I just reset all my hi-scores on my game.

The early code allowed for millions of points due to a bug. This was cool but kinda scammy, as you would have had to be there to get those high marks.

So after backing up all my settings and installing the version 6 code, and playing the game a lot, I determined that its not the same game at all any more! However it's so much better and FUN!

So my earlier scores were not relevant at all

I'm really enjoying putting my initials in again on this new game! Also my wife who has been getting better and better over the last 2 years is now on the board and kicking my a$$

Has anyone else felt this way or done this?

I'm beginning to think that I should reset the high scores each time there is a major change in the code as it would be a very different game.

6.06 is the current version I think.

This might help (copied from #937 6 months ago this thread):

First, download the software by going to the link below
http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/game-specific-downloads/wizard-of-oz-downloads/
Under the Full Game Install heading, Click on [Wizard Of Oz - Full Install ISO - 6.06]
The file is very large (about 4gB) and should take about 20min to download.
I recommend using IE (Internet Explorer) browser as I've had problems with Google Chrome not doing a complete down load.
When the download is complete you should make sure it downloaded okay by verifying the checksum.
To do this, you can run the utility listed below:
http://www.winmd5.com/
The output from the utility should match the following:
9ba0111a76e8b03af0792a8928601d66
(this is the code you get when you click on [MD5 CHECKSUM] on the JJP download site)
This is the most time consuming part of the process and will get you half way there.

Also note that updating the software usually isn't this complicated. Normally the updates are small (delta), require very little time to download and only have a couple of steps after. However, since this is a major update, a full install is required.

Make sure you back up your settings first unless you want to set it up all over again.

Use the Unetbootin utility for your mac on the JJP website down lower on the page that you got the code update from and make a bootable usb drive.

Stick the usb drive into the black USB cable end next to the left of the coin box and re-boot the game.
It will do everything by itself pretty much on start-up.

It can be a little scary as it pauses once in awhile a couple times but be patient it will finish when its done.

Take the USB drive out of the machine when its done to keep it from installing the OS everytime you start the machine.

I think the instructions are on the JJP site somewhere, they are also in the manual near the end pages E-6 to E-7

open up the version 3 manual from the jjp site it has pretty clear instructions on how to use the Unetbootin program.

Also its important to check your checksum! This is a big file and lots of stuff can happen to it while your getting it.
I know its a hassel but Ive had bad files piss me off too many times.

I finally installed the pinballbulbs Woz lighting kit.

WOW what a difference! The lighting is not too much, and not too little, the colors are perfect.

I did "tape over" the light strip in the back over the ramps (about 6 leds) due to reflection on the ramp.

The kit sent to me was different than the instructions, more refined, less wire.

It was a painless install that should have taken about an hour to complete, but as others have stated, I took my time on it.

I changed a bunch of rubber, original rubber from 2 years ago, (rubber kits from marco spec are missing tons of rubber!)and did a general cleaning while I had it open.
Fortunately I have tons of rubber, I just am lazy and like kits (never from marco again!).

I dont have to use my overhead lighting any more and can see everything properly.

Does anyone make a rubber kit that has all the rubber in it? And the rubber is fresh?

JJP should have it on their parts site, but does not

That is exactly what I ordered.

If re-seating the cable (both ends) and SD card. Loosen the cable from the wire looms and ties to see if its a crimped, bent or broken wire.
If that doesnt do anything, get a replacement ball assembly.

I had similar issues after about a month of play, including weird reversed images in the ball.

The replacement ball fixed everything and has not even flickered with 1500 plays on it.

Some kind of topper would be very cool.

That would be way cool or a projector for the wall behind.

click yes to all, its ok, just a little bug in the way it was packed

I can only go by my experience on this amazing game, others are welcome chime in with their adjustments.

The game is very fast for the 1st 50 games. It will settle down after that and adjustments are more meaningful.
I'm waxing/cleaning every 150 plays or so with wizards mist and shine (JJP uses it on the playfields before shipping), Novus 1 on the ramps and plastics, for now and have 1200 plays. I just recently waxed using PS21 since 1000 grand wax is hard to get for now.

I have my pitch at 6.5 measured from several places around the PF, and took an average.
I upped the lower flipper power by 2 or 3. If you are getting air balls off glinda, either put dead foam behind the target or go down a notch at a time until it stops.
On a clean hit to the ramp, from a cradled position, from either flipper, the ball should easily go up the ramp then slow down a bit after it makes it to the top.

