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(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

6 years ago



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  • 582 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by BENETNATH
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There are 11398 posts in this topic. You are on page 221 of 228.
#11001 63 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I get that but i wouldnt be a fan of my lights not working in the future..

I might be in the minority.

However, I've had 1 rainbow board and 3 single satellite boards go bad in 6 years of continuous play.

Its holding up as good or better than any of my other games (IJ gives me the most trouble).

These failures also happen in the 2.0 system.

So, I'm confident that the 7.5v system i have is plenty stable in my case.

I have replacement board sets for all if my games, not just JJP.

Its just good practice if you have a collection of assorted games.

#11002 63 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I get that but i wouldnt be a fan of my lights not working in the future..

To me I hate having a game just go bad all the time. I have lots of boards but I am under the hood at all the wrong times.

#11003 63 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Ahsolutely!
I have a couple sets lol.
So im good for a very long time...

Hope you got a smoking deal on all of those. I haven't seen whole sets for less than $250 or so for a year or two. By that point you're mostly towards a 2.0 kit.

#11004 63 days ago

Getting sick of looking at the switch and gate on the ramp.

pasted_image (resized).png
#11005 62 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hope you got a smoking deal on all of those. I haven't seen whole sets for less than $250 or so for a year or two. By that point you're mostly towards a 2.0 kit.

I did. I got them way early on with complete wire sets.

I also got a couple PC mainboards when they were $30 complete with CPU chips and RAM.

So im good to go for many years.

it's not the cost of the kit, I just dont like the dimness of the 2.0 GI.

Everything else is great!

Now im looking into a USB to M.2 converter enclosure to replace the SSD.

I just want to speed up the load times.

I put an I5 on the computer. Its very sprightly.

#11006 62 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I did. I got them way early on with complete wire sets.
I also got a couple PC mainboards when they were $30 complete with CPU chips and RAM.
So im good to go for many years.
it's not the cost of the kit, I just dont like the dimness of the 2.0 GI.
Everything else is great!
Now im looking into a USB to M.2 converter enclosure to replace the SSD.
I just want to speed up the load times.
I put an I5 on the computer. Its very sprightly.

Cool. I was disappointed in the 2.0 hue. Mine is extremely blue when it should be white. Brightness (having had a SE v1, RR 2.0 factory and ECLE v1 which I upgraded to v2) didn't seem to be a huge difference to me. I was going to have to find a large board to fix the v1 in ECLE so v2 seemed smart and I like the knowledge that it is done but I agree the lighting is a bit sucky compared.

I'd love to know if the M.2 speeds it up. Not that boot time is that big of a deal but apparently we are the kind of people who will do that kind of thing, lol.

#11007 61 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Getting sick of looking at the switch and gate on the ramp. [quoted image]

Is that a new mod in the works ?

#11008 61 days ago

Does anyone who has upgraded to 2.0 lighting have a couple 7.5v single LED lights laying around and want to sell them to me? Shoot me a PM if you do and what you'd want to ship a couple my way, thanks.

#11009 61 days ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

Is that a new mod in the works ?

Yup. Just printed what I hope is the final. Testing paint scheme and possible lighting

#11010 61 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yup. Just printed what I hope is the final. Testing paint scheme and possible lighting

Looks great HH !

#11011 61 days ago

I’ve got all the Pre-2.0 wiring harnesses (power and data cables) mostly intact... a couple (2-3 connectors) may have been cut but the rest is all there. I’d sell them cheap if anyone wants/needs them.

#11012 61 days ago
Quoted from bajm:

I’ve got all the Pre-2.0 wiring harnesses (power and data cables) mostly intact... a couple (2-3 connectors) may have been cut but the rest is all there. I’d sell them cheap if anyone wants/needs them.

Are you selling the complete boardset? Pm me

#11013 61 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Are you selling the complete boardset? Pm me

no... just all the cables that go with it. When I bought the 2.0 kit, JJP had me send them back all my boards as part of the deal I made with them. I supposedly got a discount on the kit but idk...

#11014 61 days ago

dedicated switch bad switch monkey magnet sense. how does one fix?

#11015 61 days ago
Quoted from gmanrulz46:

dedicated switch bad switch monkey magnet sense. how does one fix?

Here are all the hints I gathered to check and adjust the monkey sense switch.

