Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019Thanks Dash...
I think it’s a code problem - balls seems fine, I just think the disabling the magnet During multi ball would eliminate this.
I have had the capture arrow lit and left orbit did not activate monkey on a couple of occasions - I’ll hit right orbit in next shot and magnet comes on and monkey captures ball. (I’ll retest the top left switch again)
I tried this - it’s so tight, the ball guide actually cuts the new rubber in half - I just moved the post to the back and play better.
Quoted from Rager170:I have an issue once in a while where my ball gets stuck under the munchkin playfield. I cant see what it gets hung up on. A little rocking of the machine back and forth sets it free... Anyone have any ideas?
Same here. I just nudge it out. It frustrates my 5 year old though as he’s not strong enough to nudge it out. Happens fairly frequently.
Quoted from Rager170:I have an issue once in a while where my ball gets stuck under the munchkin playfield. I cant see what it gets hung up on. A little rocking of the machine back and forth sets it free... Anyone have any ideas?
Might have some debri or bad rubber under the PF? I have the rare occurance of this as well but a slight nudge gets it going again. Maybe it's time to remove the Munchkin PF and take look.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Same here. I just nudge it out. It frustrates my 5 year old though as he’s not strong enough to nudge it out. Happens fairly frequently.
Quoted from drained:Might have some debri or bad rubber under the PF? I have the rare occurance of this as well but a slight nudge gets it going again. Maybe it's time to remove the Munchkin PF and take look.
Yup, a quick nudge does it. I wasnt sure if anyone knew what exactly is making it get stuck.
I will probably take off the playfield at some point to take a look. I have a cliffy to install so timing is good.. whenever i have actual time to do it ha.
Quoted from Rager170:I have an issue once in a while where my ball gets stuck under the munchkin playfield. I cant see what it gets hung up on. A little rocking of the machine back and forth sets it free... Anyone have any ideas?
Probably getting stuck where the ball is returned after going through the OZ lanes. The area below the OZ lanes doesn't have mylar but where it rejoins the orbit there is mylar. This results is a 'ball trap' when a ball plunged lightly enough doesn't have enough momentum to overcome the mylar ridge. I have this happen all the time and it is an annoyance for sure. I reach up and shake the machine up near where the ball is stuck to clear it. If you can get to the side of your machine near the back box and look it is fairly easy to see the ball just sitting there waiting for your nudge to get it rolling again.
I have seen a fix for this (probably in this thread) where mylar was applied below the OZ lanes area, effectively eliminating the lip. It looks like it would be difficult to do a nice job of this without one of those craft cutters. BTW if someone is willing to do make some mylar that fits this area, count me as your first customer.
Here is a post on this same topic with a nice graphic.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/37#post-3278982
Quoted from fnosm:Probably getting stuck where the ball is returned after going through the OZ lanes. The area below the OZ lanes doesn't have mylar but where it rejoins the orbit there is mylar. This results is a 'ball trap' when a ball plunged lightly enough doesn't have enough momentum to overcome the mylar ridge. I have this happen all the time and it is an annoyance for sure. I reach up and shake the machine up near where the ball is stuck to clear it. If you can get to the side of your machine near the back box and look it is fairly easy to see the ball just sitting there waiting for your nudge to get it rolling again.
I have seen a fix for this (probably in this thread) where mylar was applied below the OZ lanes area, effectively eliminating the lip. It looks like it would be difficult to do a nice job of this without one of those craft cutters. BTW if someone is willing to do make some mylar that fits this area, count me as your first customer.
Quoted from fnosm:Here is a post on this same topic with a nice graphic.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/37#post-3278982
Yup, thats exactly the area... annoying ha.
Quoted from mjs2:Thanks Dash...
I think it’s a code problem - balls seems fine, I just think the disabling the magnet During multi ball would eliminate this.
I have had the capture arrow lit and left orbit did not activate monkey on a couple of occasions - I’ll hit right orbit in next shot and magnet comes on and monkey captures ball. (I’ll retest the top left switch again)
I tried this - it’s so tight, the ball guide actually cuts the new rubber in half - I just moved the post to the back and play better.
There’s an opto under the castle on the left orbit. Did you test if it registers well ?
Quoted from adol75:There’s an opto under the castle on the left orbit. Did you test if it registers well ?
Good call, the optos pop out sometimes and is a super easy fix to pop them back in.
Quoted from Rager170:I will probably take off the playfield at some point to take a look.