Also make sure the flipper rubber is more towards the top of the flipper bat, this will stop air balls off the flipper on all of them.
I'm using the STC standard flipper rubber still on this game. I might put on the super bands, we'll see how they play.

The castle PF flipper should not be too agressive, it makes it hard to manage the door bounces and loops.
I settled about the default plus one maybe.

I upped the Dorothy flipper a couple and the munchkin flipper 1 or 2. I like the munchkin flipper to do 2 loops on a perfect hit, more than that is unnecessary.

The VUK's needed to be adjusted up a couple notches. Especially the crystal ball one, If the ball bounces out of the wire-form then you go down a bit.

The cross-over wire-form on my game needed tweaking to keep the ball on track (the ball would fall off in a high speed hit). It had a small bend in it that I removed. I also twisted it a tiny bit so that the upper wire was more level and perhaps slightly lower than the lower wire (used a crescent wrench with a towel around the wires to prevent scratching for twisting/bending and some firm hand bending).

Watch the game a bit and see if one of the outlanes favors another and check the left to right level. Or roll a ball down the center and see if it goes fairly straight (hard to do with the roll overs in the way).

I'm sure there is more, this is just off the top of my head.

Its not that neccessary to close the left outlane, it helps a bit but not as much as you might think.
Just increase the ball save time to at least 20 seconds for family, or max it out.

But if you must, the metal guide has adjustment, its under the plastic.
You have to remove the crystal ball and VUK wire-form to remove the long plastic to get to the ball guide. It's easy and fairly straight foreward.

One of the problems with this, is that the ball guide will stick out a little and the plastic wont cover it. this wont affect game play but looks unfinished, my wife said it was ugly and stupid.....So I had to mod it.

I, like others cut a slot in the ball guide with a dremel to allow for the rubber, or just shortened the metal by cutting off 1/4" and filed/smoothed it up before reassembly. Doing this wont affect game play either. Just make sure its nice and smooth so you dont cut the rubber when a ball hits it.

I broke my original one, they sent me another one. I'm sure you can get a free replacement if you ask.

I have 1000 games on my "replacement" and it doesnt even look worn. Maybe I'm just lucky, or got one from a good flexible batch that wasnt too brittle.

Also maybe check for any loose or partially loose connectors or cables under the PF. They should all be snug, including the cables gong to the computer (big silver box).

Adjust the setting that allows you to turn off the pops when both flippers are pushed is a lot of fun and makes the pops more of a strategy than an annoyance.

Sounds like the door switch is misaligned or the spring or door stops need adjusting. Sadly these adjustments are difficult without removing the castle playfield.

Castle playfield removal isnt that hard but it does take about 15 mins and the right tools. The manual has exact instructions on how to do it.
Read the manual several times before starting as it makes total sense, its very good.

At 2500 plays and about 2 years of time:

Replaced all the easy to reach rubber
Replaced the balls for the 2nd time
Buffed out the munchkin ramp
Cleaned and polished the easy to remove plastics
Vacuumed out the lower cabinet, blew out the dust in the computer with canned air.
Brushed off the PF wiring and boards with a horse hair upholstery brush.
Touched up the scrapes on the inner sidewalls with a sharpie and finger rubs.
Waxed the PF, ramps and outer cab (mine is screen printed).

Everything looks like new still, although the plastic over the winkie tunnel is taking a beating and will have to be replaced in another 1000 plays or so, but its a pain to get to.

I think its a standard practice to "touch-up" anything black for a temporary fix with a sharpie marker, just dont over do it.

You can rub it in a little while its wet and rub off any excess with a paper towel or cloth dampened with a little sparkle glass cleaner.
Finish it with a little novus one or any thin wax (furniture polish) and your good to go!

Of course itll all wash off but its ok for a lazy "working repair".

If you have a lot of side scrapes, put the felt strips on the edges of the PF, fill and sand deep gouges then spray the sides with semi gloss or satin Krylon.

But you have to remove the PF and its a messy job due to over spray.

I think the sharpie will get me through until I do a restoration.

You can backup all of your settings to a USB flash drive before any update or total ISO load. The histories seem intact for each update or reinstall that ive done, but I always back up my settings.

