Looking for a RR and if anyone maybe thinking of selling, I have a 9k budget maybe more depending on numbered pin.
Thx
Looking for a RR and if anyone maybe thinking of selling, I have a 9k budget maybe more depending on numbered pin.
Thx
Does anyone have a good suggestion for a lubricant for the Flying Monkey threaded rod, other than lithium grease? I feel like the lithium grease gets gunked up after some time. I notice the monkey slowing in spots from it.
Quoted from Rager170:Does anyone have a good suggestion for a lubricant for the Flying Monkey threaded rod, other than lithium grease? I feel like the lithium grease gets gunked up after some time. I notice the monkey slowing in spots from it.
I used lithium grease but it doesn't take much at all. My flying monkey is flying now.
Quoted from zaphX:I used lithium grease but it doesn't take much at all. My flying monkey is flying now.
I feel like mine gunks up quickly. Maybe I am adding too much.
Quoted from Rager170:Does anyone have a good suggestion for a lubricant for the Flying Monkey threaded rod, other than lithium grease? I feel like the lithium grease gets gunked up after some time. I notice the monkey slowing in spots from it.
Silicone grease
Quoted from LTG:Any oil. Yes, it works. A little drop on the bearing on each side where the shaft goes into the motor should do it.
LTG : )
Lloyd, I finally got around to putting some 3-in-1 oil on the shaker where you suggested. Unfortunately, I still get the high-pitched squeaking/whining sound. I get that same sound even if I just manually move the shaker around a revolution or two. Any other thoughts on what I might try? Thanks.
Quoted from eb94114:Lloyd, I finally got around to putting some 3-in-1 oil on the shaker where you suggested. Unfortunately, I still get the high-pitched squeaking/whining sound. I get that same sound even if I just manually move the shaker around a revolution or two. Any other thoughts on what I might try? Thanks.
I have this also... I just figured it just comes with the territory. I feel like shakers in all of my machines make noises like this.
Quoted from eb94114:Lloyd, I finally got around to putting some 3-in-1 oil on the shaker where you suggested. Unfortunately, I still get the high-pitched squeaking/whining sound. I get that same sound even if I just manually move the shaker around a revolution or two. Any other thoughts on what I might try? Thanks.
I had this and adjusted the counter weight a bit and that removed it for me. Well does it exist yes but is going to drive you nuts nope.
Quoted from Rager170:Does anyone have a good suggestion for a lubricant for the Flying Monkey threaded rod, other than lithium grease? I feel like the lithium grease gets gunked up after some time. I notice the monkey slowing in spots from it.
I only use Superlube synthetic anywhere on a pinball machine that must use lubricant. (not many places!) Will not gunk up or get sticky and works great.
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-52004-Lightweight-Translucent/dp/B00175VGUA/ref=sr_1_8
Quoted from Yelobird:I only use Superlube synthetic anywhere on a pinball machine that must use lubricant. (not many places!) Will not gunk up or get sticky and works great.
amazon.com link »
Awesome! I will definitely give this a try.
Thanks!
Anyone put color matching rubbers into their WoZ? Thinking about going with the Titan and usually they have sets that people came up with but for WoZ, to my surprise, it reflect none!
Quoted from meSz:Anyone put color matching rubbers into their WoZ? Thinking about going with the Titan and usually they have sets that people came up with but for WoZ, to my surprise, it reflect none!
With all the color, it looks pretty good in black.
Quoted from pinballinreno:With all the color, it looks pretty good in black.
Yeah I am debating the color as I think it would take away from the game. Figured if WoZ owners that did use color and would post picture that would help me decide.
So I had one of the automotive miniblade fuses blow on my I/O board a few days ago. HIPPY and LTG helped me track down my issue. When I pulled them out to replace them, there was a "1" on the top (1 amp). I bought the game new so I assumed this was factory. I ordered the 1 Amp miniblades on Amazon. Installed them and everything came back on... for a couple days.
While playing the other night, the game became very dark during game play. I noticed there was no topper light and the spots were out. After removing the service panel cover, I saw that fuse 713 was out on the I/O board. Made total sense because the manual says 713 (2amp slow blow) fuses the topper, Wizard head, spot lights and the start button. I replaced the 713 fuse and it again blew right away.
BUT I noticed the manual calls for 2 amp miniblade fuses in the lower right corner of the I/O board. The originals that I pulled and replaced were 1 amp. Could this be just a coincidence? Or do I need to replace them with 2 amp automotive miniblades first, before I track down the Fuse 713 issue? Could one be causing the other?
