(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

6 years ago



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There are 10449 posts in this topic. You are on page 198 of 209.
#9851 3 months ago

So I'm not sure if this is an issue or not or just requires a settings adjustment. I noticed this in 6.5 and yesterday when I upgraded to 7.02. When the monkey mech brings the ball from the lower playfield to the upper one and stops behind the door it does not let go of the ball until I press the flipper buttons. When I do I notice a slight shaker motor affect so it almost seems intended?

Thanks!

#9852 3 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

So I'm not sure if this is an issue or not or just requires a settings adjustment. I noticed this in 6.5 and yesterday when I upgraded to 7.02. When the monkey mech brings the ball from the lower playfield to the upper one and stops behind the door it does not let go of the ball until I press the flipper buttons. When I do I notice a slight shaker motor affect so it almost seems intended?
Thanks!

Ball may be magnetized.
Try a piece of tape over the pickup magnet.

#9853 3 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

So I'm not sure if this is an issue or not or just requires a settings adjustment. I noticed this in 6.5 and yesterday when I upgraded to 7.02. When the monkey mech brings the ball from the lower playfield to the upper one and stops behind the door it does not let go of the ball until I press the flipper buttons. When I do I notice a slight shaker motor affect so it almost seems intended?
Thanks!

That doesn’t sound right

#9854 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Ball may be magnetized.
Try a piece of tape over the pickup magnet.

Black electricians tape works best. A small piece across the top of the monkey magnet.

LTG : )

#9855 3 months ago
Quoted from PokerJake:

I bought the replacement screen through JJPs website. I'll try and buy a SD card from them when I give them a call. Thanks for your help guys.

I'm interested to know how you made out. My WOZ has static when displaying the Skill shot animation but almost everything else is clear as can be.
Thanks!

#9856 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ball may be magnetized.
Try a piece of tape over the pickup magnet.
Quoted from LTG:

Black electricians tape works best. A small piece across the top of the monkey magnet.
LTG : )

Thanks, I'll try that!

#9857 3 months ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

We've finally more or less finished this Wonderful of Wizard of Oz Escape Room. Now believe it or not we're going to build a Wizard mini golf. If you were wondering yes we also bought the JJP Wizard of Oz pinball which is amazing.
Here are some new shots where you can see the spooky forest. If anyone finds themselves in St Louis contact me and i'll give you a tour.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

WOW!! Simply outstanding!!!

#9858 3 months ago

I've got a lot of lighting problems with my WoZ and was hoping someone here might have some leftover boards and cables from a 2.0 upgrade. I need to diagnose my issues and it would be a major. If you have something, PM me. Thanks!

#9859 3 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I've got a lot of lighting problems with my WoZ and was hoping someone here might have some leftover boards and cables from a 2.0 upgrade. I need to diagnose my issues and it would be a major. If you have something, PM me. Thanks!

The 1.xx boards are serial, so you can diagnose any lighting issue to specific boards with just one long jumper cable (or borrow one from late in the chain in a pinch) as long as you start from board 1 and move through them one at a time, jumping over and removing from the system menu boards that are not working right.

#9860 3 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

The 1.xx boards are serial, so you can diagnose any lighting issue to specific boards with just one long jumper cable (or borrow one from late in the chain in a pinch) as long as you start from board 1 and move through them one at a time, jumping over and removing from the system menu boards that are not working right.

Considering everything from 28 is hosed, should I disable them all first and try one at a time?

#9861 3 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

should I disable them all first and try one at a time?

To test don't turn them off. I would try from #13 or #14 and work your way forward bypassing boards one at a time.

LTG : )

#9862 3 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Considering everything from 28 is hosed, should I disable them all first and try one at a time?

Always start with the board BEFORE the one where the issues seem to start. Use the ALL LED test and cycle through the Red, Green, Blue, White to note where the first board is that does not display all 4 colors correctly is. Work from there.

