The trim is ugly and they removed features while jacking up the price. I would believe that it was a flop. Then again, I wouldnt doubt anything in this hobby where people spend over 1000 for a topper.

I'm sure they have their hands more than full with GNR and prep for Toy Story or whatever is next from Lawlor but if they hit a lull in production, there are parts already sitting on a shelf (surely there have to be some of those YBR playfields and wireforms leftover) and they have any orders or demand for them I could see them cranking out a few more YBRs or RRs. Each one has to be extremely profitable for them at this point. I'm pretty impressed with how this game has held it's value considering all the iterations, quantities produced, etc.

I agree. I wouldn't call the YBR a flop, but the price point has certainly limited its attractiveness.

I could see them running a few more RR versions though. Why not? The demand is still there if you wanted a NIB.

I dont see me selling my ECLEWOZ anytime soon though, I like the wooden apron and clearcoated cabinet.

If they ran RR again do you honestly thing they'd drop the price to below YBR??? I seriously doubt it! If anything it would likely be higher than YBR as they are re-adding the monkey mech...

Didn’t they already rerun RRs after YBR came out at the lower price point, or am I mistaken?

No, I believe you are correct though IIRC there was at least one person who reported the disti who had one available was asking more than MSRP, I think it was $10K. Obviously there are some things on the YBR like the wood apron and radcals on the cabinet that may make it more desirable than the RR but I'll take the Monkey instead please.

I see some folks with the RR Toto on their non RR woz. I also see some folks selling packages with this Toto on eBay

Where can you buy it by itself?

Matt at back alley creations

https://backalleycreations.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods Matt's the man. Lots of other goodies too.

LTG : )

awesome thanks!

Let's have some fun to see who has the better average here -- I know it won't be me. (This only works if you are the primary player on your machine.)

Go into audits and post:

(a) Total number of games played.
(b) Total number of Witch Battles.
(c) Total number of Witch Battle Wins.

Here are mine:

(a) 2447
(b) 130
(c) 7

I thought I was better than I was.

I know that they removed the monkey mech from YBR but are there other features they removed? Thanks.

The right side door on the castle is gone as well. But you could say this is related to the Monkey Mech.

Got my game in July
My audits:
(a) Total number of games played.
(b) Total number of Witch Battles.
(c) Total number of Witch Battle Wins.

(a) 745
(b) 18
(c) 2

Went to check my audits to play along and....dead as a door nail. Zip nada.

I made sure it was plugged into a functioning outlet. Check

Checked for power at the service outlet. Nothing.

Looking at the cabinet wiring diagram. It looks like the service outlet is ahead of the first fuse (next to the service outlet which also tested fine).

Is there something in the line filter box that could’ve blown and disrupted power there?

Back of the cabinet on the outside. Be sure the power cord is shoved in tight.

LTG : )

I gotta be honest. I can't imagine why you'd want a neutered machine. The monkey mech is one of those cool mechanical pinball moments (that leads to another cool pinball moment (released from the castle).

Monkey is cool, but YBR is cool too. The sparkle on the playfield etc.. another gorgeous game. Wish I had a RR/YBR/ECLE right next to each other.

All woz models are stunning, but imo the rr is the best overall package, followed closely by the ecle. The ybr is pretty, but the Monkey and castle door release is a moment that I would miss on the ybr. Plus, the price on the ybr for less features is pushing it. The sparkles are great, but not $2000 great compared to the RR. Just my opinion. All are awesome in the end.

I’m looking for the witch smoke mod if anybody wants to sell, or if anybody is upgrading to the 2.0 model. Pm me. Thanks

The tutorial video of Eric playing this game was really helpful. I actually just melted the witch for the first time ever (which was awesome) and also almost broke 1 million. Best ever for me who isn't very good. Thanks

Last I seen the New RR was 10.5-11k

The rerun of RR’s from the fall 2019 build were sold for $10,500.

Still listed as MSRP of $9500 on the JJP site but if you try to add one to your cart you get the "item is no longer available" response.

I am definitely the main player but I have hosted leagues and the children always gravitate to WOZ during holiday parties. Excuses aside I thought I had better numbers than this too! Sure seems like I've beaten her more than 37 times, it's such a rush that I usually suck at the MB that follows because of it.

a) 2007
b) 242
c) 37

Those numbers are pretty good.

I think the MB is one of the more brutal ones out there. Only two balls, short ball saver, and just so so much pressure.

Well if we're gonna explain the low numbers I can too. About 40-45% of the games played are my gf and she has never started the witch battle. 5-10% are friends/family and they also never started the witch battle.

Hey, I like a good excuse as much as the next guy but that means you've only play about 340 games on your own WOZ? Clearly you need to step up your number of attempts!!

