Maybe just replace the audio cables if they are flakey, I did.

Yep, one of my thoughts as well. I'll try that first since it worked for you. Often those thick RCA cables work themselves out of the plugs in all sorts of equipment because they don't have a lot of flex. Just saving my "fix WOZ audio" deal for a rainy day. After a week spent fixing/tinkering/testing rather than playing, just want to pour some drinks and play this weekend.

For those of you that don't read Gouviea's WOZ Witch and Monkey mod thread regularly, he just announced that his 3rd WOZ mod is coming (no idea what it is yet). But with how amazing his first 2 are, and the fact that they are both done and there is a HUGE list of people still wanting them, you may want to get over to the thread and keep an eye on it!!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-witch-red-smoke-mod/page/52#post-5227495

Does anyone have pics on how to hook up pinstadium to WOZ?

Thanks Lloyd ! You might hear from me (or not !)

https://pinstadium.com/installation-instructions-pin-stadiums/#1519802076839-367a5f23-f38f

Scroll down. Click on step 1, step 2, step 3, etc. Pretty simple.

LTG : )

Here is a video i made for RRWOZ if that helps.

Have a new problem with my woz rr. On every new ball, the trough is ejecting two balls. Once one of the balls drains during play after the ball save is over, the machine thinks that play is over and acts like that first ball is over (i.e. gives bonus, flippers stop, etc) and moves on to the next the ball. My guess is there must be a sensor issue that thinks that a ball has not been ejected and ejects another ball. I looked underneath the playfield and everything looked okay in terms of wires. Thanks for the help.

Shooter lane switch needs adjusting, repair, replacement etc...

I already fixed it but thanks for the help. Somehow there were 6 balls in there but I haven't put in any new balls in a month or two. Really crazy. When I did a winkie guard mod a month ago i replaced all 5 balls. I remember when I went to throw out the old balls I could only find four and I thought I was losing my mind. I think my 5 year old daughter must have placed a ball in the machine somewhere not in play when I wasn't looking and all of the sudden it came into play today after a month or two. That is the only thing that makes sense, but I don't know where it would hide all this time. I think the wicked witch had something to do with it.

Sometimes s ball will hide behind the monkey in the square metal area behind the backboard.

They roll in there if you raise the playfield while a ball is captive.

If you had a standard WOZ with stainless rails/bar/legs, what color would you choose to powder coat it? (If you did). It seems the obvious choices are ruby red sparkle, emerald green sparkle or yellow-gold. It’s probably just a matter of personal choice, but I’m just wondering what you guys think. I have a new powder coat company I’m going to try. They can do any color.

I wouldnt myself due to the cost difference.

Lol, you guys are insane. I would never pay $200 bucks for that. Its cool and all, but no thanks!

Pinballgoddess was not impressed by it.

So the $200 goes towards a shaker motor for her Doctor Who instead.

I believe you can get them for less that $200...

I'm getting the pinsound one.

$189+shipping

yea, the ones I was looking at are for newer machines I believe from Pinballlife.com.

Regardless, yes, shakers are needed!

Is that really $200? Or are you talking about the witch mod?

So I'm about to start (as in today), the 2.0 upgrade, I've read the (well put) installation guide a couple times, I'm not too worried about doing the job now, except the drilling part but it is a good idea to put some tape on the drill bit.

I have a question regarding cutting the wire connectors, it looks like the only reason is to avoid cutting too many wire ties. But since I'm hoping to keep my 1.0 lightning kit complete, I'm wondering if it's not better to cut the wire tie, remove the wire, and put back another wire tie right away. I see it easier than having to put back every single connector once the job is done.

Any advice ?

Put one of these on the 1/16" drill bit, way better than tape:

https://www.motionrc.com/products/dubro-dura-collars-1-16-4-pack

Save as much of the old wiring as you like. Not much more work.

LTG : )

No, its really $200.. $189 plus shipping.

Do you guys wax underneath the upper playfields? And if so, how do you do that? Seems almost impossible unless you remove them, and thats a PITA.

Remove them. Instructions are in the manual. Not that bad, castle one takes a little time the first time. Then you have good access for cleaning, waxing, inspecting or replacing rubber rings.

If you need the instructions, you can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - WOZ.

LTG : )

Cleaning WOZ is pretty easy.

Vacuum out hard to reach places with a micro adapter kit.

I use a mist n shine dampened flannel cloth pushed through the alleys with a wooden spoon handle. Rolled up paper towel also works.

Followed by a dry one.

Keeping it clean is more important than wax.

Installing the 2.0 kit has been fairly smooth so far, I’m actually even enjoying it !