Any thoughts?
Quoted from hd60609:Any thoughts?
I checked every JJP manual. WOZ is different. F1 and F2 are both Slow Blow 2 AMP 32 V Mini Blade fuses.
So it was increased at the factory. I'd go with the 2 AMP ones.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:I checked every JJP manual. WOZ is different. F1 and F2 are both Slow Blow 2 AMP 32 V Mini Blade fuses.
So it was increased at the factory. I'd go with the 2 AMP ones.
LTG : )
Thank you. Do you think this could be tied to the 713 fuse blowing? Or do I need to start checking voltages on all the 713 fused items? Seems odd, because none of those items were modded or giving me problems before...
Quoted from hd60609:Do you think this could be tied to the 713 fuse blowing?
Yes.
Quoted from hd60609:Or do I need to start checking voltages on all the 713 fused items?
I'd get the right fuses in there first and then see where you are at. Most likely okay.
LTG : )
Quoted from eb94114:Lloyd, I finally got around to putting some 3-in-1 oil on the shaker where you suggested. Unfortunately, I still get the high-pitched squeaking/whining sound. I get that same sound even if I just manually move the shaker around a revolution or two. Any other thoughts on what I might try? Thanks.
I used "tri flo"
A lil expensive, but never heard that whining again!
Quoted from hd60609:So I had one of the automotive miniblade fuses blow on my I/O board a few days ago. hippy and LTG helped me track down my issue. When I pulled them out to replace them, there was a "1" on the top (1 amp). I bought the game new so I assumed this was factory. I ordered the 1 Amp miniblades on Amazon. Installed them and everything came back on... for a couple days.
While playing the other night, the game became very dark during game play. I noticed there was no topper light and the spots were out. After removing the service panel cover, I saw that fuse 713 was out on the I/O board. Made total sense because the manual says 713 (2amp slow blow) fuses the topper, Wizard head, spot lights and the start button. I replaced the 713 fuse and it again blew right away.
BUT I noticed the manual calls for 2 amp miniblade fuses in the lower right corner of the I/O board. The originals that I pulled and replaced were 1 amp. Could this be just a coincidence? Or do I need to replace them with 2 amp automotive miniblades first, before I track down the Fuse 713 issue? Could one be causing the other?
Any thoughts?
Do you have any mods on the game that pull power from the 12VDC IO board?
I forgot because they were installed a couple years ago with no issues, so I went to check. I have splitters on the 12v line.
1) the topper (original line)
2) lighted flipper buttons
3) lighted trough
4) lighted State Fair ballon
Again, the game played fine for a couple years with these mods on. Can these things change their draw over time? I looked for obvious shorts but didn't see any. I was under the playfield and in the service panel a lot recently. Maybe I stressed something? I have the proper 2amp miniblade fuses coming tomorrow. I guess if I blow the 713 again, I can unplug all the mods to see if the problems continue and add them one at a time.
Quoted from hd60609:I can unplug all the mods to see if the problems continue and add them one at a time.
Good plan. Help sort out if too many or one drawing more current than before.
LTG : )
Quoted from hd60609:I forgot because they were installed a couple years ago with no issues, so I went to check. I have splitters on the 12v line.
1) the topper (original line)
2) lighted flipper buttons
3) lighted trough
4) lighted State Fair ballon
Again, the game played fine for a couple years with these mods on. Can these things change their draw over time? I looked for obvious shorts but didn't see any. I was under the playfield and in the service panel a lot recently. Maybe I stressed something? I have the proper 2amp miniblade fuses coming tomorrow. I guess if I blow the 713 again, I can unplug all the mods to see if the problems continue and add them one at a time.
What can happen is the 12VDC can (theoretically) drop voltage over time which will cause more current to flow and blow a fuse. It's also possible as LEDs in those mods age they begin to draw a little more power. But if you double the fuse size (as the factory eventually did) I seriously doubt you'll blow that fuse unless something is really wrong.
Quoted from bobukcat:What can happen is the 12VDC can (theoretically) drop voltage over time which will cause more current to flow and blow a fuse. It's also possible as LEDs in those mods age they begin to draw a little more power. But if you double the fuse size (as the factory eventually did) I seriously doubt you'll blow that fuse unless something is really wrong.
Thank you. I'll check the LED in the State Fair Balloon specifically. LEDs are supposed to last a long, long time and they do last longer than incandescents but I've seen my share of plenty of LEDs that have gone out and I've had to replace on our games.
