(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

10 years ago


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#11151 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I really wasnt being sarcastic. I dont think ive ever noticed gems in this game?

They are actually called jewels and they are awarded for certain major tasks (melting the witch, collecting all the awards from the wizard, completing RecueMB, etc.) you have to collect all of them to get to SWOTR which is the final wizard mode. The map on how to collect them and progress towards collecting them is shown during attract mode and can be seen in instant info by holding down a flipper button in game.

#11152 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

They are actually called jewels and they are awarded for certain major tasks (melting the witch, collecting all the awards from the wizard, completing RecueMB, etc.) you have to collect all of them to get to SWOTR which is the final wizard mode. The map on how to collect them and progress towards collecting them is shown during attract mode and can be seen in instant info by holding down a flipper button in game.

oh gotcha, thank you. No wonder ive never seen them haha.

#11153 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

oh gotcha, thank you. No wonder ive never seen them haha.

You've certainly seen at least one or two of them that are relatively easy to earn towards Melt the Witch mini-wizard mode.

#11154 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

You've certainly seen at least one or two of them that are relatively easy to earn towards Melt the Witch mini-wizard mode.

I dont think ive ever done the melt the witch minimode.

#11155 3 years ago

Ok so curious. To get to the Witch in this game, you have to:

-Get Emerald City Multiball
-Get Rescue Multiball
-Get Munchkin Mode
-Get Fireball Frenzy

Is that correct? Do you have complete these modes?

#11156 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Ok so curious. To get to the Witch in this game, you have to:
-Get Emerald City Multiball
-Get Rescue Multiball
-Get Munchkin Mode
-Get Fireball Frenzy
Is that correct? Do you have complete these modes?

Holding the left flipper button during a game gives you the status screen with emeralds acheived and a map of accomplishments.

These look like roads that lead to the witch battle.

#11157 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Holding the left flipper button during a game gives you the status screen with emeralds acheived and a map of accomplishments.
These look like roads that lead to the witch battle.

Gotcha, thanks. Its pretty sad that ive had it for over a year now and havent done this. Now its my mission haha.

I feel like theres so much going on, that when I get it going, I lose focus on what I am supposed to be shooting at to move forward with the mode.

#11158 3 years ago

Melting the Witch mode is an very obtainable wizard mode which is great to play. So much it is usually my goal when I press the start button. It is very similar to LOTR’s Destroy the Ring.

#11159 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Ok so curious. To get to the Witch in this game, you have to:
-Get Emerald City Multiball
-Get Rescue Multiball
-Get Munchkin Mode
-Get Fireball Frenzy
Is that correct? Do you have complete these modes?

No, you don't have to complete them or it would be really hard to ever get there.

#11160 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

No, you don't have to complete them or it would be really hard to ever get there.

haha I thought so also.

#11161 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Ok so curious. To get to the Witch in this game, you have to:
-Get Emerald City Multiball
-Get Rescue Multiball
-Get Munchkin Mode
-Get Fireball Frenzy
Is that correct? Do you have complete these modes?

You don’t have to compete them to qualify battle of the wicked witch. You do have to complete them (plus others) to reach somewhere over the rainbow.

#11162 3 years ago

Melt the Witch is one of the best wizard mode / mini wizard modes in pinball. The sounds, images, lighting are all just terrific. And the mode itself is an exhilarating rush. Difficult to complete but not impossible. I melt her a couple of times a year, and finishing the mode is extremely satisfying with well done fan fare.

#11163 3 years ago

Bummer. Just got 4 motors for castle doors. None had capacitors on. So, more work to do.

#11164 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Bummer. Just got 4 motors for castle doors. None had capacitors on. So, more work to do.

I guess move over the old ones, in a pinch.

This really sucks, if you are changing out a motor, you would want a fresh cap on it.

Its got to be a mistake on their part.

#11165 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Bummer. Just got 4 motors for castle doors. None had capacitors on. So, more work to do.

These came from JJP?

