I tried that. It does not seem to do anything. The flippers do work though.

One other issue I cannot figure out is that the topper does not light up. Does it have a light sensor or should it just be on all of the time?

Hmmnn I feel like I had this problem and realized i was pressing the "enter" button and not the "start" button.

It should be on after the booting screens. it stays on.

Thanks...but the topper is never on and the start button does not activate the device tests.

I found another odd issue. I am unable to move the left outlane post due to the limited space between the screw that holds the post and the metal guide next to the hole. I can fit the screw in by itself, but that’s it.

The enter button just keeps switching between Manual and Auto.

There is another hole for the left guide to be moved as well.

You have to remove the top screw holding the ball guide down and move it too if my (shoddy) memory serves me correctly.

Can you start and play a game?

Check connections in the backbox going up to the LED strip for the Topper, also check Topper Brightness setting in the menu.

Check all the connectors in the game (bottom of the cabinet and in the computer box).

Thats why I said to press the Start button, not the enter button.

Yes the game boots and plays.

There are two BLUE connectors that go to the topper. The light strip is connected to one of the BLUE wire connectors. The other connector is not connected to anything. I disconnected the connector and reconnected it and the light is still off. I am hesitant at connecting the light to the other connector not knowing what it is for.

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I would be looking more at where those wires connect to that big metal box. I had a bunch of loose connections right off the bat. I still do from barely touching things. Its quite annoying actually.

Do any of the devices you are trying to test (assume the house and Monkey?) work in game? Are the spotlights on?

As @rager170 suggested follow those wires for the topper strip down to the Metal box? Is the metal box with the PC in it still in the bottom of the cabinet on these new RRs or did it get moved to the backbox?

PC is now the the back box.

Two connects were not flush so I turned the machine off and reseated them. The device tests seem to work now. Yes, there is a lot of tension pulling the connectors to the side.

So the device test is fixed.

Topper I cannot figure out and there is no way the LH outlane post is going to fit into its RH hole.

Man, I feel bad for him. Nothing worse than having an issue first thing on a new machine... I had that problem when I got mine, but mine was a super dud! lol

Hopefully he gets everything sorted out soon.

The outlane post definitely should. This has tricked a lot of people thinking it would slide over but once they removed it, they found that it did fit in the right hole..

No room but for the screw.

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Measure DC Volts at that connector you posted before.

Unless they changed the PF (they didn't) you can move that lane guide post but you have to remove the plastic piece covering it. See the area I circled below, the two larger top holes are for the post and the lower two are for the lane guide, you do have to bend it a little to move it over there.

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Yeah I feel bad for him (which is why I'm trying to help him) but then again he did just get a brand-new WOZRR so there's plenty to be happy about for him too!

Do you know what the voltage should read?

So, if I understand you correctly, there are two sets of holes for both the post and the metal guide. To move the post to the right hole, I must move the guide to the left holes? Correct?

Thanks for the picture. I think it makes sense now. I could not see any additional hole for the guide since they are covered up by the bracket.

Did you see the picture I posted with the holes circled (not sure if you're mobile or not)? Remove the plastic that covers that area, remove the screw holding the ball guide down and then push the ball guide inward towards the middle of the PF (or to the right if you prefer) slowly and you will see another hole there. Hold the ball guide in place above that hole and fasten it down with the same screw. You can now move the post to the right hole and then re-install the plastic.

I don't remember if the Topper LED strip is 6 or 12 VDC but I bet @LTG or @pinballomatic knows.

Pretty sure it's all 12v.

That's what I thought and I think it shares a circuit / fuse with the Spotlights which is why I asked about them in my first reply.

Thanks for the assistance. I believe I understand your instructions concerning the post and guide. I will look at that later tonight.

Emailing with Stephen at JJP about the topper lights. 13.8 volts and the fuses appear to be working. I think it is the led strip not working since there is voltage.

Thanks to all for your assistance with my issues guys! Thumbs Up

Device test was a loose connector.

@bobukcat provided the picture which should solve the post issue.

And...I think the topper led strip is not working. The connector is getting 13.8 volts. The backbox led strip is receiving 12 volts. Fuses look good. Stephen @ JJP was emailing me about the topper. I will wait for word from him about it. The start button flashes and according to Stephen it is the same circuit as the topper. Again, makes me suspect the led strip.

