Your picture isn't clear enough for me to tell for sure but it looks like you could solder that back on and hit it with some fresh hot glue or epoxy.

I'll get a better pic tomorrow. I'm sure someone could solder this back on but not me. I can't solder well enough. I know my limits.

From the picture, though a bit grainy when zoomed in, it does indeed look like it was ripped off the board.

I can see bits of solder on the pins and depressions on the solder pads.
Though it looks like surface mount? It could have been cold joints all across the pads. This does sometimes happen.

It also looks like the pins were not set deep enough into the solder well on the pads.

So, it would be easy to rip off a connector from a coldly soldered surface mount pad or a poorly mounted part, really easy.

It can be repaired with a hot air station if you know someone who has one.

Im a bit surprised that this particular connector wasnt a thru hole type for durability.

In my opinion (for what its worth) your part is suffering from weak assembly practice and should be replaced or repaired.

Me too. Didnt realize you have to do both.

Yes, I was using white lithium grease, but this gunks up on me quickly. So I took advise from others and bought superlube. Havent had a chance to use it yet. Pinball maintenance is next week for me while I am off..

Well, it’s been years since I got my machine and have never greased the rods. I suppose it is time to do some preventative greasing. I just ordered some superlube. How much do I apply, and do I apply it to the whole threaded rod, or just in one place and then move the monkey back and forth to work it’s way in?

Be aware that the first time you run it after greasing, that grease will be flung everywhere. I'd put folded cardboard or something around it for the first few test runs.

Source: I got to clean up grease all over my room.

Yes, a little does a long way. Just apply a bit and wipe it off, a thin coat is best.
Putting a little on the witch rod really helps it too.

I don't think it was "ripped off". It likely "fell off" after reseating the connector a few times. Afterall, that's the 1st thing everyone says to do with a wonky crystal ball... "reseat the connector". The glue was probably doing more to keep the connector attached to the board than the so called solder was. Connectors should not be surface mounted like this... And if they are then, cover the entire thing in epoxy so it stays attached. IMHO.
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None of those traces or pads are pulled so anyone decent with soldering iron could have that re-installed in about 15 minutes or less (not counting time for iron to heat up). Do you know any other local pinheads who would solder it for you? Will JJP offer you an exchange if you ship that one back to them? If worst comes to worst and you can't find anyone local I'd repair it for free if you wanted to pay for shipping both directions. I don't have a hot glue gun (my wife used to have one but I haven't seen it in years) so you'd have to re-apply that yourself afterwards. Good luck!

Hey thanks. JJP offered to resolder it for $25+ shipping. They didn't offer an exchange. I probably do know someone who can solder this but hate to bother them with it. I'll ask thanks!

My tin man rollover button rarely registers. It works when I test the switch but it takes a harder push then the other ones. How do I adjust it to be more sensitive then when I adjust the leaf switch? Do I slightly bend the long leaf closet to the playfield down away from the playfield or do I bend the shorter lower leaf up towards the playfield? Or something else all together? Thanks in advance for the help!

I don’t think it matters. I usually do whatever works just to get the round contacts on the leafs closer together but not so close that the switch triggers from the vibration of the flippers. Pinballlife.com sells a nice leaf switch adjustment tool that makes adjusting easier.

The long one should be just touching the rollover button. The shorter one below it close enough so a ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't.

Make any adjustments as close to the leaf blade base where it screws on. The closer you adjust to the end that makes electrical contact you end up driving yourself nuts trying to keep it adjusted.

LTG : )

Much better said than me.

I got my pin blades from pingraffix.

Question. Do you guys wet the backside of them first(if so with what) or just install as is? Also, do you pull entire play field out or just stand upright to install blades?

I mix some dishwasher soap and water and squirt on with a spray bottle. I normally just stand pf upright.

Good luck!

Got them on with no problems. Pretty easy with a helper to hold play field directly upward. They really add to the look. Sorry about pics with glass on. Game needs more GI. Anybody add spot lights and where?

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Needs pinstadiums!

Insert sad face here. Making adjustments, laying mylar down in heavy wear areas, breaking stuff, adding some easy mods, breaking more stuff.....
Actually the screw heads snapped off the mount plate when I tried to take it off to put new pop bumper bodies on. Red loctite is very good at it's job.
Then I tried to take the 1/4 inch extended hex nut off so I could get at the remaining screw body and it snapped off immediately.
If anyone is messing with these pop bumpers be very careful when you try to take the 2 black top mounting plate screws out. They are sealed with what appears to be 271 red loctite and will most likely snap when trying to unscrew them. Probably a slow loosen a little, tighten back, loosen a little more, tighten back, etc... scenario would be prudent.
Now where's Barry's number at..........

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I'm updating a friends Woz with original code. I followed all the steps and burned it to the USB. Has lots of weird file names..Anyone have a pic of what the file should look like on USB. Its an hour drive and I'd like to make sure I have it ready to go

thx

LTG : )

IMG_0429 (resized).JPG

thx...mine has a few extra files.....ok?

woz (resized).PNG

Yes, mine was an older picture.

LTG : )

Steve,
any chance I can get some help ordering some pop bumper parts I broke on my WOZ? I've tried a few extensions at JJP and can't seem to break through today.
Thanks
r/
Mike

Send him a PM in case he doesn't see this. Or try calling Nate at JJP.