#11166 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Melt the Witch is one of the best wizard mode / mini wizard modes in pinball. The sounds, images, lighting are all just terrific. And the mode itself is an exhilarating rush. Difficult to complete but not impossible. I melt her a couple of times a year, and finishing the mode is extremely satisfying with well done fan fare.

I WILL have at least gotten to that mode by the end of the weekend!!

#11167 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

These came from JJP?

Yes, all 4.

#11168 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I WILL have at least gotten to that mode by the end of the weekend!!

Glass off doesn't count

#11169 3 years ago

Hello all, still wearing diapers I’m so new here lol. Just wanted to attempt to join in chats. This place has unbelievable information!! Thought also I would at least throw down a recent mod to see what the thoughts would be.

C7131DFD-51E9-4D7B-AED0-5587723DBCDB (resized).jpegC7131DFD-51E9-4D7B-AED0-5587723DBCDB (resized).jpeg
#11170 3 years ago

Put in your location. It will help down the road.

#11171 3 years ago

anyone have the old mylar printed artwork set? If not, can someone take a picture around the tree pop bumpers and I can make my own? I have wear around one of the tree pop bumpers.

JJP doesn't seem to have in stock any more.

Thanks.

#11172 3 years ago

Followup to my door issue - I successfully completed the motor surgery tonight and WOZ is back to 100%.

My motors did not include capacitors so I migrated the old ones.

A few notes to help others:

- I ordered extra shafts, door screws and set screws just in case and that turned out to be a wise move as I had to drill out the screws holding the doors on, ruining the original shaft. The new set screws and shaft holes are much smaller than the originals. BTW the old set screws are NOT 7/32, they are 7/64.
- Some people reported trouble soldering the capacitors to the new motors - it’s actually simple if you scuff the exterior of the motor with a file first. The solder adheres very nicely in this case.
- I recommend blue locktite on all screws and set screws.

It was one of the bigger pains I’ve had in pinball so far, but I am happy with the result. It’s good to see those doors snap open like they should.

#11173 3 years ago

I have just done exactly the same zaphX but in my case the screws and shaft were all ok. I haven’t quite put it back yet to see if it works, as when I turned the machine on it didn’t boot up - d’oh!
This has happened to me before (the fan runs so the manual way of shorting the pins doesn’t work). The solution for me this time was to reaseat the RAM.
Anyway, back to putting that bloody castle playfield back in and that door better work!

#11174 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its good to have a couple spares.
And spare door posts...
Once you break off a screw in a post you will understand why...
And some spare screws for doors.

I am so glad I listened to this advice. I ordered all the screws, set screws and shafts and used all of it.

#11175 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I am so glad I listened to this advice. I ordered all the screws, set screws and shafts and used all of it.

yep, ordered a bunch also, although didn’t use them this time (except for bottom right door screw) will I’m sure need them down the track

#11176 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I am so glad I listened to this advice. I ordered all the screws, set screws and shafts and used all of it.

Youre welcome!

Yep, its a real PITA to have it all apart and pop the head off an allen screw and ruin a door post.

I have a complete set of door parts and spare motors on hand just in case! Now it seems, spare capacitors too.

Invariably i need something, or broke something lol.

#11177 3 years ago

Joined the club yesterday with a RR! I spent all morning installing (but not finishing) a complete Cliffy set, cleaning and waxing accessible areas, and installing 2 spotlights at the slings. I put Comet wedge flashers in the spotlights, but noticed that both of them got pretty hot. The bulbs have 13V printed on them. I tapped into the light blue/black wires from the Castle spotlight and the spotlight behind the throne saucer. Am I using the right bulb or did I tap into the wires incorrectly? I took the bulbs out in the meantime.

#11178 3 years ago

Also the game plays a little floaty. Do you all have your games jacked up? There is probably a half inch left on the leg levelers in the back.

#11179 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Also the game plays a little floaty. Do you all have your games jacked up? There is probably a half inch left on the leg levelers in the back.

What degree is your playfield pitch?

Im at 6.5 to 6.6 average.

If the game plays too fast the balls fall off the wireforms.

