Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019Quoted from joseph5185:It doesn’t look like Automated has any of their “special” Emerald Cities left. However, they are listing the 2.0 light boards on their standards.
I think green is my favorite. YBR looks cool, but it’s a pretty steep price with other options out there.
Well find a nice ecle with 2.0.... Not entirely impossible.
Quoted from Dr-pin:If you order a new one, how can you be sure it comes with the new lightboards?
For example does all RR come with the new stuff, or are there things that may need to be fixed or replaced?
I just dont know here in europe, there may be so that games are stored for future sales, so you may get an "old" nib.
Or have them pop the lid. If you have a bunch of Ethernet cables going all over the place under the playfield you have 2.0
Quoted from harryhoudini:Standard is fine. Almost any of the things you can add on later. Biggest question is going to be 2.0 lighting and if you want the specific look of one of the editions. If you can find a SE with 2.0 lighting in good condition, go for it. But you can also get a green edition (from automated) new... so might be an option.
The RR toys are available from Backalley Creations. The ECLE has the cool green wood apron, on top of the color of the whole thing.
I would call Automated on the green one. I bought mine in July and I thought he had a bunch of them... But I did see them removed from the website. Was curious if maybe they were sent back to JJP for parts due to RR new release.
Quoted from joseph5185:It doesn’t look like Automated has any of their “special” Emerald Cities left. However, they are listing the 2.0 light boards on their standards.
I think green is my favorite. YBR looks cool, but it’s a pretty steep price with other options out there.
I meant to send this to you..
I would call Automated on the green one. I bought mine in July and I thought he had a bunch of them... But I did see them removed from the website. Was curious if maybe they were sent back to JJP for parts due to RR new release.
The YBR is so overpriced. Not even sure why. Standard, LE and RR all play exactly the same and are essentially the same machines except the RR has more mods inside (which can be added on your own) and a different topper and the LE just has a different topper and that wooden apron. And obviously the color differences.
Don't forget the ECLE also has the direct print cabinets instead of decals. They and a very rare few early standards are the only ones like that.
Quoted from bobukcat:Don't forget the ECLE also has the direct print cabinets instead of decals. They and a very rare few early standards are the only ones like that.
Correct. To me thats a negative as you cant replace those...
Quoted from bobukcat:Don't forget the ECLE also has the direct print cabinets instead of decals. They and a very rare few early standards are the only ones like that.
And, while it seems that people really care about that for some reason, the radcals on my RR seem much more durable and resilient than the dinged up direct print cabinet on my SE. Is it just some weird fascination with the direct print being some sort of rarity? OR am I missing an option? You said decals.. my RR definitely doesn't have just decals. Not 100% sure it is "radcal" but it's definitely a thick plastic piece that is on top of the cabinet.
Quoted from bobukcat:Don't forget the ECLE also has the direct print cabinets instead of decals. They and a very rare few early standards are the only ones like that.
I don't think all ECLE has direct right?
Direct print to me are the best. You can always see the start of decals - it's cheapens the game imo.
Quoted from delt31:I don't think all ECLE has direct right?
Direct print to me are the best. You can always see the start of decals - it's cheapens the game imo.
I believe all the actual ECLEs with the wood apron also had direct print cabinets. The RRs did not come with actual Radcals but I think that was an option you could add-on for an additional price at some point. My RR has regular decals, they look nice but as you say you can see the start of them. As for them being replaceable versus the direct print I don't really see that as a difference, if either one gets trashed the only real options are to sand the cabinet down, prep it and install new decals or skip the cab prep and slap Radcals over the top.
Quoted from delt31:I don't think all ECLE has direct right?
Direct print to me are the best. You can always see the start of decals - it's cheapens the game imo.
Thats something that has never bothered me and im pretty picky.
Interesting to see what others "see"...
Quoted from Rager170:Thats something that has never bothered me and im pretty picky.
Interesting to see what others "see"...
