(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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There are 9855 posts in this topic. You are on page 195 of 198.
#9701 31 days ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Anyone making a munchkin house mod or another monkey mod?

The flying monkey is one of the most ambitious mods i have ever seen.

Perfect in its execution and theme integration

Steve Gouviea is a Mad Genius!

#9702 30 days ago

Munchkin house is coming soon, updates are posted here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-upgraded-munchkinland-huts-amp-lock-ball-add-on

I have an idea for a monkey mod but we have 3 or 4 other WOZ mods coming out first. I've been playing with a prototype but it's mechanically complex and very little room to house the mechanisms.

Next to ship after witch (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-woz-flaming-witch-with-realistic-fire-mod-development) is crystal ball (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pmc-woz-crystal-ball-upgrade-announcement-). Then probably Munchkin house and two others that we haven't announced yet.

#9703 28 days ago

posted my spare 5v boards and the one i took out from my games if anyone is interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/90762

#9704 28 days ago

Hello,

Would any fine upstanding owners of WOZ be willing to give me a brief list of differences between an older original run WOZ and a new/newer version please?

Considering a WOZ and need to understand the age differences; motherboard, lights (i know to look for 2.0 lights), cabinet, playfield, features, issues? etc. Pros/cons.

Thank you in advance.

#9705 28 days ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Hello,
Would any fine upstanding owners of WOZ be willing to give me a brief list of differences between an older original run WOZ and a new/newer version please?
Considering a WOZ and need to understand the age differences; motherboard, lights (i know to look for 2.0 lights), cabinet, playfield, features, issues? etc. Pros/cons.
Thank you in advance.

Most of the versions are the same but with different colored rails, legs, wireforms... The LE comes with a wooden apron and the ruby red comes with additional toys inside (tornado, Toto figure, probably others I am forgetting). The toppers are different as well. The Yellow Brick Road does not have the flying monkey if ive read correctly.

All games will play the same so that is good.

There might be some more I am missing so maybe some others can chime in.

#9706 28 days ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Hello,
Would any fine upstanding owners of WOZ be willing to give me a brief list of differences between an older original run WOZ and a new/newer version please?
Considering a WOZ and need to understand the age differences; motherboard, lights (i know to look for 2.0 lights), cabinet, playfield, features, issues? etc. Pros/cons.
Thank you in advance.

According to the WOZ manual, if it is manufactured after Dec 15, 2016 it should have the 2.0 lights installed from the factory.

I believe the Yellow Brick Road version does not have the monkey mech.

They just produced a small batch of RR’s last year. So might be able to find a new RR if interested.

I think their were four models, standard, emerald city, yellow brick road and ruby red.

I own an RR and love it.

There are some differences with castle walls with different models, I think, not sure.

#9707 28 days ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Hello,
Would any fine upstanding owners of WOZ be willing to give me a brief list of differences between an older original run WOZ and a new/newer version please?
Considering a WOZ and need to understand the age differences; motherboard, lights (i know to look for 2.0 lights), cabinet, playfield, features, issues? etc. Pros/cons.
Thank you in advance.

Are you considering mine mate . If so gimme a pm on pinball info. I’ll bore you for ages about it

#9708 28 days ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Are you considering mine mate . If so gimme a pm on pinball info. I’ll bore you for ages about it

It had caught my eye - but don't get too excited!

I have my LOTR still for sale right now and literally about £150 left til next payday...

Might message you later if that's ok?

#9709 28 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Most of the versions are the same but with different colored rails, legs, wireforms... The LE comes with a wooden apron and the ruby red comes with additional toys inside (tornado, Toto figure, probably others I am forgetting). The toppers are different as well. The Yellow Brick Road does not have the flying monkey if ive read correctly.
All games will play the same so that is good.
There might be some more I am missing so maybe some others can chime in.

