or see pictures, depending which motherboard.

No. Very rare can happen on it's own. Or if the game is turned on and then off before fully booting up.

LTG : )

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In the picture of the mainboard close-up, the power switch pins are boxed. A quick jumping and un-jumping will start the computer.

Just touch the pair with a small screwdriver or paperclip.

Its very low voltage, you wont hurt anything.

The ones to the right are the reset pins, in case you have to do a reset.

If you look carefully on the very edge of the mainboard its printed as to what is what.

So I have this phenomenon that has happened twice. When playing a game and locking all the balls, sometimes the game doesn't know they're locked. Only happened during multiplayer. The game then does a ball search, but never checked the ball lock. The coil works great, but it doesn't lift up to find the ball. What the hell is this? Anyone see this before?

Have you eliminated magnetized balls sticking in the trough?

Check for cold solder joints on the wires on both coils under the munchkin huts.

Sometimes the wires are barely hanging on.

They need to be solidly attached.

Re-heat the connections with a little flux.

Poor connections there causes poor lock bar performance.

Sorry for the delayed reply. I had the same problem but found the spring stuck to the magnet of the speaker in the bottom of the cabinet. Look there.

I'm going to say 13 hours over the course of 3 days for us. Just very detailed. If we did it again we could probably pull it off in around 10 hours.

Guys. Everything works great all the other times. The coils are all working great. The switches all register. It is just on a multiplayer game every once in a while it simple doesn't know better. Ther than that only diverter coil works 100% of the time. Only happened twice which makes it much harder to pinpoint. I was thinking it could be software related, perhaps.

EDIT: I have a theory. In an attempt to eliminate the random extra ball slipping out when the ball lock let one go, I reduced the coil power.... I wonder if it is too low and maybe all three balls pushing against the gate is what is happening. I will try to increase the coil power and see of that's what is happening.

I mean maybe... but would the game lift the ball lock mech during search mode anyhow? I'll look into that option. Thank you.

Does anyone have close up pics of the powder coating for YBR?

Thanks. Looking for still pics of armor.

I’m pretty sure Lloyd has posted somewhere in here about other ways for ensuring the arm has strength enough to lift when three balls are being held behind it. There may be a mechanical adjustment to make as well, but I would have to defer to LTG

I scanned through here and saw something about bending the arm under... I'll try to increase power to normal first.

Make sure the big single screw that holds the lockbar/coil in place is tight before making any adjustments.
If its slightly loose, it affects the height.

The arm shouldnt move side to side at all.

Also to mention, aside from the coil power, I believe there is a timing setting for 1, 2 and 3rd balls for that arm to raise. I played with that a little and it helped my machine as I was sometimes having a ball let out.

Maybe that helps assuming that a ball is coming out when locked is the problem..

For those of us who don't want to possibly fry something by touching a screwdriver to the wrong pins... a computer jumper is the EXACT same size and works great!. Shut the game off. Slide the jumper over the 2 pins in lloyds diagram. Turn game back on. It will start and then quickly shut itself off. While it is off, remove the jumper and turn the game off and back on again. That's it.

Why in the world JJP doesn't put a reset switch on the coin door is beyond me?! Also, why doesn't JJP tech support mention this right off the bat when a customer complains of a dead game? This is a known issue that many customers have experienced.

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Some of the Newer games have a reset switch installed.

You can add one in if need be. But the problem isnt that pervasive.

Still, PC's have the button available on the cases.

Hey all, I put MM WOZ Pots on my pin and they really seem to wash out the OZ. Wondering if that's normal or if the LED strip is failing. I did align it under the original OZ plastic. Appreciate the help.

2.0 is not nearly as bright as 7.5. Just did install.

I have noticed some light issues with the WOZ ECLE I bought a few months ago and just wanted to ask if anyone has seen this before. I got the game from a great local pinsider who has been really helpful as I learn more about the game. He let me know that the light boards are the 7.5v un-buffered version. He said that over the last 6 years he blew 3 light boards (roughly 3 to 4 years ago), which were replaced with the 7.5v buffered boards. He noted no issues since then.