LTG : )

http://www.pinplay.com/20/winged_monkey_misbehaving_wont_pick_up_the_ball_or_picks_up_nothing.html

Prop the playfield up at the front so the ball will rest on the monkey
magnet. This way you don't have to try and hold the ball on the magnet
while initiating the test. Go into tests, Top Lane Magnet Sensor Test.
Close the coin door or enable power to the coils with the interlock
switch. Place the ball on the magnet and press enter. You should see the
Monkey Magnet Sense switch activate when the magnet turns on.
_____________________________________________________________________________

I had a Non-working sensor, which in turn gave me a error dot/report on the LCD (lower right corner/red square).

I flipped the board over (circuit board turned in) and then got a over-sensitive (working) reading.

I then started moving the board to different locations to try to find a working one (circuit board still tuned inward)

After moving the board to 3-4 different locations I came across this one that seems to work great (see pictures)

WARNING: when testing the magnet gets VERY HOT rather quickly while in test mode. I personally would suggest backing out of the menu (one layer) and unplugging the sensor in between adjustments.

WARNING #2:
If you are unsure of just how hot your magnet is, AT YOUR OWN RISK, touch it, if it burns your finger/hand you should probably back out of the test menu for about 10 minutes or so to let it cool down.

Remember, a hot magnet may give a bad reading.
__________________________________________________________________

My Monkey Magnet Sensor was also not working after upgrading to 4.0. All it needed was for the magnet to be flipped.

1) lift up the playfield all the way
2) unscrew the 3 screws holding the monkey magnet. there is no need to unplug anything.
3) carefully remove the magnet housing and center pole and you will see the donut shaped magnet
4) remove the magnet off the pole and flip it over and reinstall
_____________________________________________________________________

To test the Monkey switch, you need to test it with and without a ball. If you go into the monkey magnet test (under device tests), you can hit the start button to activate the magnet. The switch should NOT be active when this happens. In the test, you should see the box for the magnet active, but not the switch. Then, hit the start button again, but this time with a ball on the magnet(easy to test this by having the playfield pulled up and on the first rail position). Now, your monkey magnet detect switch should be active along with the magnet. This switch will only ever activate if there is an active magnet present. Just putting a ball next to it won't do anything. Some of the games were built before this mode was fully vested out, so the switches may not be calibrated in the right position, and could use adjustment.

If your switch is always active when the magnet is on, you will need to re-position the switch. Try holding it in a place you can mount it, and try the magnet with and without a ball on it to see if it trips the way it should (only with a ball on it). Once you find a good spot, screw it back down and test it again.

Another complication is that the switch is a Hall Effect sensor, and will only sense a certain magnetic field orientation. If the big magnet underneath the playfield is not North South relative to the playfield, your hall effect sensor will not register. Because the magnet can be mounted in either direction, and there is no indication, there are a couple things you can do to make sure yours is correct, or simple ways to change it. Easiest thing to do is just flip the monkey magnet detect board over (so the hall effect, resistor, and connector are now away from the panel instead of against it, or vice-verse).

ms (resized).jpg
#11016 61 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yup. Just printed what I hope is the final. Testing paint scheme and possible lighting

Second on looking great! It’ll be interesting to see how your paint and lighting goes with?! Definitely interested when you make these available!

#11017 61 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yup. Just printed what I hope is the final. Testing paint scheme and possible lighting

Pm me when you are getting a list together. I'm interested.

#11018 61 days ago

If anyone can help, I have been searching for this all over pinside with no luck. I keep getting switch error on #77,78 switches "Door Bash" both doors open and close fine during gameplay. The doors do not stay locked, first ball that hits goes right through to the saucer, then gets kicked out. Is it possible the coil has stopped working. This is a RR made in 2015,latest software and 2.0. If this is a bad coil where could I buy one as JJP does not have this on their website as for sale.