RR comes with all of the backalley creations stuff (tornado, toto and castle walls), shaker motor and invisiglass
YBR and ECLE have wood apron
Green special edition from automated has regular apron but ELCE colors elsewhere
Standard has a green lit acrylic etched topper
YBR has color printed topper, RR has a different color printed topper, ECLE has throne room with fire pots (two color) plastic etched topper
YBR does not have monkey mech, does have side blades included I believe

YBR, ECLE, Green and RR have powder coated side rails, lock down bar, legs and habit trails
YBR has a sparkling yellow finish on the YBR playfield areas

Some RR and all YBR have 2.0 lights (don't believe any ECLE or standard had 2.0 from the factory but not 100% on that)

Each edition has their own backglass related to the color/edition
Early models may have come with a printed manual which may also not be a complete manual
Early games had playfield issues and JJP has decals they sell to help hide this

YBR has the new cabinet/CPU layout (CPU is not in the bottom of the cabinet), no idea if this matters to anyone
Early games had direct print cabinets which some say are desirable, I've had both and don't really care

I would guess green edition are the "rarest" but really ECLE is probably the actual offering that was the rarest. Standard might be next and then YBR and RR but don't know for sure.

I think that's all I have right now.

#9710 28 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

I think their were four models, standard, emerald city, yellow brick road and ruby red.
There are some differences with castle walls with different models, I think, not sure.

Automated "green" edition is out there, so sort of a model
Cast castle walls came from backalley on the RR and go all around, others just get the molded plastic in the back

#9711 28 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Automated "green" edition is out there, so sort of a model
Cast castle walls came from backalley on the RR and go all around, others just get the molded plastic in the back

I have one of those Green Editions from Automated...

#9712 28 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I have one of those Green Editions from Automated...

Is it as I described? I think I've only seen one or two pics, not sure pics are still on their site. So just like ECLE without ECLE topper and apron? But 2.0 lights, right?

#9713 28 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is it as I described? I think I've only seen one or two pics, not sure pics are still on their site. So just like ECLE without ECLE topper and apron? But 2.0 lights, right?

Yes thats right. Comes with the standard topper and no wooden apron. Does have the 2.0 lights. Everything else is the same as the LE....

#9714 28 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is it as I described? I think I've only seen one or two pics, not sure pics are still on their site. So just like ECLE without ECLE topper and apron? But 2.0 lights, right?

Also to mention, it is not direct print on the cabinet. They are decals...

#9715 27 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Also to mention, it is not direct print on the cabinet. They are decals...

Decals or radcals (thicker plastic)? My RR has radcals on it but I wasn't sure if there were 2 or 3 cabinet finishes. I know there are at least 2 cabinet types (pre YBR and YBR). I think I've only seen direct print and radcal.

#9716 27 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Decals or radcals (thicker plastic)? My RR has radcals on it but I wasn't sure if there were 2 or 3 cabinet finishes. I know there are at least 2 cabinet types (pre YBR and YBR). I think I've only seen direct print and radcal.

Pretty sure they are decals but i have no experience with radcals...

#9717 27 days ago

My RR has decals

#9718 27 days ago
Quoted from calfdemon:

My RR has decals

I thought the RR had decals as well..

#9719 27 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is it as I described? I think I've only seen one or two pics, not sure pics are still on their site. So just like ECLE without ECLE topper and apron? But 2.0 lights, right?

The Green Automated Edition originally shipped with 7.5v boards. Some were upgraded to 2.0 board before being shipped.

#9720 27 days ago

Humm.. mine might be the only RR I've seen in person and the only radcal I've ever seen in person. I think it was a factory option either way. The radcals are like 3-4mm thick plastic, you would know if you saw them. Very impervious to scratches but take a bit away from the look.

#9721 27 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I thought the RR had decals as well..

Yep, regular decals on the RR unless you upgraded to Radcals after it was an option. Just an FYI for anyone looking at used RRs they did not originally include Invisiglass, Shaker and Printed manual with the RR. These were added when the price was increased to $9500 so don't assume every used RR out there has those items.

#9722 27 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Yep, regular decals on the RR unless you upgraded to Radcals after it was an option. Just an FYI for anyone looking at used RRs they did not originally include Invisiglass, Shaker and Printed manual with the RR. These were added when the price was increased to $9500 so don't assume every used RR out there has those items.

Thats interesting and good to know!

#9723 27 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Yep, regular decals on the RR unless you upgraded to Radcals after it was an option. Just an FYI for anyone looking at used RRs they did not originally include Invisiglass, Shaker and Printed manual with the RR. These were added when the price was increased to $9500 so don't assume every used RR out there has those items.

I was offered the RR version very early on. It didnt have the toys, those were added for the 75th anniversary edition.