Then roll a ball through slowly, or stop at various points to see where it actually stops. You may have to adjust lane guides or something.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : Adjust is a code word for bend the darn thing.
Quoted from LTG:Then roll a ball through slowly, or stop at various points to see where it actually stops. You may have to adjust lane guides or something.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : Adjust is a code word for bend the darn thing.
lol thanks LTG!
Quoted from adol75:There’s an opto under the castle on the left orbit. Did you test if it registers well ?
I’ll try that this weekend. Thx!
Quoted from Rager170:I have an issue once in a while where my ball gets stuck under the munchkin playfield. I cant see what it gets hung up on. A little rocking of the machine back and forth sets it free... Anyone have any ideas?
Under munchkin playfield ball hang:
There is a rubber under it near the top edge.
If it slips up and out of its post notch it causes the ball hang.
You can reach it without tools.
It's just below the upper sling.
Just roll it back down.
You will see that it up hugging the top. It should be lower onto its notch
Quoted from pinballinreno:There is a rubber under it near the top.
If it slips up and out of its post notch it causes the ball hang.
You can reach it without tools.
It's just below the upper sling.
Just roll it back down.
You will see that it up hugging the top. It should be lower onto its notch
Thanks! I will take a look for this as well.
Quoted from mjs2:In the last 20 games I have had 2 balls get stuck on the magnet directly below the munchkin Playfiled drop hole during multi ball. M
Quoted from Rager170:I have an issue once in a while where my ball gets stuck under the munchkin playfield. I cant see what it gets hung up on. A little rocking of the machine back and forth sets it free... Anyone have any ideas?
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Same here. I just nudge it out. It frustrates my 5 year old though as he’s not strong enough to nudge it out. Happens fairly frequently.
This was happening to me as well. The cause was kind of rare. There is a small piece of mylar underneath the munchkin hole - in my case a corner of it was lifting and sticking straight up some and would block balls at times. Repaired it and no problem since.
Quoted from fnosm:Probably getting stuck where the ball is returned after going through the OZ lanes. The area below the OZ lanes doesn't have mylar but where it rejoins the orbit there is mylar. This results is a 'ball trap' when a ball plunged lightly enough doesn't have enough momentum to overcome the mylar ridge. I have this happen all the time and it is an annoyance for sure. I reach up and shake the machine up near where the ball is stuck to clear it. If you can get to the side of your machine near the back box and look it is fairly easy to see the ball just sitting there waiting for your nudge to get it rolling again.
I have seen a fix for this (probably in this thread) where mylar was applied below the OZ lanes area, effectively eliminating the lip. It looks like it would be difficult to do a nice job of this without one of those craft cutters. BTW if someone is willing to do make some mylar that fits this area, count me as your first customer.
I thought it was the mylar edge, but mine is perfect.
Its true that a failed mylar would do this.
But in most cases it's a slipped rubber.
It's the rubber to the left of the mylar, and up a little to the left.
It's a little hidden, and hard to notice unless you know what you are looking at.
It slips up off its notch.
This makes a little corner that the ball can rest in.
Action from the sling does it.
I have had to slip it back down a couple times now.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I thought it was the mylar edge, but mine is perfect.
Its true that a failed mylar would do this.
But in most cases it's a slipped rubber.
It's the rubber to the left of the mylar, and up a little to the left.
It's a little hidden, and hard to notice unless you know what you are looking at.
It slips up off its notch.
This makes a little corner that the ball can rest in.
Action from the sling does it.
I have had to slip it back down a couple times now.
I will check this tonight. Thanks for the tip.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I’d like to make a switch controlled illuminated winkie target. I’ve got all the parts I think I need but, being more of a visual artist than an electronics tech, need some wiring advice. I’m thinking I make a molex splitter to tap into the 12v from the castle spotlight. After that, I’m thinking that the neutral wire goes to one leg of the new bulb socket while the positive wire goes through the micro switch and then to the other leg of the new lamp socket. Could someone please confirm or correct my wiring logic? Also, is there any need for a diode on the switch wiring? I’m thinking not but am unsure.
Never mind. I decided to trust my own thinking. What I described works.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Never mind. I decided to trust my own thinking. What I described works.
That wiring will work if you are adding a new switch somewhere and you are using a 12V LED or bulb, where/how do you plan to install the new switch?
Quoted from bobukcat:That wiring will work if you are adding a new switch somewhere and you are using a 12V LED or bulb, where/how do you plan to install the new switch?