#11180 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What degree is your playfield pitch?
Im at 6.5 to 6.6 average.
If the game plays too fast the balls fall off the wireforms.

Not sure. I made sure it was level right to left. Theres about 1/2" of thread left in the rear levelers.

#11181 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Not sure. I made sure it was level right to left. Theres about 1/2" of thread left in the rear levelers.

Get a digital torpedo level.
Its really a "must have" for dialing in a game.

#11182 3 years ago

I'm also on 6.60 code on my RR. Should I update to 7.02 that is requires for YBR? Will it disable the monkey mech?

#11183 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Get a digital torpedo level.
Its really a "must have" for dialing in a game.

I dont get too bent up on exact pf pitch. I usually go with what "feels right." I tried messing with a clinometer app a time ago and it just wasnt worth the hassle for me.

#11184 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Also the game plays a little floaty. Do you all have your games jacked up? There is probably a half inch left on the leg levelers in the back.

Up the flipper power and raise the pitch a bit. Mine is fast and difficult. Set it to match your taste.

#11185 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I'm also on 6.60 code on my RR. Should I update to 7.02

Read the change log. And yes.

Quoted from FatPanda:

Will it disable the monkey mech?

No.

LTG : )

#11186 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Read the change log. And yes.

No.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd! Would you have an answer to my spotlight question? I need to replace the bulbs on the existing spotlights also and want to order the correct ones.

#11187 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I need to replace the bulbs on the existing spotlights also and want to order the correct ones.

The spot lights are 12 volt. Or should be. Put a meter on it and see if it's 12 volts DC.

No idea why the Comet ones got hot. They shouldn't.

LTG : )

#11188 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The spot lights are 12 volt. Or should be. Put a meter on it and see if it's 12 volts DC.
No idea why the Comet ones got hot. They shouldn't.
LTG : )

That's what I thought. I can check the voltage, but would imagine they wouldn't be any different.

These are the bulbs that I used.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/8smd-flashers

#11189 3 years ago

That is the problem. You used flashers. Spot lights don't flash. Constant power to them is the likely issue.

A flasher get hit occasionally with 20 volts briefly, to flash.

Get 12 volt bulbs or LEDs.

LTG : )

#11190 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

That is the problem. You used flashers. Spot lights don't flash. Constant power to them is the likely issue.
A flasher get hit occasionally with 20 volts briefly, to flash.
Get 12 volt bulbs or LEDs.
LTG : )

I will have to order some then. Thanks!

#11191 3 years ago

Navystan, reporting back to duty...

Castle Door Journey
- Been working the door issues for the past few weeks.

Background
- When I first got the machine, it seemed to be working, but noticed the right door stayed open occasionally.
- Other Pinsiders suggested the common issues be looked at. 1) set screws not tight enough; 2) latch needed adjustment; 3) weak or bad right motor.
- When I took off the first time, I had to add a 2-wire/pin Molex. Apparently, the older Woz machines didn't have this Molex connector.
- Upon examining the right door, I added new set screws, the Allen head style to permit easier tightening. After reassembling, the right door stopped working. So, the door actually got worse. Don't know if it was coincidence, or if was just binding more, or motor power was getting worse.
- I ordered 4 new motors from JJP and all did not have capacitors installed.

