(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,516 posts
  • 519 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by pinballinreno
  • Topic is favorited by 235 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,271 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20191205_202507 (resized).jpg
D2DA45AC-3A56-48BD-98C6-EB2903FF7D72 (resized).jpeg
47C2011B-630B-4BA7-82EB-45ABCC0B6895 (resized).png
DSC_0022 (resized).JPG
DSC_0020 (resized).JPG
DSC_0027 (resized).JPG
DED6513E-F647-4711-B14A-D594529874BE (resized).jpeg
30674CF5-079D-4129-87F9-61AEFAF9493E (resized).jpeg
56939621-EAF0-454A-8863-244B662F308E (resized).jpeg
F9188C71-7432-4F17-AC93-06373D13BB5B (resized).jpeg
CAF64695-00D2-4317-9D1F-56DCC33D9763 (resized).jpeg
E34121FE-22A1-4CCB-9777-1B217BC9D3D1 (resized).jpeg
A4AB663B-996E-42AF-80D1-4AD0D512E9CC (resized).jpeg
EAF6D4A2-DB55-4B31-9279-9D8894CCDACF (resized).png
crystallball2 (resized).JPG
4D5A0E0D-3741-49BB-9D1F-37512A960EDE (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 9516 posts in this topic. You are on page 181 of 191.
#9001 59 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Press the "start" button to run the tests.

I tried that. It does not seem to do anything. The flippers do work though.

#9002 59 days ago

One other issue I cannot figure out is that the topper does not light up. Does it have a light sensor or should it just be on all of the time?

#9003 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

I tried that. It does not seem to do anything. The flippers do work though.

Hmmnn I feel like I had this problem and realized i was pressing the "enter" button and not the "start" button.

#9004 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

One other issue I cannot figure out is that the topper does not light up. Does it have a light sensor or should it just be on all of the time?

It should be on after the booting screens. it stays on.

#9005 59 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

It should be on after the booting screens. it stays on.

Thanks...but the topper is never on and the start button does not activate the device tests.

I found another odd issue. I am unable to move the left outlane post due to the limited space between the screw that holds the post and the metal guide next to the hole. I can fit the screw in by itself, but that’s it.

#9006 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Thanks...but the topper is never on with this machine and the start button does not activate the device tests.
I found another odd issue. I am unable to move the left outlane post due to the limited space between the screw that holds the post and the metal guide next to the hole. I can fit the screw in by itself, but that’s it.

#9007 59 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Hmmnn I feel like I had this problem and realized i was pressing the "enter" button and not the "start" button.

The enter button just keeps switching between Manual and Auto.

#9008 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Thanks...but the topper is never on and the start button does not activate the device tests.
I found another odd issue. I am unable to move the left outlane post due to the limited space between the screw that holds the post and the metal guide next to the hole. I can fit the screw in by itself, but that’s it.

There is another hole for the left guide to be moved as well.

#9009 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Thanks...but the topper is never on and the start button does not activate the device tests.
I found another odd issue. I am unable to move the left outlane post due to the limited space between the screw that holds the post and the metal guide next to the hole. I can fit the screw in by itself, but that’s it.

You have to remove the top screw holding the ball guide down and move it too if my (shoddy) memory serves me correctly.

Can you start and play a game?

Check connections in the backbox going up to the LED strip for the Topper, also check Topper Brightness setting in the menu.

#9010 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Just received an RR #708. Yea!
Now I cannot figure out how to get any of the Device Tests to run. I can navigate to the device tests menu. I can change between tests, but none of the tests will run. I have tried them with the door closed and with the safety interlock pulled out. Nothing seems to make the test run. Manual does not work. Auto does not work.
What am I doing wrong? The manual does not mention how to activate the tests.
Thanks

Check all the connectors in the game (bottom of the cabinet and in the computer box).

#9011 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

The enter button just keeps switching between Manual and Auto.

Thats why I said to press the Start button, not the enter button.

