(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

9 years ago


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  • 15,243 posts
  • 751 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by meSz
  • Topic is favorited by 331 Pinsiders

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12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 15,243 posts in this topic. You are on page 191 of 305.
#9501 4 years ago

Gas line for remote controlled cars or planes. Also check aquarium stores, used for air hoses, etc. Cheap, grab a few pieces close to what you think will fit.

LTG : )

#9503 4 years ago

Like new ECLE for sale open to offers, cheers

#9504 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Gas line for remote controlled cars or planes. Also check aquarium stores, used for air hoses, etc. Cheap, grab a few pieces close to what you think will fit.
LTG : )

Home depot has vinyl tubing...

#9505 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Just for you I opened my WOZ up and took a picture!
Edit: And the white things in the picture are zip ties.
[quoted image]

he is not alone, my 2014 Proto has the same "black thing"

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#9506 4 years ago

THANKS a lot for the effort.
That's was i was planning. tube and zip !

#9507 4 years ago

I have that black thing instead of tubing. What’s the purpose of it and how is the tubing an improvement. My monkey works fine............ at the moment!!

#9508 4 years ago

the purpose is to create a link between the motor shaft and the spiral rod but with some smoothness
is your black thing works well, great. Mine, even after tightening the 4 screws, doesn't transmit the rotation of the motor to the rod, therefore monkey stays immobile.

#9509 4 years ago

I believe they were having problems with the black link slipping even after tightening when the motor turned and the clear tubing provides a better frictional fit for the link.

#9510 4 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

I have that black thing instead of tubing. What’s the purpose of it and how is the tubing an improvement. My monkey works fine............ at the moment!!

The black neoprene will strip out ultimately.

When it does, a simple effective repair that's factory authorized is in order.

A piece if vinyl tubing and 2 nylon ties.

Its the way the factory installs it now.

#9511 4 years ago

Cool. Thanks all. Seems simple enough. We don’t mind those fixes

#9512 4 years ago

One of the motors for my castle doors has gone bad, it's locked up and can't be turned by hand. The manual lists a part number (23-5006-00) and I guess I can order it from JJP but curious if anyone else has had to replace one and possibly found it elsewhere??

#9513 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

One of the motors for my castle doors has gone bad, it's locked up and can't be turned by hand. The manual lists a part number (23-5006-00) and I guess I can order it from JJP but curious if anyone else has had to replace one and possibly found it elsewhere??

The new motors from JJP are pretty good and were a good price. I bought a few awhile back.

One thing to note.

When adjusting the height of the doors, the right one should be 1/2 to 3/4 mm lower than the left

Its taken me a long time to figure this out.

It has to do with the latch assembly favoring the left side.

There is a tiny amount is slop in it. Lowering the right door fixes it really well.

Get some extra screws for the doors and shafts when you order.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-castle-doors-not-closing-fully

#9514 4 years ago

Im pretty sure mine, made in 2016, has the black piece as well..

#9515 4 years ago

Just about the potential issues with undersized power supply or fuse story, shall I fear that with my June 2014 model?

#9516 4 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Just about the potential issues with undersized power supply or fuse story, shall I fear that with my June 2014 model?

My game is older than that and its just fine.

#9517 4 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Just about the potential issues with undersized power supply or fuse story, shall I fear that with my June 2014 model?

Mine is 8/14 and while I had a lot of problems the 1st year the later years have been OK. I imagine any common problems with your machine have been sorted out already.

#9518 4 years ago

Thanks to all helpers there. I really appreciate

#9519 4 years ago

Annnnddd. fixed!!

Was a good working session with my son and now the monkey is flying as an angel.
2.1 sec for each travel, robust and steady.

I'm so happy to have this fixed.
The black plastic was completely dead on the rod side, I get why It was no longer able to move the rod.

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#9520 4 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Annnnddd. fixed!!
Was a good working session with my son and now the monkey is flying as an angel.
2.1 sec for each travel, robust and steady.
I'm so happy to have this fixed.
The black plastic was completely dead on the rod side, I get why It was no longer able to move the rod.[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! Congrats.