We decided to stay with the ECLEWOZ.
It had the direct print cab, invisiglass and knocker along with the wooden apron and slightly different topper.

The playfields are all exactly the same, so the game is exactly the same on all versions.

They only change cosmetically.

Version 2.0 boards were developed for the Hobbit and added to WOZ a couple years into production on for stability.

Quite a few WOZ games had board failures, but not all, (mine is running perfectly with the original 7.5v system all these years with thousands of plays).

The 2.0 system is a bit dimmer, and the game is pretty dark as it is. Im not sold on it until they work out a solution. Interestingly the 2.0 system is vibrant and bright in the Hobbit.

The only recent change is the Yellow Brick Road version with the missing monkey mech and non functional single door on the castle playfield.
Although the new swivel monitor bracket and moving the computer to the head is really nice.

#9724 27 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I was offered the RR version very early on. It didnt have the toys, those were added for the 75th anniversary edition.
We decided to stay with the ECLEWOZ.
It had the direct print cab, invisiglass and knocker along with the wooden apron and slightly different topper.
The playfields are all exactly the same, so the game is exactly the same on all versions.
They only change cosmetically.
Version 2.0 boards were developed for the Hobbit and added to WOZ a couple years into production on for stability.
Quite a few WOZ games had board failures, but not all, (mine is running perfectly with the original 7.5v system all these years with thousands of plays).
The 2.0 system is a bit dimmer, and the game is pretty dark as it is. Im not sold on it until they work out a solution. Interestingly the 2.0 system is vibrant and bright in the Hobbit.
The only recent change is the Yellow Brick Road version with the missing monkey mech and non functional single door on the castle playfield.
Although the new swivel monitor bracket and moving the computer to the head is really nice.

Interesting that the same boards are bright on Hobbit.. I know there is a brightness setting for the game, but im not sure off hand what the default is or if its a good idea to crank that up??

On mine (2.0 boards), the inserts seem fine, its the GI that is dim... Im not sure I want to max out the insert brightness to boost GI. I would imagine that boosting brightness only leads to a quicker failing led down the road.

#9725 27 days ago

Swivel monitor bracket - I have not yet had the need to remove the monitor in my ECLE but was wondering if there was a quick release that I was missing or is it attached with hardware and needs to be dismantled to get behind it?

#9726 27 days ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Swivel monitor bracket - I have not yet had the need to remove the monitor in my ECLE but was wondering if there was a quick release that I was missing or is it attached with hardware and needs to be dismantled to get behind it?

It doesnt just pull out? its locked? Ive never tried..

#9727 27 days ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Swivel monitor bracket - I have not yet had the need to remove the monitor in my ECLE but was wondering if there was a quick release that I was missing or is it attached with hardware and needs to be dismantled to get behind it?

There's a swing-back block of wood on each side and then when the wood's out of the way, you lift a latch on each side to release the monitor. It's nice to be able to move the monitor out, but it's actually a hokey latching system that should be redesigned.

#9728 27 days ago

Awesome. Thanks for the info.

#9729 27 days ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Swivel monitor bracket - I have not yet had the need to remove the monitor in my ECLE but was wondering if there was a quick release that I was missing or is it attached with hardware and needs to be dismantled to get behind it?

Your monitor is screwed into place.

Only the new Yellow Brick Road edition with the new style cabinet has the swivel mount bracket.

LTG : )

#9730 27 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Your monitor is screwed into place.
Only the new Yellow Brick Road edition with the new style cabinet has the swivel mount bracket.
LTG : )

I have a 75th RR and the monitor has a swivel mount. Made 2/17

#9731 27 days ago
Quoted from avspin:

I have a 75th RR and the monitor has a swivel mount. Made 2/17

Did not know that. Thank you.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : Tech Support - first to go last to know.

LTG : )

#9732 27 days ago

Lol..
I've a standard and there is no monitor but a projector in the apron.

#9733 26 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Did not know that. Thank you.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : Tech Support - first to go last to know.
LTG : )

I think starting with dialed in, it has the swivel mount, and the later runs of RR also used that mount.

#9734 26 days ago
Quoted from avspin:

I have a 75th RR and the monitor has a swivel mount. Made 2/17

But is the CPU also in there? Or is this a crossover period with swivel mount and CPU still in the bottom?

