(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

9 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by TigerLaw (9 years ago)

Post #2584 Fan Replacement details Posted by bhwolf (7 years ago)

Post #7017 How to tell if your WOZ has 2.0 boards Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #7022 Balls not making it to shooter lane from trough - Fix Posted by LTG (4 years ago)

Post #7126 Location of the latest software update/version Posted by mavantix (4 years ago)

Post #7128 Update 7.01 notes - released April 16, 2019 Posted by thewool (4 years ago)

Post #7752 Fan Replacement how to and links Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #11015 Adjustment advice for the monkey Posted by LTG (3 years ago)

Post #12537 7.03 Code Release Posted by bobukcat (2 years ago)


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#8119 4 years ago

Hey Guys,

While I am not yet an owner I am looking to pick up one of these sooner than later. Question for you owners.. in regards to cliffys for this machines, I see that there are a lot offered.

Do you guys recommend certain ones or all of them or??

I always do shooter lane stuff but I see a lot of upkick protectors and such for this also.

Curious of your thoughts. Thanks.

#8126 4 years ago
Quoted from JoshODBrown:

I am also in the market to purchase a set of cliffys to install when i shop my WOZ next month. My WOZ is interesting, because it was on location for about a year and a bit, and got nearly 33,000 plays on it in that time, with no protectors! My WOZ is the 75th Ruby Red Edition, and was built in December of 2017.
While the game is in pretty good shape overall, heres what started getting some noticeable wear. I am planning to do all of the Cliffys, just because I can.
- In lanes by the slingshots where the ball drops from the habitrail coming back from the upper playfields. The right hand side was worse for wear than the left hand side. I would recommend the Universal switch slot protectors in this case. I already cleaned up the playfield and installed the switch slot protectors on mine, since this was pretty much the worst place it was worn. I don't believe these are a part of the WOZ full kit, you'd need to order them separately.
- The throne-room/Wizard saucer on the right hand side of the game just above the right outlane is starting to wear on the upper side of the hole a bit... it was not terrible, but is starting on mine (remember... 33,000 plays!). A cliffy will cover this completely and it will become a non-issue.
- Shooter lane is surprisingly in good shape for the number of plays. It has a tiny bit of wear on the left side of the lane, but the right side looks good, and barely much wear at all. I've seen plenty of Sterns with a 1/5th the plays have waaaay worse shooter lanes
- Crystal Ball VUK - Absolutely no obvious wear here at all on my game.
- Castle VUK, and Winkie drop target - No concerning wear here on mine.
- Castle Playfield. No noticeable wear on the saucer behind the castle doors, or the spot where the ball exits the castle playfield to the habitrail.
- Munchkin Playfield (upper right) - The edge of the playfield by the ramp entrance has taken a little bit of a beating from air balls, and you can see some potential for wood loss if it doesn't get a protector on it. This protector is probably one of the more important ones in the kit I would say.
- Magnets and rollover switches - Very very very minor wear on the magnet by the upper right flipper. There was a piece of mylar on mine, but I am not sure if this was factory or the previous owner installed it. Top orbit magnet by the OZ lanes has practically no wear. The Tinman, Lion, Scarecrow, and TOTO rollovers all still look fantastic and probably don't need these ones in a home use game, unless they are not leveled properly.

This is great info and exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much for taking the time to write this all up.

Sounds like these playfields can really take the abuse... 33,000 plays and only very minor issues, very good to hear.

Thanks again!

#8127 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

This is great info and exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much for taking the time to write this all up.
Sounds like these playfields can really take the abuse... 33,000 plays and only very minor issues, very good to hear.
Thanks again!

Also, has anyone used these vs. Cliffys? Seems like they do the same with far less dismantling.. (also dont like how you have to drill the munchkin playfield for the Cliffy protector there).

https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-munchkinland-chrome-edge-protector

#8131 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I only suspect, have no real info, that it is a plastic vinyl chrome coated piece. I think it looks sort of out of place.

I personally think they both look of place.

Question, how often do air balls go into that piece that it needs a protector?

#8133 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

It’s very frequent and is probably the area that most needs protection unless you don’t mind the edges being chipped away. I guess if you’re someone who never looks closely up there it probably wouldn’t matter much to you.
I personally prefer the look of the cliffy over the bare layers of plywood.

Oh ok, good to know. I am definitely someone who would be bothered by chipping of wood..

#8135 4 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Here is a link with a few photos I took years ago. Note that all those ball dings aren’t really super noticeable but i happened to get the light just right and picked them up. This was after having the cliffy on for just a few hundred plays. I’m sure not every one of those ball strikes would have caused a chip but several could have and one did before I installed it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/36#post-3260581

Oh wow, thanks for that. Definitely going to need protection there..

#8144 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I didn't even drill, don't shoot me. Those small screws slide right in to the buttery wood lol.

This is exactly what I was thinking. It wouldnt be the first time ive used a cliffy other than directed haha.

#8146 4 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

I went with this one over the Cliffy one and really like it. It does exactly the same thing and I like the look of it better as it has a more mirrored look to it and is rounded, which shows off the lights in the game a lot more. Had both, went with this one. It is chrome colored vinyl as stated, but the back padding of the sticker makes it more giving and after a couple years in the machine, no visible marks on the piece and it has never come off. I have the other cliffys in my game still, have the modfather one on my munchkinland pf.

Thats good to know. Ill probably end up ordering both and trying them out... Thanks!

#8147 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I didn't even drill, don't shoot me. Those small screws slide right in to the buttery wood lol.

Do you even need the bottom screws? Ive found that thin double sided tape can do wonders sometimes...

#8155 4 years ago

In regards to the castle wall mods, do you guys have any opinions on which are better or nicer looking between Modfathers vs. Back Alley Creations? I feel like back alleys look a bit better but I dont believe they do the witchs walls if wanting to match that later on..

Thoughts?

#8158 4 years ago

Thanks guys. So I assume you guys with the Back Alley ones dont care about the witch well? I havent seen it in person so just curious.

#8197 4 years ago

Just placed an order for my WOZ, that "Green Edition" that Automated is selling.

Super excited but have to wait until the weekend to get it.

#8201 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

how much are those? Curious considering the price of the ybr edition is 9500 i think.

That edition is $9,500. YBR is $11,500...

#8202 4 years ago
Quoted from Extraballz:

Let us know how that goes. I am also interested in that model. Hoping most of the fixes are done by factory.

I spoke to a couple of people who have them and they have said nothing but good things. It has the 2.0 boards in it already which was my main concern. I also called JJP a week or so ago to inquire about this model as its "different". They told me that Automated is their largest distributor and it was made for them, so its all legit..

#8204 4 years ago

I actually thought a week or so ago I saw someone in Pittsburgh selling a WOZ on here...

#8205 4 years ago

This is also being sold when they do a re-run. I was told by a distributor that the Flying Monkey will not be in the new runs. Not sure if thats 100% definite...

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/55541

#8207 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

I have no doubt that's what you were told so I am not arguing with you. However, let's not take that as gospel assuming there will even be any more runs other than YBR.

Yea im not sure. I know the YBR doesnt have it either though, so makes me curious.

#8210 4 years ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

Congrats on pulling the trigger on the green edition...it’s a beauty.

Thank you!

#8253 4 years ago

Any of you guys who purchased the Modfather munchkinland protector.. can you tell me if the upper left protector looked like this? I dont think this looks right with the cutouts over the rail holes..

I wrote Modfather to see what they say..

mod (resized).jpgmod (resized).jpg
#8255 4 years ago

Hey Guys,

I just received my Green Edition WOZ that I picked up. Looks great but I have a good amount of micro scratches on the lockdown bar. Do you guys find this normal? I am assuming its rubbing from shipping..

#8256 4 years ago

Just talked to Automated, they are sending me a new one. I know some people seem to not like them but they have been nothing but great to work with for me...

#8258 4 years ago

Question.. this is my first JJP so bear with me.

I seem to have a lot of wiggle on my lockdown bar. is that normal? Probably quarter inch give or take.. seems strange.

#8259 4 years ago

nevermind, i found the screws there for it.

Not able to update to 7.01 though. Keeps saying something like not able to allocate data..

#8260 4 years ago

Guys, any clue why my update wont work? I keep getting this error. I redid my usb stick twice now.. its a 16 gb usb drive.
20190720_160152 (resized).jpg20190720_160152 (resized).jpg

#8261 4 years ago

Ok, i found also that the wizard vuk isnt being recognized when there is a ball in there. Anything I can do to fix this?

Very frustrating to bring home a new game and with that, it makes it virtually unplayable...

#8263 4 years ago

ok thanks...

it did not register on the test.

#8265 4 years ago

ok, so that fixed the wizard VUK.

Now my new problem is that the balls take about 5 tries before coming out of the trough. Not sure why im having all of these issues. .

seems the coil is very weak there.. any ideas? last round they wouldnt come out.

#8267 4 years ago

Ok, and the monkey doesnt work and the crystal ball VUK isnt registering either.

Honestly, this machines is going back to the distributor. This is ridiculous!

#8268 4 years ago

also, for the trough VUK, on test, it fires strong. But while playing the game, barely makes it out if it even does.

#8271 4 years ago

the monkey tried to work but seemed the magnet wasnt strong enough to pick up the ball.

sorry, just very frustrated. I appreciate your help very much though..

#8272 4 years ago

i have to run out but ill try the connectors again later. I dont even know how I fixed the wizard VUK, just pushed connectors together and seemed to work.

#8274 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check if he travels low enough to pick up the ball.

No need to be sorry. Understand. Go slow, tackle things one at a time. You'll get through it.
LTG : )

He looked low enough but I'll have to take a better look. Any suggestions if I notice he doesn't travel all the way right?

#8276 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The metal plate he is fastened to has two limit switches. One up by the castle playfield and one down by the main playfield. They can carefully be adjusted to let the monkey go farther or stop sooner.
LTG : )

Gotcha, thanks again....

#8277 4 years ago

Well, nothing seems to get this VUK sensor to work.