#9521 4 years ago

I get this when I turn on game... Any ideas

Thanks in advance.

Mike

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#9522 4 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

I get this when I turn on game... Any ideas
Thanks in advance.
Mike[quoted image]

Try resetting the mainboard.
Looks like a failed boot.

Also try unplugging game from the wall, hit the power switch a couple times.

Replug into the wall, flip power switch and see what happens.

#9523 4 years ago

You could try to full reinstall with the latest rom burnt on a USB key and boot with the key inside..

#9524 4 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

You could try to full reinstall with the latest rom burnt on a USB key and boot with the key inside..

Looks like a low power start up.

Rebooting should fix it unless there is a problem

#9525 4 years ago

ok - could not find reset button so i pulled the plug and hit power with a few times, plugged back in and system went through a bunch of code and game booted up. Played a game - turned it off, waited about 5 min, turned back on - went to Jersey Jack screen - then a green screen where it loaded files(about 7 lines of code) then straight to the dancing scarecrow. first day with the machine so is this what's is supposed to do?

Thanks for the help so far.

M

#9526 4 years ago

Yes, it should just display the loading of files and directly to scarecrow

Jjp booting screen at first.

#9527 4 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

ok - could not find reset button so i pulled the plug and hit power with a few times, plugged back in and system went through a bunch of code and game booted up. Played a game - turned it off, waited about 5 min, turned back on - went to Jersey Jack screen - then a green screen where it loaded files(about 7 lines of code) then straight to the dancing scarecrow. first day with the machine so is this what's is supposed to do?
Thanks for the help so far.
M

Seems ok.

Sometimes if the power from the wall is a little low, you get a weak startup.

It doesnt happen very often.
But I have had it happen 2 or 3 times in 5 years.

This is normal.

Remember its s PC.
Let it boot fully.

Don't keep power failing it when it's trying to start.

Wait 30 seconds before trying to restart.

Go slow with it.

#9528 4 years ago

Appreciate the quick reply’s all.

#9529 4 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

I get this when I turn on game... Any ideas
Thanks in advance.
Mike[quoted image]

This happens to mine sometimes when my nine year old and his buddies have been playing unsupervised. I always suspect a mid-game frustration, too quick toggle of the power switch in an attempt to start over. Sometimes I have to do a full reinstall of the operating system to get it back in order. Sometimes I’m lucky and a few slow power cycles does the trick.

#9530 4 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

This happens to mine sometimes when my nine year old and his buddies have been playing unsupervised. I always suspect a mid-game frustration, too quick toggle of the power switch in an attempt to start over. Sometimes I have to do a full reinstall of the operating system to get it back in order. Sometimes I’m lucky and a few slow power cycles does the trick.

Enable slow restart maybe.
Then you can kill a game after ball one finishes by holding the start button in.

#9531 4 years ago

Just got back home - turned it back on and got the same error message.

#9532 4 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Just got back home - turned it back on and got the same error message.

Check power cord isnt loose.
Don't plug into an extention cord.

Its low power related.

#9533 4 years ago

Checked all connections to and in silver box - redid power plug and confirmed its directly into the wall... started game and good to go for now.

#9534 4 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Checked all connections to and in silver box - redid power plug and confirmed its directly into the wall... started game and good to go for now.

I have low power on my street.
I have added variacs to some of my problem games.

#9535 4 years ago

This is what the living room looks like when there are multiple projects occurring at the same time including installing a PinWoofer and decorating the Christmas tree.

WoZ is coming along beautifully. 2.0 lights and PinStadiums are huge for the eye appeal and the audio now matches. Only thing to caution would be placement of the new 2.0 lighting power box - it didn’t allow for the larger sized speaker that came with the PinWoofer kit so had to move the box.

Now, both WoZ and JJPOTC are running PinWoofer audio and sound amazing. Shout out to Dan for assisting me on the weekend. Appreciate!

