(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

9 years ago


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  • 751 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by meSz
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There are 15,243 posts in this topic. You are on page 184 of 305.
#9151 4 years ago

Can the base of the corn mod be done in black to match the rail?

#9152 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Can the base of the corn mod be done in black to match the rail?

Yup. Can also make it a perfect rectangle so it is almost hidden.

#9153 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yup. Can also make it a perfect rectangle so it is almost hidden.

Yea, thats what I am looking for.. the base to be hidden basically.

#9154 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yup. Can also make it a perfect rectangle so it is almost hidden.

Can you also please tell me how many inches long they are? I dont have a RR, so I am curious how far up the rail they can go or if I would need two depending.
I will need to measure at home also to see for myself how I would want it to sit.

#9155 4 years ago

6" in length. But can make them custom lengths to fit any area you want.

#9156 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

6" in length. But can make them custom lengths to fit any area you want.

Ok great. Let me take a look when I have a chance and I will be in touch.

#9157 4 years ago

I have another problem with my 2.0 lights.
The Search light on the castle playfield stays white when it should be green.
I thought there was a problem with his data cable but when it rolls colors with the rest of the playfield (on ball drains) it turns to the right color perfectly synced with all the other lights.

Could it be a software bug ? I’m still on 6.61, I didnt see any reason to update the code but this could be one.

#9158 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I have another problem with my 2.0 lights.
The Search light on the castle playfield stays white when it should be green.
I thought there was a problem with his data cable but when it rolls colors with the rest of the playfield (on ball drains) it turns to the right color perfectly synced with all the other lights.
Could it be a software bug ? I’m still on 6.61, I didnt see any reason to update the code but this could be one.

Go to the tests for the LEDs and roll through the colors and see what happens.

#9159 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I have another problem with my 2.0 lights.
The Search light on the castle playfield stays white when it should be green.
I thought there was a problem with his data cable but when it rolls colors with the rest of the playfield (on ball drains) it turns to the right color perfectly synced with all the other lights.
Could it be a software bug ? I’m still on 6.61, I didnt see any reason to update the code but this could be one.

I had this problem. There was an error in the instructions that caused me to use the wrong wires for the two single light boards at the rear of the castle playfield. Run a GI test. If the search insert is lit during the GI test, you need to swap the connections (castle light board ends only) between the GI light and the search insert.

#9160 4 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I had this problem. There was an error in the instructions that caused me to use the wrong wires for the two single light boards at the rear of the castle playfield. Run a GI test. If the search insert is lit during the GI test, you need to swap the connections (castle light board ends only) between the GI light and the search insert.

Yep that was it ! I guess I’m in for another remove the castle playfield session

#9161 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Yep that was it ! I guess I’m in for another remove the castle playfield session

Isn't it fun?

#9162 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Yep that was it ! I guess I’m in for another remove the castle playfield session

I've lost count on castle removals.

I think I can remove it, fix it and reinstall it in 30 mins lol.

Just like the time expander on my doctor who....rinse, repeat etc. I dont even think about it any more.

#9163 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I've lost count on castle removals.
I think I can remove it, fix it and reinstall it in 30 mins lol.

I could probably do it in 30 mins if removing the left nut of the vuk ramp didnt take me 30mn !

#9164 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I could probably do it in 30 mins if removing the left nut of the vuk ramp didnt take me 30mn !

Long, magnetic nut driver, your knuckles will thank you. You can use a long 1/4" socket but inevitably you'll be trying to find that nut and washer somewhere in the game.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I've lost count on castle removals.
I think I can remove it, fix it and reinstall it in 30 mins lol.
Just like the time expander on my doctor who....rinse, repeat etc. I dont even think about it any more.

Yup.. like second nature now. I added a few disconnects for the wires that can't easily be removed, if I recall there is a purple strand that has to be pulled from under the mini playfield that I added a molex to. JJP did much better on the POTC BP playfield, all connectors in one place.

#9165 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Long, magnetic nut driver, your knuckles will thank you. You can use a long 1/4" socket but inevitably you'll be trying to find that nut and washer somewhere in the game.

I have one but that nut is under the playfield so I can't reach it. The only "method" I found is a flat wrench, but there is very little room to turn it, so it takes a lot of in, turn, out.

Also, I still have problems with the monkey that doesn't catch the ball. Yesterday I had 2 balls on the magnet, and the monkey grabbed both all the way to the castle. The second ball pushed the first one further on the playfield magnet, so I think I need to adjust the switch so the monkey goes a bit more down.