Well the fact that almost every game made since the late 90s (correct me if I'm wrong on that timing) has been made with decals and that every restore of those and other games have decals means that most games you look at have them so it's the norm. If every cabinet were direct printed the decals would stick out more. They don't bother me but I can see the argument for the direct print version. I just think we're lucky that high-quality decals for restorations exists or there would be a lot more ugly cabinets out there with no real remedy available.
My ECLEWOZ has a direct print cab that's clearcoated.
It's really nice.
It has never been moved since I bought it lol.
As far as dinging up the cab?
Ummm...please dont.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:My standard edition (27/1000) has a clear coated cabinet. Does that mean it has a printed cab as opposed to decals?
Does anyone know how many standards made it out with the clear coated cabinet?
The very early few used the same cab as the LE's.
So maybe yes!
Quoted from harryhoudini:Wow, so there are 3 different cabinet "finishes" that exist? Direct painted, decals and "radcals" ?
Yep.
Radcals are really cool looking.
It was an expensive option.
Direct print standards are the rarest of the bunch lol.
Quoted from joseph5185:How many just have a standard and still love it?
What is the biggest omission?
I have a standard and don’t regret it at all. I love it. Toys can be added at will. All of the differences between JJP models are purely cosmetic (aside from 2.0 boards and the omission of the YBR monkey). I personally do not like any of the colored editions red, green or yellow. To each their own. It’s not like a Stern where different model levels actually affect gameplay.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yep.
Radcals are really cool looking.
It was an expensive option.
Direct print standards are the rarest of the bunch lol.
I have a direct print and my buddy has one too (Eric A)...When he unboxed his he was in Awe ....The Direct prints are Gorgeous and much better than the Radcals, which are stunning as well.
Quoted from 3pinballs:I have a direct print and my buddy has one too (Eric A)...When he unboxed his he was in Awe ....The Direct prints are Gorgeous and much better than the Radcals, which are stunning as well.
Agreed. The direct-print cleared cabinets JJP did for ECLE are amazing. Spooky is doing them as an option, calling it the "butter cabinet."
JJP should make direct-print, clearcoated cabinets the standard for the CE level of their machines. They'd sell out since there's no way to approximate it even, short of spending thousands of dollars.
Quoted from PinMonk:Agreed. The direct-print cleared cabinets JJP did for ECLE are amazing. Spooky is doing them as an option, calling it the "butter cabinet."
JJP should make direct-print, clearcoated cabinets the standard for the CE level of their machines. They'd sell out since there's no way to approximate it even, short of spending thousands of dollars.
I agree that the clear coated direct print cabinets are a nice cosmetic touch. Fun fact: some first run standard editions (mine included) have that same cleared direct print cabinet.
I need help with the rotating house, I must have done something wrong when I removed or re installed the munchkin playfield.
The house never gets in the right position when it turns. I tried adjusting the delay in the settings, and get it right once, but once the house rotates again it stops at a random place.
Any idea ?
Quoted from pinheadpierre:It’s not like a Stern where different model levels actually affect gameplay.
Couldn't be more true with BK:SOR.
I seemed to have sparked this thread. I appreciate all the feedback and I'm glad the Standard plays great!
Quoted from jkashani:Do the original light boards inevitably fail? Is there any date build that afterward has the more reliable light boards? If you have to replace the light boards how much work is it?
IIRC, it is a fair amount of work and I think it's about a 50/50 chance if they will fail or not. I would assume less likely in a HUO. harryhoudini can speak to this much more in depth than I can as I believe he has done it.
Quoted from jkashani:Do the original light boards inevitably fail? Is there any date build that afterward has the more reliable light boards? If you have to replace the light boards how much work is it?
Inevitably no, but they do fail, at random intervals on random games. It can be a cheap, 30$ painless fix if a small board dies, or a quick expensive, 250$ one if a big board dies. Replacing them is a 5mn job litterally.
You can score a complete set of boards for around 250$ from someone who switched to a 2.0 light kit (I sold mine 3 days ago).