I will be requesting a replacement machine. This is just ridiculous.

#8280 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Vuk opto is not hard to change. JJP can send you the entire piece with the sensors, harness and plug.

No, thats not going to fly with me. I dont spend almost 10K on a new machine for all these problems. Ill either be requesting a replacement or a refund. My patience has run out.

#8282 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

I’m just trying to help.

I appreciate it but lets get real. Anyone spending this kind of money on a game should not have these issues. Its not just one, its been multiple and when one gets fixes, its followed by even more issues. Unacceptable.

#8288 4 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Perhaps the failed attempt to update to 7.01 resulted in some software problem?

I was actually able to do the update using a new USB card.

#8289 4 years ago

Ok so after giving it another try, I finally got the opto to work for the crystal ball, yay! but I am still seeing some strange things happening. For example, on Shoot the Rainbow mode, it went into the throne room drop and isnt recognized and sits there until it does a coil test to get it out. Had this happen at the Crystal Ball spot also during one mode. But playing without any modes, they are recognized... Any ideas?

Also, the monkey isnt working correctly. It picks the ball up but lets it go after about 1 second...

#8290 4 years ago

The Witch Hurry Up mode is where the ball gets stuck in Crystal Ball and wont kick out until it does a coil test...

#8291 4 years ago

Now I have an alert that the Monkey Magnet Sense is stuck open...

#8294 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

This is what I think I would do - I would redownload 7.01 full install and rewrite the hard drive in case the software is corrupted- the stuff you are describing is very odd behavior. The monkey sounds like he needs adjusting at the bottom switch - it sounds like he’s traveling down just a shade too far and plugging on top of the pinball. Tweak up the bottom switch just a little bit so he stops maybe one thread sooner on his travel.

Will do, thanks.

Any advice on the Monkey Sense switch that is stuck open?

#8296 4 years ago

Ive also noticed something very strange. For some reason the monkey castle switch engages when the playfield is in place, but if I move it even an inch out, it works as it should and stops engaging.. Due to it engaging, I feel it is sending the monkey down to the lower playfield or causing the monkey to not leave the right side becuase it thinks its at the castle.

This machine is just a constant issue one way or another.

#8299 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Which monkey castle switch specifically? If the playfield when down in place is triggering any switch you should be able to see it easily in tests - switch tests - matrixed switch tests. Might I suggest you check the skill target (rectangular and in amongst the trees) to see if it is landing on the cabinet inside rail that holds the playfield up and allows it to slide forward. If it is shorting the bottom tabs of that switch - common with WOZ especially new WOZ games - that could be causing ALL of the odd behavior you were describing earlier. Playfield down - matrixed switch test then while watching lift up just a bit on the field and see what changes. Other possible source but less likely - ground braid stapled to the rear cabinet wall - playfield on the game is tight in the cabinet owing to the monkey mech back there. Look to the middle right side from the players perspective there is ground braid to the right of center if you push the playfield back and switches read - make sure it is FLAY flush not looped.

The monkey switch I am talking about is the one that the monkey triggers when it sits far left at the caste. The second the playfield is seated, that switch gets triggered.

#8301 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

There is a small connector for the monkey sensor at the bottom center edge of the playfield.
Hard to see. You can look at it with the playfied raised.
You can feel it from the bottom rear with the playfield pulled out to its furthest service position.
Its loose. Unplug it and replug it in firmly.
Mine has fallen of before. I widened a couple pins on it and now its snug.
Also check that the little monkey sensor PC board isnt loose and changing position. It's on the rear of the backboard. It just has to be snug, not over tightened

Ive noticed that if the playfield is down almost all the way where the metal hinges under the lock down bar are, if they are resting on the metal, the sensor is normal, if I lower it even about a centimeter, it triggers the sensor on. I cant find anything to be causing it.

#8302 4 years ago

Here is the difference of when the field is down and up. Up and the sensor is normal, down and it gets triggered.

down (resized).jpgdown (resized).jpgup (resized).jpgup (resized).jpg
#8304 4 years ago

And now my flippers are an issue. They wont hold if you hold the flipper buttons, just a quick flip.

This game is going back to the distributor. Its a brick..

#8305 4 years ago

So I did a power cycle and the flippers work again normally but still having strange issues with the Throne Room VUK. It works sometimes and other times it doesnt and has to do a coil check, all while in the same game.

I am completely out of ideas at this point.

#8307 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Nice toes.
Monkey sense switch is mounted with two screws on the back side of the rear wall of the playfield. Directly behind the magnet pole in the rear lane of the playfield. Follow it's two wires. It plugs in nearby near the center lower of the raised playfield. I'd reseat it a couple times and then be sure it is plugged in tight.
LTG : )

haha, i noticed that after I posted! lol.

The monkey sense, I believe, is working. When I disabled the monkey mech, the magnet began working. Again, I feel its due to the Monkey Castle Switch being triggered for no reason and keeping the monkey down at the playfield..

#8318 4 years ago

Yes, everyone has been great to try and help. Unfortunately my machine is still riddled with problems..

#8320 4 years ago

Well, I spoke with Michael at Automated and he was quick to understand my problems and offer a swap with a new machine.

Very happy with them and how they have been regarding my issue and past games.

Its nice when you find a company with great customer service like that.

And another big thanks to everyone on here. I know I sounded like a whiny b*tch at times, but you all tried to help as much as possible and it is GREATLY appreciated!! This forum is awesome!!

#8323 4 years ago

Guys with the Tornado mod added.. does that block the emerald city in the background?

#8325 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It does not.
However the upgraded emerald city piece at back alley creations pairs up nicely with the tornado.
The purple accents make it the better choice.

Yes, thats exactly what I want to get. The tornado has purple in it or the city?

#8329 4 years ago

Ahh thanks. Didnt realize that..

#8330 4 years ago

Gotta do something about those black screws...

Funny enough, the huts dont bother me the way they are stock..

But further up in that thread... that Witch Cauldron looks great!

#8333 4 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

This is pinball. Things happen like this. Every single NIB pin I've had has had to have some thing fixed, tweaked, or in some cases even replace parts out of the box etc. This may not be the hobby for you. And pins will break, and you will have to work on them or fix them.

Ummnn I strongly disagree. I have no problem fixing something that breaks but the amount of issues that I had with this new pin was incredible. With all the help I was receiving, it didnt seem like anyone was familiar enough to be able to fix all these problems either.

The people on here were great to help!

#8334 4 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Glad you got a positive outcome! Looks like it was quite a few issues you had as I read the rest of the thread!

Keep reading haha.

#8336 4 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

My NIB WOZRR75 had a bunch of issues when it was new. JJP was a great help, and really went above & beyond for me.
Plus, all the issues I had forced me to really learn about the machine itself. It kind of taught me everything I know about repairing my machines. Invaluable info!

Can I ask what issues you had? My intent is not to bash but to prepare myself for possible future issues... And as you mentioned, with the amount of analyzing I did over the past weekend, I am much more familiar with this machine which is good..

#8338 4 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

The cauldron does look excellent.
I tried reaching out a couple of months ago but got no response.

Let us know if you have any luck on that. Curious about the size in relation to the witch. As someone on that thread mentioned, it might be a bit large in scale.

#8346 4 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Issues with monkey mech magnet(s), various RGB light boards, needed noise filter, witch mech was completely DOA, other issues I can't think of at the moment

What is a noise filter? I know my machine has the 2.0 boards in it so that isnt much a concern... The monkey mech seems to be a mess all around. I took a good look at how all that works. Im surprised JJP doesnt offer a replacement on their website. Its easy to take off and put back on..

#8347 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Jjp yellow brick side blades on the ECLE....I really like them.
This game is just stunning. It does better than I was giving credit for too. I forgot a number of the shots it has. It's not just up the middle.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome! Mine were ordered last week and stuck at USPS god knows where right now.. Im hoping they arrive by the weekend so I can put them on my new machine.

Did you take the playfield out to put them on? They can be tricky and for my GB machine, I took it out, but dont know if I want to do that with this one... The mirror blades on my TWD, I didnt take the playfield out and that was kind of a b*tch since those are thicker haha.

#8349 4 years ago
Quoted from avspin:

You can come over and take a look at mine if you like. I have the YBR version in my RR.

I thought these were the "YBR" version..

https://modfatherpinball.com/products/wizard-of-oz-yellow-brick-road-pinball-gameblades

#8352 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

What kind of replacement? What is it you need? Once the monkey is dialed in he works pretty well overall. A noise filter is a ground loop isolator like they use in car stereos - cheap and widely available and knocks the surface noise/ static down. If you have an Automated GG (green game) your machine was probably built with one installed at the factory.
amazon.com link »

Oh thanks for the info. I could use this for my TWD machine as I do get a "buzz" noise. I assume that is what you are talking about.

Yes, Automated GG...

I dont need anything now but I have read a lot of issue with that thing. The one that I am getting a replacement for was making a grinding noise about halfway down sometimes when putting in test mode. I assume it needs some grease of sorts... And what is the best way to make the monkey travel further down if needed? I know the switch is screwed into the metal..

#8355 4 years ago
Quoted from avspin:

I have the PinGraffix ones. The same ones PinGraffix supplies to JJP for the YBR game. I don't know anything about the modfather ones. Those look pretty dark to me.

Agreed. I ordered from PinGraffix also.

#8356 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Bend the microswitch actuator down ever so slightly while holding the arm down closed against the body. Never adjust any microswitch without holding it closed or you will break the arm off the switch. Bending the curved end down a touch will allow him to travel a thread or two farther down. Too far and he will plug on top of the ball so not too far / you want him to stop just left of the midway point of the playfield magnet core with the monkey plastic removed
Yes white lithium grease shoot it on a rag and work it into the threads don’t leave excess or it will splatter all over everything.

Perfect, thanks!!

#8358 4 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I need these now! Where can I get them?

PinGraffix.

#8360 4 years ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

I put those in my RR, quick and easy, no removing the playfield.

Great! excited! Now if USPS can stop losing my packages!