#9012 59 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

You have to remove the top screw holding the ball guide down and move it too if my (shoddy) memory serves me correctly.
Can you start and play a game?
Check connections in the backbox going up to the LED strip for the Topper, also check Topper Brightness setting in the menu.

Yes the game boots and plays.

There are two BLUE connectors that go to the topper. The light strip is connected to one of the BLUE wire connectors. The other connector is not connected to anything. I disconnected the connector and reconnected it and the light is still off. I am hesitant at connecting the light to the other connector not knowing what it is for.

A1A92D17-486B-4955-B6D0-C18A5C57DCAD (resized).jpeg
#9013 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Yes the game boots and plays.
There are two BLUE connectors that go to the topper. The light strip is connected to one of the BLUE wire connectors. The other connector is not connected to anything. I disconnected the connector and reconnected it and the light is still off. I am hesitant at connecting the light to the other connector not knowing what it is for.[quoted image]

I would be looking more at where those wires connect to that big metal box. I had a bunch of loose connections right off the bat. I still do from barely touching things. Its quite annoying actually.

#9014 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Yes the game boots and plays.
There are two BLUE connectors that go to the topper. The light strip is connected to one of the BLUE wire connectors. The other connector is not connected to anything. I disconnected the connector and reconnected it and the light is still off. I am hesitant at connecting the light to the other connector not knowing what it is for.[quoted image]

Do any of the devices you are trying to test (assume the house and Monkey?) work in game? Are the spotlights on?

As @rager170 suggested follow those wires for the topper strip down to the Metal box? Is the metal box with the PC in it still in the bottom of the cabinet on these new RRs or did it get moved to the backbox?

#9015 59 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Do any of the devices you are trying to test (assume the house and Monkey?) work in game? Are the spotlights on?
As @rager170 suggested follow those wires for the topper strip down to the Metal box? Is the metal box with the PC in it still in the bottom of the cabinet on these new RRs or did it get moved to the backbox?

PC is now the the back box.

Two connects were not flush so I turned the machine off and reseated them. The device tests seem to work now. Yes, there is a lot of tension pulling the connectors to the side.

So the device test is fixed.

Topper I cannot figure out and there is no way the LH outlane post is going to fit into its RH hole.

#9016 59 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Do any of the devices you are trying to test (assume the house and Monkey?) work in game? Are the spotlights on?
As @rager170 suggested follow those wires for the topper strip down to the Metal box? Is the metal box with the PC in it still in the bottom of the cabinet on these new RRs or did it get moved to the backbox?

Man, I feel bad for him. Nothing worse than having an issue first thing on a new machine... I had that problem when I got mine, but mine was a super dud! lol

Hopefully he gets everything sorted out soon.

#9017 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

PC is now the the back box.
Two connects were not flush so I turned the machine off and reseated them. The device tests seem to work now. Yes, there is a lot of tension pulling the connectors to the side.
So the device test is fixed.
Topper I cannot figure out and there is no way the LH outlane post is going to fit into its RH hole.

The outlane post definitely should. This has tricked a lot of people thinking it would slide over but once they removed it, they found that it did fit in the right hole..

#9018 59 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

The outlane post definitely should. This has tricked a lot of people thinking it would slide over but once they removed it, they found that it did fit in the right hole..

No room but for the screw.

5B73F4C3-F119-4C94-8D61-8EEE9BA0C4F3 (resized).jpegE4EFB521-6AAE-4AED-8E0A-BD6309B720C4 (resized).jpeg
#9019 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Topper I cannot figure out and there is no way the LH outlane post is going to fit into its RH hole.

Measure DC Volts at that connector you posted before.

Unless they changed the PF (they didn't) you can move that lane guide post but you have to remove the plastic piece covering it. See the area I circled below, the two larger top holes are for the post and the lower two are for the lane guide, you do have to bend it a little to move it over there.

Untitled (resized).png
#9020 59 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Man, I feel bad for him. Nothing worse than having an issue first thing on a new machine... I had that problem when I got mine, but mine was a super dud! lol
Hopefully he gets everything sorted out soon.

