Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019Ok here is my dilemma. I’m sending a check to my dealer for a NIB 75th RR today. Another dealer called me and said that JJ is going to run the Emerald City WOZ this week and could get one of those for an unknown price. Both of these are 2.0 and I assume same cabinet quality. The only difference I can think of is the wood apron in the EC. #choices
Quoted from Dashmonster:Ok here is my dilemma. I’m sending a check to my dealer for a NIB 75th RR today. Another dealer called me and said that JJ is going to run the Emerald City WOZ this week and could get one of those for an unknown price. Both of these are 2.0 and I assume same cabinet quality. The only difference I can think of is the wood apron in the EC. #choices
Theres also more mods/toys in the RR, different toppers and of course the color obviously. They all play the same and toys can be added later.
It comes down to personal preference.
Quoted from Dashmonster:Ok here is my dilemma. I’m sending a check to my dealer for a NIB 75th RR today. Another dealer called me and said that JJ is going to run the Emerald City WOZ this week and could get one of those for an unknown price. Both of these are 2.0 and I assume same cabinet quality. The only difference I can think of is the wood apron in the EC. #choices
Are they just talking about the Green edition that's not really and ECLE?? I would bet it is not really an ECLE with the wood apron, limited number, direct print cab, etc. because I'm pretty sure they sold them all years ago. All the different editions can be confusing.
Quoted from Dashmonster:Ok here is my dilemma. I’m sending a check to my dealer for a NIB 75th RR today. Another dealer called me and said that JJ is going to run the Emerald City WOZ this week and could get one of those for an unknown price. Both of these are 2.0 and I assume same cabinet quality. The only difference I can think of is the wood apron in the EC. #choices
You must be referring to the green emerald edition that Automated Services sells where the trim is green but it is not an ECLE that has the wood apron and direct print cabinet.
Quoted from DCFAN:You must be referring to the green emerald edition that Automated Services sells where the trim is green but it is not an ECLE that has the wood apron and direct print cabinet.
I thought Automated didnt have any more? Someone said that recently I thought.
I have one of the Green Editions and they do come with the 2.0 boards.
I called over to JJ and got a definite NO on the ECLE rerun. So not sure why he told me that. RR in the mail though and the girls are stoked about it. Me too secretly
Quoted from Dashmonster:I called over to JJ and got a definite NO on the ECLE rerun. So not sure why he told me that. RR in the mail though and the girls are stoked about it. Me too secretly
You're in for a real treat! 
I actually feel bad for the 2.0 light owners. There is a significant difference in the pop of the lights. From experience I would pass altogether on a WoZ that was 2.0 bc so much of what I like about WoZ is that ultra bright hazy looking dream like look out of the bright rgb inserts. No other machine looks like it even other jjp bc of the new boards. I have a Hobbit right next to our woz and the WoZ absolutely smokes it in that category.
I think the board issues are also overblown. I've owner 4 WoZ at this point. All 7.5 and maybe replaced 1 board ? It just hasn't been an issue and certainly not one where I would compromise the pop of the machine.
Quoted from delt31:I actually feel bad for the 2.0 light owners. There is a significant difference in the pop of the lights. From experience I would pass altogether on a WoZ that was 2.0 bc so much of what I like about WoZ is that ultra bright hazy looking dream like look out of the bright rgb inserts. No other machine looks like it even other jjp bc of the new boards. I have a Hobbit right next to our woz and the WoZ absolutely smokes it in that category.
I think the board issues are also overblown. I've owner 4 WoZ at this point. All 7.5 and maybe replaced 1 board ? It just hasn't been an issue and certainly not one where I would compromise the pop of the machine.
I agree.
I just hope for a code fix.
Everyone will probably update to 2.0 then, including me.
But for now I can't see making a dark game darker...
Quoted from delt31:I actually feel bad for the 2.0 light owners. There is a significant difference in the pop of the lights. From experience I would pass altogether on a WoZ that was 2.0 bc so much of what I like about WoZ is that ultra bright hazy looking dream like look out of the bright rgb inserts. No other machine looks like it even other jjp bc of the new boards. I have a Hobbit right next to our woz and the WoZ absolutely smokes it in that category.