Thanks, already done. I got longer #2 screws and mounted a secondary micro switch to the same mount as the factory drop target switch.
This was the last step in my post-2.0 conversion to get my lighting all modded. I went full diy on trough lighting, stadium lighting, balloon pop and winky target. I pulled off the spotlights and other stuff I experimented with. I just really didn’t like the uneven hot spots and visual obstruction of the spots and such.
I put the stadium lights on three separate controllers (1 for the rear, 1 for the sides and 1 for the trough) to control color and brightness independently. I also stopped the right side stadium lights short of the huts to avoid over lighting that area, especially the hut roofs. I’m happy with the results. (The rear of the game actually doesn’t look that blue/purple in person. That’s an odd artifact of the photo.)
I can now play in a dark room!
459AB344-716E-4E0A-B78D-8B3C29BA6A09 (resized).jpegQuoted from Rager170:I have an issue once in a while where my ball gets stuck under the munchkin playfield. I cant see what it gets hung up on. A little rocking of the machine back and forth sets it free... Anyone have any ideas?
Mine does this when the balls get a little magnetized. Replacing the balls seems to help.
I am a newer woz owner, got a ECLE edition in a trade deal about a month ago..
Anyone have the issue with the monkey not dropping the ball in the castle? With the original set of balls only 1 of the 5 balls would fall without me having to double flip the flippers for the mag to drop the ball. After checking all the switches I replaced the balls, 4 of the 5 balls would drop properly. I am using carbon core balls and now its happening more frequently.. didn't take long. Guess my monkey mag core is a little to strong/polarized..?
I ran across a thread mentioning placing electrical tape on the mag?
Quoted from drained:I am a newer woz owner, got a ECLE edition in a trade deal about a month ago..
Anyone have the issue with the monkey not dropping the ball in the castle? With the original set of balls only 1 of the 5 balls would fall without me having to double flip the flippers for the mag to drop the ball. After checking all the switches I replaced the balls, 4 of the 5 balls would drop properly. I am using carbon core balls and now its happening more frequently.. didn't take long. Guess my monkey mag core is a little to strong/polarized..?
I ran across a thread mentioning placing electrical tape on the mag?
You can de-magnetize balls by heating in an oven at 350-400 degrees for 45 mins.
Let them cool naturally.
Quoted from pinballinreno:You can magnetize balls by heating in an oven at 350-400 degrees for 45 mins.
Let them cool naturally.
What a great trick! I’ll have to give this a try next time I get sticky balls...pinballs, that is. 
Quoted from drained:I am a newer woz owner, got a ECLE edition in a trade deal about a month ago..
Anyone have the issue with the monkey not dropping the ball in the castle? With the original set of balls only 1 of the 5 balls would fall without me having to double flip the flippers for the mag to drop the ball. After checking all the switches I replaced the balls, 4 of the 5 balls would drop properly. I am using carbon core balls and now its happening more frequently.. didn't take long. Guess my monkey mag core is a little to strong/polarized..?
I ran across a thread mentioning placing electrical tape on the mag?
That’s what I did. Worked faultlessly now for months
Quoted from pinballinreno:You can de-magnetize balls by heating in an oven at 350-400 degrees for 45 mins.
Let them cool naturally.
Wow! Never knew that.
Quoted from pinballinreno:You can de-magnetize balls by heating in an oven at 350-400 degrees for 45 mins.
Let them cool naturally.
Wow really? Thats pretty awesome to know then...
Quoted from Rager170:Wow really? Thats pretty awesome to know then...
The "curie temperature" to lose all magnetism is around 1060 degrees (cook on bbq for 25 mins over direct coals).
But magnetism drops off sharply at 212 degrees (boiling water for 15mins).
350-400 degrees yields good results for pinball.
Practically all magnetism is gone.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The "curie temperature" to lose all magnetism is around 1060 degrees (cook on bbq for 25 mins over direct coals).
But magnetism drops off sharply at 212 degrees (boiling water for 15mins).
350-400 degrees yields good results for pinball.
Practically all magnetism is gone.
Great info! You have just made many people's day!
Quoted from Rager170:Im having a problem with my Winkie Target going down when it is supposed to. I can hear it clicking as the coil is firing but it doesnt drop. I feel like it happens on and off.
Any help is appreciated.
Can you confirm the coil is actually firing? Perhaps try in coil test mode with the playfield up so you can see.