Last night I was playing a few games, and the lights looked a bit dimmer across the playfield. When I got to Toto Escapes, there was some faint yellow/white lights on the playfield, which I have never noticed before. There never seemed to be any lights on except for the flashing white indicating the Toto ramp shot. It all played fine, just seemed a bit weird.

Also, sometimes when the game is in attract mode, sitting idle, the lights on the playfield are the usual colors. Another day I have it on and they are the florescent type seen in the Lights On Crystal Ball mode. Is that typical?

Thanks for the help. I'm still getting used to all the game has to offer and just want to make sure things are as they should be and that I am not having any light board issues.

This is normal, I don't know how to describe the type of color other than refer to it as the quality of the light. When you get the second Toto shot there is a similar quality of the light but it is green. I really dig the light modes on this machine.

The attract modes are always changing. As long as they are changing (doesn't get stuck in a single mode) you are good to go. This game is a kick to watch even when it isn't being played.

The Mezel Mods throne room pots are too bright?? That seems very strange.

Maybe I am mixing something up?

Greatings!
I own a first edition of woz, (with the problematic gi boards) and I have someone to want to buy it.

The question is, YBR? Or RR?
Can't find a side by side comparition. I know ybr has no monkey.

What I should do? Seek for a RR? Or just buy a YBR?

Thank you very much fo your input.

They’re both beautiful machines, but if you have hope of finding a RR with the 2.0 light boards, I would go for that.

Aside from the cosmetic differences, it really does come down to the monkey mech, which I happen to like a lot.

I’m going to have a bias opinion but the monkey is one of the coolest things I’ve seen on a pin .RR has definitely been trending up

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Hey all, so looking for some help and back to JJP next week. Just upgraded my late '15 woz se to 2.0 from 7.5. Disappointment on how the 2.0 lighting was so dim. I did increase the led to high and it helped a bit, but very disappointing overall. 7.5 was much brighter in my opinion like many videos show.

Now I'm noticing as I mentioned earlier the munchkin land spotlight is half as bright as the castle one and OZ is barely green at all. I have woz pots on and thought the pots caused the issue, but I disconnected them today and just plugged in the lights as original. No difference. Then just tried the flood then the oz. No improvement. So that's problem 2.

Problem 3 is the machine did something totally weird today twice. Screen, flippers and start went out. Lights were on. Kinda like when your car runs out of gas and your stuck in neutral. Wow, just dated myself. Anyhow, I turned off pin and restarted. Played a game and same thing. Turned it off for a couple hours and have been playing problem free all night. As far as problem 3 goes.

#4: And as long as I'm here, the witch is really intermittent. Some days, lights all day long. Other days like tonight, didn't activate once. Switch test always show them as stuck. Saw another thread on that and will give adjusting plates a try.

Any advice on 1,2, 3 or 4? Was going look into pinstadium to help resolve 1 and nearly bought tonight, but that won't resolve the internal issues and not sure I want to glue onto pinblades or stick hovers on the board.

Barry at JJP thought it may have been a power issue for the lights, but gave me no direction on how to address after emailing back. Whating to hear back for a week now. Will try again next week with their move and all.

Game's amazing. Best out there in my opinion, and we are hoping for the best.

Thanks all.

Pinstadium FUSION arrived this week. > I need to hook this up ASAP! Anyone else have the fusion on their WOZ? I would love to see some videos.

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Be interested in your thoughts on the Fusion as the folks I’ve talked to have advised to use Pin Stadium in WoZ.

Whilst I was not a fan of these lights seeing Pin Stadium in a WoZ has me buying a set

Bad LED or LED strip, poor connection.

LTG : )

I’m having a couple odd problems with my WOZ Emerald City.

1. Balls are often getting stuck under the playfield. It seems like they are sticking to the rail just about directly below the castle doors. Seems like a magnetic thing to me. It’s a hard area to see and shaking the game does nothing to release them. They seem to come loose just suddenly and seemingly randomly. But game won’t allow a new ball launch while that ball is ‘stuck.’ Any thoughts as to what is causing that? I haven’t removed the castle playfield yet, but that’s my next step. How hard is that?

