My biggest boost in score was my bonus and also I stacked haunted multiball with emerald city mb, crystal ball mb and rescue. I went from about 600k to 1.9 mil in a matter of two minutes. That's right, I got all the haunted modes and only had 600k. So things got out of hand score wise quickly.

Not sure how many I got. I got two for yellow brick roads collected and another one that I cannot remember what for. So 6 balls total (3 plus 3 ebs). 20 to 25 minute game, maybe.

The secret is getting as many different colored horses and you can in a single ball and then getting as many munchkin modes as possible and doing well in them. Big time bonus. I've gotten 600 to 800k bonuses before. Just gotta make sure your horses are all completely different or the same before you collect them.

I never was good at collecting the horses, guess that is something to work on. I posted on this before but when you have a killer game it would be nice for it to record gems/jewels you collected.

The collect horse shot is exceedingly difficult, for a reason — it is very powerful. The best I’ve done at it is during MB, if you have two balls cradled on the right flipper, a quick flip can send one up and through to collect.

Navystan, reporting back for duty...

I redid "greasing the Monkey," based on recommendations from this forum. I originally used white lithium, but it didn't seem to help as much as I hoped. Plus, the noise level was still pretty high. This time, I followed "pinballinreno" and "LTG" and other recommendations. I first cleaned with Naptha and then used Superlube. Now, it appears to work smoother and more quietly. Gotta "grease the Monkey" the right way!

I have to ask cause I haven't seen them before... Where did you find the scarecrow, tinman, and lion dressed in the Winkie uniforms? And where are the munchkin girls from?

Looks great! Like mine, you have all 3 of Steve's mods and the OZ lane mod by Loir.

Just got a WoZ RR manufacture date 2015. #392 being shipped. Does anyone know if this version came with Invisiglass and shaker? Thanks.

I believe all RR versions had both. Mine did.

This is correct.

Yes to both. I bought mine nib, 12-2014, #34. Gotta be the same run, the first. You will love it. I had to get a manual made. It comes with a DVD.

Since I'm getting this NIB RR, I want to lay down mylar in the trouble spots. Are there any pre cut pieces for the trouble areas? If not, where's the best place to get large pieces? Thanks.

JJP has a precut mylar set if it isnt installed already.

It should be already installed.

Generally all you need is mylar beween the pop bumpers and anywhere the ball drops from a wireform.

So, "pops and drops".

you have castle doors mod, must have!

Thanks. It's the pops I was most concerned about. Does JJP have these precut for these locations of the pin?

Earliest versions of RRs did not include shaker, invisiglass or a printed manual, those became standard when they raised the price. I'd have to go back and search my posts for when exactly that was but mine is a July 15 build and I (#394 for what that's worth) had to add them to my order at the that time. They raised the price shortly after that.

Mine has mylar everywhere you need it installed from the factory.

Sounds like I will likely have to add glass and shaker since mine is earlier than yours.

The shsker is awsome.

More so than the invisiglass imho.

Awesome job at thinking outside the box so to speak. Great job with finish work and mounting them, definitely adds another layer of “wow” factor. Thanks for sharing the in depth info as well.

Does anybody know how many time passed between the releases of the different versions of WOZ chronologically?

The order is something like this?

WOZ
WOZ RR
WOZ ECLE
(WOZ automated green?)
WOZ 75th
WOZ YELLOW

Which one you consider the best version? for me is the ECLE

ECLE was first
WOZ standard began after so many ECLE were built and both ran together
75th anniversary started the following year after July
(75th and RR are two names for the same game not different models)
Automated greens and more standards were done while 75ths were running
Yellow Brick Road was last (Much later After Hobbit and other games)

I like the early runs with the direct print cabinets. All the BS with the light boards. I would rather have the original boards over the 2.0 boards. There's no comparison with the brightness and the color. It's better just to keep your original boards going.

I bought the 2.0 upgrade for my ECLE, but hopefully will never have to install it. It’s a beautiful game as is.

Until one flakes out in the middle or league night, or in the middle of an EPIC game where you're close to SWOTR and you have to shut the game down because it affects every other light down-stream making the game unplayable.

