That or check Harbor Freight if there is one in your area. I got mine for like $8 or so.

True on the flasher... but when left in an adjustable color mode, they couldn't keep up with the fantastic swirls of color native to the game. And all white or all red washed it out too much.

Again, just my opinion. I think some well-placed spotlights are a better option.

I Just hate working with heat, during chem class that stupid bunson burner would always get me.

I'm trying to get my WOZ all dialed in. I have a few issues that I hope you all can help diagnose.

1. See video at link - https://www.facebook.com/OasisArcadeAirBnB/videos/354473365514415/
The right castle door does not do anything. A "grinding" sound happens when doors activate. Sounds like two gears not meshing properly? In test mode, only the RIGHT door "box" indicator is lit up ...to indicate the right door is working correctly I assume?... Yet, it's the LEFT door that's actually opening and the left door test "box" doesn't light up. see pic or video. Something's screwy.

2. See pic- On the left and right of the castle saucer are 2 pointed metal posts that do not have rubber rings on them. Should they have rings?

3. See pic - Ball gets stuck on top of target often. Is this adjustable?

THANKS!

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Yes, I believe there's a screw underneath that moves it up and down

the castle door post is loose on its motor shaft, hence the grinding noise.
Remove the castle playfiled and tighten the motor shaft screws. There is no other way to do this.
Fortunately the manual is EXCELLENT on how to remove it.

The right door should rest 1/32" lower than the left, they are not supposed to be perfectly aligned.

The posts behind the doors do not have rubber rings on them.

The winkie drop target is either loose from the playfield and sagging, or needs the drop target raised via its adjustment screw at the bottom of the mech, or both

It should rest perfectly flat to the playfield surface. use a metal 6" ruler across the playfiled wooden slot to verify its level when adjusting it.

1 - if motor is turning and door isn't, the two set screws on the shaft are loose. Remove door, remove castle playfield. Drop motor/shaft to get at them. Directions in the manual to remove the castle playfield. Diagram of single or double doors has arrows to where set screws are.

2 - no

3 - under the playfield at bottom of drop target assembly is a nut and screw. Loosen nut, turn screw to raise or lower drop target. Tighten nut. Check switch, it may need adjusting after raising or lowering drop target. Loosen screws a tiny bit and turn the switch body as needed. Retighten screws - not too tight.

LTG : )

Does anybody know who owns Edition #52 of the Ruby Red WOZ???

If there is any damage whatsoever to the wood you'll need to do more than just "peel" the old decals off and apply the new ones. You'll also want to make sure the the cabinet is completely smooth and even because any little imperfection will show once you put the new decals on.

It’s just the decal, has a small rip in it. Tiny, but enough to bother me.

Heat gun, careful not enough to heat melt anything, but pretty hot, and a scraper. If you get the temperature right the decal will peel of in large pieces. Go slow.

remove excess glue on the wood with rapid-tac adhesive remover. clean of excess with naptha on a rag.

Dont scrape heavily and chew up the wood or you will have to do more work to fix it up.

Or do it the HACK way and sand the decal a bit where its damaged, roll out any wrinkles with a hard rubber brayer and put the new decal over the old and be done with it.

Umm.. maybe Ill just leave it alone. . Thanks for advice though.

Thanks! I'm not great at reading directions from a manual. Are there any videos on how to remove the upper PF to get at the door mechanism underneath? Kind of like the JJP upper sling rubber replacement video? That was very helpful today. But I still think a 2" rubber there is way too tight and maybe why they keep breaking on this game?!

I'd hate to take a bunch of stuff off that doesn't need to come off.

The directions come with diagrams and are very detailed. No video that I know of.

Yes, WOZ is a great game and a lot of fun. However, just an observation as this is your First pin and only pin you may want try some of the other Thousands of amazing games that are out there before deciding this is the only one lol. I will bet Every person on this forum felt the exact same about their First pin. Only space and $$$$ will confirm that decision.

WOZ was my first pin, and I still feel the same way as him.

Taste does vary wildly, but having owned a dozen games (7 currently) only WOZ and Stern ST premium are bolted to my floor. I also recommend playing in a league once the pandemic is over. Leagues are a great way to gain regular exposure to a wider variety of machines.

Me and my 2 boys all are picking a new pin 4 is my limit for space .I made them deal I’ll look for all 3 but best deal decides what comes next .My 12 year old wants FG I made a couple calls but price wasn’t right.My 11 year old wants DP the prices are still a little high I’d imagine there will be another run of those so I’ll wait that out for price drops .Sooooo that leaves me picking up my pick tomarro morning!!!! The price was right .All 3 of these will be available to trade/sell for others as wanted only rule I told them has to stay here 1 year .Also my friend is giving me his MET to being home to clean up and sell for him will get to play that awile.Its about to get very loud here!!!

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I agree I want to join a league but not until work slows down .I work my reg job some OT but I’m taking on a lot of side work to pay for these and the membership in riviera maya(deal with my wife so I can buy these 4 pins it’s a win/win).Im on a small break right now from that trying to finish my basement .This hobby has me highly motivated !!!