#8379 4 years ago

So I finally received my pinblades and I am a bit surprised to find that they are not "blades" but simply a decal. When I got pinblades for my GB machines, they were a much thicker material of plastic.

These ones for WOZ are going to be a b*tch to install. I dont see how it would be possible to do it without taking the playfield out.

#8381 4 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Thanks for posting this. I was about to order these but I want blades not a decal.

They are a bit thicker than just a sticker but I wouldnt call them "blades". I feel the description is misleading calling them a thick vinyl.. That they are not..

I was suspicious when i saw them completely rolled up in the box..

#8384 4 years ago
Quoted from bigbadmiker:

Same thoughtsand concerns here. Just got mine and was surprised how thin they are compared to the Aerosmith ones I installed on my cousin's pin. Those were thick material coated with what looked to be polycarbonate similar to arcade control panel overlays. I just hope these WOZ blade decals last when lifting up the playfield.

Thats exactly what my thoughts are too and also how my GB blades were. I got these in the mail today as im tired of worrying about the sides and wooden edges when lifting the field.. https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

Another question, mine seem a bit on the darker side. Are your guys like this too? I know.. I sound like a real picky dude but it is what it is..

#8389 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

wet method worked fine for the install of my blades (from pingraffix - the JJP official ones I posted earlier).

Im going to have to give this method a try. I watched a video of it and it seems by doing it with soap/water mixture, makes it to be far less stuck if needing to wiggle it around a bit.

#8403 4 years ago

Hey guys, got my replacement machine and everything is good. Noticed that the wizard etching is hardly lit. The three lights are on but dont seem bright at all and its hard to even see any green through the etching. Any Ideas?

#8405 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Pic? Likely a bad LED strip since it's really all that there is to that light. Make sure it is firmly plugged in under the playfield. Otherwise simple swap if they need to send you a new one.

Here are pics. the second pic, you can see the green lights under the etching on. Again, they seem dim..

20190728_192419 (resized).jpg20190728_192419 (resized).jpg20190728_192436 (resized).jpg20190728_192436 (resized).jpg
#8414 4 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

Make sure the green LED strip is directly under the wizard and not slid slightly behind him. Raise him up and move the strip forward if needed then lower him back down.

Yea I thought that at first. I actually took the etching off as well as the light strip and played around with it, nothing would light up the etching.

I filled out a support form on JJP.com...

#8415 4 years ago

Two questions for you guys.

Can anyone with the Pingraffix JJP Pinblades share pictures? I got a set but they seem quite dark and have been hesitant to put them on. Curious.

Second, I noticed last night that my back box bolts stick out quite a bit inside the cabinet. Is this normal for this game? I can push it in to get it flat which pushes the bolt outward on the outside, but it ends up working itself back to where it was...

#8418 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

How about a video?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a8heXH1fpd7f6ARB6
I think those are the ones you're asking about.
The shoulder bolts don't tighten to the cabinet, they have a collar on them which prevent them from squeezing the cabinet so they can act as hinges. IF they are tightened together then you're set.

Great thanks! I do feel mine are darker than normal...

And thanks for the info on the shoulder bolts. I thought they were supposed to be against the cabinet.. They are tight. I couldnt even get them unscrewed and didnt want to crank on them if they arent a problem.

#8420 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

It's a bit tight to undo them, for sure. But I realized that you don't need to. I did it on my POTC and then realized the WOZ already had the cutouts. So you should be fine to not have to talk them off.

Im actually not sure the cutouts on the pinblades are large enough. Will need to double check that. But I am going to be sending back my pinblades as im not overly impressed with them. The colors seem overly saturated making it all seem too dark compared to pictures ive seen.

#8421 4 years ago

Has anyone ever purchased any mods from WOZMODS.com?

I saw this decal package and it seems like a good deal. Just want to make sure the quality is there...
ebay.com link: COMPLETE Wizard of OZ Pinball Target Decal Set for WOZ Standard LE or 75th MOD
http://wozmods.com/index3.htm

#8423 4 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Harry, that's a nicely lit playfield! Do you have Pinstadiums on the machine or just overhead lighting when you took the video? Or is it just the added spots?

I see a lot of spotlights. 7 added from what I can see..

Where do the spotlights connect to on this machine? Since everything is light boards, im not as familiar I would like to add spots as well and I have some extras..

#8433 4 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

I have bought a few things from them, including the decal package. I have had them on my WOZRR for over 2 years. All holding up well and look good. The only one that shows any wear at all is the Glenda decal, but that one takes a beating so I expect it there.

Quoted from bigbadmiker:

My order just showed up today. They look pretty damn nice.

Thanks!

#8437 4 years ago
Quoted from Walleyefisher:

Is there a way to see total games played after you have updated the code? Seems like it reset everything going to the newest code.
Thanks

I would believe it wipes everything clean when you do an update.

#8447 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

That may be true when doing a full update but again if you backup your settings and audits and then restore them it should preserve everything.

Yes, but from what he wrote, I didnt sound like it was backed up.

#8454 4 years ago
Quoted from Walleyefisher:

Actually I bought the game from a guy who had just done the code update. Total play counter was at like 38 or something and I know the game has more like several hundred.

Right. So it sounds like he didnt back it up and the settings and stuff erased...

#8455 4 years ago

Question for you guys.

I feel like during multiball, even though the extra ball is lit and when I get to the throne room, it says Extra Ball, but I feel like im not actually getting them. I feel like I also notice that the extra ball light stays lit and when MB ends, then I can actually gain an extra ball.

Normal?

#8457 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Definitely not normal, though sometimes it does seem to take a while for the E.B. insert to go out after you collect it you should be getting awarded that ball even when in Multiball. Perhaps you picked up one MB and then somehow lit another one while the ball in the the throne room (throne room award animation may be running which delays kicking it out) and then got that one on a subsequent shot to the throne room after MB was over?

Its possible that is what happened.

But if its not, I would imagine thats a coding issue? Extra Ball seems to work fine as well as everything else at all other times.

#8458 4 years ago

Another question, when you gain an extra ball, does it show that anywhere on the display or just show "2 more balls" or whatever?

#8460 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

You should get the loud "Extra Baaalll!!" call-out from the wizard and another ball shown in how many you have left on the display.

Yea I hear the call out. Thats why I feel like during multi ball, its not actually giving it to me.

Ill have to try and pay more attention. Once MB starts, sh*t goes crazy lol.

Over the weekend the wife and kid were out and I was having a beer and playing WOZ. scored 1.9mm on the first ball (extra balls?), and was doing great. Just as I was about to start my second ball, they come home and come to where I am playing. The next two balls drained in about 10 seconds lol. Hell of a first ball though!

#8462 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I think we've all had moments like that, I love my wife but there are times like this when you don't want anyone to come in a mess up your mojo. Not that it's really their fault, you should be able to isolate it though that can be hard to do without being / appearing to be rude. More common for me is the "I'm going to play one (more) quick game before we have to leave" situation then proceed to start blowing up the game. I'm sure we've all been there / done that too.

hahahah oh yes! Not either of their faults. I was just so happy about the score I had that I told them I just needed to finish up. They sat and watched quietly.. And then my wife said "Well, looks like we are definitely your bad luck charms, lol".

#8465 4 years ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

I wanted to give a major shout out to the brand new Wizard side blade art. AMAZING... I've added a lot of mods to my wizard and this new side blade art takes the cake. Well that is until I can get my flying monkey and witch mod! LOL[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have to send mine back as they are far too dark. Yours look good. My yellow brick road is almost brown... doesnt look right..

I assume yours are from Pingraffix?

Also, whats the flying monkey mod?

#8468 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Flying monkey mod is the companion to the red smoke witch mod.
Really excellent work from Steve Gouvia.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-witch-red-smoke-mod
Unfortunately the list is closed and the non-existant wait list is also closed lol
I'm very happy with my set.

How was the install on the Monkey Mod? Make me nervous to mess around with that as i finally have it working perfectly.

EDIT - saw the install video. Not too bad at all. I guess I will wait around until a new list forms..

#8470 4 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I was surprised at how much force was required to bend the rail to the left of the castle door and wiring/placing the LED strip was a bit 'squishy' for my taste. Overall though the installation is straightforward and the instructional video is helpful as well. Back to the question, you don't really 'mess' with the monkey mech as part of the installation. I would think that the chances of having your monkey become AFU as a result of installing this mod would be somewhere in the area of very slim to none.

Right, i saw that its probably hard to mess up after seeing the install video.

Question, does anyone have any good pictures of how that new monkey sits up at the castle when not being used? Curious how much it is hidden and also how that added piece to hide him looks..

-1
#8476 4 years ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

Y’all probably know this already, but on the off chance ya don’t, as I didn’t, this little post sure does make it easier to get rescue multi-ball. Now I’m battling the witch all the time. Previously prevented by rescue multiball. I didn’t even know this option was available until I started putting Cliffys on this thing. [quoted image]

Sorry but I am no fan of changing the game to make it easier to me. Be sure to mention that if you are posting any scores as that is not how the game is intended to be played.

#8477 4 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Just be sure to remain focused. Don't monkey around!

Lol

#8479 4 years ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

It’s intended to be played for fun... I’ll be sure to post all me settings with my scores just as long as you be sure to post all your settings, along with a disclaimer that you only play the game the “way it was meant to be played” and that you are a true pinball purest.

I think everyone knows that you post the scores normally with no tweaks, and if adding tweaks, then it needs to be mentioned.

Sorry, fun to me isnt making it easier to run through the game. Fun to me is learning how to play better and to finally achieve what you werent able to before.

-3
#8482 4 years ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

I see you are new to this machine and to this thread. I also see that you’ve received a lot help/support from the excellent people here. If you are looking to be the fun police, maybe you should think of going somewhere else. Here, people are really kind and helpful. We get excited about our WOZ machines, and share with one another in a positive way.

Lol, I think you are getting a bit sensitive. My main issue was with people tweaking the game to make it easier and then posting scores. I am a score player. I like to see how I compare to others out there. Yes, I know, all machines play differently, but tweaking a game to allow it to be easier, in turn, getting better scores, just isnt apples to apples.