I think the board issues are also overblown. I've owner 4 WoZ at this point. All 7.5 and maybe replaced 1 board ? It just hasn't been an issue and certainly not one where I would compromise the pop of the machine.
If you are lucky enough to not have issues that's great, but if your game goes bonkers with the lights and it makes it unplayable every couple of months until you replace another board the sacrifice is worth it. Personally I don't think it's that much different post 2.0 upgrade, still a better light show than any other game I have by a long shot.
Sure hope if a GI adjustment is implemented it would work on non 2.0 systems too...
Quoted from bobukcat:If you are lucky enough to not have issues that's great, but if your game goes bonkers with the lights and it makes it unplayable every couple of months until you replace another board the sacrifice is worth it. Personally I don't think it's that much different post 2.0 upgrade, still a better light show than any other game I have by a long shot.
I am lucky enough to have never had board issues since I got it in 05. But, I have had several electrical and mechanical issues. It goes with all the toys. I would never sell mine. It is my game for leisurely playing. And, yes, it is beautiful. My problem is I see that in a lot of pinball games. RR is a maintenance game. When I get under the hood, I check it out good. Lot of moving stuff, gotta keep an eye on it.
Quoted from SantaSangre:hi, need help. My WOZLE has a problem with the LED Boards (7,5 Volt, non-buffered). When they must display pure white, is flickering. All other colors are fine. Help!!!
In test mode, do they all display red, green, blue correctly? If NOT, then skip over the board that is displaying color incorrectly and take that board number off the list in settings (disable)
If they ARE showing the primary colors right, you will have to just jump over each board one at a time until you find the one causing the white to flicker problem. Start at board 2, disconnect the jumper to board 3. Is the white solid? reconnect the jumper and repeat that with board 3, then 4, then 5 etc until you find the board that makes the others flicker.
Quoted from delt31:I actually feel bad for the 2.0 light owners. There is a significant difference in the pop of the lights. From experience I would pass altogether on a WoZ that was 2.0 bc so much of what I like about WoZ is that ultra bright hazy looking dream like look out of the bright rgb inserts. No other machine looks like it even other jjp bc of the new boards. I have a Hobbit right next to our woz and the WoZ absolutely smokes it in that category.
I think the board issues are also overblown. I've owner 4 WoZ at this point. All 7.5 and maybe replaced 1 board ? It just hasn't been an issue and certainly not one where I would compromise the pop of the machine.
Id take dimmer lights vs. the the higher chance of the machine not working in the future.
Also, its just GI lighting. For inserts, you can adjust the brightness.
I think I’m giving up trying to sell my old 7.5v boards as a lot. At $250 it doesn’t seem like it’s a bad price point, right? So I’m guessing that it’s something else. Maybe that the one large board that’s not working is the fish shaped one in the middle? I dunno. If there’s still no movement in the next day or so, I’m going to put them on the market here and on EBay individually to make random, single board failures easy to fix and waaaay cheaper than buying a board from JJP or buying a complete used set.
I spoke to Keith at Expo on this issue. It wouldn't surprise me that it's corrected to get back to where it was.
In the mean time my 7.5 boards were starting to act funky and I felt I had to upgrade. It's a game I'm planning to keep forever.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I think I’m giving up trying to sell my old 7.5v boards as a lot. At $250 it doesn’t seem like it’s a bad price point, right? So I’m guessing that it’s something else. Maybe that the one large board that’s not working is the fish shaped one in the middle? I dunno. If there’s still no movement in the next day or so, I’m going to put them on the market here and on EBay individually to make random, single board failures easy to fix and waaaay cheaper than buying a board from JJP or buying a complete used set.
It's not that one of the boards isn't working, but that you have the unbuffered boards. I saw 2 sales of 7.5 buffered boards sell quickly. From what I have read in this thread, the buffered boards are much more reliable than unbuffered. The replacement boards sold individually from JJP appear to be 7.5 buffered.
Quoted from bigbadmiker:It's not that one of the boards isn't working, but that you have the unbuffered boards. I saw 2 sales of 7.5 buffered boards sell quickly. From what I have read in this thread, the buffered boards are much more reliable than unbuffered. The replacement boards sold individually from JJP appear to be 7.5 buffered.