How’s goin crew hope all well!! Does anyone know how many RR have been produced to date ? I’ve been searching n can’t find the answer to that.Thanks for your help .
Quoted from meSz:Yeah I am debating the color as I think it would take away from the game. Figured if WoZ owners that did use color and would post picture that would help me decide.
3 WoZ and I've done the color matched kit on all of them. It looks factory IMHO.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from harryhoudini:3 WoZ and I've done the color matched kit on all of them. It looks factory IMHO. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You're crazy, the color on that last picture isn't even close to a match for EC or RR!
Quoted from harryhoudini:3 WoZ and I've done the color matched kit on all of them. It looks factory IMHO. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Harry, thanks for the post. Any chance you have a list of the different colors and sizes you ordered? Also, what rubbers did you use?
How’s goin peeps.I was looking for some help I just replaced rub on sling under munchkinland and I’m down to getting the lock nut on the tornado screw closest to ball lock ...I was wondering if I can take a screw out of the tornado to twist it sideways to achieve that or is there a locknut on the inside of the tornado that will fall .Thanks for any help much appreciated
57700D7D-9074-48A4-B454-3B421AB1CEB4 (resized).jpegQuoted from Kkoss24:How’s goin peeps.I was looking for some help I just replaced rub on sling under munchkinland and I’m down to getting the lock nut on the tornado screw closest to ball lock ...I was wondering if I can take a screw out of the tornado to twist it sideways to achieve that or is there a locknut on the inside of the tornado that will fall .Thanks for any help much appreciated
[quoted image]
I dont have that mod but I would be surprised if it had a locknut inside of it.... Just my 2 cents..
Quoted from Kkoss24:Thanks for any help much appreciated
I'd try removing one screw. If it starts coming out and looks like a sheet metal screw, keep going. If it turns and doesn't come out, then there is probably a lock nut inside.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:I'd try removing one screw. If it starts coming out and looks like a sheet metal screw, keep going. If it turns and doesn't come out, then there is probably a lock nut inside.
LTG : )
Thanks buddy
Quoted from meSz:Harry, thanks for the post. Any chance you have a list of the different colors and sizes you ordered? Also, what rubbers did you use?
Titan has a database on their site, you can find the WoZ listing there at the top even. There are a few kits, one of them is a color matched one. I ordered some other rubbers in addition to the kit to have some options but I don't know which were not part of the kit and which were for other games, so if I post what I ordered you'll end up with a bunch of extra crap.
I am fairly sure the manual has the rubbers listed so you can compare against what is in the kit if you want to switch up colors.
So long story short- I had a chance to buy a NIB RR #565 (Tracy is currently selling) on the site but she was 1 hr late or her pin would be on the way to my home. I purchased a NIB YBR and could not be any happier. I’m glad I did as the members trying to sell the used pins were right at the price of the new one I bought- that was a no brainer to get a problem free non used pin. I made a perfect decision and numbered to 200 will be nice down the rd. My number is #25
Jp.
What's the deal with the bonus multiplier? Is there something that has to be done for the multiplier to be available? I can complete both lanes and get nothing, fairly often, it seems, but I can figure out what has to be done to "activate" it again. I'll get 3x and 4x and have no idea what was different about the lane completion those times.
Quoted from Pinball69:So long story short- I had a chance to buy a NIB RR #565 (Tracy is currently selling) on the site but she was 1 hr late or her pin would be on the way to my home. I purchased a NIB YBR and could not be any happier. I’m glad I did as the members trying to sell the used pins were right at the price of the new one I bought- that was a no brainer to get a problem free non used pin. I made a perfect decision and numbered to 200 will be nice down the rd. My number is #25
Jp.
Congrats and welcome to the club!
I’m having some issues on my Oz. At the end of every game, or after I open and close the coin door, the munchkin multiball lock arm is kicking 11 times. Every time I shoot the ball into the munchkin ball lock it recognizes it, does the ball lock cut scene on the screen, but doesn’t even attempt to put a ball in the shooter lane. It then starts shooting two balls into play. Does the lock arm kicking 11 times signal a code for something?
Quoted from MooButt:I’m having some issues on my Oz. At the end of every game, or after I open and close the coin door, the munchkin multiball lock arm is kicking 11 times. Every time I shoot the ball into the munchkin ball lock it recognizes it, does the ball lock cut scene on the screen, but doesn’t even attempt to put a ball in the shooter lane. It then starts shooting two balls into play. Does the lock arm kicking 11 times signal a code for something?