You want to go and make it easier for you and you find that fun, you go right ahead. Ill never understand it myself but my main point was to be taken about the scoring.

-5
#8484 4 years ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

Talk about sensitivity. Sheesh. You are ultra sensitive. Policing others’ posts so that you make sure your score comparisons don’t become tainted at some point in the future. I mentioned nothing about scores. I don’t post scores. Simply pointed out a piece of the game that was fun to me, thought I’d share with y’all, and here you are, the fun police, the score police.
WOZ is a fun game! It has rainbows on it! Lighten up Francis.

Lol, ok mr. sensitive. Time to grow some pinballs...

#8486 4 years ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

Wow. Maybe you know. Maybe not. But you are becoming a troll. The others here may wish to stay tuned to find out but not me. My first pinsider ignored.

Look whos talking. I made one comment with valid reason and you freak out and act like a 6 year old. Get over it dude..

#8487 4 years ago

Just curious, has anyone seen these pinblades in person? Curious of what they think?

https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/wizard-of-oz-yellow-brick-road-gameblades

#8489 4 years ago
Quoted from Insanity199:

I saw that when it wasn’t sold yet. I gave it some thought and when I saw it again, it was sold. I just worried about a relatively early run sitting for 6 years. What issues would be experienced? Of course, for 6500, you could spend a bit on fixes and still be in great shape.
Snooze and you lose.
Sincerely,
Loser. .

LOL!

I dont know, for $6,500, I probably would have jumped on it. Although having to change the light boards sounds like a mega chore. Worth the trade off?? hmmnnnn

#8494 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I thought about buying it, upgrading the light boards and trying to flip it for $8500 or more but decided I would rather see someone else hopefully get a good deal on it.

Well that was nice of you. And I bet you certainly could have sold it for that easily... Either way, someone is happy!

#8496 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Hey rager - I wasn't going to say anything but then you're telling someone to grow pinballs? How about you don't be a jerk off and care so much about how many points you get on a big toy?
Guess what? Nobody cares

I told him that after he repeatedly kept going at me. Ive never seen someone get so uptight over something so simple..

This is pinball, the machine is made for scoring. That is the point of the machine.

#8500 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

The machine is made for having fun, and this thread is made for helping each other and sharing our joy of owning a WOZ. That is the point of the machine (and that is the point of the thread).

I think the point is being lost. My only comment was that I dont understand why people choose to make it easier an if they do, just mention that if posting scores.

None of which is a big deal or to be taken offensively.

#8502 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Not for me it isn't and many others. Point being no one wants to hear you tell others about how a game should be setup. I'm seeing you do the same thing in the Ghostbusers thread. It's douchey. Just stop it.
Then you're telling a guy to grow a pair? That's just too much. Chill.

Well maybe you should consider what he said to me first and realize where my comment came from. Snarky comments and then telling me to find a new thread. Sorry, I dont sit around and take that.

Also to mention, in the GB thread, I was curious why people were moving the flippers and wasnt sure if it was only to make the shot easier. I didnt say anything about anything there except that I notice that a lot of people like to tweak things on that machine. Really, nothing to get upset over..

#8503 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

The point is not lost, people chose to make it easier so they can have fun, which per my post above is what a pinball is for.

Right. And I wasnt making fun of that. I dont get it but wasnt knocking it. Again, all i was saying was to mention it when posting scores. Simple as that.

#8519 4 years ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

I bought a Testors paint set like you paint models with. You can mix colors to get the proper hue. This is good for small chips. If your side rails or lock bar are chipped replacements are available from JJ as long as you have a Ruby Red. ECLE green is no longer available, at least the side rails. The side rails are cheap. Lock bar is not so cheap.

Funny, I was just looking into this as well. I was curious if anyone is selling the green side rails? I didnt see it on the JJP website but I emailed them about it. I got a chip in mine most likely from being a little careless with the lockdown bar.

I bought this to give a try, but not sure... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008F7V6NK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

#8522 4 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Hi all.
A new software update for Wizard of Oz pinball is now available for download! Please note, Version 7.02 is a Full Install.
For the full change log: https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/woz/woz_changelog.txt
To download: https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/woz/WizardOfOz-v07.02.iso
[quoted image]

Excellent! Any way to read about what was changed?

#8528 4 years ago

Lol, sorry LTG! Totally missed the change log link...

#8529 4 years ago

Now the question of... Where is the backup setting so that when I load 7.02, I can reload all my settings and not lose them?

#8531 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It's been a while but I believe it's under utilities under the main menu.

Ill check it out. Thanks!

#8548 4 years ago

Couple questions for you guys...

One, my ball has a tenancy to get stuck on the Winkie target when its down, on the backside of it. Assuming the target just needs to be raised slightly?

Second, for the rollover switches for Tinman, Lion, Toto... How high/low should these be. I see that when the ball is rolling calmly on the playfield, these obstruct the balls path. Should they do that?

Thanks.

#8552 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Bottom of the drop target assembly is a nut, loosen it, the turn the screw to raise the drop target, then retighten the nut.
LTG : )

Thanks once again sir!

#8553 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Yes to both. Level the Winkie target, either up or down, whatever is required. And, slow balls will be deflected by the rollovers.

Ok good to know. Thanks.

For the Toto outlane, i feel like the second "t" is always passed by due to deflection unless its rolling fairly quick..

#8572 4 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

This is probably why you can use your flippers to select which button is blinking.

Wow, I never noticed this! Thanks!

#8573 4 years ago
Quoted from homegameroom:

Yep. I did that- it still won’t light up during gameplay.

I feel like mine lights orange when needed to be broken down during game play..

#8575 4 years ago
Quoted from homegameroom:

Ditto. I'm pretty sure it's orange and changes to green, just like the SEARCH light on the same pf.

But yours isnt lighting at all during play? Hmmnn that is strange. Perhaps a code upgrade is needed?

#8614 4 years ago
Quoted from Skipnatty:

One item of note is that you're also scoring some decent points in TNPLH so it's definitely worth your time, especially in later code revisions where your progress saves (or can be saved) between balls...I agree it's not easy, but I also agree that any chance to save a ball on this game is totally worth it as the outlanes are brutal lol

That I did not realize with the scoring. Funny, the other day I was thinking to myself.. "man, has anyone completed the 4 stages???"

#8619 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I completed it 3 times in 1500 games, it’s also a good way to practice some important shots, I’m not too bad with the crystal ball shot but getting the throne room is still a challenge.
Speaking of shots I still don’t have a solid method to hit B-A from BALL, it happens randomly. Any tips ?

haha, im random on that also. Im newer to the machine as you may know, so still experimenting. I also have a hard time getting that throne room. I tend to undershoot it... I do love that little mini game as a chance to save your ball. Great touch to the game..

#8627 4 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

I accidentally drunk ordered 2x of the Mezelmods State Fair LED's:
https://mezelmods.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/products/wizard-of-oz-pinball-state-fair
Anyone want my "extra" for $20 shipped in US? It's still NIB (New In Bag). I can't bear to face my mistake and return it, so my loss is your gain?! PM me! (I'll edit post if sold.)
PSA. Don't drunk mod shop kids.

PM sent...

#8628 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Oh, right. I almost forgot that the castle walls didn't come with the ECLEs. That's a RR plus.
Toto in the basket is kind of junky, IMO. Looks like a modder bad idea.

Anyone have a picture of the RR castle walls? Or know who was making them for JJP? Just curious to see what they look like compared to the ones sold by Modfather and Back Alley.

1 week later
#8725 4 years ago

Man, this machine has not been very kind to me lately haha. Im pretty surprised that JJP didnt think the game needed any "shoot again" time after launching the ball. Sometimes I drain almost immediately, especially on that left side drain

#8728 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

There is a ball save in the settings and if you play on location I think every operator should use it, it's too frustrating to drain right away.

Yes I know and Im very much the type to keep things the way that they are from the factory in regards to things that affect the gameplay. But man, not sure if im having a bad streak or what but im just flying through games due to drains lately.

#8731 4 years ago

Question about mods connecting to the topper splitter. I assume that its ok to have several daisy chains off of this? I just received my Haunted Forest LED mod and Trough LED mod, and both connect to the topper splitter.

So, assume that multiple connections onto this is ok?

#8733 4 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

2 or 3 mods off topper is Ok.
Several mod sellers sell a splitter, do yourself a favor and pick up a couple. Marcos has them at a good price.

Thanks. Yea, I actually ordered both mods with the splitter assuming I would need them.

Thanks again.

#8764 4 years ago
Quoted from FalconDriver:

Hope to join club soon. Can anyone tell me
if the new run of RR suppose taking place this year have the monkey mech? I assume no
as much discussion on the YBR will not.

I was told by a distributor that the new RRs will not have the Monkey Mech...

#8766 4 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Is it documented anywhere as to what the differences are between the Emerald version and the Green (Automated) version. I know the Emerald has the wooden apron and the Green has the 2.0 Light boards as well as a decal cabinet. What other differences are there?

I have a green edition. I believe the only differences are the apron and the topper. It comes with the standard topper. Mine also came with the 2.0 boards that were installed after production by JJP.

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#8769 4 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Thanks Rager170! Looking for someone interested in trading their WoZ for Houdini + cash. Had someone with a Green Edition interested, hence the question, but they decided to sell their machine outright so I am still in the hunt.

ahhh gotcha. Well if it comes up again, the Green Edition has been great!

#8781 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

It’s all about stacking. The most lucrative stack is to combine Munchkin frenzy with a multiball (EC or Rescue or both if you can swing it) with a crystal ball mode for 2x scoring. The frenzy points really add up. Just remember that they are awarded during the bonus so don’t tilt!
If you can get to Haunted Forest MB and stack that with a crystal ball mode, that can also yield huge points.
It is worth figuring out what stack combinations you can get to and how lucrative they can be. It is hard to always make things come together, but when they do, the game can really come alive, and the points are crazy.

What exactly is the trick to getting the Forest MB? I did this one and have no clue how it happened.