Yeah I feel bad for him (which is why I'm trying to help him) but then again he did just get a brand-new WOZRR so there's plenty to be happy about for him too!

#9021 59 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Measure DC Volts at that connector you posted before.
Unless they changed the PF (they didn't) you can move that lane guide post but you have to remove the plastic piece covering it. See the area I circled below, the two larger top holes are for the post and the lower two are for the lane guide, you do have to bend it a little to move it over there.[quoted image]

Do you know what the voltage should read?

So, if I understand you correctly, there are two sets of holes for both the post and the metal guide. To move the post to the right hole, I must move the guide to the left holes? Correct?

Thanks for the picture. I think it makes sense now. I could not see any additional hole for the guide since they are covered up by the bracket.

#9022 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Do you know what the voltage should read?
So, if I understand you correctly, there are two sets of holes for both the post and the metal guide. To move the post to the right hole, I must move the guide to the left holes? Correct?

Did you see the picture I posted with the holes circled (not sure if you're mobile or not)? Remove the plastic that covers that area, remove the screw holding the ball guide down and then push the ball guide inward towards the middle of the PF (or to the right if you prefer) slowly and you will see another hole there. Hold the ball guide in place above that hole and fasten it down with the same screw. You can now move the post to the right hole and then re-install the plastic.

I don't remember if the Topper LED strip is 6 or 12 VDC but I bet @LTG or @pinballomatic knows.

#9023 59 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Did you see the picture I posted with the holes circled (not sure if you're mobile or not)? Remove the plastic that covers that area, remove the screw holding the ball guide down and then push the ball guide inward towards the middle of the PF (or to the right if you prefer) slowly and you will see another hole there. Hold the ball guide in place above that hole and fasten it down with the same screw. You can now move the post to the right hole and then re-install the plastic.
I don't remember if the Topper LED strip is 6 or 12 VDC but I bet @LTG or @pinballomatic knows.

Pretty sure it's all 12v.

#9024 59 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Pretty sure it's all 12v.

That's what I thought and I think it shares a circuit / fuse with the Spotlights which is why I asked about them in my first reply.

#9025 59 days ago

Thanks for the assistance. I believe I understand your instructions concerning the post and guide. I will look at that later tonight.

Emailing with Stephen at JJP about the topper lights. 13.8 volts and the fuses appear to be working. I think it is the led strip not working since there is voltage.

#9026 59 days ago

Thanks to all for your assistance with my issues guys! Thumbs Up

Device test was a loose connector.

@bobukcat provided the picture which should solve the post issue.

And...I think the topper led strip is not working. The connector is getting 13.8 volts. The backbox led strip is receiving 12 volts. Fuses look good. Stephen @ JJP was emailing me about the topper. I will wait for word from him about it. The start button flashes and according to Stephen it is the same circuit as the topper. Again, makes me suspect the led strip.

Game is beautiful and I think it might be a keeper.

#9027 59 days ago

Just received out 75th anniversary #1337 from the new run today. I have not yet un-boxed the pin. hoping I do not have any issues as other have had. Was told the monitor and computer on the latest "batch" of ruby red is mounted the same as the yellow brick road. I did find it interesting that the set up sheet that was sent shows the Wonka Machine on it!!! Anything I should look for when opening it up?

#9028 59 days ago

If relevant to LukyDuck's efforts:

I'm owner #2. Owner #1 had the game for years.
When I first turned it on after moving it to my home, the backbox did not light up.

Simple problem of one of the pins in the cable connector having backed out juuuuuust a little. Simple reseat (push) of the pin into the housing & it was fine.
Sounds similar to your topper problem, & the Start button problem that you fixed. Perhaps that's what's behind your dark topper.

Good luck!