With all due respect. Then you replace it or you fix it and you move on. Any of these games could break in the middle of something epic.

This topic has been discussed to death, but there are those that had very few problems and those that had a lot. I had multiple boards fail every winter. Simply keeping the old boards going wasn’t really a very good solution long term.

I'm still stuck below 1 million so I've been training more on getting Horse collect.
My main problem is still the chaos during the Emerald multiball, I can't keep an eye on the mini playfield without losing the balls on the playfield.

What's your technique to keep an eye on everything ? I know it's a broad question but I'm still trying to control the panic.

If you have balls on one of the mini playfields and balls on the main playfield, focus on the mini. You’ll be able to see, with your peripheral vision, when the balls on the main playfield get near your flippers so not so hard to keep them in play, though you won’t really be able to aim your shots that way.

Really getting points is all about stacking. Try as much as possible to get a MB going with a munchkin mode and with a 2x crystal ball mode.

I was reading through the thread for tips on the haunted forest shot and not seeing much. Then I was looking around the settings and say this: Bumper Kill Availability. This should be a huge help being able to turn off the bumpers once the collect is lit. Didnt know this was possible!

20201011_134806 (resized).jpg

Correct. Often if a haunted mode is ready, you can hold both flippers on the plunge and get it in there. Otherwise, it is just a matter of timing when the ball is in the bumpers.

Anyone know if JJP will make more ruby reds?

^
add me to that list.

I've had this a couple of times since getting my ECLE a few weeks ago.

I didn't have a keyboard handy, so I tried rebooting. It just was a black screen on the 2nd attempt (stayed for over 10 mins before I shut it down). I left it and came back and it booted up normally.

I presume the BIOS settings are resetting, and guess it's due to a failing button battery? Is this a known issue? Thanks!

IMG_1049 (resized).jpg

I think this has been discussed to death but what is the deal with Monkey Magnet sensor switch D06?

My monkey picks up the ball and drops it at the castle correctly. No problem with how it's supposed to play.

The problem is the actual error. Why does my game show a bad switch error when everything works fine?

Is anyone familiar with this?

B-21 in the manual. There is a test for the monkey sense switch.

LTG : )

Yep, replace the battery on the CPU, I believe the process is covered in the manual and they recommend you use tape to prevent dropping the battery on the board potentially shorting something out.

I've checked the monkey magnet sensor switch during test.

It doesn't appear to visually trigger on the LCD display during the test when I roll a ball. Only two of the three squares go green when the ball rolls past. And I get an error at bootup indicating a bad switch D-06.

But during a game, (after qualifying by hitting the blue targets,) the top magnet will 98% catch the ball correctly, and the monkey will always grab it and carry it to the castle and release it up there. Works like it should.

I'd like to know why it shows a bad switch error. How do I fix it so I don't see the error message?

Remove the magnet sensor and flip it in the opposite direction. If the chips face out, face them in (or vice versa.) This fixed the switch error for me.

This looks like it fixed it. Thanks.

It took a few flips of the sensor board, but the error is gone.

That makes 3 machines I know of fixed in this way including mine

Here are all the hints I gathered to check and adjust the monkey sense switch.
LTG : )

http://www.pinplay.com/20/winged_monkey_misbehaving_wont_pick_up_the_ball_or_picks_up_nothing.html

Prop the playfield up at the front so the ball will rest on the monkey
magnet. This way you don't have to try and hold the ball on the magnet
while initiating the test. Go into tests, Top Lane Magnet Sensor Test.
Close the coin door or enable power to the coils with the interlock
switch. Place the ball on the magnet and press enter. You should see the
Monkey Magnet Sense switch activate when the magnet turns on.
_____________________________________________________________________________

I had a Non-working sensor, which in turn gave me a error dot/report on the LCD (lower right corner/red square).

I flipped the board over (circuit board turned in) and then got a over-sensitive (working) reading.