#11019 60 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Here are all the hints I gathered to check and adjust the monkey sense switch.
LTG : )
http://www.pinplay.com/20/winged_monkey_misbehaving_wont_pick_up_the_ball_or_picks_up_nothing.html
Prop the playfield up at the front so the ball will rest on the monkey
magnet. This way you don't have to try and hold the ball on the magnet
while initiating the test. Go into tests, Top Lane Magnet Sensor Test.
Close the coin door or enable power to the coils with the interlock
switch. Place the ball on the magnet and press enter. You should see the
Monkey Magnet Sense switch activate when the magnet turns on.
_____________________________________________________________________________
I had a Non-working sensor, which in turn gave me a error dot/report on the LCD (lower right corner/red square).
I flipped the board over (circuit board turned in) and then got a over-sensitive (working) reading.
I then started moving the board to different locations to try to find a working one (circuit board still tuned inward)
After moving the board to 3-4 different locations I came across this one that seems to work great (see pictures)
WARNING: when testing the magnet gets VERY HOT rather quickly while in test mode. I personally would suggest backing out of the menu (one layer) and unplugging the sensor in between adjustments.
WARNING #2:
If you are unsure of just how hot your magnet is, AT YOUR OWN RISK, touch it, if it burns your finger/hand you should probably back out of the test menu for about 10 minutes or so to let it cool down.
Remember, a hot magnet may give a bad reading.
__________________________________________________________________
My Monkey Magnet Sensor was also not working after upgrading to 4.0. All it needed was for the magnet to be flipped.
1) lift up the playfield all the way
2) unscrew the 3 screws holding the monkey magnet. there is no need to unplug anything.
3) carefully remove the magnet housing and center pole and you will see the donut shaped magnet
4) remove the magnet off the pole and flip it over and reinstall
_____________________________________________________________________
To test the Monkey switch, you need to test it with and without a ball. If you go into the monkey magnet test (under device tests), you can hit the start button to activate the magnet. The switch should NOT be active when this happens. In the test, you should see the box for the magnet active, but not the switch. Then, hit the start button again, but this time with a ball on the magnet(easy to test this by having the playfield pulled up and on the first rail position). Now, your monkey magnet detect switch should be active along with the magnet. This switch will only ever activate if there is an active magnet present. Just putting a ball next to it won't do anything. Some of the games were built before this mode was fully vested out, so the switches may not be calibrated in the right position, and could use adjustment.
If your switch is always active when the magnet is on, you will need to re-position the switch. Try holding it in a place you can mount it, and try the magnet with and without a ball on it to see if it trips the way it should (only with a ball on it). Once you find a good spot, screw it back down and test it again.
Another complication is that the switch is a Hall Effect sensor, and will only sense a certain magnetic field orientation. If the big magnet underneath the playfield is not North South relative to the playfield, your hall effect sensor will not register. Because the magnet can be mounted in either direction, and there is no indication, there are a couple things you can do to make sure yours is correct, or simple ways to change it. Easiest thing to do is just flip the monkey magnet detect board over (so the hall effect, resistor, and connector are now away from the panel instead of against it, or vice-verse).[quoted image]

Can someone make this a key post?

#11020 60 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Can someone make this a key post?

The WOZ thread is seriously lacking in key posts. There is so much knowledge in here that’s hard to find.

#11021 60 days ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

If anyone can help, I have been searching for this all over pinside with no luck. I keep getting switch error on #77,78 switches "Door Bash" both doors open and close fine during gameplay. The doors do not stay locked, first ball that hits goes right through to the saucer, then gets kicked out. Is it possible the coil has stopped working. This is a RR made in 2015,latest software and 2.0. If this is a bad coil where could I buy one as JJP does not have this on their website as for sale.

How does it work in the device test?

From there you can see the switches and door motors work.

#11022 60 days ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

If anyone can help, I have been searching for this all over pinside with no luck. I keep getting switch error on #77,78 switches "Door Bash" both doors open and close fine during gameplay. The doors do not stay locked, first ball that hits goes right through to the saucer, then gets kicked out. Is it possible the coil has stopped working. This is a RR made in 2015,latest software and 2.0. If this is a bad coil where could I buy one as JJP does not have this on their website as for sale.

I am not sure if I understand your post, but I will say that it is common for the lock screws on the door hinge pins to become loose. The doors will then not open and close properly. They also will allow a ball to go through when hit.

To fix this you would need to remove the upper playfield and tighten the lock screws down.

#11023 60 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

How does it work in the device test?
From there you can see the switches and door motors work.

The left door opens but the right only a little.

#11024 60 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

I am not sure if I understand your post, but I will say that it is common for the lock screws on the door hinge pins to become loose. The doors will then not open and close properly. They also will allow a ball to go through when hit.
To fix this you would need to remove the upper playfield and tighten the lock screws down.

I was thinking something is loose or broken underneath, guess I will take the upper playfield off for a good inspection.