I use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Woodworking-Collars-Positioner-Locator-Durable/dp/B0185KC9F0/ref=sr_1_1

New Hi score for me with version 6 code.
3 balls outlanes on easiest

20160702_215004_(resized).jpg

Glass was on, outlanes on easiest, My wife gets more out of the game that way. Even the castle PF outlane on easiest.

I had a score of 4.5 mil with earlier code, but the bug in the code gave incorrect scores so I reset all my scores when I upgraded to ver. 6

It was a great epic game. I battled the witch twice but didnt melt her this time, and nowhere close to SOTR

Variations in power affect game play a lot.
I have 4 games on one 20 amp breaker. I have them all set so that they play pretty good when all are turned on at the same time.

If I fire up only one game, like the WOZ or TH they play way too strong and fast.
Other than screw up all my settings, I just turn on all the games and the problem is solved.

Also sometime all the games play super fast and strong, when running at the same time.
This has to do with the available current on my street at any given time.
I have a 200 amp line to my house but I think once in awhile its less than that.

Make sure its pure canauba.
Must be paste not a liquid.

I use P21S its very good, leaves no white residue.

Should be like beewax and melt like butter, but leave no white residue.

See if you can get some of this, its also hard to beat, from maybe a marine supplier:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JK2D06/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2

In a pinch maybe the mothers gold paste...not the best but it works, leaves white residue but less than others.

I got a gallon of the wizards mist and shine off amazon (o'reilly is supposed to carry it here but wont), It works really good for everything. Its like a heavier novus 1. It wears off after a few games, but is really good for a quick touch-up.

After I started using the P21S, I havent looked at anything else. It puts down the thinnest layer of wax and I love the lack of white dust and that it leaves an incredible shine that lasts.

I bought both, the blue is a beeswax blend. It goes on much easier and is cheaper, get the combo pak and get the free applicators. It seems to hold up as well as the silver but I probably wax it too often anyway.

The silver is pure carnauba, more expensive, a better more durable finish. Much better suited for pinball use.

So they are both great with the silver being more durable, better for routed games.

You definitely need the mylar between the trees and the state fair balloon. Wax before putting on mylar or the mylar may pull up paint when it needs to be changed (yes the mylar will need to be changed at some time in the future). Also in front of the winkie drop target you get a lot of bounce.

The free kit JJP hands out is pretty good.

P21S leaves no white residue or dust.

Clearcoat plays better IMHO....
The poly protectors play differently, slower? Definitely different.
I want my games to play a certain way and am willing to pay for it. But everyone is different...Its pinball....

I also think the call-outs are pretty helpful during the game.
Unlike say the Theatre of Magic where the lady always gives you bad info because she wants another quarter....

Thats the right stuff, I really like it.

The game is light years ahead of early code. Quite amazing actually.

Start aiming for it during multiball works for me.

What is a replacement/subsitution part?
Does JJP have new boards with current parts in case of failures?

Only truck it from the side that says "TRUCK THIS SIDE ONLY".

The box is very big, I always have to un-box in order to get them into my front door at 36".

Did you try a complete power fail (cold re-start) on the game?
Unplug from the wall, turn on the game, turn off the game, re-plug into the wall, turn on the game?
Looks like the video is not auto centering the image under the OS control, could be a corrupt driver.
Maybe save all your settings and re-install a complete 6.06 full game install, then see if it fixes it.

I switched to urethane superbands but took them off (they seemed to feel deader than fresh latex) and now
Im using red Titan bands in the flippers a green one on the much PF and an orange one on the castle pf.

They remind me of what fresh rubber used to feel like (somewhat)....today's rubber feels a little dead.

I just finished a complete shop job on my WOZ, removed both mini pf's, the ramps, trees etc. replaced all rubber with new.
I used some new STC rubber and some of my older STC rubber from my stash...my older stash of rubber bounces better than the new rubber I just got. Also dont bother getting a rubber kit for the WOZ from marco, its missing half of the rubber (what a rip off).

Better off using the rubber list in the manual and ordering it from another source (maybe terry at pinball life).

Waxed 2 times with P21S (just to make sure I didnt miss any areas...).
I used all black rubber except on the flippers.

The game plays absolutely like brand new!
However on the next shop job Im going to switch to white rubber. The game will play better, I should have used white the last time on this game.

Contact Lloyd and or get a repair ticket asap from jjp support.
check all connectors etc...