Game is beautiful and I think it might be a keeper.

Just received out 75th anniversary #1337 from the new run today. I have not yet un-boxed the pin. hoping I do not have any issues as other have had. Was told the monitor and computer on the latest "batch" of ruby red is mounted the same as the yellow brick road. I did find it interesting that the set up sheet that was sent shows the Wonka Machine on it!!! Anything I should look for when opening it up?

If relevant to LukyDuck's efforts:

I'm owner #2. Owner #1 had the game for years.
When I first turned it on after moving it to my home, the backbox did not light up.

Simple problem of one of the pins in the cable connector having backed out juuuuuust a little. Simple reseat (push) of the pin into the housing & it was fine.
Sounds similar to your topper problem, & the Start button problem that you fixed. Perhaps that's what's behind your dark topper.

Good luck!

Thanks,
-Jason

Thanks for the information. Stephen from JJP and I have determined it is the led strip that is bad. He is going to get a new one sent out.

It is and it will be!

Funny, I just received my RR and I saw the WW instructions also.

Here is something I would do.

Turn off your machine and grab the backbox keys and unlock it. Slide up the panel and place it somewhere safe. Grab the monitor on both sides and pull forward. There are two strong magnets holding it in place. The monitor can be swung to the side of the machine. It’s on a monitor mount attached to the backbox. Double check all of the connectors to ensure they are flush with the board. I had a few that were not completely seated and gave me an issue. I also would look at all of the fuses and make sure they are good. The cables are really tight and some are pulling the bundles to one side or the other.

Check you plumb bob and adjust it. Mine was slightly off after I leveled the machine both front to back and side to side.

Wax the play field.

ENJOY IT!

Just curious, but are these new RR's coming with the monkey mech? I heard that they were, but I'm not sure I ever saw a definitive answer.

I broke one of these rubbers. Any idea what they are called and where to find them ?

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I broke one of those damned things doing the 2.0 swap too, the whole top of mine snapped off so I used a little rubber cement to re-connect it. So far so good but they really should include a couple of those in the kit.

Yes, they come with the Monkey! They are part of the original 1,500.

The only thing I believe I didn’t receive was the Color Owners Manual. They should drop the item from the list if they are not going to include it and the price by $100. I would have liked to have it, personally.

Here is something else I would do.

Navigate to the Devices Test (i.e. Moneky test, house test, witch test, etc.) section of the game. Run them and make sure they work as expected. I had to adjust the spinning house in order to get the feet/legs to show properly. It took a bunch of time playing with the settings for it to work right. I am glad I adjusted it now so that I know it should work properly IF I ever get to that part in the game.

Contact them and see if they’ll send it to you.

Those things are cursed. I would just ask them to send you a replacement or two . . . or three. I’m sure they will.

I have thought about it and might do that tomorrow. At least just ask if it is supposed to come with it since it is advertised on their website as included.

Yeah Ill try that. I put the playfield back, the led board is wiggly but at least I can finish the 2.0 job.

That munchkin pf is a hassle to take off, I thought it would be a breeze after the castle one but it was the opposite.

Dammit I thought I was done with cabling and put some zip ties everywhere, I was even proud of myself until i saw the pf signs connector hanging and realize I need to cut a good 20 zip ties and get him on the other side of the playfield to board 7

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Having done both the Munchkin and castle playfields twice now, I’m not sure which one is harder. I do know that when I did my 2.0 conversion, I spent about 30-45 minutes trying to get that @#$* rubber stand off through the hole in the rainbow plastic. I eventually waxed the tip and twisted it through. But first I tried pulling it with a needle nose pliers and got similar results as you. .

I took a small screw driver and pushed the tip up on one side from below and then it snapped into position. 5 seconds.

LTG : )

I used some needle nose pliers to grab the tip and pull through. Went quite easily with a little light wiggling.

Thank you for the advice, I will definitely do this. I cant wait to get it set up and have some fun. Thanks again!

Got ya! A lot more going on with this sucker than our ghostbusters!!

We broke the same rubber on the munchkinland in our 2.0 swap. This part needs to be included in the kit IMO.

I just push the tip through the hole and using the flesh of my thumb rub the nub back and forth till it pops through.

And then a cold shower? Or does it progress from there?

Just a nibble on the nubble..

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