Quoted from Navystan:

I think I'm as close the the wood as possible. Hopefully, there is still some room to adjust. If not, bend the plate tab more?

Quoted from Navystan:

Anyone install the illuminated Winkie target mod? Like it? Worth installing?

Quoted from Navystan:

Navystan, reporting back to duty...
Castle Door Journey
- Been working the door issues for the past few weeks.
Background
- When I first got the machine, it seemed to be working, but noticed the right door stayed open occasionally.
- Other Pinsiders suggested the common issues be looked at. 1) set screws not tight enough; 2) latch needed adjustment; 3) weak or bad right motor.
- When I took off the first time, I had to add a 2-wire/pin Molex. Apparently, the older Woz machines didn't have this Molex connector.
- Upon examining the right door, I added new set screws, the Allen head style to permit easier tightening. After reassembling, the right door stopped working. So, the door actually got worse. Don't know if it was coincidence, or if was just binding more, or motor power was getting worse.
- I ordered 4 new motors from JJP and all did not have capacitors installed.
Saturday Work day
- I spent about 4 hours working on the castle doors.
- Since I have now taken the castle playfield off so many times, I now can remove in less than 10 minutes.
- I removed the door assembly from the the castle playfield for the first time. Took off doors first and discovered the common problem of the bottom right screw was worn away. Luckily, I was able to get a small vise wrench around the screw to loosen and remove. (see pictures)
- I removed the right motor only since I didn't want to change out left motor until I have new capacitors. Had a little problem "melting" solder from the lugs. Don't know if my soldering unit is going bad, since in the past it worked pretty solidly. So, I had to cut away existing wire from the motor terminals. I also could not "melt" the solder along side the motor for the capacitor, so I had to cut that off as well. Barely had enough room to resolder back to the new motor.
- While I had the motor off the assembly, a friend recommend I test with a 9 volt battery. I tried to test with a 9 volt battery while still attached the the castle playfield, but neither left or right door would move with the battery (yes, I moved latch away). However, once the motor was off the mechanism, the battery did successfully turn the motor on. The new motor seemed to sound louder (more power?) then the old one.
- While I had the assembly apart, I had a closer look at the plate that is located near the latch the holds the doors closed. As some had suggested, this plate bends over time causing the doors not to open. I did notice mine was slightly impacting the latch clearing from the tabs, so I pushed it in a little before putting back together.
- So, to summarize what I did before restarting the game, I replaced the right castle door motor, used the existing capacitors, and bent the metal plate that impacts the latch that it used to keep doors closed.
- After restarting the WoZ, I went to test mode, and tested opening and closing doors. Both doors opened when test buttons were used.
- After running test mode, went to game play. As soon as I hit the doors, the stayed partially open. I turned off game and noticed when I pushed the doors with my fingers, both doors pushed past the latch with minimal effort. So, bending the plate apparently was too much.
- I took off castle playfield and could clearly see how latch was barely holding doors from opening. I tweaked right door by lowering the door down (as you look from the top) by adjusting the set screws on the post. When I did this, it also helped the left door. It now seemed light pressure by hand did not permit the doors to push through the latch. So, I stopped here and didn't try to bend the metal plate like I did earlier.
- I retested and pressed on the doors by hand to see if the doors would push open past the latch. They seemed to be strong enough to resist light pressure by hand, so I went to test by game play.
- During gameplay, it was a lot better. However, occasionally, the right door still partially opened. It would either reset after hitting a few times or at the end of a ball leaving the mini playfield (game reset).
- One other oddity happened one time. I noticed the crystal ball came up with an error message. However, after restarting the game, it was back to normal. I did nothing more than just restart the game.
Conclusion/Questions
- I need the get these capacitors. (See pictures). I looked at Great Plains Electronics, but didn't see the number on his site. Anyone know where I can get these and what part# I should be looking for?
- For my final adjustment to right door, bend plate a little more? I'm not going to take off again until I get the new capacitors and will replace the one I just did and likely just go ahead and change left door motor as well.
- My soldering skills need a little work. I had a hard time getting solder to "stick" to the side of motor. Use some flux? I saw others file down to scuff, so maybe that's all I need to do.
- Thanks for everyone's help and tips on the castle doors. Pinside users are super for helping the community.
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Quoted from Navystan:

Posted on old thread, but thought I would post here for others to find....
I followed your (pinballinreno) tip (thank you for all your tips and ideas for working the castle door issues). I lowered the castle playfield flipper power from 12 (normal) to 9. Still can make all the shots and it ensures the ball doesn't hit the doors too hard. In my case, the weight of the ball at normal power (12) was causing door to "jump" over the latch and cause right door to open partially. As you have said, the latch and doors seem to work best when doors are at different heights. But, I had already lowered the right door as far as possible without touching the wood. I will check the return spring to make sure it's not rubbing on the latch as others have suggested.
As a matter of fact, it might be good for most users to lower power to minimize the wear and tear on the doors and the systems that control the doors.
So, for now I'm finally 100% on the doors. Now I can add some of the standard mods.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

My castle power is also at 9.
Good catch. I forgot about high power causing difficulties.
One last thing for games with a few thousand plays like mine:
The black rubber bumper strip inside the latch edge is prone to wear on the right side.
It actually wears at an angle and creates a "ramp" that allows the door stop to slip over the catch.
I just carefully scraped this rubber strip off with a tiny screwdriver, turned it 180 degrees to give it a fresh side, and glued it back on with a couple drops of 5 min epoxy.
This worked exceptionally well.
I have since ordered spares from JJP but the adhesive is so poor, i still epoxied it on.
If you have gone to all the trouble of rebuilding this mech, and got it working perfectly, its worth inspecting this last item.