Interesting - someone else suggested that it was a buffered/unbuffered issue making buyers shy. My understanding is different regarding buffered/unbuffered boards. Both are prone to failure. JJP started with the 5v system. When problems arose, they went to a 7.5v system. When the same problems continued, they tried the buffered 7.5v boards. When the same problems continued, they went to the 2.0 system. To my understanding, the reason JJP sells the buffered 7.5v boards in their online store is simply because that is the last model that was in production. 7.5v buffered and unbuffered are fully interchangeable and compatible. Both are prone to failure (as are the original 5v boards). The bigger issue is the flawed daisy chain design of all the pre-2.0 systems that wreak havoc with everything downstream in the event of just one single diode even partially going out. Frankly, given how much work installing the 2.0 system was AND having to pay $800 for a product that resulted in a dimmer game, I wish I had bought a couple used boards myself rather than investing so heavily in a full conversion.
Quoted from TaylorVA:Bummer to hear the lights in 2.0 are dim,
Was considering the upgrade just for a brighter game, now not so sure.
Did get a reset button sent to me. Won’t have to bridge pins anymore, woohoo![quoted image]
Where did you get it, from JJP?
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I think I’m giving up trying to sell my old 7.5v boards as a lot. At $250 it doesn’t seem like it’s a bad price point, right? So I’m guessing that it’s something else. Maybe that the one large board that’s not working is the fish shaped one in the middle? I dunno. If there’s still no movement in the next day or so, I’m going to put them on the market here and on EBay individually to make random, single board failures easy to fix and waaaay cheaper than buying a board from JJP or buying a complete used set.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Interesting - someone else suggested that it was a buffered/unbuffered issue making buyers shy. My understanding is different regarding buffered/unbuffered boards. Both are prone to failure. JJP started with the 5v system. When problems arose, they went to a 7.5v system. When the same problems continued, they tried the buffered 7.5v boards. When the same problems continued, they went to the 2.0 system. To my understanding, the reason JJP sells the buffered 7.5v boards in their online store is simply because that is the last model that was in production. 7.5v buffered and unbuffered are fully interchangeable and compatible. Both are prone to failure (as are the original 5v boards). The bigger issue is the flawed daisy chain design of all the pre-2.0 systems that wreak havoc with everything downstream in the event of just one single diode even partially going out. Frankly, given how much work installing the 2.0 system was AND having to pay $800 for a product that resulted in a dimmer game, I wish I had bought a couple used boards myself rather than investing so heavily in a full conversion.
I don’t think buffered vs non-buffered would affect value. I sold my set for $300, but everything worked except one small GI board. It took a little while to sell though. I think $250 is fair given a major board is not working. I think you may just be running into an issue of there being fewer and fewer people who want the old boards as more people do the conversion or buy old sets from others. I sold mine a while ago so the number of potential purchasers was likely larger. And, if people do want to buy a full set still, many may want all of the big boards to work.
Selling the boards individually is probably not a bad idea in your case.
Quoted from PinMonk:In test mode, do they all display red, green, blue correctly? If NOT, then skip over the board that is displaying color incorrectly and take that board number off the list in settings (disable)
If they ARE showing the primary colors right, you will have to just jump over each board one at a time until you find the one causing the white to flicker problem. Start at board 2, disconnect the jumper to board 3. Is the white solid? reconnect the jumper and repeat that with board 3, then 4, then 5 etc until you find the board that makes the others flicker.
thank you for help! I think i have a problem under the Castleplayfield. The ONLY board, which has not the correct color (green when i choose red, red when i choose green ) is the little connector/Led Board Nr.30 in Manual. (located under the Spot) Why has it the reversed colors? When i change this little Board with another, the Problem is still there. Is it possible, that this little Board is also suspicious for the white flickering problem?
Quoted from SantaSangre:thank you for help! I think i have a problem under the Castleplayfield. The ONLY board, which has not the correct color (green when i choose red, red when i choose green ) is the little connector/Led Board Nr.30 in Manual. (located under the Spot) Why has it the reversed colors? When i change this little Board with another, the Problem is still there. Is it possible, that this little Board is also suspicious for the white flickering problem?