Saturday Work day
- I spent about 4 hours working on the castle doors.
- Since I have now taken the castle playfield off so many times, I now can remove in less than 10 minutes.
- I removed the door assembly from the the castle playfield for the first time. Took off doors first and discovered the common problem of the bottom right screw was worn away. Luckily, I was able to get a small vise wrench around the screw to loosen and remove. (see pictures)
- I removed the right motor only since I didn't want to change out left motor until I have new capacitors. Had a little problem "melting" solder from the lugs. Don't know if my soldering unit is going bad, since in the past it worked pretty solidly. So, I had to cut away existing wire from the motor terminals. I also could not "melt" the solder along side the motor for the capacitor, so I had to cut that off as well. Barely had enough room to resolder back to the new motor.
- While I had the motor off the assembly, a friend recommend I test with a 9 volt battery. I tried to test with a 9 volt battery while still attached the the castle playfield, but neither left or right door would move with the battery (yes, I moved latch away). However, once the motor was off the mechanism, the battery did successfully turn the motor on. The new motor seemed to sound louder (more power?) then the old one.
- While I had the assembly apart, I had a closer look at the plate that is located near the latch the holds the doors closed. As some had suggested, this plate bends over time causing the doors not to open. I did notice mine was slightly impacting the latch clearing from the tabs, so I pushed it in a little before putting back together.
- So, to summarize what I did before restarting the game, I replaced the right castle door motor, used the existing capacitors, and bent the metal plate that impacts the latch that it used to keep doors closed.
- After restarting the WoZ, I went to test mode, and tested opening and closing doors. Both doors opened when test buttons were used.
- After running test mode, went to game play. As soon as I hit the doors, the stayed partially open. I turned off game and noticed when I pushed the doors with my fingers, both doors pushed past the latch with minimal effort. So, bending the plate apparently was too much.
- I took off castle playfield and could clearly see how latch was barely holding doors from opening. I tweaked right door by lowering the door down (as you look from the top) by adjusting the set screws on the post. When I did this, it also helped the left door. It now seemed light pressure by hand did not permit the doors to push through the latch. So, I stopped here and didn't try to bend the metal plate like I did earlier.
- I retested and pressed on the doors by hand to see if the doors would push open past the latch. They seemed to be strong enough to resist light pressure by hand, so I went to test by game play.
- During gameplay, it was a lot better. However, occasionally, the right door still partially opened. It would either reset after hitting a few times or at the end of a ball leaving the mini playfield (game reset).
- One other oddity happened one time. I noticed the crystal ball came up with an error message. However, after restarting the game, it was back to normal. I did nothing more than just restart the game.

Conclusion/Questions
- I need the get these capacitors. (See pictures). I looked at Great Plains Electronics, but didn't see the number on his site. Anyone know where I can get these and what part# I should be looking for?
- For my final adjustment to right door, bend plate a little more? I'm not going to take off again until I get the new capacitors and will replace the one I just did and likely just go ahead and change left door motor as well.
- My soldering skills need a little work. I had a hard time getting solder to "stick" to the side of motor. Use some flux? I saw others file down to scuff, so maybe that's all I need to do.
- Thanks for everyone's help and tips on the castle doors. Pinside users are super for helping the community.

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#11192 3 years ago

Anyone install the illuminated Winkie target mod? Like it? Worth installing?

#11193 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

I need the get these capacitors. (See pictures). I looked at Great Plains Electronics, but didn't see the number on his site. Anyone know where I can get these and what part# I should be looking for?

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=5

Contact Ed through his website. Let him know what it's for. He should have something that will work.

LTG : )