If you're SURE that board is 28, then start with W5 jump to W2. Remove 28 from the system menu. See if that fixes the issue on the boards after that.

If it doesn't fix the issue, jump from W5 to 15, remove W2 from the system menu and see if that fixes the issues on the boards after that.

etc.

You HAVE to remove the boards from the system menu when you jump over them or they will not work right.

#9863 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

To test don't turn them off. I would try from #13 or #14 and work your way forward bypassing boards one at a time.
LTG : )

Ok. 13 & 14 are working properly at the moment, so this seems at odds.

#9864 3 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Always start with the board BEFORE the one where the issues seem to start. Use the ALL LED test and cycle through the Red, Green, Blue, White to note where the first board is that does not display all 4 colors correctly is. Work from there.
If you're SURE that board is 28, then start with 27 jump to 29. Remove 28 from the system menu. See if that fixes the issue on the boards after that.
If it doesn't fix the issue, jump from 27 to 30, remove 29 from the system menu and see if that fixes the issues on the boards after that.
etc.
You HAVE to remove the boards from the system menu when you jump over them or they will not work right.

Just a heads up, but 27 is not before 28, w5 is before 28.

#9865 3 months ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Just a heads up, but 27 is not before 28, w5 is before 28.

Haha! I was just counting down numbers without looking at the chart. I forgot about 27 and 28 being apart. So, W5 to W2, skipping 28.
lightboard-diagram (resized).jpg

#9866 3 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Haha! I was just counting down without looking at the chart. So, W5 to W2, skipping 28.
[quoted image]

Doh, minus one point so LTG is in the lead now.

#9867 3 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Ok. 13 & 14 are working properly at the moment, so this seems at odds.

That is why you start with one of them. Take a long data harness and jump to the next board, and the next, and the next. One board at a time but keep using 13 or 14.

You do understand they are wired in series, a straight line ?

LTG : )

#9868 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

That is why you start with one of them. Take a long data harness and jump to the next board, and the next, and the next. One board at a time but keep using 13 or 14.
You do understand they are wired in series, a straight line ?
LTG : )

As an engineer by trade, indeed I do. I was getting hung up on a few process issues that didn't make sense, but I've got it taken care of I've identified three bad boards and am looking for replacements for W5, W1 & W3. If anyone has any they would be willing to part with, LMK. Thanks.

#9869 3 months ago

Just wondering...when doing this trouble shooting is it advisable to unplug and replug the cables in with the machine off or is it ok to do it while it’s on?

#9870 3 months ago
Quoted from dluth:

Just wondering...when doing this trouble shooting is it advisable to unplug and replug the cables in with the machine off or is it ok to do it while it’s on?

Data harnesses ? If so on. Go to Tests - LEDs - All LEDs is best. Turns working ones white. Easy to spot the glowing board to check it it's on.

Power cable ? Never with the game turned on.

LTG : )

#9871 89 days ago

Here are some more pics... if anyone is ever in town stop by. We have 10 pinball games. I'm going to wheel my WOZ pinball game in the center of this room just for a photo shoot! LOL www.stlouisescape.com

Final Oz 006(1) (resized).jpgFinal Oz 012(1) (resized).jpgFinal Oz 016(1) (resized).jpgFinal Oz 018(1) (resized).jpgFinal Oz 020(1) (resized).jpgFinal Oz 031(1) (resized).jpgFinal Oz 033(1) (resized).jpgFinal Oz 040(1) (resized).jpgFinal Oz 044(1) (resized).jpgFinal Oz 061(1) (resized).jpgWizard of Oz Escape 037(1) (resized).jpgWizard of Oz Escape 046(1) (resized).jpgWizard of Oz Escape 052(1) (resized).jpgWizard of Oz Escape 064(1) (resized).jpgWizard of Oz Escape 081 (resized).jpgWizard of Oz Escape 094 (resized).jpg
#9872 89 days ago

Is that last picture a mock-up of Auntie Em’s kitchen?