I removed the old wires and harness and installed all the big boards, today I’m starting to drill.
My 5 years old son has been helping me on the way, I got him to cut the connectors (and hid the cutting pliers right after in case he woke up early this morning and felt like « helping » me more.

The instructions are super clear and they don’t show just what to do but also what not to do, some of the don’t wouldn’t have hit my mind for a second so kudos to everyone who wrote these instructions.

You are a very wise person!

I have a (minor) problem installing the 2.0 kit. I’m at mounting the BAG board on the bracket. The instructions says to tighten firmly the board but I cant because of the big white connector at the bottom, the solder parts are too long.
Do I need to get some spacers or do I need to mount it on the other side that has spacers ?

6FA01AA3-BF56-447A-B980-D48AAB4F16D4 (resized).jpeg

AF6A557E-2686-423E-8724-43738092D202 (resized).jpeg

You absolutely need spacers. The instructions show nylon spacers for each screw attaching the board to the bracket. Page 2 of the packing list also clearly shows that board with the spacers already attached to it.

Fortunately, I'm sure Ace Hardware will have something that will work for less than a buck total tomorrow.

(Click on the image below to see the full packing list PDF)
WOZ 2_0 Lighting Upgrade Kit Packing List.pdf

I don’t have these spacers on my board, Ill go get some. Thanks !

Found myself some spacers !

87EF1A05-F39B-4DC4-A622-2243BED01891 (resized).jpeg

The moment I realize I need a break.
My power supply doesnt have the short wire between -V and GND, so I was about to take my car and go back to the hardware store, slightly cursing on myself for another ride.

I went to get my keys on the table and saw this....

A0809F0C-7932-40CB-9BAA-841FBAA28BFB (resized).jpeg

That is quite the task! Wow.

I have thought about wrapping microfiber around something like a wooden spoon but didnt think it would fit through due to the turns under both playfields. Guess I will be giving that a shot in future.

I need help again, Im plugging the new power supply, I don’t understand where to plug the power wires.

Instructions say to plug it where the blk-vio was plugged but the new cable has a female connector where the one I removed had a male connector.

908365A3-4498-4A3C-9A51-89BD586B0163 (resized).jpeg

Nevermind, I found it

Just reading your updates I'm shaking my head saying wow jjp wtf. Who wants to spend time on this. Such a shame.

Good luck though looks like you're getting through and almost done

I have mixed feelings about it. Yes it’s unfortunate that I have to do that and quite frankly if I could have avoided it I would have.

But I’m thankful that JJP came with a definitive fix for that problem, it’s not that common in many industries.
The kit is expensive but you get a lot for the money, I doubt they earn a dime on it, they might even lose some, and the kit is super well put, everything comes well together. I’ve built some diy electronic kits before it was way less smooth.

And in the end, although I’m not done it’s surely the best pinball maintenance bootcamp I’ve ever been through, I’ll be able to take care of my pinball from now on (Provided that it doesnt burn when I turn it on but we shall see that tomorrow !)

Yeah, that's exactly where the jumper sire for mine came from.

new_power_supply_wiring (resized).jpg

If you're into electronics, it's actually not that bad, and if you're NOT into electronics, you might be by the time you get done. The instructions are well-written enough that pretty much anyone can do this now. Totally worth it.

I agree with this sentiment. Having been through this ordeal, it was a fantastic learning experience.

I can also see Delt’s point here. It was very time consuming. I guess if anyone reading this is still on the fence about doing the project, just know it’ll take a lot of time (if you’ve not tackled something like this before. Something like a week of after work hours and an entire weekend) and patience. In the end, you get a machine that works without issues and the pride of having accomplished a fairly daunting task (for those of us non-technical people).

Anyone have or know where I can get an extra Winkie Drop Target decal? Mine was scrapping on a lip and while i was able to fix it with some clear tape, want to fix it for good.

I always have to slice off about 3/16" off the bottom of the drop target decals to keep them from bunching up.

The goody bag might have a spare, mine did.

Yes, that exactly what happened. The clear tape seemed to fix it but...

Ahhh yes, I forgot about the goodie bag. I will have to check that. Good idea..

Can someone tell me the size of the metal screws that hold the castle playfield to the metal poles ?

When removing it last night I realized it was missing one screw

Take one out and hit the hardware store to see what works. Probably 8/32nds.

I wouldn't worry about it. Many were minus a screw or two and still work fine.

LTG : )

Just received an RR #708. Yea!

Now I cannot figure out how to get any of the Device Tests to run. I can navigate to the device tests menu. I can change between tests, but none of the tests will run. I have tried them with the door closed and with the safety interlock pulled out. Nothing seems to make the test run. Manual does not work. Auto does not work.

What am I doing wrong? The manual does not mention how to activate the tests.

Thanks

Press the "start" button to run the tests.