I then started moving the board to different locations to try to find a working one (circuit board still tuned inward)

After moving the board to 3-4 different locations I came across this one that seems to work great (see pictures)

WARNING: when testing the magnet gets VERY HOT rather quickly while in test mode. I personally would suggest backing out of the menu (one layer) and unplugging the sensor in between adjustments.

WARNING #2:
If you are unsure of just how hot your magnet is, AT YOUR OWN RISK, touch it, if it burns your finger/hand you should probably back out of the test menu for about 10 minutes or so to let it cool down.

Remember, a hot magnet may give a bad reading.
__________________________________________________________________

My Monkey Magnet Sensor was also not working after upgrading to 4.0. All it needed was for the magnet to be flipped.

1) lift up the playfield all the way
2) unscrew the 3 screws holding the monkey magnet. there is no need to unplug anything.
3) carefully remove the magnet housing and center pole and you will see the donut shaped magnet
4) remove the magnet off the pole and flip it over and reinstall
_____________________________________________________________________

To test the Monkey switch, you need to test it with and without a ball. If you go into the monkey magnet test (under device tests), you can hit the start button to activate the magnet. The switch should NOT be active when this happens. In the test, you should see the box for the magnet active, but not the switch. Then, hit the start button again, but this time with a ball on the magnet(easy to test this by having the playfield pulled up and on the first rail position). Now, your monkey magnet detect switch should be active along with the magnet. This switch will only ever activate if there is an active magnet present. Just putting a ball next to it won't do anything. Some of the games were built before this mode was fully vested out, so the switches may not be calibrated in the right position, and could use adjustment.

If your switch is always active when the magnet is on, you will need to re-position the switch. Try holding it in a place you can mount it, and try the magnet with and without a ball on it to see if it trips the way it should (only with a ball on it). Once you find a good spot, screw it back down and test it again.

Another complication is that the switch is a Hall Effect sensor, and will only sense a certain magnetic field orientation. If the big magnet underneath the playfield is not North South relative to the playfield, your hall effect sensor will not register. Because the magnet can be mounted in either direction, and there is no indication, there are a couple things you can do to make sure yours is correct, or simple ways to change it. Easiest thing to do is just flip the monkey magnet detect board over (so the hall effect, resistor, and connector are now away from the panel instead of against it, or vice-verse).

MSS (resized).jpg

Question or thoughts from the "team" including "LTG." I have noticed that JJP is starting to limit the mechanical "toys." First noticed with latest iteration of WoZ YBR and now with GnR. (I'm in on a CE!). First, the most recent WoZ version doesn't have the Flying Monkey. Then, if you noticed, there are no mechanical "toys" in GnR. Everything is essentially static, even the light rods which are great innovation. You could argue the spotlights are mechs, but if they don't work, the game can still be played. I can clearly see how this was a great business decision. Less things to go wrong, especially for games on route, but even easier for home users to do less maintenance. All a far cry from original WoZ and POTC which had almost too many mechs to break down or have issues.

So, I'm not complaining, but just observing. I think it's a good business strategy for JPP and looks like GnR is proving they can balance the use of toys and overall enjoyment of a game.

Yeah, the first jjps (especially woz, dialed in and potc) were loaded down. It may not be a terrible idea to get away from too many mechs, especially if you wish to route any of these.

I have to admit. I like my monkey mech but like most mechs for me, the wow factor goes away after awhile in the home environment. It being a fun shooter with a good layout and interesting modes can make up for cool toys, which will have the lasting appeal. Don't get me wrong, cool mechs. still can wow me today. It is where pinball can shine for a casual player.

I'm not in the design or decision process.

One thing. My opinion. That might come into play.

Designer has a great idea for a mech. They try to make it. Then try to bullet proof it. Border line can do or can't do. They stick it in anyway. Then frustrate the beejeebers out of the owner trying to work on it, tech support trying to help, and parts department keeping up with warranty demands.

Again my opinion only. But I think when there is something in there. It will be more bullet proof. And easier to work on if ever need be.

Time will tell.

LTG : )

Noticed anything odd in this picture?

IMG_3205 (resized).jpeg

Person taking the picture has skinny legs ?

LTG : )