Also, is there a Crystal Ball MB? I could have sworn this happened also. It was an intense game so I couldn't focus on everythign going on lol

#8783 4 years ago
Quoted from Thot:

yes for Forest and Crystal ball multiball you just have to starts the 4 modes eatch (weak flipper, no old flipper, no light and light on for CB), the last will be MB

Gotcha. Thanks!

#8785 4 years ago

Has anyone increased their LED brightness? I was just looking at some pictures and noticed that in the pictures, the GI and insert lights seemed much brighter than what is normal.

Just curious. It would be nice to have the leds under plastics be brighter..

#8786 4 years ago

Anyone know if there is a setting for GI brightness alone and not insert lighting? I saw some talks on this in the forums but in the manual, it doesn't show this.

Would like to increase the GI but leave inserts at the current level.

#8788 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No.
LTG : )

Well that takes care of that. Thanks again as always.

#8790 4 years ago

I noticed something strange last night and cant really figure it out yet.

Once in a while I hear a "clicking" noise that does it about 4 times then stops. I cant figure where its coming from and I dont see any game play being affected. Its not a coil firing as its not that loud but certainly loud enough to be heard clearly. I noticed that it happened when going into the trough and also once after going into the throne room.

Any ideas?

#8792 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Possibly the anti-jam action of the ball eject solenoid soft-firing if the balls haven't rolled down or something is blocking the jam opto?

Could be. This sounds more like its coming from the middle or upper playfield under area. Where exactly is that jam opto?

#8794 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Drop target raise or trip coil firing.

Its not the winkie target as I was actually messing with that at the time. What is a trip coil?

This is like a ticking or clicking. Different from an actual coil stop noise.

#8795 4 years ago

Also to mention, i noticed a setting in the coil menu for Drop Target (down). Now the setting for Drop Target (up) is the winkie, but down doesnt seem to do anything and makes a very similar sound to what I was referring to.

#8798 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Small coil that "trips" the drop target when the game wants to knock it down on its own. Mounted on the same assembly and sometimes can overheat under the right circumstances.

Interesting. I will have to check that out as in the settings when I tested the drop target to go down, it made a noise but didnt do anything. Maybe it was down already and I didnt realize.

#8799 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It's the sling under the munchkin playfield.
Vibration is setting it off.
The switches are set a little close.
Also check the condition of the rubber on it.
The right side is a bit tight and causes wear.
Open the gaps 1/16" more.

it could be this as well. need to do more experimenting. Thanks.

#8821 4 years ago

Question for you guys who have the haunted forest illumination mod. I installed this but one thing that annoys me is that you can see the reflection/glare of the LED's from the strip that is mounted under the upper playfield. Any solutions to stop that?

#8825 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

I don't have that mod, but in the past, I've used black nail polish (and other similar things) to paint the sides or bottoms of LEDs to make them more directional.

Interesting.

#8835 4 years ago
Quoted from Walleyefisher:

I purchased the cliffy to protect the edges of the munchkin playfield and when I start looking at disassembly it's somewhat daunting. Has anyone done this and if so how bad was it?
Thanks

I bought the modfather protector for that. Much easier and im happy with the way it looks. https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-munchkinland-chrome-edge-protector

#8842 4 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

I think I recall seeimg some links posted before but what PC motherboard are people buying as a replacement or a backup?

This is a great question. I was talking to some people the other day saying how pinball machines can last decades upon decades if cared for. Then they asked if this was the case for WOZ since it has a computer inside. Scratched my head and said, hmmmnnn im sure a replacement would be needed at some point.

Although, motherboards can last a long time. With PC's, its usually hard drive and other things failing.

#8843 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

I'm only seeing used ones for sale now. Are there any better options?

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813130731?Description=MSI%2fH81M-P33&cm_re=MSI%2fH81M-P33-_-13-130-731-_-Product

I would imagine there are several motherboards that would work as a replacement for this..

#8850 4 years ago
Quoted from homegameroom:

Are there any other electronic/electrical parts will be unobtanium in the future that are reasonably "available" today?

I highly doubt future motherboards would be incompatible with what is running today.

Any computer experts out there to chime in on this?

The pricing for this MSI mobo is really inflated. I would imagine there are cheaper options that can work just fine.

#8854 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Code updates ensure that newer parts like what is in hobbit will function, in a pinch.

ahhh very good point.

#8872 4 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

The insert lenses are fine. The general illumination, not so much. The following photos were taken in a very dimly lit room (so that they would show the playfield illumination from the game itself without much help from the room lights). This took some adjusting with my camera settings because modern cameras are really good at compensating for different light situations and making things look better than they really do. I feel that these are VERY close to what my game looks like in a dim room to the naked eye.
Here is a photo of the game in test mode with all of the leds (inserts and gi) set to white:
[quoted image]
See how all of the inserts are nice and bright? Good, right? But look at the slingshots and the other plastics that have the gi lights under them. They are barely lit. Barely any light transmits through the plastics (I had to look under the brown one at the lower left of the playfield to see if the light was actually working). Almost no light makes it onto the playfield from the gi.
For the next photo, I toggled the test mode into gi only, again set to white.
[quoted image]
Comparing the two, you can see that under the 2.0 system the game is really only lit by the ambient room lights and the inserts. Had I turned off the lights in my game room, you would not have been able to see the playfield art in the second photo at all.
I reached out to JJP about this. Butch looked into it and concluded that this is standard 2.0 light operation. He said that since the light tubes for the gi are not as efficient as the insert lenses at transmitting light, the gi lighting is always going to be dimmer than the inserts unless something can be done in code to allow the gi to be turned up. He said he would send a note to the code team about it.
Aside from the propensity to occasionally fail, I miss my original lighting.

They need a GI only adjustment..

#8892 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

This is crazy! It's SO much darker with version 2.0 than the doomed (at some point) v1.1 that I have. Check out my pics I just took. It looks like I have pinstadium lights or something. It's stock, except for added leds around the pops. It really looks brighter in the older, flawed version. Am I wrong? (I do have the room lights on.)
[quoted image][quoted image]

In these pictures, it looks like all of the LEDs are very bright compared to my game, inserts as well.

Have you tried adjusting the led brightness to compensate?

#8905 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Just saw a post from Flip-N-Out that they have one of the new RRs available and it does have the Monkey Mech still, so two questions answered there. He did not post a price of course.

Thats interesting because a distributor told me they wouldnt have them. So either he wanted me to buy what I bought or the picture of the new RR is a picture of the older edition?

#8907 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Or it was uncertain if this new run would have them and your disti assumed or was told they wouldn't include the Monkey, there seemed to be a lot of uncertainty about this and I'm guessing it's because JJP never really said for certain one way or the other. Zach says he has the game in his possession so I trust him when he says it includes the Monkey.[quoted image]

Yup, I agree especially if they have it in possession like that.

#8910 4 years ago

Have you pressed F2? J/K.

I would reinstall the code but im really have no idea with that one...

#8914 4 years ago
Quoted from Bearcat:

We purchased a new RR last week... due tomorrow
blockquote cite="#5219822">Are RR’s available NIB? I am still new to WOZ and whether they are available or not.

They are running another production either now or very soon.

#8915 4 years ago

Question about backing up your settings on a USB drive.

If I backup my info on a USB stick, can I use that same stick for updating the game code? Basically saying, the backup save data would be on the stick as well as the game code for installation.

Wasnt sure if the machine would get confused by that?

#8931 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I wouldn't. Updates should be a separate stick with nothing else on them.
LTG : )

Figured as much. Thanks!

#8934 4 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Has anyone reached out to JJP to ask what their plan is to address inevitable motherboard failure down the line? It worries me that we might be looking down the barrel of a situation like any old solid state game where motherboards have to be repaired on a component level or wait for a third party to build a custom replacement board.

Was just curious about this as well. Because the motherboards they used, for one, are about gone and what is left are inflated prices.

#8940 4 years ago

So it sounds like they are going to have to be up on this if multiple games are using the same hardware.

#8947 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

My 2.0 upgrade kit is almost there, hopefully it arrives tonight so I can get on it this weekend. I am scared, the task looks daunting, but I'm excited !

Good luck! I agree, its extremely involved and not something I would want to be doing.

#8964 4 years ago
Quoted from Mnluz:

Is it woth to sell a std woz (everything works) and get a ruby red with low plays ?
O love WOz and there will allways be one in my collection, but the yellow brick is not for me

I wouldnt myself due to the cost difference.

#8965 4 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

For those of you that don't read Gouviea's WOZ Witch and Monkey mod thread regularly, he just announced that his 3rd WOZ mod is coming (no idea what it is yet). But with how amazing his first 2 are, and the fact that they are both done and there is a HUGE list of people still wanting them, you may want to get over to the thread and keep an eye on it!!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-witch-red-smoke-mod/page/52#post-5227495

Lol, you guys are insane. I would never pay $200 bucks for that. Its cool and all, but no thanks!

#8967 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

pinballgoddess was not impressed by it.
Do the $200 goes towards a shaker motor for her Doctor Who instead.

I believe you can get them for less that $200...

#8969 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I'm getting the pinsound one.
$189+shipping

yea, the ones I was looking at are for newer machines I believe from Pinballlife.com.

Regardless, yes, shakers are needed!

#8974 4 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

Is that really $200? Or are you talking about the witch mod?

No, its really $200.. $189 plus shipping.

#8975 4 years ago

Do you guys wax underneath the upper playfields? And if so, how do you do that? Seems almost impossible unless you remove them, and thats a PITA.

#8985 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

The moment I realize I need a break.
My power supply doesnt have the short wire between -V and GND, so I was about to take my car and go back to the hardware store, slightly cursing on myself for another ride.
I went to get my keys on the table and saw this....[quoted image]

That is quite the task! Wow.

#8986 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Cleaning WOZ is pretty easy.
Vacuum out hard to reach places with a micro adapter kit.
I use a mist n shine dampened flannel cloth pushed through the alleys with a wooden spoon handle. Rolled up paper towel also works.
Followed by a dry one.
Keeping it clean is more important than wax.