If so, then it is likely something mechanical. Check it over and see if anything is catching. Is the spring intact? Etc.
Quoted from Nokoro:Can you confirm the coil is actually firing? Perhaps try in coil test mode with the playfield up so you can see.
If so, then it is likely something mechanical. Check it over and see if anything is catching. Is the spring intact? Etc.
Yea its firing. I can hear it clicking when its trying to lower the target during game play. During test, I can hear it firing as well.
The spring is attached because it goes down just fine when playing and the ball hits it. Its only when the game tries to lower it with a coil that it doesnt go down as it should.
To be honest, im not sure when the target is supposed to go down on its own haha. Its not even a big issue.. I dont think.
Quoted from Rager170:Yea its firing. I can hear it clicking when its trying to lower the target during game play. During test, I can hear it firing as well.
The spring is attached because it goes down just fine when playing and the ball hits it. Its only when the game tries to lower it with a coil that it doesnt go down as it should.
To be honest, im not sure when the target is supposed to go down on its own haha. Its not even a big issue.. I dont think.
Ok. Next make sure it raises and goes down on its own in coil test mode. If it doesn’t go down in coil test mode, but the coil is definitely firing, then there is something wrong with the mechanical connection. I believe the coil triggers a little arm that pushes the drop target back causing it to fall, but I can’t look right now to make sure. You should be able to see the mechanism.
Quoted from Nokoro:Ok. Next make sure it raises and goes down on its own in coil test mode. If it doesn’t go down in coil test mode, but the coil is definitely firing, then there is something wrong with the mechanical connection. I believe the coil triggers a little arm that pushes the drop target back causing it to fall, but I can’t look right now to make sure. You should be able to see the mechanism.
Yup, thats what happens. I havent had a chance to really look at it. Wasnt sure if anyone had this issue in the past.
Thanks for the help...
Quoted from Rager170:Im having a problem with my Winkie Target going down when it is supposed to. I can hear it clicking as the coil is firing but it doesnt drop. I feel like it happens on and off.
Any help is appreciated.
Check the switch alignment.
Check the screws on the switch.
Check the spring.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The "curie temperature" to lose all magnetism is around 1060 degrees (cook on bbq for 25 mins over direct coals).
Practically all magnetism is gone.
I made a trial today.
Had 4 balls severely magnetized.
20 min in an aluminium sheet in the embers in the stove.
Balls are completely normal now except one thing..
IMG-20191220-WA0000 (resized).jpegQuoted from BENETNATH:I made a trial today.
Had 4 balls severely magnetized.
20 min in an aluminium sheet in the embers in the stove.
Balls are completely normal now except one thing..[quoted image]
That is cool! Are you gonna start making these ? I'll take a set.
Quoted from fnosm:That is cool! Are you gonna start making these ? I'll take a set.
As long as it's winter, production can go smoothly ^^
Quoted from BENETNATH:I made a trial today.
Had 4 balls severely magnetized.
20 min in an aluminium sheet in the embers in the stove.
Balls are completely normal now except one thing..[quoted image]
Clean/dewax them before cooking, or the wax and grease will get dark.
Degrease them and Run them in a tumbler
They will shine up. They're steel.
A little experimentation with time and temperature.
I just bake them at 350f for 30 mins after cleaning with brake cleaner and lacquer thinner to dewax them.
Then run them thru my vibratory tumbler for 3 days.
They come out fine.
I did the ball cooking last night, grabbed my rather large collection of magnitized balls out of the closet, worked great. Very happy with this solution, saving $$, the balls were in great condition physically. Mine came out looking like how they went in.. but I tend to rarely use wax.
Quoted from billycrna:Any thoughts?
W10 LED board failed. ( if you don't have the 2.0 LED boards. )
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:W10 LED board failed. ( if you don't have the 2.0 LED boards. )
LTG : )
Before I order a new one, Could this be a fuse? Also, I just received and replaced the single LED under the cowardly Lion rollover and the new LED is not the same color as the rest of the play field. Is that just the way it is, or is there something that I need to do? thank you!
Quoted from billycrna:Could this be a fuse?
No.
W10 is the end of the data chain. If the LED board before it works. Then W10 is bad.
Quoted from billycrna:I just received and replaced the single LED under the cowardly Lion rollover and the new LED is not the same color as the rest of the play field.
Could be an issue with the data harness or loose connector on the LED board. Or bad new board ?
LTG : )
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