The mount is loose. I can turn her left or right and she is now moving forward and backwards a bit. The screws look to be underneath her that are loose. Not sure how to get to those exactly.

Rubber bounce is measured with a Durometer.

All of the rubber colors have different Durometer ratings. Silicone and urethane are somewhat different.

White is the softest. It lasts less long but is softer and bouncier.

I put white rubber in most of my games, urethane for the posts (black rubber splits off in just a few plays...). For home use its just fine, I like the way it plays.

I put white rubber on my Doctor Who, high end restore, it plays like a dream and looks amazing.

Tigger would disagree! Black and orange are the bounciest!!!

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Turn the kicker power down a little.

LTG : )

Or maybe I should have said the bracket that the witch is mounted on is loose. There are two screws in her back that hold her onto it, and that mounts with two screws under her to the base. Those two screws under her are loose.

SOME white rubber is more bouncy. There are some really crappy white out there where the rubber is cut in with some garbage that makes them tear easily and be about as bouncy as black.

Marco Specialties has THE best white rubber. Very bouncy, excellent quality. Don't bother with anyone elses.

Thats my go to !

I agree the weird vinyl stuff was garbage.

Lol, i can't deny this...

I got the witch off from the top of the playfield. Man, what a PITA the way the angle is for those screws in her back..

The threaded rod the witch rides on pulls out of the game with her. If you grab her below the hat (anywhere but the hat) you can gently pull her directly up and out of the game completely, nothing special to do (but remove the tube if it is on). Putting it back in is the reverse but don't force it or bend the rod.

lol, well.. that information would have served me better yesterday! lol

Thanks! That will make things much easier in the future.

Heh. Yup, been extremely acquainted with the witch recently.

OMG, I just replaced this rubber ring last night. I wish I had seen this video before wasting an hour figuring out how to get access to the third post.

My machine is only a week old (NIB from Automated services in CT). I think I may of gotten the last RR in NA. I had several rubbers broken on arrival. Automated sent replacement rubber in two days free of charge.

I am considering getting Pin Stadium lighting for my new RR WOZ. I am not sure if Omega or standard lights work best for WOZ. Anyone have experience with either?

Honestly Any lighting option is great for WOZ. One of the titles that Really need subliminal lighting. There are several pics of WOZ installs in this thread. I did the standard PS lights and it looks great.

I have standard with the UV flasher triggered from the witch. Works great and can see well.

I'm biased but I like spotlights to be able to keep parts of the playfield dim. Maybe their newer version do that, I thought I read something about setting individual areas now. I did 7 spotlights, RGB trough and backboard lighting and am very happy with it.

Anyone ever see this with their crystal ball display? I've replaced the display and check all connections. All I can think of is a corrupt sd card image.
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Bad connection or faulty screen? Maybe? My connector to the screen was loose when I got it. I hot glued the connector to the screen so it would stop becoming loose.

I replaced the screen with a new one and tried to wiggle the connection while it's showing the static to see if it was the connection but nothing improved.

Bad cable?

Some animations show up just fine though

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Sd cards can get corrupted.

Bad cables are more likely.

Open a ticket or see what jjp says.

I've tried twice and no response. Their customer service is some of the worst I've experienced anywhere, including all the issues with my Wonka that was like pulling teeth trying to talk to someone. I'll try and call them next week.

How did you source the new screen? It has to come from JJP, they won't release the code that runs the clips on the screen.

They also sell the SD Card loaded. I tried backing mine up, and I have a disk image, but I'm not sure if its usable.

If you replaced with a JJP screen and didn't change the SD Card, I would do that next. It wouldn't likely be the cable if some clips are playing fine and you confirmed the connection on the I/O board side.

I bought the replacement screen through JJPs website. I'll try and buy a SD card from them when I give them a call. Thanks for your help guys.

I would just email Shannan for ordering parts. If you know the part number it's even faster, but for something like this you can tell her and she'll know. You can try and get a warranty replacement, she might be able to help, if you are in the 1 year electronics warranty. I don't think the card is that much, like $10 or something.

[email protected]

Awesome, just shot her an email. Thanks.

The standards are the best option for WOZ because there aren't any real flashers at all to use as trigger points for the Omegas. They are expensive but very well constructed and easy to install and customize color and brightness, I prefer them over having a bunch of add-on ugly spotlights stuck all over the game, YMMV.

Would you mind telling us what "LE" number you received and what the actual serial number is? I'm still curious if they've exceeded the 1500 original "limited" production number or not.

My game number is 1144

thanks. I think I will invest in the standard edition.

Or make your own if you’re into that sort of thing. Easy enough and actually turns out better imo.

Considering a WOZ ECLE with 5V buffered light boards. From what I've read these still can break but just not as frequently. Should I wait for a 2.0 upgrade or are the 5V buffered boards solid enough in a home environment?

5v boards are more unreliable than the 7.5v ones IMO, but both the 5v and 7.5v buffered or unbuffered will prematurely fail eventually. It's not "IF" but "WHEN" they fail. Just make sure you take the upgrade cost of a 2.0 system into the price negotiation for the ECLE with the 1.xx system.

Keep trying to call. Once you connect, they will be very helpful. I tried three times and finally connected. Emails and messages didn't seem to work.

I didn't realize this, but I think my sd card/crystal ball display has not been working for a long time. I am talking probably a year. Nothing comes on behind the ball. How do I troubleshoot this? Is there a way to test this in settings? I have a ruby red woz. Thanks for the help.

if it's not cut yet just rotate the rubber a bit.

Turn power down on the kicker too.

LTG : )

Reseat the SD card behind it. Be sure connector is on tight. Then reseat it's connector on the motherboard.

It doesn't really show a lot. With the game powered up in attract mode. Keep hitting a flipper button and eventually you'll see a few things like the splash screen and other stuff. It isn't on all the time.

LTG : )

And you'll get a static image while in the menu. If it's the screen get the card from jjp at the same time, it's not expensive and could be the issue.

I guess the connector came out from motherboard. I just don’t know where it connects into

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Is this the six pin connection below the cable? I’m trying to put it in there but it won’t go in.

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I figured it out. Thanks for the help. I believe this was never connected from the time i got the game new in box. Lol

Too late to help. The manual has the pinouts for the motherboard. That would let you know what goes where.

LTG : )

I just wanted to share this because if you love the game here is another game... we're building a Wonderful Wizard of Oz escape room based on the book. Wouldn't the pinball game look good in here???

I'm having so much fun creating this entire WORLD!

Check it out!

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That looks awesome!

Second that!

Very Nice! Well done! Love to come check it out if ever in town. Maybe Oct.