Ok. So after many months of troubleshooting. I’m looking for any input/assistance to help.

Problem: one of my speaker lines cuts in and out through the game. Results in major volume swings up and down.

Solutions so far:
*replaced rca speaker lines with high end monster cables. No change
*replaced the in line sound filters. No change
*inspected sound board. Just to make sure re-flowed solder. No change

With the backglass off, I have swapped the input RCA cables from the back of each speaker. It then makes that specific speaker cut in and out.

I’m trying to figure out a way to have the game on, playfield lifted, and wiggle the sound cables to figure out what is the problem. Any ideas on how to do this?

RR 75th build date 10/2014

The issue is intermittent but does occur during every game. Sometimes is triggered during multiball. The sound is moderate then multiball makes is super loud. Then changes during multiball. So don’t think it’s a software glitch. Definitely feel something with sound board. New board is $150 but I have no idea if that will fix the problem.

Thanks in advance

Remove the ground loop isolator?

Had something similar on my ECLE and it was a bad connection (3.5mm plug) on a filter. Put it in test mode and play a continuous soundtrack loop. While it's playing start wiggling all the audio connectors. You should be able to find the source of the bad connection.

340 in 20 weeks is 17 games a week. I play every day but have 5 other games(well 6 counting the extra P2K pf) that I also feel the need to play every day, especially JPLE. That and WOZ are the only 2 I haven't beat yet. And I mean the super duper wizard mode not the intermediate ones (like melt the witch).

My HS is 2.4M on WOZ and 2.1B on JP. Not world class but not bad either

Thanks Lloyd that was it. Must’ve gotten tugged somehow.

Okay - back to the original mission of playing the audits game:

Games played: 932
Witch battles: 155
Witch battle wins: 24

Pretty much it’s just me and my nine year old playing. I’d say a good third to half of those witch battle wins belong to my kid!

I bypassed the ground loop isolator. No change. I’ve swapped all the 3.5mm cables. No change. My thoughts are a bad connection on the audio board. Since mine is a 2014 build the computer is under the playfield. That’s where I’m having issues trying to mess with the connections with the game on.

I’ll keep working on things. I know I will have to have the machine on and wiggle the connections to narrow down my issue. Will report back after the weekend when I have more time.

Thanks

needing a backglass for ecle, anybody know where to find one?

JJP has them

I bought nib RR WOz in November 2019 for $9500. Distro did not over charge me so I bought GnR from him as well. Now we will see how long it takes to get this game time will tell

i went to website, under parts and woz, nothing there.

There's No place Like Home backglass is in stock for sure, 60-000003-01 part number

Best call then if you don't see it on the website.

LTG : )

Had a few hours to work on the game today. Was able to put machine in test sound mode and lift playfield to get to the sound board. Determined to be a bad RCA input on the board. Replaced that and solved the speaker cutting in/out issue. Still had the volume raising and lowering during game play. Reset software and restored defaults to volume options. 2 games played and so far perfect. Holding out hope it’s fixed. Love this game.

Are you running the current code?

Yes. 7.02

Hi all. I recently picked up a 75th RR. Very happy with it, but it needs a software update. I need to do a full install and I'm having trouble creating the bootable USB. Has anyone had success recently doing this with Unetbootin on a MAC? The process runs (very quickly) but nothing appears on the USB. Everything I have tried so far has not worked. Any advice? Are there any other programs/apps I can try? Thanks.

Could anyone tell me what I need to do to get my ball working again? I bought the game used from the 1st owner and the ball was always "wonky". Someone (maybe JJP?) had put a bit of glue on top of this connector which appears to be the only thing holding the connector to the pad on the PCB. You can see the tiny bit of glue still on one part of the connector. The little "legs" on the connector aren't secure in the black connector. They slide in or out of the black piece. The legs are obviously not soldered on to the PCB like I'd expect them to be. They're just sitting there waiting for the glue to fail... which happened from me trying to reseat the cable one too many times. It keeps falling off.
IMG_20201202_194933 (2) (resized).jpg

The legs are supposed to be soldered in. The glue is to help it from shaking loose in shipping or due to vibration. Carefully solder the pins onto the board. If needed JJP has replacements but you may be okay.

I am lucky if I can solder a coil wire and even then, I end up with more solder dripped onto the cabinet floor than on the wires! LOL. I sure as heck can't solder these tiny feet onto the tiny pads on the PCB.

It appears that they were NEVER even soldered at the factory?!

JJP Part Number 17-000001-00
Display Name/Code 17-000001-00 0.96" OLED Screen

Email [email protected]

This is why JJP tech support is ridiculously awesome. Do you think you'd ever see a Stern rep pop in with part numbers and their contact info?

I used a mac laptop. Try a different (larger) thumb drive.

I had the same problem but switching portable drives made it work.