Chck that the mylar isnt lifting or rolling up if its still totally stuck down undamaged in any way,
Your PF angle is too low, get a cell phone level app and make sure the pitch is at 6.5 to 7 degrees.
I have mine at just over 6.5 and I cant even set a ball by hand on the edge of the mylar and get it to stay.
On a couple other pins that had this problem I buffed the mylar thinner with novus 3 then 2 then 1 with a mini power buffer from treasue cove.

At less than 5 degrees the mylar on the castle PF under the vuk will stick the ball also.

One other thing to try is to carefully rub/roll the edge down with a rubber or wooden wall paper seam roller if you have the room for the tool.
Also sometimes just waxing the area helps. I use P21S pure canauba but any pure canauba will do. Just dont use liquid wax or weird blended stuff.

Either way the edge will wear down in time as that area gets constant use, I wouldnt worry about it to much.

ECLEWOZ comes with external leg brackets as well as the internal ones.
The legs ride about 1/16" of the surface of the cabinet.
No other protection is needed unless its for cosmetic reasons.

Sometimes the static is from a loose cable on the crystal ball side or even a loose/dirty SD card in the ball.

The angle of the mini PF needs adjustment. Check the mounting screws for tightness or obstrutions, especially if you have removed it to install cliffy protector.
You can also add a washer to the rainbow side stand-offs to angle it better towards the hole.

Also check your left to right (horizontal?) main playfield level.

Congrats on killing the witch!
You might check your power at the outlet for low current/power if the game is starting anemically.
Or go thru and check all the connections on the PC and GI/LED strings.

Since few people have dedicated power, we are all subject to the highs and lows of "street power". Your power can vary 20 volts and can lose 10 amps every few hours depending on the usage on your street or section of the grid.

This is why the problem comes and goes.
Try a dedicated outlet with nothing but pins on it, and it should be a 20 amp breaker if you have a few pins on it (4 or 6), with 20 amp wire.

You are correct.
If the house spin is way off the plastic post that triggers the door wont line up.
It takes quite a few tests and in game tests to get it to work correctly.
With patience and a little time you will get it to work correctly.
Mine runs well enough and the door drops all the way 90% of the time and drops 3/4 the other 10%. I call it good enough.
It took about 10 separate adjustment sessions to get it to work right as I had to learn as I went along.

If you dont want it to look like crap you have to remove the ball guide and notch out the metal a bit with a dremel or hack saw to allow for the rubber from the post to pass through it.
A lot of us have notched the ball guide. including me.
This way the guide can go back into place and the plastic covers it nicely.

See above...^^^^^^^^^

I had it that way for over a year. The light shining wasnt a problem, there wasnt any problem at all, it just looked unfinished.
But after I did a thorough cleaning one day, I decided to notch the metal. It only took 5 mins and Im much happier with the result.

Early games were missing the mylar in the haunted forest and the TNPTH state fair balloon area. Fortunately JJP offers for free a sheet of pre-cut mylars for all the missing areas for those games that didnt have it.

Congrats on the new game!
Its going to be EPIC!

There is a switch in the little circuit board on the coin door near the top upper left.
You can barely see it from the edge, use a flashlight.

make sure the headphone is plugged in very firmly. especially the last 1/16"

In my opinion, the pinnovators external volume control is a must have!
I added it to my WOZ and TH.
Super easy to install and has a factory look to it.
JJP should have it as an option when ordering the game, thats how good it is.

get a couple of these leaf adjustment tools:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518

still you have to fiddle with the switches to get them just right.
but with a tool its way easier.

the rollovers will break in over time and soften down.
raise the PF angle a little and push up the flipper power a little until you no longer get as many low inertia shots.

if you enabled the inside switch, then push the game speaker mute button.
its the lowest button in the headset volume control area on the outside of the coin door.

Does the plunger hit the ball squarely in the center of the ball?

Dimples are absolutely normal.
Soon enough after a few thousand plays the whole surface will dimple over and appear flat again with a very slight orange peel effect.

So, the more you play it the sooner the dimples will go away.
Keep waxing the PF every 500 plays or so with pure Canauba, and the surface will be smooth for years.