2. Almost every time I hit the right flipper button, the game makes a sound as if the castle doors have been hit, even though the ball is nowhere near them. I’m assuming that’s because there is a flipper on the castle playfield and maybe it’s a switch sensitivity issue on castle door hit detection switch. Just adjust the switch a little?

3. Sometimes the game auto plunged the next ball. I get the it is supposed to when doing things like saving Toto or for ball save, but it does it sometimes after draining and it goes to the next ball. Why would it do this? Is this a hardware or a software issue?

4. Before each new ball during a game, the game makes a wired 4 clicks prior. What is this for? Do other people’s games do this? Normal or is this a hardware or software issue?

Thanks for any insights on these issues.

Directions in the manual. ( you can download from the website if you need it ) More time consuming than hard. Pictures and notes of connectors. I doubt it's magnetic. More likely a wire hanging down trapping the ball.

Tests - Switches - Matrixed - bang on playfield. Adjust switch that registers on screen.

Shooter lane switch stuck down ? Balls magnetized and not rolling down the ball trough and confusing the ball trough optos ?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809 or new balls.

Not normal. Try and figure what is firing - stuck switch or something firing a coil.

LTG : )

Was a 2.0 light board swap done on this game? If so, there might be wire that needs to be routed/tied correctly under the castle playfield.

The problem with this is that I don't know what you're going to use to trigger the additional flashers that the Fusion/Orion's belt feature as Woz really only has one flasher which is on the Witch. I suppose it's possible you could use the spinning house and the monkey but you can't use anything high-powered like the solenoids unless you tap into the low voltage pre-driver on the board. If you get something really cool figured out please post some videos.

Agreed but you don't have to attach 4 different flashers. You can just leave it at 1 or 2. It'll be fun to experiment.

Saw this print on wood at an antique shop. Thought it was neat. No room in my game room for it but still pretty neat.

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I installed pinstadium with UV in my woz. Took it out and sold it about a week later. One of the big reasons, the witch flashes when it rises and when it’s hit. That flash is localized so your eye is drawn to the witch. That effect is ruined with the entire game flashing... especially when you have multiple balls going and the entire game is flashing. I found it completely distracting.

Some people love’m, some people hate’m.

LTG, thanks for responding. So my thoughts too. But both? We're fine before pots install and maybe 2.0. They were kinda back to back. I unplugged one, then the other. Guess one way is to run lamp at castle And see if it's brighter. Thought I heard somewhere to test power going to that area. Thanks for input. Open to any thoughts on rest. Appreciated.

I have no idea if true but has anyone here heard no more widebody for JJP?

Depends, Will it effect the WOZ fan club? Yes it’s been Rumor posted in many places as always.

Ive heard the same thing but nothing official from them. Ive also heard they wont be doing upper playfields and the like, but again, who knows if thats true.

Although, Wonka is not wide body nor does it have other playfields on it, so I guess we will have to see what comes in the future.

You could just leave the flasher trigger disconnected.

Hey guys during shipping the two side arts on the head of the machine got damaged a bit. I have replacements and was going to install them but peeling off the old ones has been a pain, they just kind of chip off. Anyone have a better way to remove old decals from the head of the machine?
Thanks

first thing I would think of is using a heat gun.

Ok I can try that thanks
Ill find one on amazon

Thanks for the post. I have yet to play the game with them installed. Only saw them on a machine so this is good to know as the witch flashing isn't something that really jumps out at you without the PS installed so I could imagine it's even less when installed. Heading back East in a few weeks so I will hold off till I play the game.

Question, so when you decided to take them out of the machine does the PS lights attach in anyway that causes permanent damage, hate to use that word but, to the machine? Not sure how they're affixed to the machine so wondered once removed is there any holes or tape or anything that's left behind?

I already told kids this is the only game that’s never leaving they can have it when I’m gone lmao...just It’s such a fun game to play with all it has ,it would be a shame not to see a pin here n there with as much as this .Sounds like JJP now going for the big payday well we see.