Whoops thanks Lloyd. Must have forgotten them during the build somehow. I'll contact support and see how I go.
Whoops thanks Lloyd. Must have forgotten them during the build somehow. I'll contact support and see how I go.
Quoted from Kkoss24:I’m going to try the glue fix .I was pushing in it and started changing colors ...then if fails I’ll have to decide .I have heard the 2.0 subpar to the 7.5 any thoughts on this .I appreciate u guys thanks !
The GIs on 2.0 are less bright, I would actually say obscure compared to the 7,5v. It's clearly a drawback. JJP said they will come up with a software fix but we haven't seen it yet.
But the added reliability is a no brainer to me, I switched to 2.0 when I was either buying the Tin man board for 300$ or getting the 2.0 full kit for 800. I also was tired of praying for the pinball to lit up everytime I was turning it on or lifting the playfield to diagnose a dead light and replace it.
So the benefit of the 2.0 is quite unmatchable IMO.
Quoted from hlaj78:Has anyone tried repairing non-2.0 boards when they go bad?
I re-soldered / re-flowed several but it was always just a temporary reprieve. I thought about replacing the actual LED but I don't think that's what fails and the driver chip is apparently obsolete / unavailable so I never even tried to find one to attempt a replacement.
Quoted from adol75:The GIs on 2.0 are less bright, I would actually say obscure compared to the 7,5v. It's clearly a drawback. JJP said they will come up with a software fix but we haven't seen it yet.
But the added reliability is a no brainer to me, I switched to 2.0 when I was either buying the Tin man board for 300$ or getting the 2.0 full kit for 800. I also was tired of praying for the pinball to lit up everytime I was turning it on or lifting the playfield to diagnose a dead light and replace it.
So the benefit of the 2.0 is quite unmatchable IMO.
Thanks ,since it still works as should (just NB stay red) I’m going to keep looking if anyone is selling they’re 7.5 sets that upgraded to 2.0 .lmk I’m interested in purchasing the rainbow only will decide later which way to go depending on the previously stated software fix with the 2.0
I’m having a weird new problem with our EC. I installed the Pinball Mods witch and now the witch melted optical switch 23 and oddly Throne room VUK optical switch aren’t working.
I plugged them into different locations on their respective board and they worked. So it seems like there is a problem at the board. It seems odd because they are different optical boards and not related to the witch at all.
So, could two separate optical boards just go bad all of a sudden at the exact same time?
Could the mod be messing up something? Although I can’t figure out what.
Or could it be a power issue? I read that some people suggest using an external dedicated paper supply in JJP games cause the power supply is finicky if you start adding mods. Have other people had issues adding mods? I have quite a few mods and have daisy chained a bunch of power leads into the factory harness.
Any thoughts?
Quoted from Nugilo92:I’m having a weird new problem with our EC. I installed the Pinball Mods witch and now the witch melted optical switch 23 and oddly Throne room VUK optical switch aren’t working.
I plugged them into different locations on their respective board and they worked. So it seems like there is a problem at the board. It seems odd because they are different optical boards and not related to the witch at all.
So, could two separate optical boards just go bad all of a sudden at the exact same time?
Could the mod be messing up something? Although I can’t figure out what.
Or could it be a power issue? I read that some people suggest using an external dedicated paper supply in JJP games cause the power supply is finicky if you start adding mods. Have other people had issues adding mods? I have quite a few mods and have daisy chained a bunch of power leads into the factory harness.
Any thoughts?
The question would be did you have these issues before adding these pinball witch mods? If not, can you go Back to the way the game was to see if the issue is resolved. Would definitely answer the question, is it the last thing I did.
Quoted from Nugilo92:I’m having a weird new problem with our EC. I installed the Pinball Mods witch and now the witch melted optical switch 23 and oddly Throne room VUK optical switch aren’t working.
I plugged them into different locations on their respective board and they worked. So it seems like there is a problem at the board. It seems odd because they are different optical boards and not related to the witch at all.
So, could two separate optical boards just go bad all of a sudden at the exact same time?
Could the mod be messing up something? Although I can’t figure out what.
Or could it be a power issue? I read that some people suggest using an external dedicated paper supply in JJP games cause the power supply is finicky if you start adding mods. Have other people had issues adding mods? I have quite a few mods and have daisy chained a bunch of power leads into the factory harness.
Any thoughts?
Both are on the same row and have white/blue wire in common, trace that wire everywhere it goes and make sure it's not broken, my bet is that it is.
