Here is the corner where it hangs and I don't see where the rubber should be. Just a GI light post.
What am I missing?

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That's exactly where I hang too.

Raise the back leg levelers up a few turns.

Yeah leveling is a problem because this game doesn't include the bubble level. I don't (yet) have a digital level, I'm buying one today for this reason.

And I don't care what anyone says, F PINGUY app. It was all over the map last night despite repeated calibrations. At one point it kept telling me the back was too low when the leg levelers were almost out of their sockets.

I wasted over an hour jacking things up and down chasing PinGuy's recommendations.

I would give it a negative review I found the cut marks to make some of it less clear then the OG. Angling was not as easy as I would think you have to balance bet the ramp and your line of sight.

I own a laser tape measure that includes a built in level. It works great for me. I have never tried any of the apps for my phone.

It's not really an exact science but if your floor is level leave the front ones nearly all the way in, leaving just a little room for side to side adjustment. Then screw the back ones out about 1/2 way and you'll be between 6.6-6.8, this should be enough to help eliminate any ball-hangs.

(That's never a waste, btw...)

Thats a very different corner than what I was referring to.

Mine was under the munchkin playfield.

That one is easily corrected by raising the rear leg levelers and setting a playfiled pitch of 6.3 to 6.6 degrees I think.

Adjust flipper power so that either flipper can make the ramp from a cradled posistion and have the ball slow down slightly at the top.

It should decelerate up the ramp and smoothly yet consistantly roll through.

too fast and the ball flies off the wireform or pushes thru the lock bar.

To my surprise my playfield was at 6 degrees. I have raised it to 6.6 degrees and two games at this new angle didn't produce a hanging ball. This issue may be solved. Thanks pinballinreno and @bobukcat.

On flipper strength where do you stand regarding the crystal ball Weak Flippers mode and the ability to make the ramp from a cradled position? My guess is this should not be able to happen. Thoughts?

Yes you can make the ramp in weak flippers.

It just takes a solid hit.

LTG your trough fix was spot on, thanks! As for my stuck ball I got a digital level and I think that issue is now gone.

I've just spent the last 11 hours installing the 2.0 light boards and it made a big improvement. A couple of shenanigans though.

1 - I clipped the crystal ball cable like an idiot and will need to order a new one
2 - I can't find a place to plug in the 4 pin Forest/Oz Lane harness that the instructions told me to set aside for plugging into WOZLED7. Is there supposed to be a cable in the kit connecting LED7 to the 4 pin? The wiring diagram implies as much (19-003049-00).

Before/After pics:

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To close this out...I was way overthinking it. The 4 pin made it to LED7 easily after clipping a couple zip ties, and once plugged in it’s working 100%.

11 hours might be a record. Congratulations!

Can anyone beat that? I spent ~14 hours so not me.

@Hogbogged did it in 6 which I was trying to beat

He should call Guinness.

Well, trying to speed up the process is what led me to make a mistake and kill my crystal ball, so...

Ok. So in all fairness, you need to add the repair time back into your total.

Ok. Add 5 minutes plus whatever they charge me for the new cable.

There is a 6 inch Mylar strip under there too which catches the ball as well as it rolls around the metal guide at the 90. I removed mine and waxed there. No more hang ups.

One evening in so far on my 2.0 swap. Old big boards out, new ones in, power wiring and data cabling out. 4 hours or so in, got a ways to go yet

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As it turns out I am still getting stuck there so I’m probably in the same boat. Thanks for the tip!

Was tricky to get at but I didn’t have to remove the munchkin play field. I worked it with long plastic tools from both the top and bottom. Once the bottom is going nicely, you can reach it from the right side of the play field and keep working it up and off towards the top of the play field.

If a ball is getting hung on a myular edge, its an inertia problem.

The game is playing too slow, "floaty".

Too low of a playfield pitch or flippers too weak causes low inertia.

A slow playing game is easy to control, but low inertia causes all sorts of unintended issues.

Modern games thrive on an agressive stance.

Williams 70v flippers, high speed slings, agressive pop-bumpers etc. With this comes playfield wear and broken plastics etc.

Its a balancing act to get a game to play aggressive and yet controllable.

So, if its so slow that balls are hanging on the mylar protection, speed it up.

What’s your vector, Victor? The level should be pointed straight up and down the playfield.

Sorry for the obscure physics joke.