I installed it and really like it.
My wife loves the slightly purple LEDs, they do indeed allow you to see more contrast in the PF. You can see so much more detail.
I moved the spots off the slings to what I thought were better locations for me.
I also replaced the silver shrouded spots for black ones (the same ones that are used in the game), marco has them.
It makes the game easier to spot the ball and our scores went up.
I taped over the LEDs under the backbox to eliminate the glare on the ramp, Worked perfectly.

My shooter rod was getting slightly bent from raising and lowering the PF. This made for poor shots.
Also the shooter rod tip if worn or crooked also makes for a weak plunge.
I changed the rod tip to a different one with a shorter bump at the end and this seems to have corrected this behavior as well as bending the rod back to being straight.

The PF can shift a little to the left or right, making the shooter off center.
On a couple of other games (TAF) I had to install a sheetmetal screw in the support bracket slot to keep it where I wanted it.
And as always the shooter rod must hit exactly in the center of the ball for it to launch correctly.

The kit comes with some white LEDs, we looked at it with the white, but settled on the purple it looked way better.

On my early ECLEWOZ The slippers were applied with a very agressive double sided tape. The tape failed after about 300 plays and they fell off one by one.
Without even removing the tape I was told by Lloyd to re-glue the slippers on with gel type CA glue.
They are rock solid after 2800 plays.

Maybe "machine-gunning"? EOS switch broken, or a wire is cracked/loose on it (intermittent failure), or needs adjustment.

I have had my WOZ for over 2 years and play it often. Mostly after my TH kicks my a$$ and I need to cool down....(with an adult beverage also...)

Your welcome!
If the spade connector is sorta loose, just squeeze it very slightly with pliers to "tighten it" a little.
Flippers are very active and spade connectors will loosen up over time.
Even soldered on connections vibrate off or the wires break over time...welcome to pinball!

Post a picture of it maybe in the dark.
See if it matches other games.

Put a couple washers under the bracket. Raising the character will solve this problem.
There are a lot of factors involved when launching the ball. Sometimes its completely airborne, other times it hits the built in randomiser.

Other times its so erratic it wont go all the way up.

Its pinball.....

The decals to cover those areas are available, just call and ask for a set.
They are a pretty good match also.

The repair kit comes with the decals and mylars to cover them.

Some of the rubber is very easy to replace.
Others require removing assembles. Be patient and take your time.

Use new tools: Klein long magnetic nut drivers and screw drivers are worth every penny.
Get a small magnetic bowl to put small parts in and stick it to the lock-down bar receiver.
Get a small flexible magnetic retrieval tool to save hours of work getting dropped screws or washers.
Place a terrycloth shop rag or towel on the playfield area you are working on in case of a dropped tool or small part.
Be methodical. Work in sections. There is no quick way to do this.
Clean and wax uncovered areas when you get to them, your playfield will thank you later.

Take pictures and note the size of the rubber you removed, its molded into each ring. Use the exact replacement size when replacing.
If in doubt refer to the manual.

Without a thorough examination of your broken part, its impossible to say what went wrong.
From a warranty point of view, if replacing the assembly solved the problem, then everything worked out and all is good in the world.
I imagine that JJP has listed this occurrence and will have more info on this down the road if it ever comes up again.
JJP isnt too concerned as they have agreed to fix anything that goes wrong during the warranty period.
With that in mind, enjoy your game and let JJP fret over it, thats what warranties are for.

Apply a little self adhesive felt to the lock-down bar where it rubs the powdercoat.
Powdercoated side-rails are relatively new to pinball and all of them need a little padding there.
I see wear there periodically.

The lock-down bar insulation is just regular foam weatherstrip that you get at Lowes or Home Depot.

If the lock-down bar is still too loose after adjusting the brass screws, you might have to raise or lower the inside lock-down bar receiver.

Its not too bad, and has 3 or 4 wood screws holding it on from the inside. Loosening the screws will allow for a small adjustment, filling the screw holes with dowels, skewers or toothpicks and relocating the bar 1/8" or so higher is more work but can give perfect results.

Personally I raised my lock-down bar receiver 1/8" so that when the lock-down bar is clamped down it rests 1/16" above the siderails and doesnt touch them at all. I filled the 1/16" gap above the siderails with self stick felt applied to the underside of the lock-down bar.

An assortment of self stick felt is available at Wal-Mart, I chose the black 1/16" thick.

Mine clamps down tightly, I have to press down on the center of the lock-down bar to get the release handle to move.
It tightly fits against the siderails with self-stick felt protecting them.
This was achieved from several adjustments to the brass screws and a final adjustment of the lock-down receiver.
It doesnt budge during game play.

My TH however is still loose a little bit, I havent put the time into it yet. But ultimately it will be as snug as my WOZ.

Of all the cliffy protectors the munchkin edge protector is the best.
I bought the complete set but have only installed this edge protector.
After 2500 plays it really shows huge amounts of chipping and wear without the protector. I have seen 1" chips in the surface near the edge without the steel edge.

Whats needed now is a good plastic protector for over the winkie drop area.
I have had to replace mine due to cracking from ball strikes.

Check that the wires are still plugged onto the coil that fires the drop target.

Check that the attachment screws that hold the switch on, are still there and snug but not super tight. Overtightening the screws will cause the internal mechanism of the little switch to bind.

Manually actuate the drop target and listen for the click of the switch, up and down. Or manually actuate the switch and listen for its click sound to get a feel for it.

A properly adjusted switch will click just before the metal plunger hits the stop and doesnt bend the arm of the switch to much.
Adjust the stop as neccessary.

If the screws have fallen out they are 2/56 screws by about 5/8" I think.

If the screws are missing, check inside the cabinet with a magnet and you will find them.
Also look for anything else that might be loose under the playfield and tighten as neccessary.

Any loose wood screws you find should be backed out and re-inserted with titebond glue on the threads.
Any loose machine screws should be glued in with blue loctite, NOT RED.

The switch should have 2 screws in it. It will work with only one but it will rotate once in awhile and lose contact with the plastic actuator on the drop target itself.
The whole switch assembly is made so that you can move the switch a little to get it to work just right.

get screws here:

https://www.fmwfasteners.com/products/2-56-x-5-8-phillips-pan-machine-screw-18-8-ss?gclid=CICQyq-hgdACFQuraQodMqoE5g

Check the length in the manual and maybe get a couple sizes for ramp witches and whatever....
Also a good source for regular #8 x 1/2" or 5/8" slotted hex sheet metal screws and what ever you might need in stainless steel.

I dont think they have the unslotted screws for the factory look.

Some quiet 80mm fans I use once in awhile:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W04PJ9641&cm_re=quiet_80mm_fan-_-35-186-074-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V3803646&cm_re=quiet_80mm_fan-_-9SIA85V3803646-_-Product

Please reach out to the 30 or more Pinsiders within the Pensacola area if you are still there.
Otherwise check the community map and there will always be someone near by who would love to assist a fellow hobbyist.

We all remember our first time working on a game, it really helps to have someone to help initially.
Dont worry, dont be shy.

A picture of the loose cable would be very helpful.

Bad deal for you.
Its much easier to find a lower cost WOZ that it is to find a TZ in really good shape.

I have had 2 TZ , and after awhile sold them off for a very good profit because I didnt play the TZ any more.
Right now Im looking for a TZ that I can restore but they are difficult to get now. I love to restore games as much as playing them.
I miss my TZ for some reason even though I dont play it very often.

Post some pics when you get it! WOZ is amazing.

It appears to be working properly.
The crystal ball is supposed to give you hints as to what you might do to start a mode ot to continue progress towards a mode.
It does not run continuously.

The current builds are pretty bulletproof, for a pinball machine.

JJP has never asked me to send them anything that I paid for.
If you bought a second set of replacement boards with cash, you would never have needed to send them anything at all.
Warranty is another matter altogether.

That would be like saying, send me another complete game and ill pay cash for it so that I would have a spare game. And they would require you to send them the first one. Now you have paid twice for a single game.
They wouldnt do that.

That sounds about right.

Always play if first, then adjust. There are differences and adjustments that vary a bit on the assembly line.

I have the right flipper set +1 from the left flipper.
No bounces, no chatters.
Playfield pitch is at 6.7

I increased the pitch a tiny bit from factory, if the pitch is too high the balls can fly off the cross-over wireform.
Mostly the pitch increase was to compensate for dirtiness of the PF between waxings.

If you wax the ramp, balls rarely miss.
I use the recommended mist n shine. Its similar to novus 1, but more wax content.

I changed out all the rubber at 2500 plays with a factory black kit (STC rubber).
Im using red silicone flipper rubbers from Titan. I used to use urethane flipper rubber from pinball life but they hit too hard.
Black rubber on the flippers or the red silicone play the best for me and my crowd.

