does trigger the target down - however that side assembly was loose and had some significant play. I tightened it down “super easy screw to get to” and let’s see what happens.
Thx again.
Mike.

So far after about 15 games or so I have not heard the clicking sound. Was not able to play since Saturday night But hopefully resolved.

Thx

#11770 3 years ago

I'm having the common ball trough issues and have removed the apron and bent the metal flap farther out, but it seems like the issue is it's hitting the apron and bouncing back. if I adjust the apron for clearance, it's then crooked... any advice? thx

#11771 3 years ago
Quoted from cleanandlevel:

I'm having the common ball trough issues and have removed the apron and bent the metal flap farther out, but it seems like the issue is it's hitting the apron and bouncing back. if I adjust the apron for clearance, it's then crooked... any advice? thx

Besides bending the flap, you also need to play with the ball trough vertical up kicker strength. Both weaker or stronger.

LTG : )

#11772 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Besides bending the flap, you also need to play with the ball trough vertical up kicker strength. Both weaker or stronger.
LTG : )

went all the way up and then all the way down. apron is getting worn where the ball keeps hitting. again, can't adjust apron without it being crooked...

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#11773 3 years ago
Quoted from cleanandlevel:

can't adjust apron without it being crooked...

I'd shim the whole ball trough along one side so it's aimed away from the apron a little.

LTG : )

#11774 3 years ago

It looks like the whole trough is off center in the slot. I assume that bending the flap in doesn’t work either. Is there any adjustability for moving the whole apron forward?

#11775 3 years ago

I think I got it, gives me some rejects sometimes, but mostly fine right now. had it reject a couple times during toto once and it just ended my ball. def needs fine tuning.

now on to the upper playfield door jamming issue. I'll disassemble like yall mentioned and see about the screws. thanks for all the help.

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#11776 3 years ago

Installed another AWESOME set of Pingraffix ( www.pingraffix.com ) from @joeraptor2003. They really go well with the game and liven up the playfield.
I use the wet method and its always been a simple install. Since I don't have assistance I found the best way was for me to put on my side protectors, slide the playfield out to the farthest maintenance stop and then lift the back of the playfield until it is clear of the cabinet. I use 2 ratchet straps and my triple bowling ball bag (50 pounds) to hold the front down. Here's a couple pics. Just remember to use those side protectors every time you lower or raise your playfield.
Thanks @joeraptor2003! Great stuff!
r/
Mike

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#11777 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Installed another AWESOME set of Pingraffix ( www.pingraffix.com ) from joeraptor2003. They really go well with the game and liven up the playfield.
I use the wet method and its always been a simple install. Since I don't have assistance I found the best way was for me to put on my side protectors, slide the playfield out to the farthest maintenance stop and then lift the back of the playfield until it is clear of the cabinet. I use 2 ratchet straps and my triple bowling ball bag (50 pounds) to hold the front down. Here's a couple pics. Just remember to use those side protectors every time you lower or raise your playfield.
Thanks joeraptor2003! Great stuff!
r/
Mike
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great! I have a set to put on today. Did the Hobbit yesterday and turned out well now to put them on WOZ. Can't imagine trying this without using the wet method.

#11778 3 years ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

Looks great! I have a set to put on today. Did the Hobbit yesterday and turned out well now to put them on WOZ. Can't imagine trying this without using the wet method.

Where can I find out about the "Wet Metheod"?

#11779 3 years ago
Quoted from Jecco74:

Where can I find out about the "Wet Metheod"?

I read a few posts about it. Basically get a spray bottle of soapy water. Spray the cabinet where it will be applied and remove the sticker backing and spray over the adhesive on the decal. Now you can set in place on the cabinet. The soapy water allows you to move the decal around before it sticks. Once in position you wipe over the decal with a towel, pushing out the water underneath.

#11780 3 years ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

I read a few posts about it. Basically get a spray bottle of soapy water. Spray the cabinet where it will be applied and remove the sticker backing and spray over the adhesive on the decal. Now you can set in place on the cabinet. The soapy water allows you to move the decal around before it sticks. Once in position you wipe over the decal with a towel, pushing out the water underneath.

I recommend using some kind of squeegee, depending on the type of material you may need to wrap it in a soft microfiber cloth first.

#11781 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Actually the screw heads snapped off the mount plate when I tried to take it off to put new pop bumper bodies on. Red loctite is very good at it's job.

Pro tip:

When removing machine screws that have been secured with loctite, heat it up with a soldering iron before unscrewing.

The heat will loosen the loctite bond.

#11782 3 years ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

Looks great! I have a set to put on today. Did the Hobbit yesterday and turned out well now to put them on WOZ. Can't imagine trying this without using the wet method.

Just did mine last week not using wet method. Very easy, quick, and perfectly on. Had my wife hold play field straight up and you can easily have access to line it up and work decal on from back to front.

#11783 3 years ago

Help! How do I melt the witch? I have gotten there twice and one ball drains in 5 secs as I am trying to figure out what to hit. Thx!

#11784 3 years ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Help! How do I melt the witch? I have gotten there twice and one ball drains in 5 secs as I am trying to figure out what to hit. Thx!

Hit the white or red shots. White is worth more but they count the same towards the goal. You need to hit four of them.

After you do that, the drop target will come down. Hit a ball into the saucer behind the drop target. It will “lock” there starting a timer. You then have to hit the other ball up the ramp. The diverter will send it down the munchkin playfield and to the upper flipper. You then have to hit the witch, thereby melting her.

Good luck!