LTG : )

Lloyd,
Thanks for responding.. I left some messages including Nate's voice mail. Just a busy one today I guess. No biggie, we'll try again later.
With the shipping stuff thats going on with USPS right now, I'm scared to order anything anyway. ha.
One of my packages recently started out in Virginia and ended up going west instead of north then I get the shipment will be delayed email.
Another one was literally in Boston for delivery then got picked up and rerouted to another state 2 days later. It's nutso.
Anyway, have a good one and thanks for the help as always.
r/
Mike

They might be down again because of the virus or limited to how many in the building. So assembling games likely gets attention over parts.

LTG : )

Getting a constant clicking sound coming from the castle area during some modes - especially multi-balls? Any recommendations on where to start with trouble shooting would be appreciated.

Adding castle doors - kickouts - monkey mechs all work fine during gameplay.

Thx in advance.
Mike

Make sure the castle door switches all read closed when they are closed, especially after a ball hits them once or twice.

And that is where the switch matrix displays goes over my head.

This is what my matrix shows now.

Thx

image (resized).jpg

That looks correct, is your Winkie drop target working properly, raising and dropping when it should?

I believe so - I hit it and goes down etc... only exception was I was “trying” to melt the witch the other day and the target would pop up quickly after I hit it. But, I don’t get to her that often to know the nuances of that mode.

Does not seem to be a switch adjustment as it does not register during shaker or if I tap the side of machine.

I’ll try to replicate it and see if I can grab video of it and post later.

Thx again
Mike

Yes, the drop target will stay up in MTW until you complete enough lit shots, then the target drops and everything turns green except that shot. You then have to hit the ball into the castle VUK behind the drop, it will hold the ball there, drop target raises and the countdown starts for you to hit the ramp and combo it to the witch to melt her. If you miss or the timer runs out it kicks the ball back up to the castle pf and all the shots re-light and you have to start over.

Little late to respond here, but I checked the shooter lane switch, with the ball. It closes the switch and holds it closed.

Could this be a glitch in firmware upload?

Got my order in for some pop bumper parts with Nate from JJP just now. Just wanted to pass along my great experience. Pleasant and extremely helpful as always. I really dig the customer service at JJP and have never had an issue when I called.
I told Nate I was gonna send some business his way. That $29.99 WOZ Playfield Protector Set(PPS)...I finally asked what it is. It's worth the money for the upper playfield and munchkin playfield alone not to mention the entire playfield protector that comes with it. I plan to use both uppers and just store the main playfield protector. It's a heck of a bargain so if you're ordering some WOZ parts I'd throw the PPS in on the order.
Tell Nate that Mike sent you. He'll probably charge me double now for the extra work.
On a side note.
I strongly recommend upgrading any shipping to UPS. Pay the upgrade when your ordering parts or anything for that matter. US Postal service is having a bad one. I've got parts all over the place with no deliveries in sight.
r/
Mike

My guess is that its the Winkie target trying to get put down. I had this problem a while ago.

Test the coil up and down and see if they both work properly. And by down, I dont mean by doing it phsyically. There is a coil to drop the winkie target specifically.

I’ll give it shot in cool tests later tonight - tried to replicate it last night with the video feature on phone ready to go... nothing after 15 games.

Thx

Ill be curious. What you explained with the clicking is exactly what I had happening. Apparently my issue was there from when I bought the game as I didnt even realize the coil went down by itself when the game calls for it. Only after fixing it did I realize it.

Interesting but unless you're playing multi-player games I can't think of any time other than Melt The Witch when the game drops that target for you. Am I missing something?

There are other times. I cannot think of them specifically. I have only gotten to MTW just very recently and have seen the winkie target drop many times before MTW..

But also to mention, those other times never got in the way of the game, which is why I never noticed it before investigating that clicking noise... But, I believe at the end of a game, the winkie target drops.

Wanted to say thanks! I put in the new SSD and installed the code per JJP instructions and $20 later its back up and working 100%

Please share where you purchased your SSD. Was it directly from JJP or aftermarket? Was it a direct replacement?
Just in case I/we ever need one we'll know exactly what to do.
Thanks
r/
Mike

You don’t need to get it from us. As long as it’s 60gb or better 2.5 inch most will work. I’ve purchased drives on Amazon and at Walmart and other places. If you’d prefer a programmed one from JJP that is an option also.

You make a full install stick and use the game to program it.

Good morning Steve. Thanks for the speedy response.
r/
Mike

Morning Mike. Thanks. Steve

I found some posts about this issue but not sure if it’s the same fix or not. Both of the witch switched #57 and 58 are stuck open. If I switch test it they both work well if it push on the top part of the black strike plate but if I push in on the bottom part where the ball hits nothing happens. I saw LTGs posts about loosening up the 4 screws to adjust the mounting position of the switches below the playfield but I can’t seem to move it back as the small green witch lightboard is butted up against it. I even saw where someone notched out that lightboard to accommodate this. Can anyone tell me if this is what I need to do so that when the bottom part of the black strike plate registers a hit? If so what do you use to cut into the lightboard without messing this up. Below is a pic of one of the switches up against the lightboard. Lastly, what size are these tiny nuts that hold the switch? Thanks so much in advance!

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Yep, I'm close to computer illiterate and it was relatively easy for me. Installed a blank 60gb SSD in place of the old one then put in the USB with the full install on it per the great instructions on JJP's site, flip the game on and it does the rest itself. Thanks for making it easy!

I just checked all the cool tests and only drop target test is putting it back (up) - not dropping it.