How do I adjust that switch ?

#9166 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I have one but that nut is under the playfield so I can't reach it. The only "method" I found is a flat wrench, but there is very little room to turn it, so it takes a lot of in, turn, out.
Also, I still have problems with the monkey that doesn't catch the ball. Yesterday I had 2 balls on the magnet, and the monkey grabbed both all the way to the castle. The second ball pushed the first one further on the playfield magnet, so I think I need to adjust the switch so the monkey goes a bit more down.
How do I adjust that switch ?

Its a leaf switch attached to where the monkey goes down and hits it to stop. You will see it when looking.

#9167 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Its a leaf switch attached to where the monkey goes down and hits it to stop. You will see it when looking.

But how to adjust it ? Do I move the whole switch ?

#9168 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

But how to adjust it ? Do I move the whole switch ?

Yes. Dont over think it.

Tiny adjustments a little at a time until perfect.

#9169 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

But how to adjust it ? Do I move the whole switch ?

You want to bend the switch slightly. But make sure you put pressure on where it is attached so the leaf part doesnt fly off.

#9170 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

You want to bend the switch slightly. But make sure you put pressure on where it is attached so the leaf part doesnt fly off.

And adjust past the switch body, so you don't effect the flat part pushing the tiny knob into the switch body.

LTG : )

#9171 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I have one but that nut is under the playfield so I can't reach it. The only "method" I found is a flat wrench, but there is very little room to turn it, so it takes a lot of in, turn, out.

I noticed that the nut was differently placed on my SE versus my RR. The RR one is harder to get to for sure. I think it's just a game to game anomaly but I have two other suggestions:

1. You might try one of these, I never had but it could do it: https://www.amazon.com/HORUSDY-3-Piece-Flexible-Socket-Extension/dp/B07BC7NNHC/ref=sr_1_18 and if you need a magnetic socket just glue a small neodymium magnet inside a socket.

2. I ended up also cutting the wireform that goes around the nut. This way the nut doesn't have to be removed. I just dremeled off the end of the loop that goes over the post so the wireform can be slid under the nut and the nut and washer can stay on the post.

#9172 4 years ago

RH castle door has stopped opening. What should I investigate?

#9173 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

RH castle door has stopped opening. What should I investigate?

Go into Tests - Devices - try the door test. If it's making noise but not turning, the set screws holding the motor to the dorr shaft came loose.

Check the parts layout in the manual. Find the two set screws. Remove the door from the shaft. Remove the castle playfield. Remove the screws holding the motor and lower it to get at the ste screws. Tighten them. Reassemble.

LTG : )

#9174 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Go into Tests - Devices - try the door test. If it's making noise but not turning, the set screws holding the motor to the dorr shaft came loose.
Check the parts layout in the manual. Find the two set screws. Remove the door from the shaft. Remove the castle playfield. Remove the screws holding the motor and lower it to get at the ste screws. Tighten them. Reassemble.
LTG : )

Thanks, would you recommend lock-tight on them or just tighten them back up?

#9175 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Thanks, would you recommend lock-tight on them or just tighten them back up?

I'd crank them down once. If it happens again, then yes, locktite.

LTG : )

#9176 4 years ago

I had my doors stop working a couple of times. I got tired of taking off the castle playfield to tighten them and finally used blue loctite. They have not loosened since after hundreds of games.

#9177 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Thanks, would you recommend lock-tight on them or just tighten them back up?

Definitely blue loctite on all of the castle parts. Thank me later.

#9178 4 years ago

I am about to embark on upgrading my WOZ to lighting 2.0, I did read somewhere that there is an updated v2.0 install instructions (with errors removed) does anyone know where I can get this?

#9179 4 years ago
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

I am about to embark on upgrading my WOZ to lighting 2.0, I did read somewhere that there is an updated v2.0 install instructions (with errors removed) does anyone know where I can get this?

Sent you a PM.

#9180 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Sent you a PM.

Few things I would add to the instructions or make sure they are in there :
- Step 4 : Disconnect the haunted forest/Oz signs cable and release him from the zip ties all the way to the main harness.
- Step 12 : Put back the screw that held the old GI Led in the rollover
- Step 15 : Make sure the BAG board has the spacers attached on it. If not get some nylon spacers, tightening without it can break the board
- Step 17 : Few exemples of where to fit the power supply : The machines are not all equal, mine wouldn't fit in the back so I put it on the left side in the back
- Step 24 : Power harness extension and 1ft ethernet cable : Pass them UNDER the metal bracket, they will obstruct the ball lane if above
- Step 24 (I'm sure it's been updated already) : The cables are inverted between castle GI and Rescue light.

#9181 4 years ago

Oh and an update on my Tin Man 2.0 board problem, I talked to Butch at JJP, he thinks the cable is the cause so he is sending me a new one, we'll see when it arrives. I also asked for some rubbers, the tricky to put ones that hold the rainbow plastics, they are sending me some.

As always, JJP service is flawless, really happy with them !

#9182 4 years ago

Is there a way to turn off the castle doors since one of mine is not working?

I searched thru the menu options and did not find a setting to turn them off. I have opened a service ticket with JJP and my distributor.

#9183 4 years ago
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

I am about to embark on upgrading my WOZ to lighting 2.0, I did read somewhere that there is an updated v2.0 install instructions (with errors removed) does anyone know where I can get this?

I could also use a set of updated instructions if anyone has them... thanks

#9184 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Is there a way to turn off the castle doors since one of mine is not working?
I searched thru the menu options and did not find a setting to turn them off. I have opened a service ticket with JJP and my distributor.

Operators tie them back with a nylon tie while waiting for parts.

Maybe disable in the menus. I haven't done it just seen the tied back doors.

#9185 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Is there a way to turn off the castle doors since one of mine is not working?
I searched thru the menu options and did not find a setting to turn them off. I have opened a service ticket with JJP and my distributor.

Unplug the switches so they don't register hits? Put one or two sling rubber over them at ball level? Think like an operator!

#9186 4 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

5 days old and my RR is already down. OZ Lang sling shot rubber snapped. No spare came with the game.
Where do you you recommend ordering spares from? Can you purchase a kit with all of the usual rubbers?
New to pinball so looking for options and recommendations.
Thanks[quoted image][quoted image]

I think that is really common! Mine also broke after just a week or two of play. There is a video on YouTube on how to replace that part. I replaced mine with a Titan one.

#9187 4 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Thanks gents. I just went ahead and ordered the Modfather ruby red shooter rod and housing:
https://modfatherpinball.com/products/woz-ruby-red-shooter-housing-shooter-pincup?_pos=11&_sid=00bd4fdd7&_ss=r
I don't need a separate volume control, if anyone has a high quality decal or magnet for the blank coin door square, let me know. The start button is plain too, I'll search around to see if there's anything available to jazz that up. My hobbit right next to WOZ is all pimped out, but the WOZ is still pretty plain. Time to dress it up.

Let me know what you think about it. I just got one and was disappointed with it. It is too dark and does not match the powder coating on my machine. I am not sure if I am going to use it or not.

#9188 4 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

Let me know what you think about it. I just got one and was disappointed with it. It is too dark and does not match the powder coating on my machine. I am not sure if I am going to use it or not.

Not to bash Modfather becuase I do like them, but I wasnt overly happy with my Emerald Green pingulp either. Color doesnt match and I feel its prone to chipping/cracking easy. When I bolted it in, the cracked and chipped a good amount from the leg bolts. Perhaps that's unavoidable. But it has a gritty textrure to it vs. other powder coatings that I have seen that are smooth.

#9189 4 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

I think that is really common! Mine also broke after just a week or two of play. There is a video on YouTube on how to replace that part. I replaced mine with a Titan one.

Same here after a month, JJP sent me a new one that for some reason never broke again. I do tick with panic when I hear a weird noise coming from there !

#9190 4 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Same here after a month, JJP sent me a new one that for some reason never broke again. I do tick with panic when I hear a weird noise coming from there !

Mine broke within a few weeks of buying and JJP sent me another. It broke within a month. I bought a Titan band and put it there and its been over 2 years now and over 1000 plays without any issues.

Quoted from Gotfrogs:

Let me know what you think about it. I just got one and was disappointed with it. It is too dark and does not match the powder coating on my machine. I am not sure if I am going to use it or not.

Quoted from Rager170:

Not to bash Modfather becuase I do like them, but I wasnt overly happy with my Emerald Green pingulp either. Color doesnt match and I feel its prone to chipping/cracking easy. When I bolted it in, the cracked and chipped a good amount from the leg bolts. Perhaps that's unavoidable. But it has a gritty textrure to it vs. other powder coatings that I have seen that are smooth.

I bought the Modfather rod and pingulp for my RR a few years ago and both matched my powdercoat color well. I will agree with the texture on the pingulp but I did not have any issues with cracking or chipping when I installed it. It works for what it is.

#9191 4 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

I think that is really common! Mine also broke after just a week or two of play. There is a video on YouTube on how to replace that part. I replaced mine with a Titan one.

I had that rubber break several times in a couple months. I tried regular black rubber and Titan rubber. They all broke. I finally turned down the strength of the slingshot kicker below the oz lanes and haven’t had a problem since.

#9192 4 years ago
Quoted from Gotfrogs:

Let me know what you think about it. I just got one and was disappointed with it. It is too dark and does not match the powder coating on my machine. I am not sure if I am going to use it or not.

You might want to check out the one that Chrome Candy offers, the one I have is pretty close but I believe he said the new color they are using is a better match. If you do go with theirs be sure to get a stronger shooter spring, you'll need it.

#9193 4 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I had that rubber break several times in a couple months. I tried regular black rubber and Titan rubber. They all broke. I finally turned down the strength of the slingshot kicker below the oz lanes and haven’t had a problem since.

Mine was factory set at 2, I tried at 1 but it was barely pushing the ball so I went back to 2, so far so good.

#9194 4 years ago

Finally got my Cliffy order and was looking over the directions.

For anyone that has installed this, I have a question regarding the Castle VUK as the directions show this:

"Remove 11/32 nuts from witch and then remove metal plate and plastic witch window/protector (in pink). It simple slides right up and off. Be careful to weave it around her hat. • Next pry up the plastic and remove it. This will take some effort as it is on there snug. Work all the way around at each mount, do not pull too hard in one spot or you will break the plastic. Once it is off the posts, pull it towards the backbox and slide it out. Lift slightly as you pull it out to p revent the posts from scratching the plastic."

My question is: First it says that the plastic witch protector simply slides right up and off. But then the next step it says to pry up the plastic and remove it and that its on there snug and be careful not to break it.

Is this for a different plastic piece other than the witch tube housing? Confused by this.

And with this part of the cliffy, it came with a clear plastic cutout to go with this. I am assuming this is mylar?

#9195 4 years ago

How many just have a standard and still love it?

What is the biggest omission?

#9196 4 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

How many just have a standard and still love it?
What is the biggest omission?

Standard is fine. Almost any of the things you can add on later. Biggest question is going to be 2.0 lighting and if you want the specific look of one of the editions. If you can find a SE with 2.0 lighting in good condition, go for it. But you can also get a green edition (from automated) new... so might be an option.

The RR toys are available from Backalley Creations. The ECLE has the cool green wood apron, on top of the color of the whole thing.

#9198 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Standard is fine. Almost any of the things you can add on later. Biggest question is going to be 2.0 lighting and if you want the specific look of one of the editions. If you can find a SE with 2.0 lighting in good condition, go for it. But you can also get a green edition (from automated) new... so might be an option.
The RR toys are available from Backalley Creations. The ECLE has the cool green wood apron, on top of the color of the whole thing.

It doesn’t look like Automated has any of their “special” Emerald Cities left. However, they are listing the 2.0 light boards on their standards.

I think green is my favorite. YBR looks cool, but it’s a pretty steep price with other options out there.

#9199 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Standard is fine. Almost any of the things you can add on later. Biggest question is going to be 2.0 lighting and if you want the specific look of one of the editions. If you can find a SE with 2.0 lighting in good condition, go for it. But you can also get a green edition (from automated) new... so might be an option.
The RR toys are available from Backalley Creations. The ECLE has the cool green wood apron, on top of the color of the whole thing.

If you order a new one, how can you be sure it comes with the new lightboards?
For example does all RR come with the new stuff, or are there things that may need to be fixed or replaced?

I just dont know here in europe, there may be so that games are stored for future sales, so you may get an "old" nib.

#9200 4 years ago
Quoted from Dr-pin:

If you order a new one, how can you be sure it comes with the new lightboards?
For example does all RR come with the new stuff, or are there things that may need to be fixed or replaced?
I just dont know here in europe, there may be so that games are stored for future sales, so you may get an "old" nib.

You ask. I was told by one of the guys at JJP to make sure when I ordered my WOZRR that it had the 2.0 light boards and to get the serial number and he would double check it. I confirmed with the distributor, given the serial number and checked back at JJP. This was over a year ago and mine was made in 2017.

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