8,500 should be more than enough to get a RRWOZ in great shape.

FWIW AFAIC Lightly Routed = HUO = NOOB = Low Plays = Only X# of Games = Total BS Hype Marketing Language

I saw one for 8.000$ not so long ago on Pinside, 2.0 lights, HUO, I thought it was the right price for it. Since thoughts is not enough, let's see if it sells and how long it takes to sell, and there's your answer.

I've have two of the bigger 7.5 LED boards that I had as backups that I never used.

W1 Board. 7.5 volts LED (Fish Board, never installed ) $250 on JJP site
W9, WOZ 7.5V TNPLH RGB (also never installed) $150 on JJP site

I'm thinking $70 for the pair, free shipping... PM if interested.

http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/?search=woz%207.5

EDIT: SOLD

Id think thats low personally... Not sure why the $1,500 drop from new... Would make me suspicious.

Although looking through the market, theres a handful at $8k. Not sure why levels seem to be going down..

I think the number of games that have been produced and the reruns put WOZ on the abundant side, adding to that that there isn’t a week without one or two showing up on the market, all of this explains the loss of value at resell.

In parallel 9.500$ for a new game was an expensive price to begin with, thus the loss on used.

Yes, I agree with all of this..

What does the opto on the rail ramp at the exit of the castle pf do? Its probably going to be a duh question but I can’t figure it out.

I’m pretty sure it tells the pin to stop playing oh eee oh ohhhh oh, and start being in normal playfield mode, but I haven’t tested it.

Probably also useful for MB to tell the pin to stop having 2x scoring for a ball on both playfields.

Only 40 more posts till #10,000. Who is it going to be? Has anything made it to 10,000 before?

Thanks. Now I’m more interested. Think I’ll reach out to JJP and see what they have to say.

I did it in Batman66

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It seems that a lot of early WOZ pc boards might need repairs if you dont buy the 2.0 system.

Has anyone been able to repair these effectively?

Hey WOZ fans. I wanted to let you know that our Crystal Ball mod, which has been in the works for several months now, is shipping. If you didn't get in on the pre-order now is the time as we still have parts from our original order which means the mod will stay at this price until we sell out and have to re-order. The mod comes with a highly engineered pedestal which holds very true to the scenes from he movie. Included is a brand new, custom made K9 optically clear crystal ball. It's a heavy, real glass crystal ball that is used for photography and the like so it has perfect optics. The only thing re-used from your original is the screen. The pedestal is adjustable in 4 different locations including the tilt of the overall ball mech (adjustable to fit most any height player), entire platform can be rotated to direct the screen right towards the player position, the screen can be moved forward and back from the ball for dialing in the image for your viewing position and the screen can move up and down to perfectly center the image.

Like I said, this has been in the works for months now and took many, many prototypes to get the engineering correct. Finished with 2 coats of semi-gloss clear and including all the hardware needed for this easy swap I think it really makes a nice upgrade both functionally and aesthetically.

https://pinballmods.co/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/woz-crystal-ball-upgrade

Ball1 (resized).jpg

Ball2 (resized).jpg

Screen (resized).jpg

Screen2 (resized).jpg

Ordered along with the flaming witch and corn field mods. Keep up the great work, loving the starmap and closing chest mods on my POTC!

I'd be interested in the crystal ball mod if mine would work half of the time. I can't stand seeing the screen resoloution graphics cycle over and over. It is the only part of my game that consistently doesn't want to work.

Try reseating the memory card and/or the 6 pin cable on the little TV behind the crystal ball a few times. Maybe the contacts on the card are a little dirty.

I have, like 100 times. I think mine works correctly 40% of the time. Just took apart this weekend again, in fact. Worked like a charm Friday...sucked again on Saturday.

My crystal ball had intermittent issues as well. I ended up getting a new screen and SD card from JJP and have not had an issue since. My 2017 RRWOZ was out of warranty so it cost me like $49.

If the screen is working intermittently it could very well be the SD card. If you buy a new SD card and can deal with a DMG disk image I can send you the image to burn to the card. Alternatively, when JJP is able to I think their card isn't that expensive. The screen really isn't that much from them either, if you want to just grab both. I did.

Is you dont think its a loose cable or loose SDcard issue:

be on the lookoput for reversed images or corrupted/diagnostic items in the display.

These would require an oled screen replacement.