Games built after December 2016 come standard with the 2.0 board.
As to replacing the complete light kit, it's around 15 hours of real work, it's easier than it looks and very satisfying once done, I would go for that option, and the added peace of mind of not worrying about your game everytime you turn it on, is probably priceless.
Quoted from adol75:I need help with the rotating house, I must have done something wrong when I removed or re installed the munchkin playfield.
The house never gets in the right position when it turns. I tried adjusting the delay in the settings, and get it right once, but once the house rotates again it stops at a random place.
Any idea ?
See if this thread helps. It's sort of a "known" issue in that it's a bit of a pain to configure exactly. My witch legs still only flop down halfway. It's a bit finicky like adjusting the castle doors or the witch strike plate.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-spinning-house-calibration-problem
I'm far from the 2.0 lighting expert, but I've done a fair bit of research and replacing of boards in both an original 5v set and the 2.0. If you don't want to spend the time or money doing the 2.0 kit now on a game with the older boards, be prepared to pay for and replace boards. Even if you buy a spare set, if a large board dies and you replace it and it dies again (which seems like it is inevitable that the boards will die) the cost is going to be prohibitive and JJP will be less and less able to support the older boards. We're talking like $150 or something for the larger boards, if they are still available. I sold my SE to get a RR and specifically made sure it had the 2.0 boards. Even if the price were $800 cheaper that still means a weekend doing an install. But if you are buying a game on a good deal with older boards then doing the upgrade at some point might be worth it and you can sell the old boards for something.
If you're handy then doing the 2.0 install seems like a cakewalk, if nothing but time consuming.
I just released a Wizard Of Oz backbox facelift kit if you are interested in dressing up the front of your backbox.
ITEM DESCRIPTION
Dress up the front of your Wizard Of Oz machine by filling in the empty space on the top of the backbox with this 3 dimensional Wizard Of Oz sign.
Also included in this kit is a 3 dimensional "Somewhere over the Rainbow" sign to dress up the empty unused space below the backbox.
Easy installation on both items, just use the included double stick tape, no tools needed. Can be removed at anytime to restore the original condition.
20191025_171941 (resized).jpg20191025_171123 (resized).jpg20191025_171116 (resized).jpgQuoted from adol75:So that’s how JJP puts all these little rubber pieces without breaking them ! They come with a guide.[quoted image]
Ha! That’s awesome. That would have saved me some time. Can you buy them from their website? I might have to get a few spares.
Quoted from adol75:So that’s how JJP puts all these little rubber pieces without breaking them ! They come with a guide.[quoted image]
Hum. I thought those were two different models. One with the long nub and one without. POTC has spots that have the long nubs still on them.
To get them on easy, just lick them and twist while pushing 
My WOZ is a standard with A direct print cabinet, built July 18, 2013. The direct print is nice and the decals are okay, just done poorly. I wish they would could figure out how to do a corner, it really isn’t that difficult and would really improve on the look of their cabinets. I have an early light board set and it has been solid for about 4 years. Getting there was a PITA, but once stabilized it has been solid. Such an amazing game
7BAE33D9-D93D-4E5F-AF99-AE458E9385F1 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Nokoro:Ha! That’s awesome. That would have saved me some time. Can you buy them from their website? I might have to get a few spares.
I sent an email to Shannan, she was sending me some other parts so she added a few for free, which I find to be very nice.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Hum. I thought those were two different models. One with the long nub and one without. POTC has spots that have the long nubs still on them.
To get them on easy, just lick them and twist while pushing
I guess they cut them shorter for WOZ, I’ll try and lick them I’d do anything not to break them again.
Quoted from psexton:I just released a Wizard Of Oz backbox facelift kit if you are interested in dressing up the front of your backbox.
ITEM DESCRIPTION
Dress up the front of your Wizard Of Oz machine by filling in the empty space on the top of the backbox with this 3 dimensional Wizard Of Oz sign.