At 3200 plays the game looks like new with wax every 500 plays. The only wear is on the cliffy on the munchkin PF, and the plastic above the winkie guard. It gets beat up pretty bad, Im going to replace any cracked plastics at 5000 plays.

I have complete faith that JJP will take care of you.

You must know that the home market is new to the pinball industry.

Im actually shocked that a commercial equipment vendor would even attempt direct sales to homes.
It is quite an undertaking and JJP has done wonders comparatively. They deserve much acclaim.

Remember that buying from a distributor is often the best, as commercial equipment always has to be setup and tweaked on site due to many factors specific to the location. Power supply problems from the wall current comes to mind, plus any known tweaks and adjustments or small parts failures. This is common.

This equipment was meant to be abused on location and most operators would not be concerned about cabinet artwork as it wouldnt be seen in a line-up and would probably have initials carved in it the first week.

So hang in there, it will all work out with a little patience.

Some people are having rainbow light card individual led failures.
I would suggest getting a new one and possibly sending your old one in for credit or slight discount perhaps.

The led driver chip, A6281 3-Channel Constant Current LED Driver with Programmable PWM Control,
has been discontinued from the manufacturer, Allegro. Its unknown yet whether or not a suitable replacement can be fitted.
All is not lost though as there are thousands of Chinese made $2 LED driver boards available, to steal the chip from if necessary for awhile.

Herg provided a link to some here

http://macetech.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1

The part number is

a6281

Its a great all in 1 package, Im surprised they discontinued it, unless people just needed more channels.

http://hackaday.com/2009/06/29/parts-shiftbrite-rgb-led-module-a6281/

This only affects repairing of old/used boards.

There are a lot of ways to drive an LED.

If JJP cant get the older parts they will redesign or redevelop a new replacement board around a different driver chip if necessary.

This will not affect the end user, other than possibly higher costs to pay for different parts or development.

Companies continuously upgrade or alter circuit boards based upon durability concerns or parts availability, but as long as any new part works and fits correctly we will be fine.

My concerns as other have stated is the ability to inexpensively field repair a board, on location, becomes difficult if everything is modularized, proprietary or surface mounted. It becomes a lot more complicated than cutting off a transistor or diode or jumping a fuse.

This is especially worrisome if durability is in question. Does the repair tech have to carry thousands of dollars worth of replacement modules for all of the different technologies that are emerging? And then later repair said modules on a more sophisticated bench?

Maybe its just the cost of progress...

Its not rocket science to do board repairs. It just takes care and a feel for the temperatures.
Start by taking an old broken pc board that you will never use.
Carefully and professionally remove all of the components. Try and not destroy the board as they are fragile and susceptible to heat damage

Replace the parts you removed as professionally as possible.

Do this a few times and anyone can become a bench tech. It just takes a small time investment and some rudimentary tools.

A lot of us started this way, by experimentation with some guidance from someone with experience.

As with all things you absolutely get better with practice and a little patience.

I think this could be done, but I think you can just get all of the required parts from JJP if needed.

why is this?

I imagine the correct motor is available for the WOZ from JJP.

sounds like a switch adjustment may be needed, the game might not know that the ball has reached its destination.
Also maybe see how it works in the device tests menu.

check the threaded rod for bends, it might also need adjustment.
Check the flexible joint from the motor for issues, everything should be relatively inline.
It should not be binding in any way.
In some cases the rod (worm gear) has needed some silicone grease.
It should operate soothly and relatively quietly.
Its possible that it needs to be re-mounted and adjusted.

If you do adjust the mech keep track of the ball pick-up sensor as it will invariably also need adjustment if you move the worn gear,rod assembly.

All of these frustrating issues are what a lot us call, part of the fun!
Getting the game perfectly dialed-in and learning a specific game can be very rewarding if you are patient and of the peculiar "pinball mind-set".

I think most of us have had completely baffling mysteries within a pinball machine, but as you have noted it will all work out in time.

I am so completely grateful for the support from Lloyd and all of the extremely patient technicians at JJP, even well after the warranty is over. They have become the best in the business (IMHO).

Meanwhile try to enjoy the bumpy ride

Along that note, playing my TH has improved my WOZ game substantially.
My shots are more accutate and my timing during multiballs has improved.

Its absolutely doable and only takes about 10 mins.