#11194 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Navystan, reporting back to duty...
Castle Door Journey
- Been working the door issues for the past few weeks.
Background
- When I first got the machine, it seemed to be working, but noticed the right door stayed open occasionally.
- Other Pinsiders suggested the common issues be looked at. 1) set screws not tight enough; 2) latch needed adjustment; 3) weak or bad right motor.
- When I took off the first time, I had to add a 2-wire/pin Molex. Apparently, the older Woz machines didn't have this Molex connector.
- Upon examining the right door, I added new set screws, the Allen head style to permit easier tightening. After reassembling, the right door stopped working. So, the door actually got worse. Don't know if it was coincidence, or if was just binding more, or motor power was getting worse.
- I ordered 4 new motors from JJP and all did not have capacitors installed.
Saturday Work day
- I spent about 4 hours working on the castle doors.
- Since I have now taken the castle playfield off so many times, I now can remove in less than 10 minutes.
- I removed the door assembly from the the castle playfield for the first time. Took off doors first and discovered the common problem of the bottom right screw was worn away. Luckily, I was able to get a small vise wrench around the screw to loosen and remove. (see pictures)
- I removed the right motor only since I didn't want to change out left motor until I have new capacitors. Had a little problem "melting" solder from the lugs. Don't know if my soldering unit is going bad, since in the past it worked pretty solidly. So, I had to cut away existing wire from the motor terminals. I also could not "melt" the solder along side the motor for the capacitor, so I had to cut that off as well. Barely had enough room to resolder back to the new motor.
- While I had the motor off the assembly, a friend recommend I test with a 9 volt battery. I tried to test with a 9 volt battery while still attached the the castle playfield, but neither left or right door would move with the battery (yes, I moved latch away). However, once the motor was off the mechanism, the battery did successfully turn the motor on. The new motor seemed to sound louder (more power?) then the old one.
- While I had the assembly apart, I had a closer look at the plate that is located near the latch the holds the doors closed. As some had suggested, this plate bends over time causing the doors not to open. I did notice mine was slightly impacting the latch clearing from the tabs, so I pushed it in a little before putting back together.
- So, to summarize what I did before restarting the game, I replaced the right castle door motor, used the existing capacitors, and bent the metal plate that impacts the latch that it used to keep doors closed.
- After restarting the WoZ, I went to test mode, and tested opening and closing doors. Both doors opened when test buttons were used.
- After running test mode, went to game play. As soon as I hit the doors, the stayed partially open. I turned off game and noticed when I pushed the doors with my fingers, both doors pushed past the latch with minimal effort. So, bending the plate apparently was too much.
- I took off castle playfield and could clearly see how latch was barely holding doors from opening. I tweaked right door by lowering the door down (as you look from the top) by adjusting the set screws on the post. When I did this, it also helped the left door. It now seemed light pressure by hand did not permit the doors to push through the latch. So, I stopped here and didn't try to bend the metal plate like I did earlier.
- I retested and pressed on the doors by hand to see if the doors would push open past the latch. They seemed to be strong enough to resist light pressure by hand, so I went to test by game play.
- During gameplay, it was a lot better. However, occasionally, the right door still partially opened. It would either reset after hitting a few times or at the end of a ball leaving the mini playfield (game reset).
- One other oddity happened one time. I noticed the crystal ball came up with an error message. However, after restarting the game, it was back to normal. I did nothing more than just restart the game.
Conclusion/Questions
- I need the get these capacitors. (See pictures). I looked at Great Plains Electronics, but didn't see the number on his site. Anyone know where I can get these and what part# I should be looking for?
- For my final adjustment to right door, bend plate a little more? I'm not going to take off again until I get the new capacitors and will replace the one I just did and likely just go ahead and change left door motor as well.
- My soldering skills need a little work. I had a hard time getting solder to "stick" to the side of motor. Use some flux? I saw others file down to scuff, so maybe that's all I need to do.
- Thanks for everyone's help and tips on the castle doors. Pinside users are super for helping the community.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ebay

See if there is a guitar repar place near you. Fender reverb unit capacitor is the same.

Google the number.
Smaller packages are better.

The tiny blue ones are good.

#11195 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Anyone install the illuminated Winkie target mod? Like it? Worth installing?

Pinsider indypinhead has the one you want.