#11025 60 days ago

Just got my first WoZ. SE,with 1.0 lights. According to previous owners, lights have been working for the past 5+ years without any issue. Very bright, too.

Question about Monkey Mech. It's picking up ball, but stops about 1/3 the way back up and then drops the ball. Maybe during transport, something got loose? Anything I should check?

Thanks.

#11026 60 days ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

The left door opens but the right only a little.

When the pin is trying to open the RH door, do you hear the motor running and not stopping?

When the lock screws are loose, the motor will continue to run trying to open the door and the door will not move.

#11027 60 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

It's picking up ball, but stops about 1/3 the way back up and then drops the ball. Maybe during transport, something got loose? Anything I should check?

The whole monkey mech is attached to a wide metal plate. One the left side up by the castle is a limit switch. On the right down by the playfield is a limit switch. Sounds like the one on the left up by the castle is closing way early and needs to be adjusted to close later.

Follow the wires to help you locate the switches.

LTG : )

IMG_0474 (resized).JPG
#11028 60 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

The whole monkey mech is attached to a wide metal plate. One the left side up by the castle is a limit switch. On the right down by the playfield is a limit switch. Sounds like the one on the left up by the castle is closing way early and needs to be adjusted to close later.
Follow the wires to help you locate the switches.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Also make sure the mech is lubricated. It's in the manual. Mine was bone dry and working like crap. Slow, getting stuck in different spots and dropping the ball. Lubricated(synthetic grease) and BINGO! working awesome now!

#11029 60 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Also make sure the mech is lubricated. It's in the manual. Mine was bone dry and working like crap. Slow, getting stuck in different spots and dropping the ball. Lubricated(synthetic grease) and BINGO! working awesome now!

Thanks LTG and Mike. Will check both.

#11030 60 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

I am not sure if I understand your post, but I will say that it is common for the lock screws on the door hinge pins to become loose. The doors will then not open and close properly. They also will allow a ball to go through when hit.
To fix this you would need to remove the upper playfield and tighten the lock screws down.

The Phillips screw was loose at the top of the latch, going to reinstall with blue locktite,The set screw in the shaft is missing but there is also one directly behind it so the shaft is ok. Now I have to try to find one lol.

IMG_1560 (resized).jpg
#11031 60 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Mine was bone dry and working like crap.

If there is old grease on it, clean it all off before putting on new.

LTG : )

#11032 60 days ago

I guess I found my problem. Is this the sensor for the monkey mech? Where is it suppose to be installed/located?

Thanks.

IMG_2465 (resized).jpegIMG_2466 (resized).jpegIMG_2468 (resized).jpeg
#11033 60 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Is this the sensor for the monkey mech?

You've discovered LED board #11 that mounts back of the insert on the backboard of the playfield.

Switches are circled in red.

LTG : )

0e0c4a0a4062fe41a019cd7c7dd0cba6071bb1e5 (resized).jpg
#11034 60 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

You've discovered LED board #11 that mounts back of the insert on the backboard of the playfield.
Switches are circled in red.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Does that board impact game play? Or, just a light for the insert? I did notice the mech was bone dry so need to grease up.

#11035 60 days ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

The left door opens but the right only a little.

I dunno if this will help but when I put my mod couple doors on I had that happen .Left would open ,right just a little it was getting stuck on the castle walls .I had to adjust the wall to the right of double doors .

#11036 60 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Does that board impact game play? Or, just a light for the insert? I did notice the mech was bone dry so need to grease up.

Don't overdo it - a little goes a long way. And the first time you turn it on, you might want to drape a towel over that area, as it flings grease everywhere.

Ask how I know

#11037 60 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Does that board impact game play? Or, just a light for the insert?

Just lights the Capture Dorothy insert. Won't impact game play as long as it doesn't short to anything or get tangled in the flying monkey mechanism.

LTG : )

#11038 60 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Does that board impact game play? Or, just a light for the insert? I did notice the mech was bone dry so need to grease up.

Quoted from LTG:

Just lights the Capture Dorothy insert. Won't impact game play as long as it doesn't short to anything or get tangled in the flying monkey mechanism.
LTG : )

Thanks, will get back in place. I tried looking through the manual and it wasn't clear to me where to install/put back.

#11039 60 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

I tried looking through the manual and it wasn't clear to me where to install/put back.

Page C-54 in the current manual that you can download on line from the JJP website.