I have thought about wrapping microfiber around something like a wooden spoon but didnt think it would fit through due to the turns under both playfields. Guess I will be giving that a shot in future.

#8994 4 years ago

Anyone have or know where I can get an extra Winkie Drop Target decal? Mine was scrapping on a lip and while i was able to fix it with some clear tape, want to fix it for good.

#8996 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I always have to slice off about 3/16" off the bottom of the drop target decals to keep them from bunching up.
The goody bag might have a spare, mine did.

Yes, that exactly what happened. The clear tape seemed to fix it but...

Ahhh yes, I forgot about the goodie bag. I will have to check that. Good idea..

#9000 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Just received an RR #708. Yea!
Now I cannot figure out how to get any of the Device Tests to run. I can navigate to the device tests menu. I can change between tests, but none of the tests will run. I have tried them with the door closed and with the safety interlock pulled out. Nothing seems to make the test run. Manual does not work. Auto does not work.
What am I doing wrong? The manual does not mention how to activate the tests.
Thanks

Press the "start" button to run the tests.

#9003 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

I tried that. It does not seem to do anything. The flippers do work though.

Hmmnn I feel like I had this problem and realized i was pressing the "enter" button and not the "start" button.

#9004 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

One other issue I cannot figure out is that the topper does not light up. Does it have a light sensor or should it just be on all of the time?

It should be on after the booting screens. it stays on.

#9011 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

The enter button just keeps switching between Manual and Auto.

Thats why I said to press the Start button, not the enter button.

#9013 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Yes the game boots and plays.
There are two BLUE connectors that go to the topper. The light strip is connected to one of the BLUE wire connectors. The other connector is not connected to anything. I disconnected the connector and reconnected it and the light is still off. I am hesitant at connecting the light to the other connector not knowing what it is for.[quoted image]

I would be looking more at where those wires connect to that big metal box. I had a bunch of loose connections right off the bat. I still do from barely touching things. Its quite annoying actually.

#9016 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Do any of the devices you are trying to test (assume the house and Monkey?) work in game? Are the spotlights on?
As @rager170 suggested follow those wires for the topper strip down to the Metal box? Is the metal box with the PC in it still in the bottom of the cabinet on these new RRs or did it get moved to the backbox?

Man, I feel bad for him. Nothing worse than having an issue first thing on a new machine... I had that problem when I got mine, but mine was a super dud! lol

Hopefully he gets everything sorted out soon.

#9017 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

PC is now the the back box.
Two connects were not flush so I turned the machine off and reseated them. The device tests seem to work now. Yes, there is a lot of tension pulling the connectors to the side.
So the device test is fixed.
Topper I cannot figure out and there is no way the LH outlane post is going to fit into its RH hole.

The outlane post definitely should. This has tricked a lot of people thinking it would slide over but once they removed it, they found that it did fit in the right hole..

#9044 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I took a small screw driver and pushed the tip up on one side from below and then it snapped into position. 5 seconds.
LTG : )

I used some needle nose pliers to grab the tip and pull through. Went quite easily with a little light wiggling.

#9053 4 years ago

Was curious about something while playing last night.

How does one change the flipper rubbers with those ruby slippers on them?

#9057 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Monkey Help - I have a new RR and the Monkey never picks up the ball. The ball was captured on the play field, the monkey went down to pick up the ball, it looked like the monkey grabbed the ball and then the ball fell off just as the monkey started rising.
I could not find any references as to how to solve this issue. Thanks

Check the magnet sense board?

#9067 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Adjust the upper limit switch so your monkey travels a little bit farther.
LTG : )

Mine does this on occasion also. Always been curious why it looks like the metal framing there has a cutout to let the ball out to drop down? Doesnt look like its needed for ball travel going up from the monkey. Could be wrong...

#9074 4 years ago

I just received replacement rails from Robert Stone as mine were getting chipped up from the lockdown bar. Excellent work, check it out.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered/page/34#post-5233734

Now how to avoid this in the future.. hmmnnnn

#9095 4 years ago
Quoted from Homebru:

I had the exact same problem. I wound up putting the CB base on top of the wireform and that helped. The molex connector is now also below the wireform, which I think offers better protection. It helped with the vertical alignment, but mine still requires a bit of a right lean like yours. Almost seems like the base bracket should have an eccentric or oval hole to allow alignment adjustment.

This is a great idea and an issue i have also. My horizontal seems fine..

Another question about the CB. When its blank and not showing anything, I can see like small bubbles, almost like a film is left on the screen or something. Anyone else notice this or have a fix?

#9099 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Lol
It's a plastic ball glued onto a little oled screen....

So everyone has these bubbles? Sorry, I missing the point of your post.

#9101 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

To some extent yes.
Sorry, I found it humorous to seek perfection in a tiny plastic ball that goes unnoticed for the most part.
It made me chuckle...
And though way cool, doesnt do anything really.

Thats my OCD kicking in. I have a tenancy to notice tiny imperfections. My wife calls it my "binocular eyes" lol.

I love the crystal ball! I think its cool to see the images in there.

But my main point was that I wasnt sure if there was a plastic film on the screen that could be removed. I thought I saw tiny screws coming from the screen into the crystal ball, so wasnt sure if it could be cleared up.

#9142 4 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Thanks gents. I just went ahead and ordered the Modfather ruby red shooter rod and housing:
https://modfatherpinball.com/products/woz-ruby-red-shooter-housing-shooter-pincup?_pos=11&_sid=00bd4fdd7&_ss=r
I don't need a separate volume control, if anyone has a high quality decal or magnet for the blank coin door square, let me know. The start button is plain too, I'll search around to see if there's anything available to jazz that up. My hobbit right next to WOZ is all pimped out, but the WOZ is still pretty plain. Time to dress it up.

Careful when you bolt in the legs with that cup. I have the green one and it cracked the paint off pretty good. May want to add a washer or something.

Also, color changing shooter rod... https://cointaker.com/products/led-lit-shooter-rods

#9150 4 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Good to know, but I didn’t order the pincup as I don’t drink when playing or care for the look. That mini corn field mod looks interesting, though. Lots of mod potential with this game, one could get really crazy and add thousands in mods. Reminds me of Tron, self control is a must

Where is the corn field mod?

#9151 4 years ago

Can the base of the corn mod be done in black to match the rail?

#9153 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yup. Can also make it a perfect rectangle so it is almost hidden.

Yea, thats what I am looking for.. the base to be hidden basically.

#9154 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yup. Can also make it a perfect rectangle so it is almost hidden.

Can you also please tell me how many inches long they are? I dont have a RR, so I am curious how far up the rail they can go or if I would need two depending.
I will need to measure at home also to see for myself how I would want it to sit.

#9156 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

6" in length. But can make them custom lengths to fit any area you want.

Ok great. Let me take a look when I have a chance and I will be in touch.

#9166 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I have one but that nut is under the playfield so I can't reach it. The only "method" I found is a flat wrench, but there is very little room to turn it, so it takes a lot of in, turn, out.
Also, I still have problems with the monkey that doesn't catch the ball. Yesterday I had 2 balls on the magnet, and the monkey grabbed both all the way to the castle. The second ball pushed the first one further on the playfield magnet, so I think I need to adjust the switch so the monkey goes a bit more down.
How do I adjust that switch ?

Its a leaf switch attached to where the monkey goes down and hits it to stop. You will see it when looking.

#9169 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

But how to adjust it ? Do I move the whole switch ?

You want to bend the switch slightly. But make sure you put pressure on where it is attached so the leaf part doesnt fly off.

#9188 4 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

Let me know what you think about it. I just got one and was disappointed with it. It is too dark and does not match the powder coating on my machine. I am not sure if I am going to use it or not.

Not to bash Modfather becuase I do like them, but I wasnt overly happy with my Emerald Green pingulp either. Color doesnt match and I feel its prone to chipping/cracking easy. When I bolted it in, the cracked and chipped a good amount from the leg bolts. Perhaps that's unavoidable. But it has a gritty textrure to it vs. other powder coatings that I have seen that are smooth.

#9194 4 years ago

Finally got my Cliffy order and was looking over the directions.

For anyone that has installed this, I have a question regarding the Castle VUK as the directions show this:

"Remove 11/32 nuts from witch and then remove metal plate and plastic witch window/protector (in pink). It simple slides right up and off. Be careful to weave it around her hat. • Next pry up the plastic and remove it. This will take some effort as it is on there snug. Work all the way around at each mount, do not pull too hard in one spot or you will break the plastic. Once it is off the posts, pull it towards the backbox and slide it out. Lift slightly as you pull it out to p revent the posts from scratching the plastic."

My question is: First it says that the plastic witch protector simply slides right up and off. But then the next step it says to pry up the plastic and remove it and that its on there snug and be careful not to break it.

Is this for a different plastic piece other than the witch tube housing? Confused by this.

And with this part of the cliffy, it came with a clear plastic cutout to go with this. I am assuming this is mylar?

#9203 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Standard is fine. Almost any of the things you can add on later. Biggest question is going to be 2.0 lighting and if you want the specific look of one of the editions. If you can find a SE with 2.0 lighting in good condition, go for it. But you can also get a green edition (from automated) new... so might be an option.
The RR toys are available from Backalley Creations. The ECLE has the cool green wood apron, on top of the color of the whole thing.

I would call Automated on the green one. I bought mine in July and I thought he had a bunch of them... But I did see them removed from the website. Was curious if maybe they were sent back to JJP for parts due to RR new release.

#9204 4 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

It doesn’t look like Automated has any of their “special” Emerald Cities left. However, they are listing the 2.0 light boards on their standards.
I think green is my favorite. YBR looks cool, but it’s a pretty steep price with other options out there.

I meant to send this to you..

I would call Automated on the green one. I bought mine in July and I thought he had a bunch of them... But I did see them removed from the website. Was curious if maybe they were sent back to JJP for parts due to RR new release.

The YBR is so overpriced. Not even sure why. Standard, LE and RR all play exactly the same and are essentially the same machines except the RR has more mods inside (which can be added on your own) and a different topper and the LE just has a different topper and that wooden apron. And obviously the color differences.