#11197 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Navystan, reporting back to duty...
Castle Door Journey
- Been working the door issues for the past few weeks.
Background
- When I first got the machine, it seemed to be working, but noticed the right door stayed open occasionally.
- Other Pinsiders suggested the common issues be looked at. 1) set screws not tight enough; 2) latch needed adjustment; 3) weak or bad right motor.
- When I took off the first time, I had to add a 2-wire/pin Molex. Apparently, the older Woz machines didn't have this Molex connector.
- Upon examining the right door, I added new set screws, the Allen head style to permit easier tightening. After reassembling, the right door stopped working. So, the door actually got worse. Don't know if it was coincidence, or if was just binding more, or motor power was getting worse.
- I ordered 4 new motors from JJP and all did not have capacitors installed.
Saturday Work day
- I spent about 4 hours working on the castle doors.
- Since I have now taken the castle playfield off so many times, I now can remove in less than 10 minutes.
- I removed the door assembly from the the castle playfield for the first time. Took off doors first and discovered the common problem of the bottom right screw was worn away. Luckily, I was able to get a small vise wrench around the screw to loosen and remove. (see pictures)
- I removed the right motor only since I didn't want to change out left motor until I have new capacitors. Had a little problem "melting" solder from the lugs. Don't know if my soldering unit is going bad, since in the past it worked pretty solidly. So, I had to cut away existing wire from the motor terminals. I also could not "melt" the solder along side the motor for the capacitor, so I had to cut that off as well. Barely had enough room to resolder back to the new motor.
- While I had the motor off the assembly, a friend recommend I test with a 9 volt battery. I tried to test with a 9 volt battery while still attached the the castle playfield, but neither left or right door would move with the battery (yes, I moved latch away). However, once the motor was off the mechanism, the battery did successfully turn the motor on. The new motor seemed to sound louder (more power?) then the old one.
- While I had the assembly apart, I had a closer look at the plate that is located near the latch the holds the doors closed. As some had suggested, this plate bends over time causing the doors not to open. I did notice mine was slightly impacting the latch clearing from the tabs, so I pushed it in a little before putting back together.
- So, to summarize what I did before restarting the game, I replaced the right castle door motor, used the existing capacitors, and bent the metal plate that impacts the latch that it used to keep doors closed.
- After restarting the WoZ, I went to test mode, and tested opening and closing doors. Both doors opened when test buttons were used.
- After running test mode, went to game play. As soon as I hit the doors, the stayed partially open. I turned off game and noticed when I pushed the doors with my fingers, both doors pushed past the latch with minimal effort. So, bending the plate apparently was too much.
- I took off castle playfield and could clearly see how latch was barely holding doors from opening. I tweaked right door by lowering the door down (as you look from the top) by adjusting the set screws on the post. When I did this, it also helped the left door. It now seemed light pressure by hand did not permit the doors to push through the latch. So, I stopped here and didn't try to bend the metal plate like I did earlier.
- I retested and pressed on the doors by hand to see if the doors would push open past the latch. They seemed to be strong enough to resist light pressure by hand, so I went to test by game play.
- During gameplay, it was a lot better. However, occasionally, the right door still partially opened. It would either reset after hitting a few times or at the end of a ball leaving the mini playfield (game reset).
- One other oddity happened one time. I noticed the crystal ball came up with an error message. However, after restarting the game, it was back to normal. I did nothing more than just restart the game.
Conclusion/Questions
- I need the get these capacitors. (See pictures). I looked at Great Plains Electronics, but didn't see the number on his site. Anyone know where I can get these and what part# I should be looking for?
- For my final adjustment to right door, bend plate a little more? I'm not going to take off again until I get the new capacitors and will replace the one I just did and likely just go ahead and change left door motor as well.
- My soldering skills need a little work. I had a hard time getting solder to "stick" to the side of motor. Use some flux? I saw others file down to scuff, so maybe that's all I need to do.
- Thanks for everyone's help and tips on the castle doors. Pinside users are super for helping the community.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If the door is staying open:

Its slipping past the latch.

The right door has to be lowered 1/64".

The latch will always work slightly canted.

Lower the right door very slightly without it dragging on the wood.

#11198 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Ebay
See if there is a guitar repar place near you. Fender reverb unit capacitor is the same.
Google the number.
Smaller packages are better.
The tiny blue ones are good.

Thanks. This is one on eBay. Look right?

ebay.com link: 25pcs 0 1uF 100nF 50V Ceramic Capacitor 104Z Z5V Free Shipping USA

#11199 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

If the door is staying open:
Its slipping past the latch.
The right door has to be lowered 1/64".
The latch will always work slightly canted.
Lower the right door very slightly without it dragging on the wood.

I think I'm as close the the wood as possible. Hopefully, there is still some room to adjust. If not, bend the plate tab more?

#11200 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Thanks. This is one on eBay. Look right?
ebay.com link » 25pcs 0 1uf 100nf 50v Ceramic Capacitor 104z Z5v Free Shipping Usa

Sure, someone else might have them even cheaper.

Msybe not. It sounds ok

I bought some from ftom digikey for 9 cents each but shipping us high.

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