I've seen coils go berserk when the related opto isn't working properly. As in, if you unplug the throne room opto, for example, the VUK will go nuts. So, I would check the switch test for the 3 optos in the lock, the optos in the trough and the shooter lane switch if this were happening to me.
Quoted from harryhoudini:What's the deal with the bonus multiplier? Is there something that has to be done for the multiplier to be available? I can complete both lanes and get nothing, fairly often, it seems, but I can figure out what has to be done to "activate" it again. I'll get 3x and 4x and have no idea what was different about the lane completion those times.
The bonus multiplier is always available to be advanced until you reach the maximum multiplier level (I think max is 10x but not sure). To go to the next level you need to roll two Oz lanes. You can switch which lane is lit with the flippers, making it possible to advance the multiplier by rolling the same lane twice (thanks to the slingshot under the munchkin playfied.) first time through light the lane, then users flippers to change the lit lane and second time through both are lit and the bonus advances. It may be possible that the bonus advance will happen without the graphic displaying due to the screen being tied up with other graphics/displays. So don't think you didn't get the bonus advance just because the video didn't play.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I've seen coils go berserk when the related opto isn't working properly. As in, if you unplug the throne room opto, for example, the VUK will go nuts. So, I would check the switch test for the 3 optos in the lock, the optos in the trough and the shooter lane switch if this were happening to me.
Thanks, I’ll check them tonight. Got the light boards, worked great, thank you.
Quoted from jasonbar:Glinda tried to knock my initials off the high score board. My scores are safe...for now...
[quoted image]
Hey, thats a nice little stool there. Where did you get it? Ive been looking for a cheap one so that my daughter can play. She looks to be about the same age and has a Dorothy costume haha.
Quoted from Rager170:Hey, thats a nice little stool there. Where did you get it? Ive been looking for a cheap one so that my daughter can play. She looks to be about the same age and has a Dorothy costume haha.
I don't recall where that blue stool came from, but we have a few of these & like them quite a bit. Small, fold flat, carry handle, solid, lots of fun colors:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07QPZYRB8
Thanks,
-Jason
Quoted from fnosm:The bonus multiplier is always available to be advanced until you reach the maximum multiplier level (I think max is 10x but not sure). To go to the next level you need to roll two Oz lanes. You can switch which lane is lit with the flippers, making it possible to advance the multiplier by rolling the same lane twice (thanks to the slingshot under the munchkin playfied.) first time through light the lane, then users flippers to change the lit lane and second time through both are lit and the bonus advances. It may be possible that the bonus advance will happen without the graphic displaying due to the screen being tied up with other graphics/displays. So don't think you didn't get the bonus advance just because the video didn't play.
Humm... now I'll have to pay attention to the Bonus recap at the end of the ball better. I am fairly sure, on more than one WoZ, I've not gotten bonus multipliers while completing the lanes many times. No real video elements going on at the same time. Would be nice to have tilts and bonus shown on the screen fulltime.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Humm... now I'll have to pay attention to the Bonus recap at the end of the ball better. I am fairly sure, on more than one WoZ, I've not gotten bonus multipliers while completing the lanes many times. No real video elements going on at the same time. Would be nice to have tilts and bonus shown on the screen fulltime.
The bonus multiplier is not very lucrative for WOZ as it doesn’t apply to parts of your bonus like munchkin mode points. What is much more lucrative is the HOADC multiplier.
I just ordered one of your YBR witch mod- thx
What else is there to buy???
I don’t get my pin until next week.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Humm... now I'll have to pay attention to the Bonus recap at the end of the ball better. I am fairly sure, on more than one WoZ, I've not gotten bonus multipliers while completing the lanes many times. No real video elements going on at the same time. Would be nice to have tilts and bonus shown on the screen fulltime.
Quoted from Pinball69:What else is there to buy???
If your machine doesn't have one, get the cliffy munchkinland playfield protector and install it before plunging your first ball.
Thanks, I want to order everything for it.
Quoted from fnosm:If your machine doesn't have one, get the cliffy munchkinland playfield protector and install it before plunging your first ball.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/WOZ.htm
Quoted from Pinball69:I just ordered one of your YBR witch mod- thx
What else is there to buy???
I don’t get my pin until next week.[quoted image]
I recommend everything
Quoted from harryhoudini:I recommend everything
https://pinballmods.co/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods
Do not buy anything from this guy!
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/219?hl=mrmikeman and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.