-3
#9206 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Don't forget the ECLE also has the direct print cabinets instead of decals. They and a very rare few early standards are the only ones like that.

Correct. To me thats a negative as you cant replace those...

#9210 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I don't think all ECLE has direct right?
Direct print to me are the best. You can always see the start of decals - it's cheapens the game imo.

Thats something that has never bothered me and im pretty picky.

Interesting to see what others "see"...

#9221 4 years ago

I never really understood the focus on different prints for side cabinets. In reality, you hardly see them when in a row with other machines.

1 week later
#9239 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Depends on what the buyer knows
But yes. A game with non 2.0 boards is worth less. How much? Maybe $800-1000k less I'd say.

Id say that depends on the buyer. Myself, I would never want to do the work to replace all of that. When I went to buy a WOZ, anything other than the 2.0 boards was a no sale.

#9250 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I dont like the over all dimness of the 2.0 system.
I really wish that they would issue a code fix for it.

They definitely need a GI adjustment in the menus.

#9252 4 years ago
Quoted from Dashmonster:

Ok here is my dilemma. I’m sending a check to my dealer for a NIB 75th RR today. Another dealer called me and said that JJ is going to run the Emerald City WOZ this week and could get one of those for an unknown price. Both of these are 2.0 and I assume same cabinet quality. The only difference I can think of is the wood apron in the EC. #choices

Theres also more mods/toys in the RR, different toppers and of course the color obviously. They all play the same and toys can be added later.

It comes down to personal preference.

#9255 4 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

You must be referring to the green emerald edition that Automated Services sells where the trim is green but it is not an ECLE that has the wood apron and direct print cabinet.

I thought Automated didnt have any more? Someone said that recently I thought.

I have one of the Green Editions and they do come with the 2.0 boards.

#9266 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I actually feel bad for the 2.0 light owners. There is a significant difference in the pop of the lights. From experience I would pass altogether on a WoZ that was 2.0 bc so much of what I like about WoZ is that ultra bright hazy looking dream like look out of the bright rgb inserts. No other machine looks like it even other jjp bc of the new boards. I have a Hobbit right next to our woz and the WoZ absolutely smokes it in that category.
I think the board issues are also overblown. I've owner 4 WoZ at this point. All 7.5 and maybe replaced 1 board ? It just hasn't been an issue and certainly not one where I would compromise the pop of the machine.

Id take dimmer lights vs. the the higher chance of the machine not working in the future.

Also, its just GI lighting. For inserts, you can adjust the brightness.

#9279 4 years ago
Quoted from Geremy13:

Hello everyone.,,,
I suppose I am happy to see this thread as well. I am guessing there were issues with the rest of the community on this game. I have not had enough time to read all posts regarding other folks opinions... which is really what I like,,, the good, the bad, the ugly...... just like to hear it straight. But I am guessing there were too many opinions that bashed it out of proportion.
Anyhow, I really like this community of people that enjoy this hobby and share all of their thoughts and ideas and experiences with various pinballs that they own or have played or want to own.
So, here I am. I am really interested in this game. I got to play it a year ago at the Louisville Expo,,, it was really cool. Since then I have purchased a Tron and a AC/DC.... I am really brand new, but have got bit. Now I think I want a WOZ.... but want to hear everybody's honest opinion.
I played it again this year, and my first impression was 'wow' this is a little dark. All of the videos that I have seen and make me want this game, and then I see it again in person and thought that the whole gameplay was darker than I remember......... As for the 'gameplay' it is hard for me to give an opinion because who can do that playing only for a few minutes after waiting in line to play......
Anyhow, What do you all think?... I mean 'Overall'. And how about price?.... I have an opportunity to purchase a Standard for about 8K, in stock and ready to ship, no waiting, no deposits, etc......
I have read about people saying that there are LE's that people are trying to sell for 7K but I can't seem to find them, so ........ just don't know.
Lastly, what is the difference between and LE (that people are dumping, but I can't find.)... and a Standard... that JJP will accept my deposit, but I have a seller right now NIB for same price.
All help appreciated. Really like the game and want honest opinions on all of the above.

My opinion would be to get the standard at the low price IF the 2.0 boards are installed. Everything else can be added.

#9280 4 years ago

This may be a dumb question but what is everyone's opinion of changing the balls that come from JJP initially with the game?

I know for Stern, the consensus is to get rid of them asap. I actually forgot that the factory ball were still in mine but havent noticed any heavy scratches from them.

#9282 4 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Always good to inspect your balls, clean them, hold them and roll around and fell if there is any odd bumps. Doctor recommended.

lol

#9309 4 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

I’m currently on code version 6.06.
Is it worth me updating to the latest code. Is there anything glaringly obvious that makes it better.
I’ve never owned a modern machine so have never updated code before

I dont see a reason not to. It is really quick and easy.

2 weeks later
#9419 4 years ago

My god, if I had one id happily sell it for that. The monkey mod is one that I dont really care to have. I want a new witch more than anything!

#9423 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Well, he's making more of those before more monkeys last I heard, so you'll likely get your chance.

Im hoping! Dont get me wrong, the Monkey is definitely a great mod, but the stock one doesnt bother me. I still just think its a really cool feature as it is.

The witch in the tube bothers me, so thats my priority.

#9424 4 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Lermods lighting mods installed in backboard, trough and haunted forest. Really nice improvement and I can actually see the playfield now. Still the prettiest game IMO.[quoted image]

I have the Haunted Forest mod too and im not really happy with it. You dont find it overly bright? I also have this glare where I can see the LED's on the playfield and it drives me crazy.

#9425 4 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Lermods lighting mods installed in backboard, trough and haunted forest. Really nice improvement and I can actually see the playfield now. Still the prettiest game IMO.[quoted image]

Also, what light boards do you have? The GI is very bright compared to mine... 2.0.

#9427 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

We haven't had feedback on it being too bright or we would offer a dimmer, but what you can do is cover one or two of the three SMDs with a piece of electrical tape if you want to tone it down. You can't cut it to make it shorter, however. We can offer a dimmer option if people do think it's too bright.

Thanks for chiming in, appreciated.. I am not sure if others agree, but to me, its overly bright vs. the rest of the machine and the glare of the LED's on the playfield definitely bother me. I did buy some of those colored gel filters to put over the lights to see if it can be toned down. I havent had a chance to play with it though.

#9429 4 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

I have no complaints with the Lermods LEDs, the game was way too dark before and now I see details I never saw before and the new lighting has reignited my interest in playing WOZ. It’s a late 2015 WOZRR with the 7.5 boards, they’ve always been super bright. Such a beautiful pin, it’s definitely a keeper! Looking for a monkey mod if anyone has one for sale.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Ah gotcha. I had a feeling they were older boards.

#9430 4 years ago

Help please....

I am installing the Winkie Target mod from Mezelmods and I dont know where the light attaches to. They say to go to Lermods for directions but Lermonds site doesnt have them currently. Just not sure where it screws into.

Thanks.

#9432 4 years ago
Quoted from billycrna:

This was probably covered somewhere, but I can't seem to find the topic. I have a RRWOZ will 2.0 boards and the latest code installed. My crystal ball frequently starts out fine and then goes black or shows a boot up screen. Is there a solution to this issue? Is it physical or just programming? Thank you!

I had this issue one time where when it booted, it showed all this coding type stuff. I never saw it again. Sorry that isnt very helpful but you arent alone..

#9436 4 years ago

Thanks guys. I was a dummy and mixing up my mods... I did find the install on the Mezel website.. Thanks for the quick help guys!!

#9438 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Also try to reseat the sd card, take it out blow on it, blow in the slot and put it back.

I never even knew there was an sd card in there. Good to know for the future!

#9441 4 years ago

Guys, having a weird issue with my monkey mod...

Everything was fine. I went and installed some cliffys, added the Mezelmod Winkie Target w/light and after I noticed that the monkey seems to be having a hard time coming down the rail. I thought maybe it needed some new lithium grease, so I wiped it down and added, same issue. It starts, then slows, speeds up, slows.. almost like something is getting in the way. I checked the cord and its not in the way...then back and forth with this issue. Sometimes it takes the ball up, other times it doesnt.

My game is pretty new, maybe 400 plays. Could this be a power issue? I am not seeing any issues anywhere else on the machine. Before this, the monkey worked about 99% perfect.

Any ideas??

#9444 4 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Did you bump the monkey sense switch lifting playfield or the like installing the stuff?
It is a small board, not a physical switch. It is behind the backboard where the monkey pics up ball.
Sounds like what I had earlier in year. I was fixing stuff and the pinstadium cables grabbed it and messed with the alignment of the switch/board I'm sending you to.

i know the switch you are talking about. I didnt think so but perhaps but isnt that screwed in?... Ill have to take a look. Thanks for the help...

1 week later
#9490 4 years ago

Also to note, dont go crazy with the grease. I just re-greased mine and I think from adding too much, it was causing it to gunk up. Took a little bit to wipe it down and work the thick stuff out.

#9493 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

That joint was replaced with clear vinyl tubing on WOZ's for many years.
LTG : )

I think he is saying that his does not have the clear vinyl tubing since his was made in 2014.

#9494 4 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Interesting that they made a number plaque for the standard edition. I didnt know they did that.

#9514 4 years ago

Im pretty sure mine, made in 2016, has the black piece as well..

1 week later
#9552 4 years ago

I have an issue once in a while where my ball gets stuck under the munchkin playfield. I cant see what it gets hung up on. A little rocking of the machine back and forth sets it free... Anyone have any ideas?

#9555 4 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Same here. I just nudge it out. It frustrates my 5 year old though as he’s not strong enough to nudge it out. Happens fairly frequently.

Quoted from drained:

Might have some debri or bad rubber under the PF? I have the rare occurance of this as well but a slight nudge gets it going again. Maybe it's time to remove the Munchkin PF and take look.

Yup, a quick nudge does it. I wasnt sure if anyone knew what exactly is making it get stuck.

