Hi all. I'm seriously considering getting a Standard WOZ. I have a few questions.

In the US, what is the typical distributor price I should expect to pay for the standard version NIB delivered?

Are there any game play or significant feature differences between the Standard and some of the limited editions, or is it all very nice bling?

Finally, I need to free up some more funds and am looking at April of next year to purchase. Do you know if they will still be available NIB at that time?

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

Bump.

Thanks for the response. I didn't really want to start calling distributors yet because I'm several months away from making a purchase. I was just wondering what the ballpark distributor price for a standard was.

Thanks. Assuming no March surprises in my finances, I'm about 1-2 months away from joining this club. I can't wait!

Hi all. Just ordered a RR 75th. I'm very excited and can't wait until it arrives.

I have a couple of questions to prepare: First, how many balls does it take, and can I use the balls that come with the game, or are they like the Stern balls that you should throw out immediately?

Second, where is the best place to get the munchkinland edge cliffy protector? I didn't see them at pinballife. How easy is it to install? Drilling holes in a brand new game scares me.

Anyway, thanks! I'll post pics when it arrives.

Funny. I also have life insurance, but so far it hasn't been worth it. I do wonder what percentage of these things get chipped. You hear about the ones that do but not all of the ones that don't.

Thanks. For some reason, I didn't think he sold direct. I'll check it out.

Hi all. My new WoZ is coming tomorrow. Are there any adjustments that most people find they need to make that I should be on the look out for? Things like sling and flipper power settings and the like?

Ok, thanks all. Much appreciated.

Thanks again for the replies. WoZ came today. I've been spending almost all afternoon playing. Loving it! Here are the pictures:

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So, just a few questions:

1. When the winged monkey captures Dorthy, he gets caught by the door on the way up. He always powers through and successfully deposits Dorthy in the castle. But, is there some way to adjust the door to move it slightly forward, or adjust the monkey to move it slightly back. I don't want him to keep getting scraped by the door.

2. The code that came with it is 4.11. I'm thinking about playing on it for a while to get a feel for the game and then updating. Any downside to doing this other than not having the best code? For example, are there major bugs?

3. My plunger seems stiff. It is hard to control the softness of the plunge. Is this normal, or should I adjust somehow?

4. Occasionally, the right sling seems to double fire. I need to check the gap. It could just be slightly too close.

5. Sometimes, right at the start of a game, before I plunge, I'm in witch hurry up mode. That seems wrong. Is it?

Well there is something wrong with my witch switch. It is not a normal leaf switch. It looks almost like a push button switch on both sides. When the switch is hit, it doesn't always turn off. I can see this in switch test mode where they are both green. If I start a game with both switches hit, I get the witch hurry up right away.

Can anyone tell me how those dual switches are supposed to work? Maybe it is a bad switch?

So, I figured out that when I press the switch, it registers. Then, I let it go, and it doesn't press back hard enough against the switch to turn it off. So, it may be both. Can you tell me what you mean by loosening, adjusting and retighting? It looks pretty tight under there, and I'm not entirely sure how this one works or what specifically to adjust. Thanks.

You guys rock! That was the exact problem and fix. Thanks for the clear explanation and posting of pictures. It really helped and things are working again. I was hoping there would be an easy adjustment, but I kept looking at the thing and couldn't figure out what it was. You saved me a lot of frustration. Thanks!

Well . . . now my ruby slipper fell off the flipper bat. I assume this is fixed with just a couple drops of super glue, is that right?

I'm guessing the travel sprites loosened that switch and set it back.

It's so interesting to play a new pin and think that something may be wrong but not be completely sure. As I was playing, I kept noticing a scratchy white noise sound that repeatedly went off. I was wondering if a speaker was malfunctioning. It got to the point that I couldn't stand playing because that was all I could hear. Then, it occurred to me that it almost sounded like straw rustling and that it might be the scarecrow. But, as I watched the game, I didn't hit that rollover enough to make it sound so often. Finally, I took the glass off, and started hitting the ball around on the switches. I noticed that all of my SCARECROW letters were lit without once hitting the rollover. Looked under the playfield and discovered that the leaf switch was gapped so close it was basically touching. Easy fix, but because I wasn't familiar enough with the game, it took a while to figure out what that awful sound was.