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#9536 4 years ago

Monitor on my Woz stopped working with Intermittent power flickering but no picture. Replaced both boards on the back of the monitor and now the power seems to be working as it’s staying on constant but still no picture. Any ideas what might be the next step to try figuring out what the problem is?

#9537 4 years ago
Quoted from Vans:

Any ideas what might be the next step to try figuring out what the problem is?

Have you tried a different monitor to be sure it's getting signal.

If it is, I'd get a new monitor and be done with it.

LTG : )

#9538 4 years ago
Quoted from Vans:

Monitor on my Woz stopped working with Intermittent power flickering but no picture. Replaced both boards on the back of the monitor and now the power seems to be working as it’s staying on constant but still no picture. Any ideas what might be the next step to try figuring out what the problem is?

Pull it out see if it boots off a PC or laptop.

#9539 4 years ago

just got WOZ ECLE. this game rocks. I really enjoy it. happy to join the club.

whats most awesome is, this is the FIRST pinball game my kids really are attracted to. it seems like the soundtrack and lights really make them excited to play. finally, a pin my kids will play with me for hours. They will always remember playing WOZ.

so very impressed with the build quality and feel of the game. jjp really builds sturdy pins; Very sturdy. i have a Wonka as well, and i am thrilled with that.

what is amazing is that WOZ is actually a 2012 machine. it seems like it was released yesterday. while the callouts get pretty repetitive, the game still has MUCHO staying power in my home collection. this game is not going anywhere.

#9540 4 years ago
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:

just got WOZ ECLE. this game rocks. I really enjoy it. happy to join the club.

Congrats! yeah, the game is great with the kiddos. been slowly dialing mine in for 3 years now and it actually keeps getting better and better. Not bored yet and neither are the kids - although they are more attracted to Wonka right now b/c it's the new one in our household. Have fun!

#9541 4 years ago
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:

just got WOZ ECLE. this game rocks. I really enjoy it. happy to join the club.
whats most awesome is, this is the FIRST pinball game my kids really are attracted to. it seems like the soundtrack and lights really make them excited to play. finally, a pin my kids will play with me for hours. They will always remember playing WOZ.
so very impressed with the build quality and feel of the game. jjp really builds sturdy pins; Very sturdy. i have a Wonka as well, and i am thrilled with that.
what is amazing is that WOZ is actually a 2012 machine. it seems like it was released yesterday. while the callouts get pretty repetitive, the game still has MUCHO staying power in my home collection. this game is not going anywhere.

Nice pick up. The ECLE is the best version.

Any pics??

You gotta show it off!

#9542 4 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

he is not alone, my 2014 Proto has the same "black thing"
[quoted image]

Looks like a flexible shaft coupler. You never want a hard connectionon on a ball screw and motor shadt because they can never be completely aligned. It will eventually destroy they motor bearings.

#9543 4 years ago

My WOZ was acting a bit funny today. The coils seem a bit weaker than normal. In fact. The ball kickup can't kick the ball up on the first try. I raised the coil strength and its working again. Flippers seem a bit weaker.

But just a bit, and the more I get into a game, the better it seems. Been getting a bunch of random stuck switches lately, but that may just be a coincidence.

#9544 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

My WOZ was acting a bit funny today. The coils seem a bit weaker than normal. In fact. The ball kickup can't kick the ball up on the first try. I raised the coil strength and its working again. Flippers seem a bit weaker.
But just a bit, and the more I get into a game, the better it seems. Been getting a bunch of random stuck switches lately, but that may just be a coincidence.

Wall power is probably a bit low for awhile.

As wall power changes the crystal ball VUK is the most noticable.

It can go from taking 3 or 4 tries to get up onto the wireform to blowing the ball across the game into the right outlane.

Unregulated power supplies do this...

#9545 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Wall power is probably a bit low for awhile.
As wall power changes the crystal ball VUK is the most noticable.
It can go from taking 3 or 4 tries to get up onto the wireform to blowing the ball across the game into the right outlane.
Unregulated power supplies do this...