I will probably take off the playfield at some point to take a look. I have a cliffy to install so timing is good.. whenever i have actual time to do it ha.

#9558 4 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Probably getting stuck where the ball is returned after going through the OZ lanes. The area below the OZ lanes doesn't have mylar but where it rejoins the orbit there is mylar. This results is a 'ball trap' when a ball plunged lightly enough doesn't have enough momentum to overcome the mylar ridge. I have this happen all the time and it is an annoyance for sure. I reach up and shake the machine up near where the ball is stuck to clear it. If you can get to the side of your machine near the back box and look it is fairly easy to see the ball just sitting there waiting for your nudge to get it rolling again.
I have seen a fix for this (probably in this thread) where mylar was applied below the OZ lanes area, effectively eliminating the lip. It looks like it would be difficult to do a nice job of this without one of those craft cutters. BTW if someone is willing to do make some mylar that fits this area, count me as your first customer.

Yup, thats exactly the area... annoying ha.

#9562 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Then roll a ball through slowly, or stop at various points to see where it actually stops. You may have to adjust lane guides or something.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : Adjust is a code word for bend the darn thing.

lol thanks LTG!

#9565 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

There is a rubber under it near the top.
If it slips up and out of its post notch it causes the ball hang.
You can reach it without tools.
It's just below the upper sling.
Just roll it back down.
You will see that it up hugging the top. It should be lower onto its notch

Thanks! I will take a look for this as well.

#9580 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You can de-magnetize balls by heating in an oven at 350-400 degrees for 45 mins.
Let them cool naturally.

Wow really? Thats pretty awesome to know then...

#9582 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The "curie temperature" to lose all magnetism is around 1060 degrees (cook on bbq for 25 mins over direct coals).
But magnetism drops off sharply at 212 degrees (boiling water for 15mins).
350-400 degrees yields good results for pinball.
Practically all magnetism is gone.

Great info! You have just made many people's day!

#9583 4 years ago

Im having a problem with my Winkie Target going down when it is supposed to. I can hear it clicking as the coil is firing but it doesnt drop. I feel like it happens on and off.

Any help is appreciated.

#9585 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Can you confirm the coil is actually firing? Perhaps try in coil test mode with the playfield up so you can see.
If so, then it is likely something mechanical. Check it over and see if anything is catching. Is the spring intact? Etc.

Yea its firing. I can hear it clicking when its trying to lower the target during game play. During test, I can hear it firing as well.

The spring is attached because it goes down just fine when playing and the ball hits it. Its only when the game tries to lower it with a coil that it doesnt go down as it should.

To be honest, im not sure when the target is supposed to go down on its own haha. Its not even a big issue.. I dont think.

#9587 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Ok. Next make sure it raises and goes down on its own in coil test mode. If it doesn’t go down in coil test mode, but the coil is definitely firing, then there is something wrong with the mechanical connection. I believe the coil triggers a little arm that pushes the drop target back causing it to fall, but I can’t look right now to make sure. You should be able to see the mechanism.

Yup, thats what happens. I havent had a chance to really look at it. Wasnt sure if anyone had this issue in the past.

Thanks for the help...

2 weeks later
#9628 4 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Regarding the crystal ball. There is a micro SD card in the pcb attached to the screen. Switch off. Reseat. Reboot. Should be good

I have this problem from time to time. Seems a power boot solves it but not sure why it keeps happening.

#9630 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A low power boot usually messes up the crystal ball display.
A second boot will generally fix it.
Seems to be wall power issues fot the most part.

Mine doesnt always do it on startup. Sometimes it does it after a bunch of plays. I would say more often than not, it happens during play and not at startup.

#9635 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That sounds like a loose cable or sd-card.
Could also be a flakey oled display.
Initially mine would go cortupt or display reversed images.
JJP sent me a new one under warranty.
Changing out the display fixed it.

Thanks. Perhaps I should reach out to JJP and see what they think.

#9637 4 years ago

Well, I reached out to JJP and this was their response:

"Hi - that is common behavior with the crystal ball monitor - sometimes it will go for an image that isn't there so it will display the code and sometimes you will get a pixelated image or what looks like an old school snowy black and white TV image for a few seconds. Perfectly normal (unfortunately). Thanks, Steve"

So it seems its very common but im surprised there isnt a fix. I feel like my machine will not fix itself but perhaps I haven't given it enough time...

1 week later
#9675 4 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Ohhhhh. Yellow brick road has wood apron as well - nice looking game there.
Question - my game came with factory applied Mylar over the center of the playfiled that is starting to lift At certain edges and has some slight bubbling in the witches hat. Anyone ever remove their Mylar? I have read the multiple threads and YouTube videos of removing playfield Mylar but all examples have been with Mylar that’s 30 years old.
If so, How did that go?
Last thing I want to do is lift a YBR insert or take some clear with it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Interesting.. im pretty sure mine does not have this mylar there. Ive used a heat gun to heat it up and pull it off. Just be careful of doing it over inserts..

#9679 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I'd do the freeze spray method before heat gun. Safer.

What do you use to freeze?

#9681 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

inverted cans of dust-off spray air.
Its works amazing. Simple and effective once you get the feel for it.
Zero damage to the playfield if its intact.
Basically you seperate the mylar from the glue.
Residual glue is easily removed with rapid prep adhesive remover in 2 minutes.

Thought it might be that with the upside down dust off stuff.

Thanks.

#9684 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Finding it without bitterant is the only hard part these days. DO NOT try this indoors or in a garage with compressed air that has bitterant. Voice of experience.

What exactly is bitterant?

#9686 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Chemical added to something to make it smell bad.
Probably to stop the huffers.
LTG : )

ahhh i see. Damn huffers! lol

#9689 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Like Lloyd said, it's an additive they put in the compressed air cans now (that's not legally required, even) as a misguided attempt to stop huffing. Problem is, the addicts don't really care, but now dusters leave residue (the additive) and if you spray a lot at once to do something like the freeze spray method indoors or in an enclosed area outside, it will get in your nose and mouth and you will have a bitter taste for DAYS. It's terrible. About 80% of the compressed air out there has it now, by my estimation (at least around here).

Very interesting.. And I agree, people wanting to huff stuff arent going to be deterred by that most likely.

#9705 4 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Hello,
Would any fine upstanding owners of WOZ be willing to give me a brief list of differences between an older original run WOZ and a new/newer version please?
Considering a WOZ and need to understand the age differences; motherboard, lights (i know to look for 2.0 lights), cabinet, playfield, features, issues? etc. Pros/cons.
Thank you in advance.

Most of the versions are the same but with different colored rails, legs, wireforms... The LE comes with a wooden apron and the ruby red comes with additional toys inside (tornado, Toto figure, probably others I am forgetting). The toppers are different as well. The Yellow Brick Road does not have the flying monkey if ive read correctly.

All games will play the same so that is good.

There might be some more I am missing so maybe some others can chime in.

#9711 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Automated "green" edition is out there, so sort of a model
Cast castle walls came from backalley on the RR and go all around, others just get the molded plastic in the back

I have one of those Green Editions from Automated...

#9713 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is it as I described? I think I've only seen one or two pics, not sure pics are still on their site. So just like ECLE without ECLE topper and apron? But 2.0 lights, right?

Yes thats right. Comes with the standard topper and no wooden apron. Does have the 2.0 lights. Everything else is the same as the LE....

#9714 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is it as I described? I think I've only seen one or two pics, not sure pics are still on their site. So just like ECLE without ECLE topper and apron? But 2.0 lights, right?

Also to mention, it is not direct print on the cabinet. They are decals...

#9716 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Decals or radcals (thicker plastic)? My RR has radcals on it but I wasn't sure if there were 2 or 3 cabinet finishes. I know there are at least 2 cabinet types (pre YBR and YBR). I think I've only seen direct print and radcal.

Pretty sure they are decals but i have no experience with radcals...

#9718 4 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

My RR has decals

I thought the RR had decals as well..

#9722 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Yep, regular decals on the RR unless you upgraded to Radcals after it was an option. Just an FYI for anyone looking at used RRs they did not originally include Invisiglass, Shaker and Printed manual with the RR. These were added when the price was increased to $9500 so don't assume every used RR out there has those items.

Thats interesting and good to know!

#9724 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I was offered the RR version very early on. It didnt have the toys, those were added for the 75th anniversary edition.
We decided to stay with the ECLEWOZ.
It had the direct print cab, invisiglass and knocker along with the wooden apron and slightly different topper.
The playfields are all exactly the same, so the game is exactly the same on all versions.
They only change cosmetically.
Version 2.0 boards were developed for the Hobbit and added to WOZ a couple years into production on for stability.
Quite a few WOZ games had board failures, but not all, (mine is running perfectly with the original 7.5v system all these years with thousands of plays).
The 2.0 system is a bit dimmer, and the game is pretty dark as it is. Im not sold on it until they work out a solution. Interestingly the 2.0 system is vibrant and bright in the Hobbit.
The only recent change is the Yellow Brick Road version with the missing monkey mech and non functional single door on the castle playfield.
Although the new swivel monitor bracket and moving the computer to the head is really nice.

Interesting that the same boards are bright on Hobbit.. I know there is a brightness setting for the game, but im not sure off hand what the default is or if its a good idea to crank that up??

On mine (2.0 boards), the inserts seem fine, its the GI that is dim... Im not sure I want to max out the insert brightness to boost GI. I would imagine that boosting brightness only leads to a quicker failing led down the road.

#9726 4 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Swivel monitor bracket - I have not yet had the need to remove the monitor in my ECLE but was wondering if there was a quick release that I was missing or is it attached with hardware and needs to be dismantled to get behind it?

It doesnt just pull out? its locked? Ive never tried..

#9736 4 years ago

Hey guys,

I noticed last night that my white rubber ring by the OZ lanes is getting cut by the slingshot kicker. Need to buy a new one. Suggestions?

Also, the part number from JJP looks to say 25-2003-32-0 but it calls it a "Black rubber ring - 2 inches". Is that correct, 2 inches?

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