So, here's my next question: a hard shot to the crystal ball spinner from the right flipper causes the ball to go through the spinner and sometimes bounce back out (again through the spinner) without going to the VUK. I haven't gotten a good look at where it is being rejected. Is this a common problem, and is there a tweak to fix it? (I should note that soft shots and shots from the left flipper while cradling two balls both work ok.)

Wow, that's a tough shot with a lot of risk to have it be rejected so often when you seemingly nailed it. Any tips for when and how to get the crystal ball shot?

Congrats! I'm loving mine.

I did have a fair number of tweaks and issues out of the box. It worked, just had some loose bolts and switches that needed to be adjusted. It was hard to figure out some of the issues since I had only played on location before and wasn't entirely sure what was normal behavior. My advice: after you play those first 3-4 mandatory games and want to take a rest, go into switch test mode and make sure no switches are closed that shouldn't be. Tap around the playfield to see if any close by vibration such that you would have to adjust the gap. Etc. You'll also be rewarded with a beautiful switch matrix display which will have you wondering how you ever put up with the Stern DMD one.

Also, as I have been playing, I've noticed a few things. For example, soft hits on the castle targets don't register hits on my machine. I increased the castle flipper power, and that seems to have helped. The wonderful thing is that, unlike Stern games, almost everything is adjustable. Despite the few issues I've had, I'm really impressed with the technology that JJP developed. Enjoy!

My ceilings are too low in the basement to put my 75th anniversary topper on. I'm thinking about trying to mount it to the wall. Has anyone done that or anything else with the topper?

I bought the munchkinland cliffy but no others. Now, I just have to build up the courage to install it. . . .

Yeah, the drilling into my brand new machine part is the part that really scares me.

Congrats!

Some answers (I don't have all -- new owner myself): you can individually control the strength to every coil. So, increase the state fair balloon a bit. I also increased the flipper on the castle play field to register more hits on the targets. As for the glass, I find that if I gently press the top of the glass down by the black clasp while I slide it in that extra half inch, it goes in without a problem. I have a hum from the speakers when the LEDs shine bright in attract mode. I'm assuming it is normal.

So, is there an already existing connector that these plug into, or is it more complicated than that to set them up? I'm not sure what it means that they hook up to existing spots.

Forgive my electrical ignorance: does this mean cutting the wires and splicing two sets of wires off of it -- the ones for the existing spots and the ones for the new spots? I've never done this before.

So, does that mean no cutting of wires, just plugging?

I'm feeling blind because I can't seem to find that unused connector. Are you going to do that? If so, I might wait and copy off of you, especially if you take some good pictures (hint, hint).

Aren't there detailed instructions in the game manual? I seem to remember that, though I don't have the manual in front of me at the moment.

Just making sure, but did you remove the two pieces of packing foam at the back end of the playfield? The first time I took it out, I couldn't get it back in until I realized there was packing foam glued on back there.

Thinking about it, it probably makes the whole game really secure for shipment. I just think there should have been a note about it. It would have saved me a couple of minutes of frustration trying to push the playfield back in and wondering why it wasn't going.

I have a couple more questions:

1. How easy is it for you to collect on the HOADC shot? I keep thinking I hit it, but the ball keeps bouncing back without going in. I didn't expect to have such a hard time. I own a Star Trek Pro which has a similar under the upper flipper shot, and I can hit it relatively consistently. Looking at that shot and comparing it to WoZ, the two shots are different in the sense that in WoZ, the ball hits the wire ball guide at nearly a 90 degree angle, whereas in Star Trek, the angle of the area where the ball hits is much different, seemingly making it more conducive to falling back into the shooter lane. Anyway, do others have a hard time with this shot, and are there any tips?

2. My ruby slipper on the right flipper broke in half and fell off again. I put in a ticket request yesterday, and Lloyd responded today saying he would forward it to parts to take care of. Kudos for the great customer service! I never expected a response on a Sunday. Now that I have to take the flipper bat out, I'm thinking of putting super bands on. I don't have them on my other games, but I'm having a really difficult time getting the ball under control on WoZ. The flipper angle is a bit more shallow, I think. What is the consensus of super bands with this game? Also, what colors do you think would look good?

I'm sure this was my bad and that there was a note like that. I don't recall it specifically pointing to the foam in the back of the playfield, but I may have missed it. It was not visible from the game. Anyway, all is well.

Thanks, Chosen_S about the advice on super bands.

Can I bump up this question:

I'm really curious as to others experiences with this shot. Thanks!

Well, I'm glad its not just me. I've backhanded it with two balls on the right flipper, never with just one. Is that what you mean? During multiball?

That's really strange because I could never understand why people complained about the Away Team shot. It was challenging, but I made it a good percentage of the time. The HOADC shot is like 1 in 10 for me. I just lowered the flipper coil power a bit, so maybe that will help. How do you like the superbands on WOZ?

Yes, I get that too, but not 50% of the time; just once in a while. It baffled me as well. Perhaps the balls are slightly magnetized. I bought some of the pinball life ultraglossy ones but haven't swapped them out yet. Usually, a stiff slap on the side of the cabinet does the trick.

I'm not sure there is a lower magnet. At least I couldn't see one on mine. There is what appears to be a small rubber lip that would hold the ball and prevent it from falling onto the playfield. If the ball is not centered on the monkey, or if the monkey lets it go a split second too soon, I can see it falling. Isn't there a switch adjustment to make sure the monkey is fully retracted behind the castle doors, or am I making that up?

Your inability to capture the ball because of the monkey switch is likely preventing you from starting Rescue MB. Fix that problem, and you'll have more success. It is one of the harder modes to start for me, but I've done it a number of times. Made it to the witch battle a few times as well, but still haven't melted her. Really fun game! Still trying to figure out everything myself.

I believe you have to shoot for the blue shot which moves around. Hitting the flashing red shots causes the witch to shoot a fireball at you. Three fireballs and you are out. So you want to avoid those shots. At least, I believe that is right. . . .

Just had my best game since getting WOZ! 470,000 points (not as good as the rest of you, but hey I'm an average player). Finally got a jewel for starting Haunted multiball. I had no idea what I was doing during it. It probably didn't help that I also started ECMB and Crystal Ball weak flippers at the same time. Man, what a rush and a blast!

Nicoga, I wonder if the downstream LED boards are getting a bad signal. Since all of them are out, perhaps it is a bad connection on the first board in the chain. The manual can help you identify which one that is. Reseat the connectors. If that doesn't work, I would contact JJP Tech Support.

I just installed Titan translucent rings on my slingshots. Wow! They look fantastic! The light completely shines through which enhances the lighting effects for all the modes. Highly recommended.

I'm going to be doing the same thing this weekend. I want to install the Munchkinland playfield protector. Then, I want to wax. I've held off waxing for now because I didn't want the ball flying around like crazy -- which usually happens for the first 30+ games after waxing -- while that playfield was unprotected.

I don't take things apart to wax. I just get the areas that are accessible. I think this is most people's approach from what I have gathered, unless they are doing a full shop. One thing I have found useful, however, is to cut a bit off of a Swiffer pad and duct tape it to the end of a plastic or wooden rod, making a nice padded tip. I spray the end with Novus 1 and then gently run it up and down hard to reach areas and lanes, like the opening to orbits. It doesn't go all the way, but you can get a bit more cleaning done that way.

I just took another look at the playfield. It doesn't seem like it would be too bad to wax. Most of the playfield is wide open. The mini playfields seem accessible enough. The only parts that aren't accessible are the orbit -- which you don't really see anyway -- and the area near the OZ lanes. As for the area near the OZ lanes, I'm going to try to wax if I can, but if not, I'm not sure it is a big deal. That area doesn't get a lot of action, and the coil there is fairly low power so the ball seems pretty gentle when it bounces around. Not like an area near pops or slings where there is a lot of fast action.

One question for everyone: How do you wax around the rollovers? Do you just wax over them as if they were a part of the playfield, or do you just go up to the edge as best you can? It would seem like an area where wax can accumulate.

I removed the munchkinland playfield and installed the cliffy protector this morning. It was . . . difficult, but successful. I'm always surprised when I do something like this that the machine still works afterwards. . . .

I spoke too soon. Hitting the left flipper button caused a flutter of white lights across the rainbow targets and several of the inserts. It gradually got worse and worse. Fiddling under the playfield seemed to fix the problem, but only temporarily. Diagnosing the issue, I discovered that if pressed the button just slightly so that the left flipper would trigger but not the munchkinland flipper, then the issue would not happen. So, it was being triggered by the munchkinland flipper. Eventually, I noticed that some of the wires to the lightboards go right past that flipper on the underside of the playfield. Those lightboards are early in the chain and can affect everything. I moved the wires out of the way of the flipper, thinking they must have gotten in the way while I was reassembling the playfield, and reseated the connectors. I've played 3 games, and it seems to be working. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed. This is turning out to be a stressful day.

Thanks. Yes, I've played several more games, and it seems to be solved.

I'm having another problem resulting from the installation of the cliffy munchkinland protector. Now, when I plunge, about 50% or more of the time, the ball won't make it around to the pops. I've watched it carefully, and believe it is catching the right most edge of the cliffy protector, where it hangs over into the shooter lane. This rattles the ball and slows it considerably. Has anyone else experienced this, and what did you do? I'm thinking of loosening the three screws that hold the munchkinland playfield down by a few turns to see if that will raise it enough so that it is out of the way.

Thanks dmacy. Your pictures are spot on. That is exactly the trouble area. I think I just increased the reliability of the plunge to 80%, which is frankly where it was before I put the cliffy on. I loosened the 3 munchkinland hex screws by a few turns. I also noticed that the forked metal ramp in the shooter lane (I'm not sure what it is called) had a very steep angle at the beginning. I loosened the two screws and slid the two fork ends a bit to the right. After doing both things, I had several perfect plunges in a row, and I don't think I ever had a perfect plunge before that didn't feel just a slight bit sluggish. I still have a few balls that get hung up in that lane, but I can live with that. If it gets worse, I may try your suggestion about spacers, but I am in no mood to take that playfield off again anytime soon.

And that's why I won't be doing that.

That's great. I wish I had someone in my house to compete against, but my family doesn't play that much and when they do, unfortunately, they don't get on the board. So, I just have to compete against the factory default high scores.

Call some distributors. I bet there are a bunch of RR's still out there. It is a great game. Very different than anything else I've played. I also think it will likely hold its value quite well so if you ever grow tired of it, you can sell, buy a Stern, and have money left over.

I thought a loss added 0.5 to the multiplier while a win added +1. Am I wrong?

Well then I'm never going for that shot unless I have a win lined up. It is too dangerous. Thanks.

The shot is so tight on mine, I almost never make it, like only a 5% success rate, unless I backhand it with two balls on the right flipper. Sometimes, I think I make it only to have the ball bounce back out or get pinched between the flipper and the lane.

For me, trapping during multiball is extremely difficult on WOZ. The angle of the flippers is much shallower than my other two pins, and the balls seem to roll right off. The good thing, though, is that when I do trap and shoot just one ball at a time, I find getting control over that one ball again without draining is manageable.

In case anyone missed it, WOZ was featured on the Sci channel on Machines: How They Work. You can find it on demand. Nice computer renderings of exploded views of the game.

I just had the most amazing game! Somehow I stacked munchkin frenzy, rescue MB, emerald city MB, and crystal ball lights out. I got my munchkin award up to 260,000 points. I've never had that much from a munchkin mode. If I had tilted, I would have lost it all. I love how the game is coded to only award points for certain modes during the bonus. Completely makes you think twice about nudging when you have the points built up that high. This game is totally unique and thrilling (when it isn't beating the crap out of me).

I'm in Jamaica right now and have no desire to return. The only thing that remotely makes me want to come back is knowing that I get to play WOZ again.

So I've discovered the secret to high scores with me is to stack a munchkin mode with a crystal ball mode and, if possible, some multiball. I just got a 400,000+ point bonus which ended up being 80% of the points for my entire game.

Has anyone tried to do anything to hide the gap at the end of the munchkin huts where the lock ball arm comes out? I don't like staring at the mechanical guts and think it might be more aesthetic if I hung a small piece of black fabric, glued to the inside. Anyone try something similar?

Two questions:

1. I just noticed that the munchkin multiplier that you get from collecting HOADC doesn't carry over from ball to ball. Is there a way to change that in settings? I didn't see one.

2. Do people find the hurry ups to be lucrative in terms of points? I don't have time to watch the screen to see how many points I'm getting from them, but it doesn't seem like a lot.

I agree it could be too powerful. At the same time, I have only been able to cash in on the munchkin multiplier once, though it was a biggie, netting a total of 400,000+ points in the bonus. The difficulty of making the HOADC shot for me made me want to preserve my bonus multiplier when I get it. At least the number of horses carries over.

I installed the Titan silicon rings on the main flippers. I feel like I have a lot more control and am better able to trap the ball. They also look a heck of a lot better than the stock rubbers which always seemed dusty.

Yep. All other flippers have been switched. Getting the Titans on the mini flipper was a royal pain.

My lock ball arm is getting close to releasing two balls at once. I saw a setting for controlling the timing of that arm. Am I right that I should lower the timing slightly? Is there any other adjustment to help with this?

Thanks!

I have to say that properly leveling this pin makes a huge difference. I was at 5.9 degrees while maxing out the height of the back leg levelers due to the slope of my floor and carpeting. Another pinsider suggested I move the location of the nut on the front leg levelers from being between the leg leveler and the leg to being behind the leg. I now have the pitch up to 6.3 degrees and the game plays a lot faster and smoother. Problems I was having with inconsistent plunges seem to have lessened. And, slow balls that got diverted by mylar or roll over targets also have lessened. I know there are some critiques of JJP pins as being too slow and floaty, but I really don't think that is the case once properly leveled. My game now plays plenty fast, and the multiballs are even more insane.

Ugh! I was in the wicked witch battle, thinking now is the time I'm finally going to melt the witch, when one of my balls got stuck between the drop target and the plastic protector above it. The target kept bouncing up and down rapidly, keeping the ball trapped. It wouldn't stop. I was afraid I was going to break something, so I quickly opened the coin door to cut the power to the coils. I closed it quickly, but it was too late. Double drain!

Is there a setting for coin door ball save? I didn't see one in the menus.

An observation and a question:

Observation: If extra ball is lit, and you are playing There's No Place Like Home, hitting the saucer will still award the extra ball. I wouldn't have expected that.

Question: When is the munchkin multiplier (given by collecting HOADC) applied? During the bonus award at the end of the ball when the munchkin points are applied, or only during the munchkin mode itself? In other words, let's say I start Munchkin Frenzy without a multiplier, and I score 10,000 points. Then I get the multiplier for 1.5x. I then start Munchkin lullaby and score 10,000 points. During the bonus round, will I receive 30,000 points (1.5x 20,000), or will I just receive 20,000 points because the multiplier was only applied during Munchkin Lullaby, and the points took that multiplier into account?

So I don't need the multiplier while I'm playing the mode, is that right? I just need it before I lose the ball?

Ok, I'm still confused about this. Let's say I play Lollipop Lullaby and get 10,000 points. I have a Munchkin multiplier of 1.5x. At the end of ball bonus screen it will say:

Lollipop Lullaby 10,000
Munchkin Multiplier 1.5x 10,000

So, in both cases, it says 10,000 points. I should get 15,000 points. Perhaps that is calculated and not shown except in the total? If so, what is the meaning of showing "Munchkin Multiplier 1.5x 10,000"?

It's too bad it is not more straight forward. I normally like seeing my base score and how it gets multiplied. It makes me feel good. Here, I just feel confused.

That may be. Though, you would think it would be "Total 17,000" instead of "Munchkin Multiplier 1.5x 17,000".

And, Dorothy's Diapers isn't being implemented until 7.0 code.

Yes, but you have to set it. I believe the default is no saver.

I have to hand it to Keith. The way he programmed the outlanes to grow 10 times in size every time I make it to the witch battle is sheer genius.

Congrats! Loose connections and screws, as well as switches that need to be adjusted, seem to be pretty common out of the box. Mine had a few. Some may be obvious and others will reveal themselves as you play.

I noticed that sometimes when I'm done playing, I just sit there and stare at the machine. The thing is beautiful. So much to take in.

It's happened to me twice. I have a ticket in about it, but no answer yet. It is very uncommon in my experience, but I guess I'm not alone.

What do the two witch light inserts in front of the witch mean? Sometimes they are both green; sometimes one is green; sometimes one is orange; sometimes one is orange and the other is flashing. . . . I may have this a bit mixed up, but can anyone explain the different configurations? Thanks!

Thanks for the responses. I'm pretty sure I've seen one witch insert orange and the other green so not sure what that means. I'll pay closer attention. It is not intuitive certainly.

I've figured out the witch inserts:

Orange = witch skill shot is ready
One flashing white = two shots away from starting witch hurry up
Two flashing white = one shot away from starting witch hurry up
One green = one hurry up completed
Two green = two hurry ups completed
Two green plus fireball = fireball frenzy ready

You can have combinations of the above. So if one is orange and the other one is green, it means skill shot ready and you have completed two hurry ups. If one is green and two are flashing white, it means one hurry up completed and one more shot to start the next hurry up.

At least, I'm pretty sure that's it.

Finally melted the witch! So cool!

Finally beat the default GC score with a score of 704,453! My highest yet! (Take that JJP!!! ) I'm really starting to get a feel for the game and how to combine all the modes. Awesome fun!

Sounds like the switch is too closely gapped and being triggered by vibration. I haven't examined that switch to know what kind it is, but most of the switches are adjustable. Not sure if you will have to remove the upper playfield to get at it.

To test this, put the game in switch test mode and bang around the playfield, both regular and upper, to see if vibration causes it to trigger.

Great! I thought about doing something like that myself. Does the door stick out too much now?

I just did this with a tiny piece of weather stripping. Seems to compress down to an ideal thickness. The monkey moves back and forth smoothly, and the door looks completely normal from the player's position.

I'm thinking about getting a new shooter rod for my Ruby Red WOZ. I have a chrome housing and a black knob that came with it. Has anyone installed the Modfather rods? What do you think? I like the ones for the RR WOZ, but some of the other ones with the swirls are cool too. Has anyone experimented with other rods? Also, is there any other vendor who sells rods like that?

Cool. Did you get the larger knob on the rod or the smaller one?

That looks great! Larger may be the way to go for me.

It is a beautiful manual. A really nice bonus.

I installed the munchkinland cliffy because of what others said. I've looked at it a few times since installation, and it's definitely taken some hits from the ball. So, I agree that it is pretty necessary.

Just had an awesome game where everything went right! Melted the witch. Completed ECMB. Started Haunted Forest Multiball with ECMB and with 2x crystal ball scoring all stacked together. Ultimately, I got a score of 965,563, my highest to date. I wish I could have pushed it over the edge to 1,000,000, but not today.

All in all, even though I play a 3 ball game, I had 6 balls with the extra balls that were awarded to me. Just curious how many people play 3 ball vs. 5 ball games. I've heard a lot of people do 5 balls, but I think if I did that, my best games would last perhaps too long. I don't consider myself a great player, but once I get to know a table, I usually have a decent number of good games that can last a while.

I have a lot of plays. You are not obsessed. I don't have a lot of pins, so when I get a new one, I play the heck out of it, and then things slow down over time.

That's an interesting idea. Can you describe more? It worked out ok?

I put in a ticket about this. Vic suggested I move the USB connections in the back of the metal box to other slots. I need to do that this weekend. I've only had this happen a few times, like you.

I switched to Titan silicon flipper rubbers. They look great, are much cleaner, and handle quite well.

Nice. If not too much trouble, I'd be interested in seeing a picture of it with the red flipper rubbers. I kept the colors the same but did swap out all the flippers. I also put clear Titan rubbers on the slings which look amazing.

My right one came off within a few days. I super glued it back on, and it broke in half after a week. JJP sent me a new one. They said they had a bad batch of slippers which weren't flush and didn't adhere well. The new one has held up so far. Knock on wood.

Count me in the group that likes the slippers. It was a little hard getting used to, but now I can't imagine the game without them.

That looks great! I may have to do that. Thanks for posting.

Ok, really strange request here, but can someone try this for me: Start ECMB. While the balls are bouncing around, open the coin door and go into test mode. The game will end and the balls will drain. You can go through the menus for a few seconds. Then, exit test mode and go back into game mode. Look at your "Lock" LED right before the ramp. Is it working?

Don't worry if it isn't. Just turn off the pin, wait 10 seconds, and turn it back on again. It will work again.

I want to know if this is just me.

First one to try and report back gets entered into a drawing to win an all expense paid trip to Kansas! (Expenses not included.)

Bump for this. I'm really curious if this happens to others. Would someone be able to do me a favor and try this with the glass off? Thanks!

I believe WOZ is very sensitive to variations in voltage. My AC seems to have an effect on WOZ while not affecting other pins:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-my-ac-drawing-power-away-from-my-pins

I have Blitz wax. How does P21S compare to Blitz?

Aren't the decals for people who have the old playfields that showed early signs of wear? I wouldn't think you would want to use them at all unless you actually get wear. I would just use the mylar if it is not already on there.

Yes, get the ball into the slings and hope for the best.

In other words, no.

My topper doesn't fit but the game is awesome anyway.

Hang in there, Jakers. A lot of us have had issues out of the box. JJP support is great. You'll get your game fully operational soon.

I got that for the RAINBOW lights when I hit the left flipper. Eventually figured out that when I removed and put back in my munchkinland playfield, I shoved the wires back in such that they were touching the munchkinland flipper shaft. I moved them out of the way and solved the problem.

Fortunately, this one is easy. Watch this video:

Yes, you can order directly from Cliffy, and he has great customer service.

When you have a non-pinhead over to play some games, how do you describe what to do in WOZ? I love the rules, but they are so complex that I have a hard time describing even short term goals to a newbie. I'm left with wait until you see lock lit and then hit the ball up the ramp; do that three times to start multiball.

Thanks all. All good ideas. I especially like your approach merccat.

One thought I had was to tell people to hit the rainbow targets (an easy enough goal) until Twister is qualified and then shoot the ramp. If the lock becomes lit, then they are on their way to ECMB. Otherwise, they can try for a munchkin mode.

Ha! I've made that mistake before. From now on, I don't work on pins at night or before vacations.