SOLD

Ive had issues with my game in the past with this. Its annoying for sure.

It is supposed to be up in No Place Like Home mode because you don’t use the upper playfield.

Winkie hits are variable, and I’m not sure they necessarily go in order. I’m pretty sure I’ve only needed one hit at times.

It sounds like yours is functioning normally unless I’m missing something.

Its 1 hit, 2 hits, 3 hits to get past it.

In TNPLH mode it stays up

No, its for each time the target drops only.

First time one hit, second time 2 hits, third time 3 hits then back to first one hit. In rotation.

Nothing to do with rescue multiball.

Hard to saw... what kind of numbers? When the screen boots without a valid SD card it will show diagnostic information scrolling upside down. If that is the case you should re-seat the card to make sure that isn't the issue. Then I would try a card next, especially if you are able to burn it yourself with the DMG I have. I guess I can convert the DMG to another format like ISO or RAW.

Does the screen show the debug animation when you go in to tests? It should show a number "1" with a rotating line.

Is there an adjustment for the two targets in the Haunted Forest that activates the flying monkey? The first WOZ I had (SE) when the ball went into the haunted forest it would usually bounce around a bit and the two targets would get hit and the monkey would light up. On my WOZRR, when you hit the orbit the ball usually goes right through the forest and doesn't hit any of the tree pop bumpers. Then send the ball to the forest again and the same thing happens. I guess I'm asking it there's some type of adjustment to have the monkey activate a little more easily? I guess I'm OK with it being like it is, but am curious if my machine is different than normal. I used to be able to activate monkey many times upon ball launch. Now I can go games before it activates...thanks.

Do the pop bumpers work?

Yes...they're all firing. The one to the far left was stuck on the side of the playfield but I dremeled the edge down...they all work great. It's just weird that the ball flies through the forest when you have an orbit shot without hitting any bumpers. I tried changing the post rubber to a little larger one thinking that might divert it more toward a pop with no success.

So, on a right orbit or plunge, the ball just sails out the left side without hitting any pops? That is weird.

I do know that my metal ball guide on that exit side is bent out slightly. Came from the factory that way. Perhaps it was an adjustment to prevent that issue that was never made on yours by mistake. Call JJP and see what they say, assuming they are around. Or maybe LTG knows.

If you manually roll a ball thru the pop bumpers do they activate and work?

I could just be that you need to gap the pop bumper leaf switches slightly closer so that the pops are more aggressive.

Could be...thanks for the post. Will check mine and see if it's bent or can be...will contact JJP too...thanks.

having pops that barely register is a symptom of leaf switches intentionally gapped too far apart.

It makes for easier game play.

Gapping pop bumpers is an art form in itself.

To much gap they barely register, to close and they machine-gun.

Dont adjust them with metal tools and the power on, itll kill a transistor.

Use fingers or plastic tools.

The pops work as they should. When a ball hits one they bounce around among the three as they should, but the problem is that the ball goes straight through the opening without touching any of them.

Then I would revisit my post. Perhaps take a video if you can of the ball exiting to really make sure it is not hitting any of the pops. The other thing you could try is adding a small piece of felt tape at the exit side of the metal ball guide. That might slow the ball down and divert the ball enough to hit the pops.

Pops should be set highly sensitive.

Its unlikely that every single shot near the pops goes thru perfectly.
To do so 100 times in a row is near impossible.

In my opinion, without seeing the game, the pops are not set up sensitive enough.

Close up the gaps so close that the leafs are near touching, very, very close. The slightest touch should set them off. Then test it.

Other than that, dirty contacts could be the culprit too. Clean them with a crisp dollar bill run thru the contacts a few times.

Slings should be set similarly.

Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.

Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.

LTG : )

I just played a game, and the ball always hits the left bumper on both fast and slow shots through the orbit. If you are sure it is not touching it at all, then I would check the position of the metal ball guide and level of your playfield. If it is touching it, even if just slightly, but not triggering the bumper, then you need to adjust the switch as stated.

Are you holding both flipper buttons in after you plunge? There is an option that this would temporarily kill the pop bumpers. Just a thought.

Thanks for all the tips....will check things out tomorrow. No I'm not holding both flippers in....will advise. Appreciate the comments.

Really? interesting..

Yes. It helps with strategy to get a haunted mode going if you can time it correctly or do it off a plunge.

And 10,000!!!!