Back to the subject how woukd I see what lighting system I have ,I’ve been looking .Born 11/25/15.Ive been buying stuff I need and some mods to install going to clean/wax machine take my time and do it right and all at once .I have 2 issues only besides lil stuff I’ve been on here before with it and kept all sent to me through emails thanks to all .They are out of LED strip for the wizzard which is problem 1 that’s easy enough .Problem 2 is the NB in rainbow stay red and I want to be 100% sure that I need new board I’m looking for any advice on a McGiver tyke fix for this thss as is again and best to all!!!

The Scarecrow, Tin Man and Cowardly Lion sure have changed and don't even get me started on what happened to Dorothy here!

Looking for recommendations (links) for art blades for WoZ.

Which one do you have

Pingraffix has a nice one I just purchased. Like $88 shipped

I have the ECLE

This one

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Thanks! Not finding any others that look better then these.

haha, ive ruined like 8 sets between different machines. I dont see how anyone is able to do this without removing the playfield. You certainly have more skills than me...

I have a set of these that I essentially figure Ill never put in.

You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com if you need it.

Page C-54 is the data harness older version. Page E-24 shows the 2.0 . Compare to what is under your playfield.

Easiest is if you see a bunch of ethernet cables under there, you have the 2.0

LTG : )

Thank you LTG I’ve been told to download that I just havnt had time I’m swamped w work right now .

Guys my sound is really horrible going in and out and low volume and clues ? Also my left tree bumper doesn’t seem to work again

Does the coil work in test mode? Does the switch register in test mode? If the switch doesn’t register, check if the wires are connected and haven’t broken loose from that switch and others in the same column on the switch matrix. A common switch for the wires to break off is the skill shot target, as the wire can snag when you are raising and lowering the playfield. This can take out other switches in that same column.

I actually just had my Glenda target switch re-soldered just now by my pinball tech, must have knocked something else loose up there, I will have him look at it next time he comes, thanks!

As for your left tree bumper, make sure it is not caught up on the side of cabinet. I actually have to lower my playfield while pushing slightly to the right in order for my left tree to clear the cabinet. If I just lower my playfield straight down, my left tree gets caught up and locks where you cannot even push it down. There is almost no clearance between that pop bumper and the cabinet and it can get caught up very easily. I have learned that I always check that left tree after I lower my playfield and I always lower it while pushing the playfield to the right in order to seat it with enough clearance for that tree.

That may not be your problem, but that is mine and figured I would suggest that solution.

I've had that a lot too. It took me a bunch of times to figure how to hold it when lowering the playfield.

An easy way to see if that's your problem is to remove the glass and tap on the tree, if he doesn't move it means he is stuck against the cabinet. In that case you shouldn't wait for your next tech visit, I'm worried it might bend the bracket if it stays stuck too long.

Or, it could hit the rail and possibly send 70v into your switch matrix frying your I/O board. Please see this post for something that everyone should check next time they lift the playfield:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/149#post-4983796

Check the RCA connections going to the CPU metal box. Reseat them.

Bypass the ground loop isolator and see if the sound improves.

They seem to go bad sometimes.

Man what would I do without pinside . Replacing that sound box with a new version mentioned here from amazon fixed that , the left tree was stuck on the cabinet I think now it’s free !

Ah but now I have a nonfunctioning rescue e switch

This is exactly what fixed my sound issue last night. The sound level of the voices kept dropping to barely audible then come back. This would happen from time to time the last 6 months and reseating rca cables would always fix it until recently.

I don’t hear any hum, static, or background noise after bypassing the ground loop isolator. Is it even needed?

Are you sure it doesn’t function? If it came up in a test report, it probably just means you haven’t hit it in a while. Go into switch test mode and check.

I did this a while ago when I had the same problem. Hope it helps.

I had a weird and unexpected WOZ ECLE problem tonight. I locked a ball and the game treated it like a drain. THen the next several games, the game went crazy. The castle doors would flap now and then, the house would spin and halt, and the flippers would die.

I believe for a tiny split second I even saw a red error about "all trough optos open."

This repeated for several games, I'd plunge and after only a few switch hits the flippers would die. I even went into switch test (trough optos looked fine) but flipping the flippers would occasionally die for 4-5 seconds.

Anyone have troubleshooting tips for this one?

What??? Not a lot of details here!!!

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I think I found the answer, searching pinside revealed a loose crystal ball cable can cause this and mine turned out to be 1/2 off when I checked it.

WOOT

Is it normal for the crystal ball video to freeze ? During my awesome game yesterday all it showed was a horse the whole time

Yes, that is normal. You can just wait it out and it will eventually reset or power cycle the game.

Others will say you can try reseating the SD card in the crystal ball, but that never has worked for me..

You may see a few strange things from the crystal ball. I get coding showing sometimes, other strange things that I dont even know how to explain. But again, I have been told by JJP this is normal.

What is the ground loop insulator? Mine has been doing the same as of recent.

Its the box that connects the 3.5mm line. Looks something like this.

But im surprised that would cause voice issues and such. Ground Loop Isolators are to keep humms and static noises out of speakers.

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