I have the certificate in there slot on the apron but it’s black on the right side of the apron. Has anyone made any custom cars
I just joined the club and have the Emerald City edition. The issue I’m havingis when the monkey flies down to grab the ball he hangs on to it. I b assume once he gets up top he drops it right way in the castle. My monkey will hold it until it goes into ball search then he releases it. Any ideas?
Quoted from Yesh23:I just joined the club and have the Emerald City edition. The issue I’m havingis when the monkey flies down to grab the ball he hangs on to it. I b assume once he gets up top he drops it right way in the castle. My monkey will hold it until it goes into ball search then he releases it. Any ideas?
Balls magnetized?
Quoted from Yesh23:I just joined the club and have the Emerald City edition. The issue I’m havingis when the monkey flies down to grab the ball he hangs on to it. I b assume once he gets up top he drops it right way in the castle. My monkey will hold it until it goes into ball search then he releases it. Any ideas?
I have that sometimes. My monkey releases the ball when I hit the flipper buttons
Quoted from Yesh23:My monkey will hold it until it goes into ball search then he releases it. Any ideas?
Yup. Put a piece of black electricians tape on the traveling monkey magnet pole. It's become magnetized. This is an easy fix.
LTG : )
Quoted from adol75:My monkey releases the ball when I hit the flipper buttons
Mine is the same way. Why would hitting the flipper button make the monkey drop the ball? Doesn't seem like nearly enough vibration.
Also, as long as we're talking magnets, my Glinda and Dorothy magnet under the house exit sometimes doesn't activate properly. For example, sometimes after saving the ball via completing TNPLH, the ball will just keep rolling after dropping through the spinning house exit hole. Not always, just sometimes. Any idea why?
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Why would hitting the flipper button make the monkey drop the ball? Doesn't seem like nearly enough vibration.
The traveling monkey magnet pole is magnetized. Hitting a flipper button is enough to make him drop the ball.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Yup. Put a piece of black electricians tape on the traveling monkey magnet pole. It's become magnetized. This is an easy fix.
LTG : )
I don't understand where you put the tape. Do you roll it around the whole pole and leave it there ?
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Also, as long as we're talking magnets, my Glinda and Dorothy magnet under the house exit sometimes doesn't activate properly. For example, sometimes after saving the ball via completing TNPLH, the ball will just keep rolling after dropping through the spinning house exit hole. Not always, just sometimes. Any idea why?
Watch the ball as it exits. Does it drop in the same place each time, or does it sometimes get dropped a bit to the left? If the latter, this is an issue with how that upper playfield is leveled. You can tighten the nut on the right hand side that holds the playfield to the support posts, or loosen the nuts on the left just a bit. This will tilt the playfield slightly more to the right, making the ball more consistently land where it is supposed to and be caught by the magnet.
Does anyone know what volt the 2 spotlight bulbs are? I’m thinking 13 volt because I put a 6.3 volt bulb in there and it started smoking. If it’s a 13 volt I should be able to but an 8 way Comet flashes in there to brighten up the playfield
Quoted from Yesh23:Does anyone know what volt the 2 spotlight bulbs are? I’m thinking 13 volt because I put a 6.3 volt bulb in there and it started smoking. If it’s a 13 volt I should be able to but an 8 way Comet flashes in there to brighten up the playfield
They are 12v leds
Quoted from pinballinreno:They are 12v leds
So a Comet 12 volt flasher should work?
Quoted from adol75:I don't understand where you put the tape. Do you roll it around the whole pole and leave it there ?
Right across the top of the pole in the magnet.
LTG : )
DSC00291 (resized).JPGDSC00292 (resized).JPGQuoted from teddyb73:Hey gang,
Looking for a WOZ Standard or an Emerald City with the 7.5 boards, if anyone was thinking about selling theirs.
Thanks,
Ted
Not sure which light boards but worth inquiring:
Not sure which light boards but worth inquiring:
This guy wants $7000 and you have to move it out of his basement on Long Island NY and he has a spiral staircase.
and he also stated once you break it down and start moving it you're liable for anything that happens going up the spiral staircase. What a joke.
I wish the guy in New York wasn't a butthead with me moving it out of his basement with a spiral staircase. Unfortunately California is too far. But thanks.
Quoted from teddyb73:I wish the guy in New York wasn't a butthead with me moving it out of his basement with a spiral staircase. Unfortunately California is too far. But thanks.
Wait a sec...I have a spiral staircase to my basement but I also have a Bilco entrance. This guy doesn't have any Bilco entrance to his basement? That's a really dickish design for a house. How can you get anything up and down?
Here's an idea for you: Offer him $7200 and tell him he has to move it up the stairs and he's liable for any damage, and it's a deal. If nobody else feels like schlepping the machine up the stairs with his stupid proviso, I bet he circles back to you and takes the deal.