Could the wires be reversed in the connector to the little board?
Quoted from SantaSangre:thank you for help! I think i have a problem under the Castleplayfield. The ONLY board, which has not the correct color (green when i choose red, red when i choose green ) is the little connector/Led Board Nr.30 in Manual. (located under the Spot) Why has it the reversed colors? When i change this little Board with another, the Problem is still there. Is it possible, that this little Board is also suspicious for the white flickering problem?
I had to replace 2 of the little boards to fix it.
Check or replace the one just upstream from the problem board or swap them.
Very odd, but that fixed it.
Same problem, wrong color on one.
Quoted from DCFAN:Could the wires be reversed in the connector to the little board?
no, all correct
Quoted from pinballinreno:I had to replace 2 of the little boards to fix it.
Check or replace the one just upstream from the problem board or swap them.
Very odd, but that fixed it.
Same problem, wrong color on one.
i will take off the Castleplayfield tomorrow and change this Boards and Wires. I made this months before, without success, but i do it again... and let you know.
Quoted from SantaSangre:i will take off the Castleplayfield tomorrow and change this Boards and Wires. I made this months before, without success, but i do it again... and let you know.
As always with the serial system.
If the board you replaced doesnt fix it, the problem is further upstream.
Quoted from Geremy13:Hello everyone.,,,
I suppose I am happy to see this thread as well. I am guessing there were issues with the rest of the community on this game. I have not had enough time to read all posts regarding other folks opinions... which is really what I like,,, the good, the bad, the ugly...... just like to hear it straight. But I am guessing there were too many opinions that bashed it out of proportion.
Anyhow, I really like this community of people that enjoy this hobby and share all of their thoughts and ideas and experiences with various pinballs that they own or have played or want to own.
So, here I am. I am really interested in this game. I got to play it a year ago at the Louisville Expo,,, it was really cool. Since then I have purchased a Tron and a AC/DC.... I am really brand new, but have got bit. Now I think I want a WOZ.... but want to hear everybody's honest opinion.
I played it again this year, and my first impression was 'wow' this is a little dark. All of the videos that I have seen and make me want this game, and then I see it again in person and thought that the whole gameplay was darker than I remember......... As for the 'gameplay' it is hard for me to give an opinion because who can do that playing only for a few minutes after waiting in line to play......
Anyhow, What do you all think?... I mean 'Overall'. And how about price?.... I have an opportunity to purchase a Standard for about 8K, in stock and ready to ship, no waiting, no deposits, etc......
I have read about people saying that there are LE's that people are trying to sell for 7K but I can't seem to find them, so ........ just don't know.
Lastly, what is the difference between and LE (that people are dumping, but I can't find.)... and a Standard... that JJP will accept my deposit, but I have a seller right now NIB for same price.
All help appreciated. Really like the game and want honest opinions on all of the above.
My opinion would be to get the standard at the low price IF the 2.0 boards are installed. Everything else can be added.
This may be a dumb question but what is everyone's opinion of changing the balls that come from JJP initially with the game?
I know for Stern, the consensus is to get rid of them asap. I actually forgot that the factory ball were still in mine but havent noticed any heavy scratches from them.
Quoted from Rager170:This may be a dumb question but what is everyone's opinion of changing the balls that come from JJP initially with the game?
I know for Stern, the consensus is to get rid of them asap. I actually forgot that the factory ball were still in mine but havent noticed any heavy scratches from them.
Always good to inspect your balls, clean them, hold them and roll around and feel if there is any odd bumps. Doctor recommended.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Always good to inspect your balls, clean them, hold them and roll around and fell if there is any odd bumps. Doctor recommended.
lol
I’m in the middle of installing 2.0 right now... I know a lot of folks say the GI lighting is way dimmer with 2.0 kit. Just an observation (and I know nothing about LED tech), but it sure looks like the LED surface mounts are a lot smaller on the 2.0 boards than the old 7.5 boards.
Could it just be a case of the new LEDs having less light output capability (and not a software issue)?
New on left...
EEDC6B54-D69A-4721-A44D-618AA6FEA518 (resized).jpeg
Hello,
I'm considering to purchase a Woz standard but from a far away person, so i can't see it by myself.