#9735 26 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I was offered the RR version very early on. It didnt have the toys, those were added for the 75th anniversary edition.

I did not know there were non 75th RR's... I thought that was the edition and I didn't know they came without the toys, wow. So many combinations.

I'd have loved an ECLE with the toys. Now I guess I could make one. The red is nice but the green has me and the wood apron, so choice.

#9736 26 days ago

Hey guys,

I noticed last night that my white rubber ring by the OZ lanes is getting cut by the slingshot kicker. Need to buy a new one. Suggestions?

Also, the part number from JJP looks to say 25-2003-32-0 but it calls it a "Black rubber ring - 2 inches". Is that correct, 2 inches?

#9737 26 days ago

Good link on how/what to remove to replace that rubber.

#9738 26 days ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Good link on how/what to remove to replace that rubber.

Thanks, good video...

#9739 26 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Thanks, good video...

Color does not matter since you are unable to see it. Mine broke shortly after I received it and I had to replace it. Another recommendation is to turn down the sling power in the settings.

And yes, the size listed in the manual is correct.

#9740 26 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Color does not matter since you are unable to see it. Mine broke shortly after I received it and I had to replace it. Another recommendation is to turn down the sling power in the settings.
And yes, the size listed in the manual is correct.

Great, thanks! Ill take a look at the sling shot power as well.

#9741 26 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Great, thanks! Ill take a look at the sling shot power as well.

One thing I do when I happen to have the glass off is rotate the rubbers when they show wear. I know they are cheap to buy, but I like to get my monies worth! It’s like rotating your tires to even out the wear and get the most from them.

#9742 26 days ago

Oh, another thing that I forgot to mention. My witch is loose. I tried to unscrew her from the back from above the playfield but had no luck.

Any ideas of how to do this? I assume I will need to remove everything from below the playfield?

#9743 26 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

One thing I do when I happen to have the glass off is rotate the rubbers when they show wear. I know they are cheap to buy, but I like to get my monies worth! It’s like rotating your tires to even out the wear and get the most from them.

Well, in this case it is being cut by the kicker on that slingshot. The rubber is in good shape otherwise. But yes, that is a good idea..

#9744 26 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Hey guys,
I noticed last night that my white rubber ring by the OZ lanes is getting cut by the slingshot kicker. Need to buy a new one. Suggestions?
Also, the part number from JJP looks to say 25-2003-32-0 but it calls it a "Black rubber ring - 2 inches". Is that correct, 2 inches?

Mine also broke fairly soon after I got it. I replaced it with a Titan silicone ring and turned down the slingshot power by a notch or two. I have not had a problem since.

#9745 26 days ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

Mine also broke fairly soon after I got it. I replaced it with a Titan silicone ring and turned down the slingshot power by a notch or two. I have not had a problem since.

Ditto

#9746 26 days ago

Anyone know how I can get to the bottom screws that holds the witch bracket on? I tried unscrewing her from the back while being above the playfield but couldnt get the angle to unscrew it. Does the witch assembly come out easy from underneath?

I didnt have time last night to do a full check and figured maybe someone here has done this.

#9747 26 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

But is the CPU also in there? Or is this a crossover period with swivel mount and CPU still in the bottom?

CPU is in the bottom. I have all the toys, shaker, glass, etc.

#9748 26 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Hey guys,
I noticed last night that my white rubber ring by the OZ lanes is getting cut by the slingshot kicker. Need to buy a new one. Suggestions?
Also, the part number from JJP looks to say 25-2003-32-0 but it calls it a "Black rubber ring - 2 inches". Is that correct, 2 inches?

The specification on that ring is 2" white.
Its a little more bouncy than black, so you can turn down the power to it 3 notches and it works fine.

#9749 26 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Oh, another thing that I forgot to mention. My witch is loose. I tried to unscrew her from the back from above the playfield but had no luck.
Any ideas of how to do this? I assume I will need to remove everything from below the playfield?

Its the witch itself just loose on its mount?

It just pulls straight out with the power off.

Tighten and push it back in.

#9750 26 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The specification on that ring is 2" white.
Its a little more bouncy than black, so you can turn down the power to it 3 notches and it works fine.

Really? A white rubber is more bouncy than a black one?? I would have never known that. Learn something new every day here.

Thanks!

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