I like Wonka, it’s a fun game. Definitely my 2nd choice however. Wonka shoots great.

WoZ is the the total package to me as far as any JJP game goes, fun to play, fun to look at, full featured, awesome light show. Fingers crossed I can find one soon.

There are more shots than just that, but you're not far off. Crystal ball And castle are the last of your normal shots. Of course you have roll overs to aim for, throne scoop, the "star trek" flipper upper flipper shot to the shooter lane, and two upper playfields, the witch "bash" target. They did a great job shoving tons of things into this game. Furthermore, there is almost never a time a shot doesn't do SOMETHING. Oops I hit the witch. Oops I hit the mystery target. Oops I spelled ball, or rainbow or re lit my mystery award target. They did a great job making every shot meaningful, even if you brick. Lol

If by floaty, you mean stop and go as opposed to flow, then I agree with you. However, if you mean slow moving ball, then pitch and flipper strength can affect that dramatically, and a little adjustment will go a long way.

Would you mind picking it up and delivering it to me Love to have a WoZ just too lazy to drive the 11 hour trip

I have a Wonka CE (my only game). Would you recommend WOZ YBR, DI LE or Pirates LE for another machine. I love Wonka and have a two kids aged 6 and 9.

I mean stop and go...

Oh, dont get me wrong. I love the machine! Love it!!. But I think its fair for someone know to know that some people dont like the "flow" of this game since its more stop and go...

Ive seen that as the #1 complaint with this game, if you can call it that.

Yes, yes and yes.

Can only get one.

Well if you are focused on the kids, let them pick.
They are all great games but there is no clear winner.
DI is amazing but will probably not have as much kid appeal because of the theme.
POTC is way way way overpriced and if you buy one used you may run into one with playfield clear chipping/pooling issues.
YBRWOZ is spectacular but also overpriced and missing one of the great features of the game (the flying monkey.)
Back to where I started you won't go wrong with any of them but they have their downsides.

I have 3 kids and many, many other friends with kids. My advice is DONT buy a pin strictly for kids. They are fickle and lose interest quickly...regardless of what it is or the initial coolness factor.

As far as the games go...I actually think the ECLE WOZ is hands down the best, if you can find one.
POTC is incredible...but very pricey. You could get a DI and a WOZ for about the same price.
DI is my least favorite of the bunch. The theme isnt that great for many and even some find it annoying. I dont feel that it will age well either.

I also would not limit yourself to JJP - plenty of good new stern titles like JP or CGC remaking some of the all time greats.

Don’t get me wrong, they make great games and I love my WOZ - but only having room for three pins - I try to vary the style of games so my collection is not all the same game play. Just picked up AFM and it offers a nice change from one machine to the next.

Curous why you would say ECLE is best but the RR comes with all the toys in it?

There lots of WOZ others who are very attached to their color of choice. Again. we’re talking mostly about powdercoat, not gameplay. WOZ is WOZ, except YBR which is a whole different monkey (or more specifically, lack thereof).

Ah, then you and I agree. Some have used the term floaty in the past to describe how it has been set up at shows, where the flipper strength is often lowered, and the game is not that fast. But, yeah, WOZ is stop and go. No debating that.

The coloring, backglass, and topper are all far better on the ECLE.
The wood apron and direct print cabinet are awesome on the ECLE.
I dont like the Toto in the basket. I think it looks cheap.
Lollipop rainbow targets are cool, but you can buy them for cheap...so why pay thousands more?
I will admit that the 2.0 boards are favored by most, but i know people that have had problems with them and people with the earlier boards with zero problems...and from what i understand...you can find each of the boards on both models anyway.

Which is a shame, with Steve's flapping winged monkey mod, the flying monkey is probably my favorite toy in all of pinball.

I hear you. I guess I am interested in JJP just because I only have one pin and they have been great with fixing any Wonka issues. Sounds like WOZ YBR is a definite no. POTC LE is overpriced right now and DI could be boring. I may go with DI if I can get it for a good price and hoping the Pat Lawlor gameplay makes us happy. Thank for the info!

Dude, Dialed In is legit.

I’d really recommend finding a DI to play first before comitting. Some people love it, some people hate it. I’m not a fan. Wife didn’t care for it either. I have a Woz ECLE. My wife and I love it. We love Wonka too and that will be the next JJP for us. My wife likes Pirates and I thought it was good, but haven’t had much time on it. Find a WOZ RR. Then you’ll have a standard and a widebody - best of both worlds.

What about Pirates LE vs. WOZ RR?

And some people (me typically!) hated it for a while and then for unknown reasons started loving it to the point where it almost became an obsession !

A light board question:
I have a 75th running 7.02RR with 1.1 boards. Just had all of the light go out (except spots). I reset the game, which has worked in the past, but no joy. Reinstalled the 7.02 as well. Under the hood, I can disconnect the data cable from the IO board and all the lights come on (not a power issue). I moved the data cable from LED6 to 29 but no change. I'll keep bypassing - but since this is ALL of the lights, I wonder if there might be something else I should be checking? I searched the thread but didn't find an obvious approach beyond bypassing.