It's a Rev 1.1 7.5V. Currently acting correctly except when one cable is moved. If it occurs, you get random blinking on certain colors.
The other issue is the monkey. The guy showed me that motor was acting correctly but told me that he did not have the correct allen key to fix the issue.
Can someone explain me potential issues on the monkey and possible pitfalls ?
I don't have any trust issue with him, so no comments on this, that's really to find what is easily solvable and what is risky.
Any specific wear i shall look after ?
Thanks to all.
Quoted from harryhoudini:The blank square should definitely be swapped with the volume controls, IMHO. Really makes it convenient to make quick adjustments. Once I had it on my POTC I had to do WOZ.
http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=57
Do you have an idea for a shooter rod? I think for the RR and ECLE (and probably YBR, I am guessing) the modfather rods are a nice fit, color wise. I was considering making a hot air balloon one or a crystal ball one but ... meh.
Our new website launched 11/1. Here is an updated link https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/pages/the-wizard-of-oz
Use this code YDH69A53QCH8 at checkout for for 5% off your first order at our new site. Valid until 2:00 pm EST Nov 6.
Quoted from BENETNATH:The other issue is the monkey. The guy showed me that motor was acting correctly but told me that he did not have the correct allen key to fix the issue.
Can someone explain me potential issues on the monkey and possible pitfalls ?
If it's an earlier game, it had a plastic looking collar/joint holding the motor to the shaft. Screws as I recall. If it's broken, use rubber tubing instead of that joint. JJP changed to rubber tubing at some point for a better flexible joint between motor and shaft.
You can see it in the manual on page C-36 item number 12. You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - WOZ - manual.
I've attached a picture of it.
LTG : )
DSC00281 (resized).JPGThanks,
That was also my conclusion.
As long as the motor is turning in both direction, that seems to be a fixable situation.
If some experts would have some time to check the picture, please find a drive link.
Thanks for your help!
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=13pVnRWmSOACtCa8xjxDNd-anpBj-D5yz
Quoted from 27dnast:I’m in the middle of installing 2.0 right now... I know a lot of folks say the GI lighting is way dimmer with 2.0 kit. Just an observation (and I know nothing about LED tech), but it sure looks like the LED surface mounts are a lot smaller on the 2.0 boards than the old 7.5 boards.
Could it just be a case of the new LEDs having less light output capability (and not a software issue)?
New on left...
That being said, I did order Pinstadiums today. Hope to remember to update you all. I like to play my games in a dark room and WoZ is just a little too dark for me. Going to give the pinstadiums a try. I know expensive compared to other options. But I thought the ability to change background colors is fun/useful and will provide multiple different experiences...
Quoted from BENETNATH:If some experts would have some time to check the picture, please find a drive link.
Remove it. Replace with rubber tubing. Model Railroaders use it all the time from motor to gear box.
LTG : )
Quoted from BENETNATH:Hello,
I'm considering to purchase a Woz standard but from a far away person, so i can't see it by myself.
It's a Rev 1.1 7.5V. Currently acting correctly except when one cable is moved. If it occurs, you get random blinking on certain colors.
The other issue is the monkey. The guy showed me that motor was acting correctly but told me that he did not have the correct allen key to fix the issue.
Can someone explain me potential issues on the monkey and possible pitfalls ?
I don't have any trust issue with him, so no comments on this, that's really to find what is easily solvable and what is risky.
Any specific wear i shall look after ?
Thanks to all.
Can you elaborate on what the issue is with the monkey ? The classics are monkey not stopping where it should or not grabbing the ball. Both are easy fixes.
Regarding the lights, there is nothing that can’t be fixed, some people sell these boards for cheap and worst case (or best actually) you can do a 2.0 upgrade that’s a permanent fix for 800$
So in the end it’s all about how much he wants for it
Quoted from SDpinballer:That being said, I did order Pinstadiums today. Hope to remember to update you all. I like to play my games in a dark room and WoZ is just a little too dark for me. Going to give the pinstadiums a try. I know expensive compared to other options. But I thought the ability to change background colors is fun/useful and will provide multiple different experiences...