Also included in this kit is a 3 dimensional "Somewhere over the Rainbow" sign to dress up the empty unused space below the backbox.
Easy installation on both items, just use the included double stick tape, no tools needed. Can be removed at anytime to restore the original condition.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1223-pinball-forever/02976-wizard-of-oz-backbox-facelift-kit[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great Idea+!!!+
Quoted from Pinkitten:I added these little plastic split rail fence pieces along the shooter lane with the corn field art behind them. The corn would look good too on either side of the lane, I think![quoted image][quoted image]
Almost like you read my mind. Except we modeled them after the ones in the movie.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wizard-of-oz-corn-fields-by-pmc#post-5266792
Quoted from jkashani:Does having older light boards in a woz that are working devalue the sale? There seems to be a big emphasis on the light boards when people are selling or buying a woz.
Depends on what the buyer knows
But yes. A game with non 2.0 boards is worth less. How much? Maybe $800-1000k less I'd say.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Depends on what the buyer knows
But yes. A game with non 2.0 boards is worth less. How much? Maybe $800-1000k less I'd say.
Id say that depends on the buyer. Myself, I would never want to do the work to replace all of that. When I went to buy a WOZ, anything other than the 2.0 boards was a no sale.
Quoted from Rager170:Id say that depends on the buyer. Myself, I would never want to do the work to replace all of that. When I went to buy a WOZ, anything other than the 2.0 boards was a no sale.
Oh for sure.
I agree with the general 2.0 sentiment.
One of the "nice" things about YBR, is that it's 2.0.
I like it .. if it wasn't so much more expensive than others out there, I would be perfectly fine with owning.
There are new RR's from the last run still available. $2,000 cheaper that YBR and has the flying monkey.
Quoted from Hoss_Coog:I found several nice HUO WOZ RR's, but they didn't have the 2.0 boards. Was able to snag one of the new RR's that JJP produced in the last run. Anything less than 2.0 boards is a deal killer.
I have a RR, bought new in 2014, 7.5 boards, no issues. Mine is #34, the very first run. I can't help but question the new ones.
Quoted from HIPPY:I have a RR, bought new in 2014, 7.5 boards, no issues. Mine is #34, the very first run. I can't help but question the new ones.
Same here 2015 RR with 7.5 and no issues. I heard the 2.0 lighting is dimmer, no thanks. Had to replace the Rainbow board, wasn’t a big deal at all. There will be plenty of used 7.5 boards available for years to come if needed. Love my WOZ, still the prettiest game in the lineup
Quoted from darkryder:Same here 2015 RR with 7.5 and no issues. I heard the 2.0 lighting is dimmer, no thanks. Had to replace the Rainbow board, wasn’t a big deal at all. There will be plenty of used 7.5 boards available for years to come if needed. Love my WOZ, still the prettiest game in the lineup
I've had both and I noticed that there were dimmer lights. Not sure if it is just case by case but I noticed the Shoot Again light was dimmer. I don't know why I noticed that one specifically, I don't know if that one specifically has an issue but I never did anything about it. I did have a lot of GI boards that were either out or completely the wrong color or shade that I had to replace in the 2.0 system I got on my used RR, so I wouldn't say the 2.0 system is without fault but JJP folk who replied to me seemed to indicate that the 2.0 system has a lot less issues. I don't know if my case was special but $5 for a GI board isn't that hard to swallow, although I bought like 20 of them.
Quoted from darkryder:Same here 2015 RR with 7.5 and no issues. I heard the 2.0 lighting is dimmer, no thanks. Had to replace the Rainbow board, wasn’t a big deal at all. There will be plenty of used 7.5 boards available for years to come if needed. Love my WOZ, still the prettiest game in the lineup
I dont like the over all dimness of the 2.0 system.
I really wish that they would issue a code fix for it.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I dont like the over all dimness of the 2.0 system.
I really wish that they would issue a code fix for it.
They definitely need a GI adjustment in the menus.
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