That is happening. It occurred to me that I recently installed the most current code. I wonder if that's contributing. I'll just reset some of the coil settings and let it run for awhile.

Thanks.

#9546 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

My WOZ was acting a bit funny today. The coils seem a bit weaker than normal. In fact. The ball kickup can't kick the ball up on the first try. I raised the coil strength and its working again. Flippers seem a bit weaker.
But just a bit, and the more I get into a game, the better it seems. Been getting a bunch of random stuck switches lately, but that may just be a coincidence.

I removed the metal apron flap that holds the balls in when you elevate the playfield and I also removed with a grinder about 1/4” of metal off the apron that occasionally deflects the ball when it kicks up. Problem 100% solved.

#9547 4 years ago
Quoted from Dashmonster:

I removed the metal apron flap that holds the balls in when you elevate the playfield and I also removed with a grinder about 1/4” of metal off the apron that occasionally deflects the ball when it kicks up. Problem 100% solved.

Bending the tab and adjusting coil power is also 100% without extreme measures.

It just takes a few minutes of trial and error.

I wouldn't remove the little ball lock, swinging door.

It's pretty handy!

#9548 4 years ago

Still learning game but have Couple of questions:

1. In the last 20 games I have had 2 balls get stuck on the magnet directly below the munchkin Playfiled drop hole during multi ball. I let the game cycle through the ball search but the magnet does not stay off long enough to release them. A hard enough shake to release them also tilts the machine.

2. Left orbit does not always activate monkey when lit. - switch tests fine with ball roll over. And what do you do when it triggers the monkey but the ball never makes it to the magnet?

3. The rubber on the left out lane post split - I cannot place another one on as the lane guide is too close to the post and just splits the rubber? I picked up the machine like this so not sure if it’s meant to have a rubber on in that position - I though I saw a recent photo of that lane guide with a notch cut out but can’t relocate it - or could have been hallucinating?

Thanks in advance all.

M

#9549 4 years ago

I’d like to make a switch controlled illuminated winkie target. I’ve got all the parts I think I need but, being more of a visual artist than an electronics tech, need some wiring advice. I’m thinking I make a molex splitter to tap into the 12v from the castle spotlight. After that, I’m thinking that the neutral wire goes to one leg of the new bulb socket while the positive wire goes through the micro switch and then to the other leg of the new lamp socket. Could someone please confirm or correct my wiring logic? Also, is there any need for a diode on the switch wiring? I’m thinking not but am unsure.

#9550 4 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Still learning game but have Couple of questions:
1. In the last 20 games I have had 2 balls get stuck on the magnet directly below the munchkin Playfiled drop hole during multi ball. I let the game cycle through the ball search but the magnet does not stay off long enough to release them. A hard enough shake to release them also tilts the machine.
2. Left orbit does not always activate monkey when lit. - switch tests fine with ball roll over. And what do you do when it triggers the monkey but the ball never makes it to the magnet?
3. The rubber on the left out lane post split - I cannot place another one on as the lane guide is too close to the post and just splits the rubber? I picked up the machine like this so not sure if it’s meant to have a rubber on in that position - I though I saw a recent photo of that lane guide with a notch cut out but can’t relocate it - or could have been hallucinating?
Thanks in advance all.
M

1 I think you’re ballz have become magnetized. Try replacing them with new ones.

2. Monkey only active after both monkey switches inside the forest bumper area are hit. That will light the Dorthy rescue arrow in the back of the outer loop. Only then will the monkey come down. It doesn’t matter if he actually gets a ball or not. If the screen says Dorothy is captured your good.

3. Pretty sure the post can be removed from above. Then place a new rubber on it and replace. Mine was super tight squeeze against the outlane. You can move the post to the more open outlane position and solve this problem but then drain 2x faster. The left outlane is the bane of my existence and I wouldn’t suggest giving it any better chance to swallow more ballz. TNPLH is very very hard and I have only done it once. Then immediately drained back down the left outlane FML. Love this game

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