Thanks,
-Jason

#9029 59 days ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

If relevant to LukyDuck's efforts:
I'm owner #2. Owner #1 had the game for years.
When I first turned it on after moving it to my home, the backbox did not light up.
Simple problem of one of the pins in the cable connector having backed out juuuuuust a little. Simple reseat (push) of the pin into the housing & it was fine.
Sounds similar to your topper problem, & the Start button problem that you fixed. Perhaps that's what's behind your dark topper.
Good luck!
Thanks,
-Jason

Thanks for the information. Stephen from JJP and I have determined it is the led strip that is bad. He is going to get a new one sent out.

#9030 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Game is beautiful and I think it might be a keeper.

It is and it will be!

#9031 59 days ago
Quoted from irishpin:

Just received out 75th anniversary #1337 from the new run today. I have not yet un-boxed the pin. hoping I do not have any issues as other have had. Was told the monitor and computer on the latest "batch" of ruby red is mounted the same as the yellow brick road. I did find it interesting that the set up sheet that was sent shows the Wonka Machine on it!!! Anything I should look for when opening it up?

Funny, I just received my RR and I saw the WW instructions also.

Here is something I would do.

Turn off your machine and grab the backbox keys and unlock it. Slide up the panel and place it somewhere safe. Grab the monitor on both sides and pull forward. There are two strong magnets holding it in place. The monitor can be swung to the side of the machine. It’s on a monitor mount attached to the backbox. Double check all of the connectors to ensure they are flush with the board. I had a few that were not completely seated and gave me an issue. I also would look at all of the fuses and make sure they are good. The cables are really tight and some are pulling the bundles to one side or the other.

Check you plumb bob and adjust it. Mine was slightly off after I leveled the machine both front to back and side to side.

Wax the play field.

ENJOY IT!

#9032 59 days ago

Just curious, but are these new RR's coming with the monkey mech? I heard that they were, but I'm not sure I ever saw a definitive answer.

#9033 59 days ago

I broke one of these rubbers. Any idea what they are called and where to find them ?

EB91780F-FD8B-462D-8561-05C061AA719D (resized).jpeg
#9034 59 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

I broke one of these rubbers. Any idea what they are called and where to find them ?[quoted image]

I broke one of those damned things doing the 2.0 swap too, the whole top of mine snapped off so I used a little rubber cement to re-connect it. So far so good but they really should include a couple of those in the kit.

#9035 59 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Just curious, but are these new RR's coming with the monkey mech? I heard that they were, but I'm not sure I ever saw a definitive answer.

Yes, they come with the Monkey! They are part of the original 1,500.

The only thing I believe I didn’t receive was the Color Owners Manual. They should drop the item from the list if they are not going to include it and the price by $100. I would have liked to have it, personally.

#9036 59 days ago
Quoted from irishpin:

Just received out 75th anniversary #1337 from the new run today. I have not yet un-boxed the pin. hoping I do not have any issues as other have had. Was told the monitor and computer on the latest "batch" of ruby red is mounted the same as the yellow brick road. I did find it interesting that the set up sheet that was sent shows the Wonka Machine on it!!! Anything I should look for when opening it up?

Here is something else I would do.

Navigate to the Devices Test (i.e. Moneky test, house test, witch test, etc.) section of the game. Run them and make sure they work as expected. I had to adjust the spinning house in order to get the feet/legs to show properly. It took a bunch of time playing with the settings for it to work right. I am glad I adjusted it now so that I know it should work properly IF I ever get to that part in the game.

#9037 59 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Yes, they come with the Monkey! They are part of the original 1,500.
The only thing I believe I didn’t receive was the Color Owners Manual. They should drop the item from the list if they are not going to include it and the price by $100. I would have liked to have it, personally.

Contact them and see if they’ll send it to you.

#9038 59 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

I broke one of these rubbers. Any idea what they are called and where to find them ?[quoted image]

Those things are cursed. I would just ask them to send you a replacement or two . . . or three. I’m sure they will.

#9039 59 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Contact them and see if they’ll send it to you.

I have thought about it and might do that tomorrow. At least just ask if it is supposed to come with it since it is advertised on their website as included.

#9040 59 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Those things are cursed. I would just ask them to send you a replacement or two . . . or three. I’m sure they will.