Quoted from teddyb73:I wish the guy in New York wasn't a butthead with me moving it out of his basement with a spiral staircase. Unfortunately California is too far. But thanks.
If the seller will pallet, STI has been pretty good for me so far. My WOZ came from TN->TX via STI.
Man I’m having a hard time removing back glass to access the back box , don’t u just turn the key and lift the translite up ? It doesn’t even budge any help ?
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Man I’m having a hard time removing back glass to access the back box , don’t u just turn the key and lift the translite up ? It doesn’t even budge any help ?
Probably just stuck to the paint. As my father used to say, jiggle it a little.
Oh and my key is horizontal when it is unlocked.
Or you could get a hammer!
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Man I’m having a hard time removing back glass to access the back box , don’t u just turn the key and lift the translite up ? It doesn’t even budge any help ?
Mine is Also very tight.
The slot on early runs was a little narrow, so they forced the glass in with a block of wood and a mallet.
Repeatedly smacking the glass very firmly with palms, in an upward motion got it out.
Hammering with a block of wood and a plastic hammer on the trim channel got it back down.
I probably should have relieved the rear edge of the slot a bit with a file, but i didn't do it yet.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Mine is Also very tight.
The slot on early runs was a little narrow, so they forced the glass in with a block of wood and a mallet.
Repeatedly smacking the glass very firmly with palms, in an upward motion got it out.
Hammering with a block of wood and a plastic hammer on the trim channel got it back down.
I probably should have relieved the rear edge of the slot a bit with a file, but i didn't do it yet.
Ugh, I wont mess with it , I was hoping to put some led around the trim to make backglass pop more, but I have a feeling all im going to do is break the glass.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Ugh, I wont mess with it , I was hoping to put some led around the trim to make backglass pop more, but I have a feeling all im going to do is break the glass.
The glass is pretty strong.
But yeah, it thakes a but of beating it up to get it out.
Having a small issue with the Bilbo ramp entrance. Upon turning the machine on getting switch closed error. Long story short if I move the wiring close to the OPTO IQ Board the switch opens and closes. So issues appears to be close to the connector and not the optos. Anyone have this issue before?
Quoted from meSz:Having a small issue with the Bilbo ramp entrance. Upon turning the machine on getting switch closed error. Long story short if I move the wiring close to the OPTO IQ Board the switch opens and closes. So issues appears to be close to the connector and not the optos. Anyone have this issue before?
I haven't had any issues with the bilbo ramp in my woz.
Quoted from meSz:Having a small issue with the Bilbo ramp entrance. Upon turning the machine on getting switch closed error. Long story short if I move the wiring close to the OPTO IQ Board the switch opens and closes. So issues appears to be close to the connector and not the optos. Anyone have this issue before?
I just finished changing 2 optos,under the spinning house. I had a check switch 12 and 13, house cannot find home. Bad part, had to pull the munchkin playfield. Good, is it fixed it. If you have switch errors on an opto, check it out. You can order them from JJP. Yours sounds like something is loose, though.
Quoted from Doctor6:I haven't had any issues with the bilbo ramp in my woz.
Only certain WOZs built after December 2017 came with the bilbo ramp. It was the special Smaug Emerald edition.
Quoted from HIPPY:Yours sounds like something is loose, though.
Yeah I reseated the connector to no avail.
And apologies as I posted in wrong thread.
Quoted from meSz:And apologies as I posted in wrong thread.
We know. We’re just giving you a hard time in a friendly way.
Quoted from Nokoro:We know. We’re just giving you a hard time in a friendly way.
I GOT FEELINGS DAMN IT
So, I posted a while back about several problems I had with our ruby red we got last october. Round 2of the WOZ demon, went to turn on the pin this eve, hums, and no boot. Took off back glass, red lights on board, no fuses blown, now what...... Checked fuse on power supply, all good. even change outlets on the wall, nothing. Any thoughts on what to look for? Just want this thing to work 100% for once........
Mike
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Man I’m having a hard time removing back glass to access the back box , don’t u just turn the key and lift the translite up ? It doesn’t even budge any help ?
I've had this happen on a couple of pins. Either it is getting stuck to the paint, the trim doesn't fit well, the lock isn't turning properly, or there is some type of debris blocking it.
Make sure the key fully turns. You can use graphite if it isn't.
Try gently sliding one side of the BG upwards, and then try the other side.
You can also try sliding the BG left or right...very gently, of course.
If it is debris, you can take a hand-vac and go around the edges to suck up any wood, glass, etc.
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