#11785 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hit the white or red shots. White is worth more but they count the same towards the goal. You need to hit four of them.
After you do that, the drop target will come down. Hit a ball into the saucer behind the drop target. It will “lock” there starting a timer. You then have to hit the other ball up the ramp. The diverter will send it down the munchkin playfield and to the upper flipper. You then have to hit the witch, thereby melting her.
Good luck!

Thanks!

#11786 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Game needs more GI. Anybody add spot lights and where?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Sadly, ALL JJP games suffer from too little gi. wonka has 7 or 8 total gi bulbs! Why does JJP cheap out on the gi? Doing so makes way for places like pinstadium to follow through.

Sad that after spending almost $10k on a JJP game, we need to spend another $500 on a pinstadium fusion neo because JJP won't adequately light their very expensive pinball games.

#11787 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

breaking more stuff....
[quoted image]

my dad always said... don't fix it if it ain't broken. You sir are a prime example of that. >;(

#11788 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

That $29.99 WOZ Playfield Protector Set(PPS)...I finally asked what it is. I plan to use both uppers and just store the main playfield protector.

Just don't break a bunch of stuff trying to install it with your sausage fingers.

#11789 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

This is begging to be solved by an aftermarket solution. I have never been satisfied no matter how it was adjusted and I have played several games where it is just much to difficult to actually get the switches to register. If you do start moving the switches please be very careful when retightening those nuts. The bolts are super fragile and very easy to twist the end off. When that happens you are stuck replacing the whole chasis that holds the switches as the bolts are not separately replaceable. Ask me how I know
This is a mod that will sell like hotcakes if anyone can figure it out.

yup agreed. My witch switches are always throwing an error and never working right even after loosening those nuts and moving it as LTG says to. The witch switches are a complete and total design flaw that needs a recall.

#11790 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Installed another AWESOME set of Pingraffix
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

with near zero gi lights on woz can you even see the side blades?

#11791 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

Sadly, ALL JJP games suffer from too little gi. wonka has 7 or 8 total gi bulbs! Why does JJP cheap out on the gi? Doing so makes way for places like pinstadium to follow through.
Sad that after spending almost $10k on a JJP game, we need to spend another $500 on a pinstadium fusion neo because JJP won't adequately light their very expensive pinball games.

My DI has plenty of light. I haven’t seen it in person, but I would venture GnR does as well.

#11792 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

Sadly, ALL JJP games suffer from too little gi. wonka has 7 or 8 total gi bulbs! Why does JJP cheap out on the gi? Doing so makes way for places like pinstadium to follow through.
Sad that after spending almost $10k on a JJP game, we need to spend another $500 on a pinstadium fusion neo because JJP won't adequately light their very expensive pinball games.

Wonka is incredibly dark. My GNR is well lit and see no need for added lights. My Woz has several spotlights added and would find the game hard to enjoy if they weren't there. My hobbit is well lit as well but has spotlights too. Not sure if Hobbits are aftermarket.

Currently looking for lighting options on my Wonka (besides pinstadiums) if any one can pm me in the right direction. What are people using for lighting with JJP games (not pinstadiums)?

#11793 3 years ago

yeah my woz and Wonka are so dark, I just got them and am trying to figure out how to tastefully add some light. pinstadiums seem a bit much...

#11794 3 years ago

I may be in the minority but I like the fact that WOZ is dark. I have dimmable can lights above my machines so I can light it up more if needed but I really like the dark mysterious look of the game

#11795 3 years ago
Quoted from Jecco74:

Where can I find out about the "Wet Metheod"?

#11796 3 years ago

We finally finished our Wizard of Oz topper. Because it is a hologram, it does not video well, and it looks 10 times better in person. It comes with over twice the video then I have on this video, we just take a selection of 8 to show it off. You can have any videos play, all of them or just the ones that you choose. Our Hologram toppers were award the best now mod at the 2019 Chicago Expo. We have toppers designed for about 40 games, this topper is designed to install on ANY game and turn on and off with that game. If you later want to transfer this topper from one game to another, we do sell the locations of the video packages for other games. We give a huge amount of information on the sales listing, and this is listed here at Pinside and on our website. It does come with a wall mount and remote if you want to use it as wall art and turn on and off remotely. In about a month we are going to make a hologram package that will have one of the best videos from each of about 60 games if you want to just put a hologram from the games you have and use on the stand or as wall art.

Thanks

#11797 3 years ago

Cool idea! Do they always spin or can you have them face forward?

Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

We finally finished our Wizard of Oz topper. Because it is a hologram, it does not video well, and it looks 10 times better in person. It comes with over twice the video then I have on this video, we just take a selection of 8 to show it off. You can have any videos play, all of them or just the ones that you choose. Our Hologram toppers were award the best now mod at the 2019 Chicago Expo. We have toppers designed for about 40 games, this topper is designed to install on ANY game and turn on and off with that game. If you later want to transfer this topper from one game to another, we do sell the locations of the video packages for other games. We give a huge amount of information on the sales listing, and this is listed here at Pinside and on our website. It does come with a wall mount and remote if you want to use it as wall art and turn on and off remotely. In about a month we are going to make a hologram package that will have one of the best videos from each of about 60 games if you want to just put a hologram from the games you have and use on the stand or as wall art.

Thanks

#11798 3 years ago
Quoted from SLRage:

Cool idea! Do they always spin or can you have them face forward?

Its one of those 3D propeller fan signs. You can put whatever images you want.

#11799 3 years ago

Guys with the green on their tree pops, do you have a link where you bought, Amazon if possible? Thanks

#11800 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Guys with the green on their tree pops, do you have a link where you bought, Amazon if possible? Thanks

Aquarium plastic plants. Find one with leaves that look tree-like.

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