#9873 89 days ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

Is that last picture a mock-up of Auntie Em’s kitchen?

That is her kitchen yes, and its on airbags. So when the tornado starts the entire room moves believe it or not!

The escape has four areas... Dorothy Farm House Kitchen - Land of Oz - Spooky Forest - Wizard's Lair

#9874 89 days ago

Hey guys. I've been wanting a WOZ for years and am finally financially ready to get one. Some recent posts on PS have me slightly concerned though. I know to get as new of a build as possible, with the 2.0 lights, correct? What else should I be looking out for? Thanks in advance.

#9875 89 days ago

I'm not looking for nib I should say. Gently used.

#9876 89 days ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Hey guys. I've been wanting a WOZ for years and am finally financially ready to get one. Some recent posts on PS have me slightly concerned though. I know to get as new of a build as possible, with the 2.0 lights, correct? What else should I be looking out for? Thanks in advance.

2.0 lights for sure, then run the following tests :
- Castle door open, close and switch register. See if the doors close all the way
- Monkey mech up, down and catches ball
- Check the coil settings, and where they are compared to their default level

Regarding the 2.0 lights, I still can't get an answer regarding the eventual differences between factory installed and upgrade kit installed at home. People who did the swap from a 1.X kit noticed the 2.0 weren't as bright, but I have no idea if it has to do with the 2.0 or with the upgrade kit specifically.

Other than that you surely won't regret getting one !

#9877 89 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

2.0 lights for sure, then run the following tests :
- Castle door open, close and switch register. See if the doors close all the way
- Monkey mech up, down and catches ball
- Check the coil settings, and where they are compared to their default level
Regarding the 2.0 lights, I still can't get an answer regarding the eventual differences between factory installed and upgrade kit installed at home. People who did the swap from a 1.X kit noticed the 2.0 weren't as bright, but I have no idea if it has to do with the 2.0 or with the upgrade kit specifically.
Other than that you surely won't regret getting one !

Thank you!

#9878 89 days ago

In my opinion unless you don't like the color Any ruby red 75th addition is a safe purchase. The only ones that should bring Possible concern are the original green models. Great game.

#9879 89 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

In my opinion unless you don't like the color Any ruby red 75th addition is a safe purchase. The only ones that should bring Possible concern are the original green models. Great game.

Be careful with the Ruby Reds, some of them (mine typically !) came with the 1.X light boards

#9880 89 days ago

I forgot, check the witch switch, they sometimes don't register well and it's a serious PITA to fix.

#9881 89 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

Be careful with the Ruby Reds, some of them (mine typically !) came with the 1.X light boards

Yes and rarely an issue has been reported that I have seen.

#9882 89 days ago

Appreciate it Yelo but 2.0 OR DIE at this point. Not takin any chances lol.

#9883 89 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Yes and rarely an issue has been reported that I have seen.

5 small GIs died on mine, I replaced them. Then my Tin Man board died, at 250$ a replacement one, I didnt think twice and went for the 2.0 upgrade.

#9884 89 days ago

Check the Edge of the munchkin playfiled by the center ramp- ball gets real jumpy and tends to chip that Area...I recommend cliffy for the edge, PITA to do but necessary. Also check for playfiled wear around the forest pop bumpers - think this was also an early issue. Direct print cabinet looks so nice on the ECLE - I went with that and am ordering the 2.0 board set now, will install when I have the time or when a boards go and needed.

Good luck

#9885 89 days ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Hey guys. I've been wanting a WOZ for years and am finally financially ready to get one. Some recent posts on PS have me slightly concerned though. I know to get as new of a build as possible, with the 2.0 lights, correct? What else should I be looking out for? Thanks in advance.

ECLE with 2.0 lighting is the best combination. Direct print cabinet, cool apron. All game features.
RR 75th with 2.0 lighting next (Note that NOT ALL RR 75th have 2.0)

If you find a nice ECLE, Emerald Standard, or RR 75th with 1.xx lighting, note that it's $800 and about 10-14 hours to upgrade it and negotiate accordingly.