Quoted from FatPanda:

I will have to order some then. Thanks!

Quoted from DCFAN:

These are good for WOZ spotlights:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/opmax-12v

Quoted from FatPanda:

Is it a threaded rod that should go there?

Quoted from FatPanda:

So my witch doesn't move up or down. I go to investigate and it looks like I'm missing a shaft that goes into her back and down through the motor? I have no reference what it should be like working. What do I need to get her going again?
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Quoted from FatPanda:

Is it a threaded rod that should go there?

Quoted from Yelobird:

I’m a bit curious how you loose the shaft?? Did you just notice she wasn’t moving?

Quoted from FatPanda:

My son was playing and he had the witch hurry up. I noticed that she was still hiding. I bought this second hand, so I reached out the the previous owner to see if they remember working on it.
So should it be threaded like the winged monkey mech?

Quoted from Yelobird:

Not my post but check out the HH thread. He shows the assembly and disassembled process in a video. That should help you identify where the part is or if it’s missing. Good luck.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-woz-flaming-witch-with-realistic-fire-mod-development/page/4#post-5465552

Quoted from FatPanda:

That is helpful. Thank you!

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Put a little silicone grease on the threaded rod.
Same as the mokey rod.

Quoted from FatPanda:

Did that with the monkey rod, since it was making noises and when I inspected it, it was a little gummed up.. The grease worked like a charm. I didnt do it with the witch rod since it didn't seem like that rod had grease on it.

Quoted from Navystan:

Anyone install the illuminated Winkie target mod? Like it? Worth installing?

Quoted from Rager170:

Whats up with all the broken castle door motors lately??

Quoted from Rager170:

Yes, its awesome! I have the red one.

Quoted from zaphX:

I wondered that myself!

Quoted from LukyDuck:

Wow, nice write up. I am now hoping that I never have door issues after reading all of the recent posts.

Quoted from Rager170:

Yes, its awesome! I have the red one.

Quoted from FatPanda:

Where does the light tie into?

Quoted from FatPanda:

Where does the light tie into?

Quoted from pinballinreno:

It taps into a nearby GI light.
Comet has nice adapters for their matrix line if you want to do it yourself.
You can get a translucent drop target now ftom Zitt.
Use the spare sticker from the goody bag.
Total price about $10

Quoted from FatPanda:

I was definitely thinking about doing a DIY light. I will have extra 12V bulbs from replacing/adding the spotlights to my game, so could easily tap off of the spotlight as well and mount a socket underneath. I know Pinball Life sells translucent drop targets that appear to be the same but I will see what Zitt has.
With that said, I might just keep it simple and go with another spotlight pointing towards that area. Will be cheaper and simpler

Quoted from pinballinreno:

My castle power is also at 9.
Good catch. I forgot about high power causing difficulties.
One last thing for games with a few thousand plays like mine:
The black rubber bumper strip inside the latch edge is prone to wear on the right side.
It actually wears at an angle and creates a "ramp" that allows the door stop to slip over the catch.
I just carefully scraped this rubber strip off with a tiny screwdriver, turned it 180 degrees to give it a fresh side, and glued it back on with a couple drops of 5 min epoxy.
This worked exceptionally well.
I have since ordered spares from JJP but the adhesive is so poor, i still epoxied it on.
If you have gone to all the trouble of rebuilding this mech, and got it working perfectly, its worth inspecting this last item.

Quoted from apinballwiz:

Is that strip called double door stop pad?

Quoted from pinballinreno:

yes, i believe so.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Still possible to find these NIB?

Quoted from joseph5185:

Hey all,
Still possible to find these NIB?
Is it worth it?
I still only own two pins, AFMrLE and POTCce ... i would LOVE to make this a 3rd pin.
I STILL think it's the most beautiful pin ever produced...
Thnx!

Quoted from zaphX:

I think you can, if you're into the YBR version. No monkey, but many other advantages (radcals, newer tech, etc). I still love that version, but ended up getting an ECLE instead due to cost.

Quoted from joseph5185:

I like the yellow

Quoted from LTG:

You have to see it in person. The yellow metal sparkles, glitter or something in it. The side rails, lockdown bar, art work on apron, and yellow brick road on the playfield. Looks pretty. Pictures don't do it justice.
LTG : )

Quoted from fnosm:

Thank god the monkey is missing or all of our Red & Greens would have lost $value.

Quoted from defonze88:

In need of some Help. Lowered the back box and ripped out a bunch of harnesses. I also removed power supply to reinstall pins thought I took good pictures
and no idea were the power supply wires go Below the silver box I reconnected the audio board. If anyone has pictures of the connectors I would appreciate it thanks,

Quoted from zaphX:

What model is your WOZ? It will differ if it’s a YBR.

Quoted from Pinforlife:

Completed a slight mod, bad thing is emerald city gets covered more... if your interested it’s cheap to do. Little rolled cotton and a lighter to smooth the fuzz and add contour. Definitely adds another layer imho lol.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Pinforlife:

Completed a slight mod, bad thing is emerald city gets covered more... if your interested it’s cheap to do. Little rolled cotton and a lighter to smooth the fuzz and add contour. Definitely adds another layer imho lol.
[quoted image]