I tried every small pointy thing I could find to get that stand off in. I don't know why it was so difficult, but it was.

Congrats! #1342 was delivered to me today. It'll be a few days before I can set it up.

Was curious about something while playing last night.

How does one change the flipper rubbers with those ruby slippers on them?

Very carefully. I would cut the old one off. If new one is tight stretch it out a few times. Then opposite of what I would normally do. Slip over the narrow end and then pull/stretch over the fat end.

If you are afraid of breaking the slipper. If it pops off, then put a bead of super glue gel across the top of the flipper bat and stick it back on. No need to clean or prep the surfaces. That method seems to last forever in commercial use.

LTG : )

Monkey Help - I have a new RR and the Monkey never picks up the ball. The ball was captured on the play field, the monkey went down to pick up the ball, it looked like the monkey grabbed the ball and then the ball fell off just as the monkey started rising.

I could not find any references as to how to solve this issue. Thanks

manually try it a few times in the game with the glass off.
It could just be a fluke.

There are adjustments on the monkey, but see if it always happens or just sometimes.

A video on this is helpful.

Check the magnet sense board?

What would the steps be to test it properly? Thanks

start a game
activate the winged monkey targets behind the haunted forest to get the capture light flashing
roll a ball along the outer lane and look to see what happens.

Thanks for the video. I believe the magnet sense board is working just the in the video.

Is it normal for it only let me perform the capture Dorothy once on the first ball?

I tried two games and I can only perform this function on the first ball and both times it picked up the ball but dropped it on the play field when it reached the castle. The monkey did not place the ball behind the door.

Does your monkey go completely behind the castle door before it releases the ball. It looks like the switch clicks too early for the ball to fall at the right place. Also did you look behind the door to make sure it's clear ?

I tried it a third time and the monkey took the ball to the castle, dropped the ball, and the ball bounced out to the right and back onto the lower play field.

Adjust the upper limit switch so your monkey travels a little bit farther.

LTG : )

Yes it is clear. The monkey rises to the top behind the door, stops and then drops the ball, which bounces out to the right onto the lower play field.

Thanks, I will give that a try.

Mine does this on occasion also. Always been curious why it looks like the metal framing there has a cutout to let the ball out to drop down? Doesnt look like its needed for ball travel going up from the monkey. Could be wrong...

You are wrong. It's for going up. Depending on how the ball is grabbed, or how the whole monkey mech is mounted, the ball needs plenty of room, it's not always in the same spot going up. And the castle playfield could be higher or lower from game to game.

LTG : )

Lloyd, while you are at the monkey chapter. Mine doesnt always pick up the ball from the magnet.
You told me to check if the wires were free to move. I suspect when I push the playfield to the back the wire get stuck.

Here is a picture of mine, you can see the black wire I hold is hanging completely loose. Should it be like that or should I tie it somewhere ?

4B48D6A1-CDDB-4B1A-A696-F4E51BA2EE15 (resized).jpeg

I'd tie it up just on general principle.

LTG : )

Question, there is a small piece of rubber that was laying flat on the upper play field behind the door. i think the ball was being dropped on the rubber and bouncing out. See picture.

Where is the rubber supposed to be placed?

It looks to me like it is supposed to be vertical and attached to the RH metal guard to protect the ball when dropped from the metal guard edge.

D9217B1A-A101-47AC-AE2C-4D2E256DB037 (resized).jpeg

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Flat on the playfield. Tight against the stainless steel wall with the hole through it for the ball to travel through. It should divert the ball a little to the lane switch up there.

LTG : )

Thanks, but with the switch all the way left and the rubber on the right, it appears that the ball just bounces between the two and then out the right side. I will see if I can adjust the switch to the center/right and find a good placement for the rubber.

I just received replacement rails from Robert Stone as mine were getting chipped up from the lockdown bar. Excellent work, check it out.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered/page/34#post-5233734

Now how to avoid this in the future.. hmmnnnn

Another new issue. The Winkie target is stuck down.

Is there a way to test it? I could not find a setting to test.

Edit: found the coil setting, but the target is not resetting to the up position when a new game is started.

Wow, you really are having a lot of issues with that game, that's a bummer. There is a coil in the coil test for the Winkie drop up (and a separate one for down). Could be that the target just won't stay up and you need to adjust the mechanism mechanically to fix it but the coil test will show expose that if that is the case.

Tell me about it.

Every time I try to fix something. Something else crops up.

Now I just found the drop target switch completely lose and tightened it, turned the machine on and got this...

5308AEFF-648B-4AC0-9EF7-426F69C251C1 (resized).jpeg

Turn game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. Check that the switch is still on the drop target assembly and working, and see if you can push the plunger/drop target up and down easily.

LTG : )

Looks like a cable maybe has come loose if it just happened.

Probably knocked loose while repairing the winkie.