LTG : )

#11040 60 days ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Don't overdo it - a little goes a long way. And the first time you turn it on, you might want to drape a towel over that area, as it flings grease everywhere.
Ask how I know

Well, it was just in need of grease. Works perfectly now. Also found the LED board location. Was just mounted with double stick tape.

By the way, what is the best grease to use?

I love this game.

#11041 60 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Well, it was just in need of grease. Works perfectly now. Also found the LED board location. Was just mounted with double stick tape.
By the way, what is the best grease to use?
I love this game.

I used white lithium grease because I had it on hand. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

#11042 60 days ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I used white lithium grease because I had it on hand. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

that’s exactly what I used!

#11043 60 days ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

The left door opens but the right only a little.

You have a bad motor.
I usually replace them in pairs.

See my thread on this.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully

I burned out both motors 4 weeks into a brand new game.

JJP stepped up and made it right!

#11044 59 days ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I used white lithium grease because I had it on hand. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

You should wipe that off your hand.

#11045 59 days ago

Reporting back for duty...

1. I picked up #130 of 1,000 WoZ SE. It has 1.0 7.5V boards, but lights seem to work fine. I guess I should get 2.0 kit just in case for the future?
2. Owner never did code updates. Had 3.0 (?). I upgraded to 7.02 and had issues with monkey mech. Mike said "grease the monkey." that got it moving again, but then magnet sense not working. Saw post from LTG about troubleshooting and found the fix to just flip magnet. That did the trick!
3. Now, my last issue. Castle doors. The right door now doesn't open. I'm guessing I have to remove castle playfield (E3 of manual)? Then, I can see why the right door is not opening? It worked when I first got the machine. Could the code update from 3 to 7 cause the problem? Any ideas on how I should proceed to troubleshoot and fix the right door?

Thanks team WoZ!

#11046 59 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

3. Now, my last issue. Castle doors. The right door now doesn't open. I'm guessing I have to remove castle playfield (E3 of manual)? Then, I can see why the right door is not opening? It worked when I first got the machine. Could the code update from 3 to 7 cause the problem? Any ideas on how I should proceed to troubleshoot and fix the right door?

Code update didn't do it.

I would lift the playfield up and pull forward and rest on front of the cabinet. Look the door over to be sure it isn't binding on anything. Then try it in door test and see if it works. If not does the motor sound like it's turning ? If so loose set screw holding the motor shaft to the door shaft. If not, maybe the motor failed.

LTG : )

#11047 59 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Reporting back for duty...
1. I picked up #130 of 1,000 WoZ SE. It has 1.0 7.5V boards, but lights seem to work fine. I guess I should get 2.0 kit just in case for the future?
2. Owner never did code updates. Had 3.0 (?). I upgraded to 7.02 and had issues with monkey mech. Mike said "grease the monkey." that got it moving again, but then magnet sense not working. Saw post from LTG about troubleshooting and found the fix to just flip magnet. That did the trick!
3. Now, my last issue. Castle doors. The right door now doesn't open. I'm guessing I have to remove castle playfield (E3 of manual)? Then, I can see why the right door is not opening? It worked when I first got the machine. Could the code update from 3 to 7 cause the problem? Any ideas on how I should proceed to troubleshoot and fix the right door?
Thanks team WoZ!

I just had this problem. You have to take off the upper playfield, there are good directions in the manual.The screw on the latch was very loose. Added some blue locktite and good to go. The pic shows the phillips screw that is probably the culprit.

IMG_1560 (resized).jpg
#11048 59 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Getting sick of looking at the switch and gate on the ramp. [quoted image]

This looks good!

#11049 58 days ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

I just had this problem. You have to take off the upper playfield, there are good directions in the manual.The screw on the latch was very loose. Added some blue locktite and good to go. The pic shows the phillips screw that is probably the culprit.[quoted image]

So, if I hear the mech, then it's the screw on the latch. If the screw is not tight enough, I assume I could move the right door with my hand, right? I say this because with the game off, I cannot move either the left or right door. Wouldn't that indicate the door is either binding or the motor is dead like LTG said?

Thanks.

#11050 58 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

So, if I hear the mech, then it's the screw on the latch. If the screw is not tight enough, I assume I could move the right door with my hand, right? I say this because with the game off, I cannot move either the left or right door. Wouldn't that indicate the door is either binding or the motor is dead like LTG said?
Thanks.

My door did not work either.

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