Pinstadiums are a necessity in this game but make sure you don't go full power otherwise you'll completely kill the light show
Quoted from adol75:Can you elaborate on what the issue is with the monkey ? The classics are monkey not stopping where it should or not grabbing the ball. Both are easy fixes.
Regarding the lights, there is nothing that can’t be fixed, some people sell these boards for cheap and worst case (or best actually) you can do a 2.0 upgrade that’s a permanent fix for 800$
So in the end it’s all about how much he wants for it
I don't know about the monkey. It seems it's not moving at all, at least due to this lack of link between monkey and rod. There is a video in the drive folder.
About rev 1.1, has some special issue, more prone to fail? And about playfield, are there some specific part that are prone to damage?
Quoted from BENETNATH:I don't know about the monkey. It seems it's not moving at all, at least due to this lack of link between monkey and rod. There is a video in the drive folder.
About rev 1.1, has some special issue, more prone to fail? And about playfield, are there some specific part that are prone to damage?
Yes rev 1.1 lights are more prone to fail although it’s very random. Some people have no issues while others like me got a bunch of failures, enough at least to do a 2.0 upgrade for 800$ (and 15 hours of work that I actually enjoyed). Other option is to buy a set of replacement lights from someone who did the 2.0 upgrade. I sold my set for 250$ so merely the price of one board (for 10 boards and 30 small led boards)
Regarding the playfield, the top left of the munchkin playfield is a place that usually chips, the 2 VUK holes (to the castle and crystal ball) and the throne room can chip.
All is well again in the wonderful land of Oz !
- I’ve re removed the castle pf and inverted the 2 cables
- JJP sent me a new tin man board, the other one had a problem on a port
- I managed to put the rainbow rubber pieces in place without breaking them (a very stressful challenge!)
- I rotated the house til it faced the coil and it now stops at the right place
Time to melt the witch !
Quoted from adol75:Yes rev 1.1 lights are more prone to fail although it’s very random. Some people have no issues while others like me got a bunch of failures, enough at least to do a 2.0 upgrade for 800$ (and 15 hours of work that I actually enjoyed). Other option is to buy a set of replacement lights from someone who did the 2.0 upgrade. I sold my set for 250$ so merely the price of one board (for 10 boards and 30 small led boards)
Regarding the playfield, the top left of the munchkin playfield is a place that usually chips, the 2 VUK holes (to the castle and crystal ball) and the throne room can chip.
Thanks, I did not see chiping at these places.
Seems that for a bit less than 6k, it's a good deal, right?
Quoted from BENETNATH:Thanks, I did not see chiping at these places.
Seems that for a bit less than 6k, it's a good deal, right?
6k is a very good deal, I don’t think I ever saw one sell for that cheap.
Fellas, what do I have to do before I can capture Dorothy?... what is the order please?... sometimes the ball passes straight the spot in the orbit and if I’m upstairs at the Castle, I can break the door and everything but It’s useless to do a Multi Ball without Dorothy being captured, so I have to go down and start to find the spot again to capture her.
Thanks
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:Fellas, what do I have to do before I can capture Dorothy?... what is the order please?... sometimes the ball passes straight the spot in the orbit and if I’m upstairs at the Castle, I can break the door and everything but It’s useless to do a Multi Ball without Dorothy being captured, so I have to go down and start to find the spot again to capture her.
Thanks
You have to hit the two monkey targets behind the trees to make capture available.
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:Fellas, what do I have to do before I can capture Dorothy?... what is the order please?... sometimes the ball passes straight the spot in the orbit and if I’m upstairs at the Castle, I can break the door and everything but It’s useless to do a Multi Ball without Dorothy being captured, so I have to go down and start to find the spot again to capture her.
Thanks
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:Fellas, what do I have to do before I can capture Dorothy?... what is the order please?... sometimes the ball passes straight the spot in the orbit and if I’m upstairs at the Castle, I can break the door and everything but It’s useless to do a Multi Ball without Dorothy being captured, so I have to go down and start to find the spot again to capture her.
Thanks
There are 2 blue blinking targets on the left lane behind the trees. Hit them both once, they stay lit, then go the magnet under the capture Dorothy arrow.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/186?hl=dashmonster and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
New Bern, NC
Dortmund
Vaughan, ON