#54 and #94 might need adjusting. #101 and #102 might not have been triggered if a ball isn't going around the spinning house. You can push them in Tests - Switches - Matrixed and see if they work.

Flipper switches - Tests - Switches - Dedicated, push the flipper button in.

All of these errors don't necessarily mean something is wrong, they got flagged because they weren't used recently.

LTG : )

For the moment I believe the monkey bounce out right is fixed. I moved the rubber strip away from the metal guard to the left about 1/16-1/8 inch away from the right side of the mini play field. This appears to stop the bounce out and the ball looks like it is sitting on the switch now after being dropped.

Winkie drop target switch screws were completely lose. Aligned it best I could not knowing exactly how it should be set. It looks like the target is working now.

Ran switch tests and all switches appear to be working like they should. Must have been a flagging as LTG stated. I never had issues with them before.

I am learning a lot more about WOZ than I expected being NIB! Man that play field is heavier than I expected.

Not now. Since it's working.

Game turned off. Lift playfield up and lean back. Tab on drop target depresses switch going down and releases it going up. Do this manually and listen for the switch to click.

LTG : )

Crystal ball question. Where do other owners have to place their eyes/head in order to see the middle of the screen in the crystal ball?

On my machine, I have to lower my head & eyes by 6 inches & shift my body to the right about 6 inches. In my opinion, it’s like the crystal ball was not aligned with the players line of site. I am 5’10” so I could understand it being lower for shorter players. But being off to the right is not correct.

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Thanks for the info. Found the coil and tests ok. The switch screws were completely lose. Aligned and tightened and appears to be working now.

Ok I’m about to turn the game on again, I swear I’ve never been that scared of pressing a button in my entire life.

Whoever reads this, please cross fingers with me !

the amount of issues from a brand NEW game is crazy. Sorry to hear.

I've called on a higher power to take a few moments away from having his hands full with the Christian and Kurdish SDF fighters in Syria to watch over the button press...
the-lord-watches (resized).jpeg

I believe the majority are Sunni.

Clarified, but a long row to hoe for a one-off.

High Power almost granted our wishes... Almost unfurtonately
So I have 3 lights that don’t turn on.
All 3 (27, 29 and 155) plug on the same port J102 on Tin man board.
I switched one light with another one that lits and it lights. So I dont think the small leds are at fault.
I tried reseating the J102 cable a bunch of times but they still dont light.
The other lights plugged to the same board turn on normally.

Any help appreciated, except declaring the main board is at fault, I have no idea what else to do.

IMG-6018 (resized).JPG

I had the exact same problem. I wound up putting the CB base on top of the wireform and that helped. The molex connector is now also below the wireform, which I think offers better protection. It helped with the vertical alignment, but mine still requires a bit of a right lean like yours. Almost seems like the base bracket should have an eccentric or oval hole to allow alignment adjustment.

Thanks, I was wondering if is just my machine or common.

I attempted the exact same thing. I tried putting it on top of the wire form, but the connector on the back was hitting the wire form. So it didn’t work for me.

I may look at the base again and see if I can make a mounting base for it that is adjustable...

I just turned on my WOZRR and I have the skittles lightening happening. I am guessing I have a board going bad? How do I diagnose?

955DABA4-6B81-4DA6-BAF1-F442DEF14C1E (resized).jpeg

This is a great idea and an issue i have also. My horizontal seems fine..

Another question about the CB. When its blank and not showing anything, I can see like small bubbles, almost like a film is left on the screen or something. Anyone else notice this or have a fix?

Go into individual LED tests and run through them in order until you get to the first one that is acting improperly. Then (with the power off) bypass that board by jumpering from the output from the previous board to the next board in order (i.e. if 19 is bad jump output of 18 to input of 20). Then go into the settings and disable the bad board and see if that resolves your problem. Sometimes the actual bad board is the one previous to the first on the exhibits problems, i.e. if 19 acts bad it could be 18 so if this doesn't fix your problem go back and try jumpering over the previous board in the order.

Lol

It's a plastic ball glued onto a little oled screen....

You'll eventually have this memorized if you have the 1.xx light system, but here's the order of the boards. Go into LED test mode. Then using this diagram, starting at board 1, follow until you find the first light mis-colored OR the one BEFORE the first light that's out. Then jumper OVER that board, skipping from the output of the board before it to the input of the board after it. If the problem is a castle light, just skip over the castle entirely (all lights) while diagnosing. Then REMOVE THAT BOARD (or boards if you skipped over the castle) FROM THE LIGHTING LIST ON THE SYSTEM MENU or the coloring will still be messed up.

Repeat until clear.
lightboard-diagram.jpg

So everyone has these bubbles? Sorry, I missing the point of your post.

To some extent yes.

Sorry, I found it humorous to seek perfection in a tiny plastic ball that goes unnoticed for the most part.

It made me chuckle...

And though way cool, doesnt do anything really.