(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

9 years ago


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#11051 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

So, if I hear the mech, then it's the screw on the latch. If the screw is not tight enough, I assume I could move the right door with my hand, right? I say this because with the game off, I cannot move either the left or right door. Wouldn't that indicate the door is either binding or the motor is dead like LTG said?
Thanks.

No because there is a latch to hold them closed when the ball is bashing them and registering hits, that latch is pulled down by a small coil and then the doors can open / close via the motor. You need to pull the castle PF, it's not as bad as it looks, just be sure to re-attach all connectors and be careful about re-routing all the wires back down when you re-install it.

#11052 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

So, if I hear the mech, then it's the screw on the latch. If the screw is not tight enough, I assume I could move the right door with my hand, right? I say this because with the game off, I cannot move either the left or right door. Wouldn't that indicate the door is either binding or the motor is dead like LTG said?
Thanks.

The door is latched, it won't open manually unless you unlatch it in test mode.

Coil 51 is the latch coil. You will hear a faint click in test, maybe.

Mostly, loose shaft screws is the problem.

When you pull it apart you will see this.

If screws are tight then a motor has burned out.

#11053 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The door is latched, it won't open manually unless you unlatch it in test mode.
Coil 51 is the latch coil. You will hear a faint click in test, maybe.
Mostly, loose shaft screws is the problem.
When you pull it apart you will see this.
If screws are tight then a motor has burned out.

Thanks for the tips. Most likely, I need to take off mini playfield to address the issue.

#11054 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Thanks for the tips. Most likely, I need to take off mini playfield to address the issue.

Some info here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully

#11055 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Thanks for the tips. Most likely, I need to take off mini playfield to address the issue.

Well, I tried the easy steps first:
1. Went into test and ran test for doors.
2. Then went to test coils, 51
3. After doing the above tests, both doors started opening again.
4. Ran a game and everything seemed to work again. So, motors for sure were not burned out. I even ran through monkey ball multiball and it worked fine too.

I guess something got stuck a bit and running through the tests "loosened" it up again?

#11056 3 years ago

Back to "greasing the monkey." I used white lithium grease. However, although the monkey works, it still sounds like it's binding while running. Maybe use a different grease? For other folks, is it quiet in operation or can you hear it while it's in motion? Some say to use superlube. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Thanks.

#11057 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Well, I tried the easy steps first:
1. Went into test and ran test for doors.
2. Then went to test coils, 51
3. After doing the above tests, both doors started opening again.
4. Ran a game and everything seemed to work again. So, motors for sure were not burned out. I even ran through monkey ball multiball and it worked fine too.
I guess something got stuck a bit and running through the tests "loosened" it up again?

Screws are definitely not tight.
It should be looked at.

You are at the point where you see the problem but its not critical yet.

Read my thread about door height adjustment.

The right door should set slightly lower than the left.

Dont even them up during adjustment. The latch operates slightly canted.

#11058 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Back to "greasing the monkey." I used white lithium grease. However, although the monkey works, it still sounds like it's binding while running. Maybe use a different grease? For other folks, is it quiet in operation or can you hear it while it's in motion? Some say to use superlube. Thoughts? Suggestions?
Thanks.

White lithium grease is pefect for the threaded rod on both the witch and the monkey.

(Yes put a little on the witch rod when you lube the monkey. I apply it about once a year or so)

You can switch to clear silicone grease but its much the same.

The clear isnt as messy, that's all.

The monkey is not as quiet as you might think. But it gets quieter as you lube it a bit.

But you cant hear it much during a game.

#11059 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Screws are definitely not tight.
It should be looked at.
You are at the point where you see the problem but its not critical yet.
Read my thread about door height adjustment.
The right door should set slightly lower than the left.
Dont even them up during adjustment. The latch operates slightly canted.

Hmmm, so when the doors were open, I could move them and they appeared to move "snuggly." If the screws were loose, wouldn't the doors seem to swing open with some "looseness" when swinging them open and close? (forgive the highly technical terms, "snuggly.")

And, I'm not adverse to taking off mini playfield to really fix this more permanently. I did read through that entire thread on the doors.

#11060 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

White lithium grease is pefect for the threaded rod on both the witch and the monkey.
You can switch to clear silicone grease but its much the same.
The monkey is not as quiet as you might think.
But you cant hear it much during a game.

OK, good to know. I just wanted to confirm before I kept letting it run.

#11061 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Hmmm, so when the doors were open, I could move them and they appeared to move "snuggly." If the screws were loose, wouldn't the doors seem to swing open with some "looseness" when swinging them open and close? (forgive the highly technical terms, "snuggly.")
And, I'm not adverse to taking off mini playfield to really fix this more permanently. I did read through that entire thread on the doors.

Not necessarily.

They have just taken a "set".

Constant bashing will loosen them up more until the problem is more evident.

I would wait until it gets worse to fix it properly.

Have a few extra black allen screws available. You want to change them out as the heads pop off.

Its also good to have spare door posts available for when you break off a screw from tightening.

I just ordered black door screws for the doors themselves along with shafts from JJP.

If you order shaft screws they send tiny set screws. The factory upgraded to full on Allen screws furing production .

They use 3/16" length but, 1/4" works perfectly.

Theres an actual door kit listed in the manual, ive ordered them too.

I have even flattened the motor shafts with a dremel. It helps a bit.

The problem is the screws are too small. You can't get them tight enough without popping the heads off.

#11062 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Not necessarily.
They have just taken a "set".
Constant bashing will loosen them up more until the problem is more evident.
I would wait until it gets worse to fix it properly.
Have a few extra black allen screws available. You want to change them out as the heads pop off.
Its also good to have spare door posts available for when you break off a screw from tightening.
I just ordered black door screws for the doors themselves along with shafts from JJP.
If you order shaft screws they send tiny set screws. The factory upgraded to full on Allen screws furing production .
They use 3/16" length but, 1/4" works perfectly.
Theres an actual door kit listed in the manual, ive ordered them too.
I have even flattened the motor shafts with a dremel. It helps a bit.
The problem is the screws are too small. You can't get them tight enough without popping the heads off.

Great info, thanks.

#11063 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Screws are definitely not tight.
It should be looked at.
You are at the point where you see the problem but its not critical yet.
Read my thread about door height adjustment.
The right door should set slightly lower than the left.
Dont even them up during adjustment. The latch operates slightly canted.

That didn't take long. Played a few games and the the right door occasionally stuck closed (meaning, it didn't open). So, looks like I will plan to remove the mini playfield and do some surgery. Get the parts everyone recommended so I use the right screws and blue locktite.

#11064 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Screws are definitely not tight.
It should be looked at.
You are at the point where you see the problem but its not critical yet.
Read my thread about door height adjustment.
The right door should set slightly lower than the left.
Dont even them up during adjustment. The latch operates slightly canted.

I played about 30 games and no issues. But, I plan to take off the mini playfield this weekend and do some tweaking. Can you tell me what size screws I need? Can I get them from Home Depot? So, if I get the screws and blue locktite and follow your instructions for the doors, should that be enough for maintenance while I have the playfield off?

Thanks.

#11065 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Can you tell me what size screws I need?

That secure the motor to door shaft ?

If so - 6/32 x 1/8" set screw cup point black item 1 D in the manual page C-38

You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - under Support - under Downloads - under Wizard Of Oz

LTG : )

#11066 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

That secure the motor to door shaft ?
If so - 6/32 x 1/8" set screw cup point black item 1 D in the manual page C-38
You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - under Support - under Downloads - under Wizard Of Oz
LTG : )

Yes the manual mentions the early production 1/8" set screws setup. The single door still uses them.

They changed to 6-32 x 3/16" or 1/4" length black socket (allen) head screws in production after a month. Either length works perfectly but, 3/16" length is stock.

1/4" length is easier to get.
I bought a bag of 100 for $4 shipped lol

My game was built in week 4 and has allen screws and 7.5v system.

You can put a bigger wrench on allen screws for a bit more tightness. It really helps.

#11067 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes the manual mentions the early production 1/8" set screws setup. The single door still uses them.
They changed to 6-32 x 3/16" or 1/4" length black socket (allen) head screws in production after a month. Either length works perfectly but, 3/16" length is stock.
1/4" length is easier to get.
I bought a bag of 100 for $4 shipped lol
My game was built in week 4 and has allen screws and 7.5v system.
You can put a bigger wrench on allen screws for a bit more tightness. It really helps.

Thanks! I ordered 4 different size kit, which includes 1/4" size for $10 100 pieces. Also ordered some blue locktite. Will do this weekend and report back for duty!

Did I mention I love this game? I have never seen a game so closely connected to the theme. I feel like I'm "in the movie."

#11068 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Reporting back for duty...
1. I picked up #130 of 1,000 WoZ SE. It has 1.0 7.5V boards, but lights seem to work fine. I guess I should get 2.0 kit just in case for the future?
2. Owner never did code updates. Had 3.0 (?). I upgraded to 7.02 and had issues with monkey mech. Mike said "grease the monkey." that got it moving again, but then magnet sense not working. Saw post from LTG about troubleshooting and found the fix to just flip magnet. That did the trick!
3. Now, my last issue. Castle doors. The right door now doesn't open. I'm guessing I have to remove castle playfield (E3 of manual)? Then, I can see why the right door is not opening? It worked when I first got the machine. Could the code update from 3 to 7 cause the problem? Any ideas on how I should proceed to troubleshoot and fix the right door?
Thanks team WoZ!

Re #1: Beware. 2.0 boards are not as bright as 7.5. I made the jump and regret it. Buy backup 7.5 until Jack decides to fix 2.0 issues with GIs. There's a difference!

#11069 3 years ago
Quoted from RoboBot:

Re #1: Beware. 2.0 boards are not as bright as 7.5. I made the jump and regret it. Buy backup 7.5 until Jack decides to fix 2.0 issues with GIs. There's a difference!

Thanks, sounds like a great plan. I have no issues with the 1.0/7.5 boards so no need to do anything.

#11070 3 years ago

Well, good news and bad news.

The good news is I now know how to take off the castle playfield. I had to make a two wire Molex to get it off. I took off the two set screws (didn't realize there were two) and added newer ones and added blue locktite for each door.

The bad news. It didn't make it better. Maybe even a little worse now. The right door sometimes doesn't open. I wonder if the latch that holds the doors closed is the culprit. It looks like it barely clears. Should I bend it?

IMG_2528 (resized).jpegIMG_2528 (resized).jpegIMG_2529 (resized).jpegIMG_2529 (resized).jpegIMG_2535 (resized).jpegIMG_2535 (resized).jpeg

#11071 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

It looks like it barely clears. Should I bend it?

It may have gotten bent. If when pulled in it doesn't unlatch the door, bend it a little.

LTG : )

#11072 3 years ago

Anyone know how to order parts on Jersey Jack? I can't seem to find door parts, like extra posts. When I go to parts, I only see about 80 parts listed.
Am I searching right?

Another question, is it easy to add an external sub-woofer?

Another question, can knocker get louder? Seems pretty quiet.

Thanks.

#11073 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Anyone know how to order parts on Jersey Jack? I can't seem to find door parts, like extra posts. When I go to parts, I only see about 80 parts listed.
Am I searching right?
Another question, is it easy to add an external sub-woofer?
Another question, can knocker get louder? Seems pretty quiet.
Thanks.

Have your manual on the screen.
Call them.
Very few of the parts are available in the online store.

Read my thread on castle doors.

#11074 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Have your manual on the screen.
Call them.
Very few of the parts are available in the online store.
Read my thread on castle doors.

Yes, I read your thread on castle doors. I thought I did everything. Oh well. Keep trying....thanks on the tips for ordering parts.

#11075 3 years ago

My RR WOZ re-release had a funky error code inside the crystal ball that went away for a short while (2 weeks maybe?) and it worked fine but now the crystal ball is dead. There's nothing showing inside.
I think I read somewhere in this 223 page post that this is not uncommon. Can anyone point me in the right direction to fix it? Do I need parts from JJP?

thanks

IMG_20200707_214042 (resized).jpgIMG_20200707_214042 (resized).jpg
#11076 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Yes, I read your thread on castle doors. I thought I did everything. Oh well. Keep trying....thanks on the tips for ordering parts.

Just for shits n giggles did you check where the stuck door meets the castle wall ? It only takes a hair width to stop it from opening .

#11077 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Well, good news and bad news.?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You don't really have to remove it completely from the game. Just get it free and flip it over on top of a blanket or towel and work on it in the game. My right door set screw was a bit lose and the right door wouldn't open. Easy fix once I got the PF flipped over.

IMG_20200625_114756 (resized).jpgIMG_20200625_114756 (resized).jpg
#11078 3 years ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

Just for shits n giggles did you check where the stuck door meets the castle wall ? It only takes a hair width to stop it from opening .

hmmm, so taking the wall on and off could keep the door from opening? When I go to test mode and test doors, the right door will not open now. Before I did all this work, it was working. The right door doesn't open at all now during game play and when in test mode testing doors.

#11079 3 years ago

I might be bias because this was my first pin purchased and not that it matters but for the life of me I can’t figure out how this is not a top 10 pin .I just started in pinball this last spring but we have a place we go to that has 90 plus n a lot of new ones and with all this game has to offer (toys,immense code,lighting,shots,2nd chance out lanes ,real movie characters with they’re voices and scenes ,so many options to mod to your liking,incredible flow,incredible multi ball as you have 2 UPFs your playing while keeping lower 1/3 going).Is it because it’s not a “manly” enough theme ? What do you think ?

#11080 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

You don't really have to remove it completely from the game. Just get it free and flip it over on top of a blanket or towel and work on it in the game. My right door set screw was a bit lose and the right door wouldn't open. Easy fix once I got the PF flipped over. [quoted image]

Thanks. Are there two set screws for each door post? I had one opposite each other. Just want to make sure I'm working the right set screws.

#11081 3 years ago

the top 100 list is kind of biased towards the brand new games that just came out. Whatever game just came out is going to end up in the top 4 immediately as the fan boys fluff up its ratings because they own it. A game shouldn't even be eligible for the top 5 or 10 until it is at least 5 years old and has a certain amount of votes (maybe 500?).

#11082 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Thanks. Are there two set screws for each door post? I had one opposite each other. Just want to make sure I'm working the right set screws.

I honestly can't remember there being 2. I think there was only 1 but my memory is terrible.

#11083 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

I honestly can't remember there being 2. I think there was only 1 but my memory is terrible.

Manual has two. One each side.

LTG : )

#11084 3 years ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

I might be bias because this was my first pin purchased and not that it matters but for the life of me I can’t figure out how this is not a top 10 pin .I just started in pinball this last spring but we have a place we go to that has 90 plus n a lot of new ones and with all this game has to offer (toys,immense code,lighting,shots,2nd chance out lanes ,real movie characters with they’re voices and scenes ,so many options to mod to your liking,incredible flow,incredible multi ball as you have 2 UPFs your playing while keeping lower 1/3 going).Is it because it’s not a “manly” enough theme ? What do you think ?

Agreed. I wasn't a pinhead until well after this one was released so I didn't get in on the initial hype. The family loved the WoZ theme but going by where it sits on "the list" I hesitated to get one for a while. When we finally got this one home I was blown away. The numerous toys and neat little details like the crystal ball and witches legs are pretty cool but even the call outs, music, and sound quality are all extremely well done. It checks a lot of boxes for me and the fam so its close to, if not at the top of my somewhat inexperienced list. I lost interest in my AFMr SE after about 5 plays and that one is in the top 5? I don't get it - though I know it has a lot of fans. Different strokes for different folks. Glad WoZ isn't any more popular because that makes it a comparative bargain!

#11085 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

My RR WOZ re-release had a funky error code inside the crystal ball that went away for a short while (2 weeks maybe?) and it worked fine but now the crystal ball is dead. There's nothing showing inside.
I think I read somewhere in this 223 page post that this is not uncommon. Can anyone point me in the right direction to fix it? Do I need parts from JJP?
thanks[quoted image]

Try and reseat the SD card in the crystal ball.

#11086 3 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Try and reseat the SD card in the crystal ball.

I did this as well and have the same error message in ball on occasion. Mine has a build date on 9-19 so I think it’s common. Might need a new SD or a monitor all together... I just live with mine.

#11087 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

hmmm, so taking the wall on and off could keep the door from opening? When I go to test mode and test doors, the right door will not open now. Before I did all this work, it was working. The right door doesn't open at all now during game play and when in test mode testing doors.

Burned out weak motor.
Replace it or both.

Its just a weak design, expect them to burn out.

Generally the right one fails more than the left.

Get 2 spares when you order.

I have replaced 6 of them and have 3 spares.

You get good at removing the castle playfield, it only takes adout 15 mins.

Im not sure about cutting off a wire and adding a connector. Its not necessary on my game.

I can change both motors in about 45 mins now, and have it all reinstalled.

#11088 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

My RR WOZ re-release had a funky error code inside the crystal ball that went away for a short while (2 weeks maybe?) and it worked fine but now the crystal ball is dead. There's nothing showing inside.
I think I read somewhere in this 223 page post that this is not uncommon. Can anyone point me in the right direction to fix it? Do I need parts from JJP?
thanks[quoted image]

Quoted from Bmanpin:

I did this as well and have the same error message in ball on occasion. Mine has a build date on 9-19 so I think it’s common. Might need a new SD or a monitor all together... I just live with mine.

Replace the oled display.

They go bad or get weird.

Also a low power/cold boot causes an improper load to the display.

Rebooting usually fixes it.

But if it happens alot just replace the screen.

JJP has them, its a fairly quick repair.

#11089 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

I honestly can't remember there being 2. I think there was only 1 but my memory is terrible.

It needs 2.

With one it would continuously loosen up.

#11090 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im not sure about cutting off a wire and adding a connector. Its not necessary...

The very early woz’s did not have a molex connector. The wires had to be cut to take off the castle pf.

#11091 3 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

The very early woz’s did not have a molex connector. The wires had to be cut to take off the castle pf.

Wow! Thats good to know.

Very early must have been the first 50 or so off the line, before they had the manual sorted out.

Mine is #132 built in week 3 or 4 of production. It matches the manual.

#11092 3 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Try and reseat the SD card in the crystal ball.

Don't forget to reseat the connector to the motherboard too.

LTG : )

#11093 3 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

The very early woz’s did not have a molex connector. The wires had to be cut to take off the castle pf.

Great, than I know I wasn't crazy. I'm #130 so I was apparently before they started adding the additional Molex. Good I have it now. The first time taking off the castle playfield took me almost 2 hours since I had to take a detour and create a molex. Today, I took off the playfield in 8 minutes.

#11094 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Burned out weak motor.
Replace it or both.
Its just a weak design, expect them to burn out.
Generally the right one fails more than the left.
Get 2 spares when you order.
I have replaced 6 of them and have 3 spares.
You get good at removing the castle playfield, it only takes adout 15 mins.
Im not sure about cutting off a wire and adding a connector. Its not necessary on my game.
I can change both motors in about 45 mins now, and have it all reinstalled.

Well, I did another round of taking off the castle playfield. I also ordered a set of motors. As I mentioned earlier, it only took me 8 minutes to take off now that I know how to do it.

I tried to adjust the right door my moving the position so it cleared the latch sooner. Didn't help. Maybe now I'm rubbing the playfield causing the bottom of the door to rub the wood...

Here's a question I have. How do the motors open and close doors? Is this the order?

1. Coil pulls latch and both doors open by the attached springs.
2. Doors close by latch opening and motors "pull" doors closed.

Do I have it right? If so, if I can reach the latch and lift up doors should "spring" open? Or do the motors open the doors and the springs close the doors?

Thanks.

IMG_2538 (resized).jpegIMG_2538 (resized).jpeg
#11095 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Well, I did another round of taking off the castle playfield. I also ordered a set of motors. As I mentioned earlier, it only took me 8 minutes to take off now that I know how to do it.
I tried to adjust the right door my moving the position so it cleared the latch sooner. Didn't help. Maybe now I'm rubbing the playfield causing the bottom of the door to rub the wood...
Here's a question I have. How do the motors open and close doors? Is this the order?
1. Coil pulls latch and both doors open by the attached springs.
2. Doors close by latch opening and motors "pull" doors closed.
Do I have it right? If so, if I can reach the latch and lift up doors should "spring" open? Or do the motors open the doors and the springs close the doors?
Thanks.[quoted image]

The motors open the doors under full power.

They don't turn off, the motors are force stopped while the doors are open under full power.

This causes heat build-up, shaft loosening and an early death of the motor.

Its a weak design.

The springs close the doors when the motors shut down.

The motor does not reverse to close the doors.

Again, its a weak design but it works pretty good.

Just have spare motors, door posts and screws available.

Its also good to have the black pan head screws available if you have to remove a door from the post.

Also a 4" channel lock plier to get the lower right door screw out.

It gets beat to death.

#11096 3 years ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

I did this as well and have the same error message in ball on occasion. Mine has a build date on 9-19 so I think it’s common. Might need a new SD or a monitor all together... I just live with mine.

I blew some air on both the card connectors and the card slot. It's an hold habit I kept from Nintendo cartridges.

And as LTG said also reseat the connector to the motherboard.

Next next step would be to reinstall the folders on the SD card, I've never had to do it but I remember someone else posting about that in this thread.

#11097 3 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I blew some air on both the card connectors and the card slot. It's an hold habit I kept from Nintendo cartridges.
And as LTG said also reseat the connector to the motherboard.
Next next step would be to reinstall the folders on the SD card, I've never had to do it but I remember someone else posting about that in this thread.

I made a backup sdcard using raw copy. But havent tried it to see if it worked.

#11098 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The motors open the doors under full power.
They don't turn off, the motors are force stopped while the doors are open under full power.
This causes heat build-up, shaft loosening and an early death of the motor.
Its a weak design.
The springs close the doors when the motors shut down.
The motor does not reverse to close the doors.
Again, its a weak design but it works pretty good.
Just have spare motors, door posts and screws available.
Its also good to have the black pan head screws available if you have to remove a door from the post.
Also a 4" channel lock plier to get the lower right door screw out.
It gets beat to death.

Excellent info as usual sir. Do you know if JJP sells a kit for the doors or does everything get ordered separately?

#11099 3 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Excellent info as usual sir. Do you know if JJP sells a kit for the doors or does everything get ordered separately?

There is a kit/assembly listed on the page in the manual that has all the parts.
Both

The door post kit has a part number.

Look it up in the manual, its on the right side of the page with a box around it.

They may or may not have all the parts.

Don't be surprized if you get tiny set screws for the door posts.

Throw them away i guess. They arent used any more.

6-32 x 3/16" black Allen head screws is whats being used.

1/4" will also work exactly the same.

#11100 3 years ago

Reporting back for duty....

1. I pretty much narrowed down my castle door issue to a bad right motor. Awaiting parts.
2. I discovered chipped paint around top left pop bumper. Does JJP do anything about these playfield issues. If not, I guess my best option is to put on a playfield protector to prevent issues here or other parts of the playfield. I did put some mylar down for now in this area. Anyone have experience with putting down a playfield protector? Any lessons learned or tips?
3. While I'm doing the playfield protector, will do a full shop job. Any tips here?
4. Anyone connect up an external sub? Success, tips?

Thanks.

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