If you're ever in the vicinity of Eastern Pennsylvania my friend I'd like to rent you for 11 hours for a job...

Playfields are only kinda flat, some bends and bows.

measure in 3 places.
high, center and low.

Make the average about 6.4 to 6.6

Seeing that it’s my only machine as of now, any tips on these I’m gonna open it up I only have an hour I work tomro again I’d appreciate anything that will help me get through this fast .

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I think some of these are switches that haven’t been hit in a while I had the rescue error and just had to bend the switch a little bit to get it to go away.

Thanks I’ll try it .

First just go into switch test mode and press the switches to see if they work. It could just be that you haven’t hit them in some time as Bmanpin said.

The castle VUK is likely an opto. Stick a pencil in it when in switch test mode to see if it triggers. Keep coin door open while you’re doing this.

Context: Winkie target too low causing stuck balls

I adjusted this last night - no more stuck balls but now the game was telling me to hit the Winkie when he's already down. For cataloguing the fix for future searchers: if you adjust Winkie's hight you might also need to adjust the microswitch that triggers when he is down. There are two screws on the switch, the right one has a wide channel so you can loosen it and aim the switch assembly to the sweet spot. Very nice design, no bending of the switch arm here.

Not sure what opto means or where to poke it .Im going to try again tonight when home I cleared the tnplh the others for castle no luck .Im working on my pinball lingo Lmao

An opto is an optical switch that emits a light on one side and has a sensor on another. When you break the beam, so to speak, it triggers.

I always get confused with what closed means for an opto. I think it means that the beam is not broken. So likely same issue. You haven’t nailed the shot behind the castle doors in a while. Stick a pencil in the VUK hole to try to trigger it.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Opto_Switches or any parts supplier search for opto.

Page C-25 in the WOZ manual item #3

LTG : )

Thanks to all try tonight

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Has anyone had trouble with the mounting brackets in the Woz 2.0 light kits. I think the bracket was manufactured incorrectly compared to the pic in the instructions. Any workarounds anyone had to do?

Mine had the studs on top.

Do you think you can still use them though? Height wise you'll still have plenty of space to clear the rollovers that use them. The fish paper should provide electrical insulation against shorting on the bracket. (Could wrap it in e-tape before adding the fish paper + board if you wanted to be 100% sure.)

How many production runs of the RR woz were there? Are they all the same or are the newer runs better somehow? thanks

Only difference I am aware of is that the newer runs have the 2.0 lighting system. Not sure which date they switched.

Mine had the studs on top.
Do you think you can still use them though? Height wise you'll still have plenty of space to clear the rollovers that use them. The fish paper should provide electrical insulation against shorting on the bracket. (Could wrap it in e-tape before adding the fish paper + board if you wanted to be 100% sure.)</block-quote>
The solder points on the board keep it from sitting flat nicely. I am concerned about shorting the board too. I’d prefer to get the proper brackets. Might consider buying longer screws and standing off somehow with washers or nuts? We’ll hear what JJP says I guess, I emailed the parts department. Thanks for the feedback.

I’m finally getting a day soon to work on my WOZRR.To all thanks for the help .I received the rubber sling for below the lanes ,trying to order led strip for OZ they’re out of stock have video clips for both but the one thing I can’t find is how to replace a LED board in this case for rainbow.Ive been holding off on ordering as had someone over to get downstairs and run through it told me there might be a fix (NB stay red that’s all the problem)but havnt heard back.Wondering if anyone has info on a fix for that or if I need to replace a good video on how to do so .Thanks again also ordered some mods for game as this one is going nowhwhere !!

I think this nut and bold assembly will stand it off like intended. Fingers crossed

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Double post

So just joined the WOZ club and took delivery of what I gather is a “Green Edition.” Absolutely love the game but have a fix that y’all may know the quick and easy answer to.

After the ball ejects from the castle and travels down the wire form towards the Toto outlane side.....about 25% of the time the ball will pop over the guide rail and drain into the Toto outlane. I adjusted the screw on the wire form as far “in” toward the flippers as it can go without hitting the plastic and still no luck.

I assume I need to bend the wire form or the metal rail that separates the out lane from the flipper lane?

I’m not too savvy with bending parts so wanted to see if anyone faced the same issue?

Thanks in Advance

Raise it up a bit with washers or a spacer.

LTG : )