#9886 88 days ago

2.0 boards will (should) be in any game produced after 12/15/16. there is a kit available to update any game.

that being said, my person 75th with a build date of 2015 is been flawless as far as light boards go.

#9887 88 days ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Check the Edge of the munchkin playfiled by the center ramp- ball gets real jumpy and tends to chip that Area...I recommend cliffy for the edge, PITA to do but necessary. Also check for playfiled wear around the forest pop bumpers - think this was also an early issue. Direct print cabinet looks so nice on the ECLE - I went with that and am ordering the 2.0 board set now, will install when I have the time or when a boards go and needed.
Good luck

I have this and it works well and super easy to install.

https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-munchkinland-chrome-edge-protector

#9888 88 days ago

Just be aware this is a plastic piece (and sticks on, right?) and cliffs is stainless and thick.

#9889 88 days ago

I appreciate the responses guys...thank you. There's one fs in IL that was professionally upgraded to 2.0. Do you guys think that to be inferior and more prone to trouble vs a later model with 2.0 factory installed?

#9890 88 days ago

No. If done as it is instructed should be same

#9891 88 days ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

I appreciate the responses guys...thank you. There's one fs in IL that was professionally upgraded to 2.0. Do you guys think that to be inferior and more prone to trouble vs a later model with 2.0 factory installed?

You should be good.

#9892 88 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

You should be good.

Agreed

#9893 88 days ago

I wouldn’t pass on a mint RR with the 1.75 boards for a good price. I love mine and only had the Rainbow board on the munchkin upper playfield go bad, otherwise the game is flawless.

C8C6E50A-7579-481C-A043-0E525F8E6A9F (resized).jpeg
#9894 88 days ago
Quoted from darkryder:

I wouldn’t pass on a mint RR with the 1.75 boards for a good price. I love mine and only had the Rainbow board on the munchkin upper playfield go bad, otherwise the game is flawless.[quoted image]

1.xx boards are all inherently flawed and WILL fail prematurely. Every. Single. Revision. It's an inherently flawed design that cannot be fixed to make it stable like 2.xx. Whether or not and particular 1.xx machine has failed yet is irrelevant. They're all ticking bombs.

2.xx is the only system that is reliable long term, so any 1.xx system has an inherent monetary ($800) and time (10-14 hour) cost hidden in its sale price on the secondary market.

#9895 88 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Just be aware this is a plastic piece (and sticks on, right?) and cliffs is stainless and thick.

Yea but so what? Its definitely thick enough (thicker than cliffy) to protect anything thats thrown at it. I have the cliffy also but no need to put it on..

#9896 88 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Yea but so what? Its definitely thick enough (thicker than cliffy) to protect anything thats thrown at it. I have the cliffy also but no need to put it on..

I think it could be mistaken for metal by some people

#9897 87 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think it could be mistaken for metal by some people

Oh gotcha... I know that some people didnt like it due to its Chrome like finish.. It doesnt bother me but cliffy piece would look better. Its just that cliffy is a PITA to put on.. If I ever need to remove the munchkin land playfield, ill put it on..

#9898 87 days ago

^^. The chrome look is the reason I went with cliffy- definitely considered this option but just thought it drew too much attention.

#9899 87 days ago
Quoted from mjs2:

^^. The chrome look is the reason I went with cliffy- definitely considered this option but just thought it drew too much attention.

I can see why you would say that, but once its in the machine and you are playing it with everything else going on, you dont notice it at all.

#9900 87 days ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

I appreciate the responses guys...thank you. There's one fs in IL that was professionally upgraded to 2.0. Do you guys think that to be inferior and more prone to trouble vs a later model with 2.0 factory installed?

There's no reason for the 2.0 kit to be less reliable, it has its own power supply.

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