BTW - LTG, I haven't messaged you since the very early 2000's, but you helped me with my first pin (STTNG) and I've always been grateful for that!

Spot lights, wizard head light, and coin door lights aren't part of the insert lights.

Measure power to any of the LED boards - no power, then power supply.

If you have power, try swapping the data connector from W6 to #29 , to see if W6 failed.

LTG : )

Hi LTG!
So I bypassed to #29, no luck. BUT: If I plug the data cable back into W6 (and #29), and then *unplug* the data cable from the IO board itself, ALL the inserts light up.

(unplug data cable from W6, no change; unplug the same data cable from the IO board (J802), and all the inserts light up)

Any thoughts on this? Anything I should look for on the IO board itself?

THANK YOU!
Chris

When you bypassed #29, did you turn off W6 in the menu?

Hi LTG - I should have mentioned that. I did turn off W6 Scarecrow in the menu.

Definitely sounds like an issue on the I/O board.

Sorry.

LTG : )

Not a problem - I appreciate the help! I have a WW CE arriving tomorrow, I think that the WOZ found out and is pouting.
Is purchasing a replacement IO board the required approach? Thanks again!

I'd call Barry tomorrow and see.

LTG : )

I think thats all opinion except for the 2.0 boards. But I was not aware that a RR cost more...

Can you upgrade the monitor in the standard editions from 2013 to a 1080p monitor? If I were to buy a monitor from Jersey Jack, would that work with this, or does something else need to be done? The resolution difference between this and all the other jjp is fairly noticable.

the JJP store has a lot of parts:
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/

I want to order a replacement screen for my crystal ball. I’ve put in a new SD card and it’s still lagging quite a bit. Some have said my screen is going bad. I don’t mind the $60 for the part but $20 for shipping and handling is outta control! Any other places have those screens? Or do I need to bite the bullet?

Yeah, that doesn't really answer my question.

To close the loop, the J802 connector on the IO board is a bit loose. Lights now work, but I've turned off the shaker and unplugged the knocker (both close to the board) until I get around to pulling the board and repairing the connector. Thank you again, LTG!

BTW - the WWCE arrived today and it is lovely next to the red WOZ. My first look at the 2.0 light board connectors with the 'CAT6' cords - nifty.

it's an expensive upgrade, i can't say i have done it. happy with what my monitor looks like

I agree. I think it looks great even when compared to my WW.

What resolution is your guys' monitor?

No clue. I didnt think there were differences.

Lol. Which is why you don't think there is one, duh. My other jjp games are 1080p, which is not quite double the resolution of my woz. Thus why I am asking about monitor upgrading.

Suzo happ has one that appears compatible, was just wondering if anyone has done it or knows if it would work at all.

Do you think the resolution would make a difference really? If the graphics and such are displayed at a set resolution, I think the monitor is still going to output the same.

I think about when I play some older video games, it can be a resolution of 720p and regardless of the tv being 1080 or higher, it still displays it at 720. Sometimes the up conversion can be worse looking as it distorts.

Not really sure on all that.

If you don't feel it is a big deal, would you trade your 1080p one in your woz for my lower res monitor? Thank you in advance!

Not quite sure why you downvoted Rager170 when what he said actually made some sense and was in no way insulting. That being said, what resolution is your WOZ display at? Because mine is in high def. I know it is at least 1080. I will have to look the next time it boots, but I remember being surprised when I bought it (NIB RR, 2015) that it had a high def display.

EDIT: Looking back up a few posts, I see you had a 2013 standard. So are you saying they came with a lower quality display in 2013? The graphics themselves are all high def at this point, so I would think if you got a replacement monitor from JJP (or equivalent), it would probably do what you want unless they had some differences in the graphics cards used. Can you temporarily hook up a high def computer monitor or television to your game and see if it displays in 1080? If it does, then there is your answer and the swap to a newer JJP monitor will work.

that's actually a good idea, i could hook up a PC monitor to the DVI output from the motherboard and see what resolution is auto detected.

I guess at this point the computer output 1080p video but the monitor only support 720? not clear, will have to check I am surprised JJP replacement is that expensive though ($558)...

Did I say I didnt think its a big deal? I was just asking questions to see if it would make sense for you to do.

I dont really understand why JJP would design the graphics in 1080 but put in a sub 1080 monitor?

At the time and now, your build date will determine your monitor.
ECLE and builds through 2015 had the lesser monitor. Come Hobbit and Dialed In had the 1080 one. Thus Ruby Red builds also have the newer monitors if Im not mistaken.
Im july 2013 build and I will say playing in the menu when i first got it i discovered this.
Its never really bothered me. You cant see the difference when an ECLE sits next to a dialed in.

It’s a Wells Gardner screen from their broadcast division, they go through tighter QA than the consumer ones and are designed to last forever while being used 24/7

I think the monitor you have will likely handle 1080p. What you need to check is the video control card (different Item than the graphic card in the pc under the playfield).

It’s this part
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/Controller-27-LCD-Bd.html