Yeah Ill try that. I put the playfield back, the led board is wiggly but at least I can finish the 2.0 job.

That munchkin pf is a hassle to take off, I thought it would be a breeze after the castle one but it was the opposite.

#9041 59 days ago

Dammit I thought I was done with cabling and put some zip ties everywhere, I was even proud of myself until i saw the pf signs connector hanging and realize I need to cut a good 20 zip ties and get him on the other side of the playfield to board 7

10756401-DE9B-407C-A2F2-B6992A7AF14F (resized).jpeg
#9042 59 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

Yeah Ill try that. I put the playfield back, the led board is wiggly but at least I can finish the 2.0 job.
That munchkin pf is a hassle to take off, I thought it would be a breeze after the castle one but it was the opposite.

Having done both the Munchkin and castle playfields twice now, I’m not sure which one is harder. I do know that when I did my 2.0 conversion, I spent about 30-45 minutes trying to get that @#$* rubber stand off through the hole in the rainbow plastic. I eventually waxed the tip and twisted it through. But first I tried pulling it with a needle nose pliers and got similar results as you. .

#9043 59 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I spent about 30-45 minutes trying to get that @#$* rubber stand off through the hole in the rainbow plastic. I eventually waxed the tip and twisted it through. But first I tried pulling it with a needle nose pliers and got similar results as you.

I took a small screw driver and pushed the tip up on one side from below and then it snapped into position. 5 seconds.

LTG : )

#9044 58 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

I took a small screw driver and pushed the tip up on one side from below and then it snapped into position. 5 seconds.
LTG : )

I used some needle nose pliers to grab the tip and pull through. Went quite easily with a little light wiggling.

#9045 58 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Funny, I just received my RR and I saw the WW instructions also.
Here is something I would do.
Turn off your machine and grab the backbox keys and unlock it. Slide up the panel and place it somewhere safe. Grab the monitor on both sides and pull forward. There are two strong magnets holding it in place. The monitor can be swung to the side of the machine. It’s on a monitor mount attached to the backbox. Double check all of the connectors to ensure they are flush with the board. I had a few that were not completely seated and gave me an issue. I also would look at all of the fuses and make sure they are good. The cables are really tight and some are pulling the bundles to one side or the other.
Check you plumb bob and adjust it. Mine was slightly off after I leveled the machine both front to back and side to side.
Wax the play field.
ENJOY IT!

Thank you for the advice, I will definitely do this. I cant wait to get it set up and have some fun. Thanks again!

#9046 58 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Here is something else I would do.
Navigate to the Devices Test (i.e. Moneky test, house test, witch test, etc.) section of the game. Run them and make sure they work as expected. I had to adjust the spinning house in order to get the feet/legs to show properly. It took a bunch of time playing with the settings for it to work right. I am glad I adjusted it now so that I know it should work properly IF I ever get to that part in the game.

Got ya! A lot more going on with this sucker than our ghostbusters!!

#9047 58 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I broke one of those damned things doing the 2.0 swap too, the whole top of mine snapped off so I used a little rubber cement to re-connect it. So far so good but they really should include a couple of those in the kit.

We broke the same rubber on the munchkinland in our 2.0 swap. This part needs to be included in the kit IMO.

#9048 58 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I used some needle nose pliers to grab the tip and pull through. Went quite easily with a little light wiggling.

I just push the tip through the hole and using the flesh of my thumb rub the nub back and forth till it pops through.

#9049 58 days ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I just push the tip through the hole and using the flesh of my thumb rub the nub back and forth till it pops through.

And then a cold shower? Or does it progress from there?

#9050 58 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

And then a cold shower? Or does it progress from there?

Just a nibble on the nubble..

o (resized).jpg
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 8,500.00
Pinball Machine
PinballSTAR Amusements
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
ModFather Pinball Mods
7,995
Machine - For Sale
Milford, CT
There are 9516 posts in this topic. You are on page 181 of 191.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside