(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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There are 9535 posts in this topic. You are on page 179 of 191.
#8901 76 days ago

Are RR’s available NIB? I am still new to WOZ and whether they are available or not.

#8902 76 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

To complete the above, I personally don't care if they stick to 1500 units or not, I didn't buy my RR because it was limited, I bought it because it was the last NIB WOZ that I could find.
Also I think limited has value for very limited games like Alien, TBL, BBB etc... I don't think it changes anything in resell value when produced in thousand(s)

The more the better sparepart wise for the future.

#8903 76 days ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Are RR’s available NIB? I am still new to WOZ and whether they are available or not.

Yes, it appears there is a new "limited" (whatever the hell that means anymore with regards to JJP) run of RRs and at least one distributor (Flip N Out) posted on FB that they had one available.

#8904 75 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

I would consider the only LE of WoZ to be the ECLE and the direct print version being the ultimate version

I agree but have a preference for the RR. I think my ultimate version would be a mashup of the RR with the YBR playields and the direct print cabinet.
Of course the gouveia designed/built winged monkey and witch well would also need to be installed along with the cliffy munchkin playfield protector.

#8905 75 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Just saw a post from Flip-N-Out that they have one of the new RRs available and it does have the Monkey Mech still, so two questions answered there. He did not post a price of course.

Thats interesting because a distributor told me they wouldnt have them. So either he wanted me to buy what I bought or the picture of the new RR is a picture of the older edition?

#8906 75 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Thats interesting because a distributor told me they wouldnt have them. So either he wanted me to buy what I bought or the picture of the new RR is a picture of the older edition?

Or it was uncertain if this new run would have them and your disti assumed or was told they wouldn't include the Monkey, there seemed to be a lot of uncertainty about this and I'm guessing it's because JJP never really said for certain one way or the other. Zach says he has the game in his possession so I trust him when he says it includes the Monkey.

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#8907 75 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Or it was uncertain if this new run would have them and your disti assumed or was told they wouldn't include the Monkey, there seemed to be a lot of uncertainty about this and I'm guessing it's because JJP never really said for certain one way or the other. Zach says he has the game in his possession so I trust him when he says it includes the Monkey.[quoted image]

Yup, I agree especially if they have it in possession like that.

#8908 75 days ago

So I have the PinStadiums on my machine, and upgraded to 7.01, they kept resetting back to factory settings, you could see them dim get and turn off and on during the game when they should not have. Tried going to new lights for control and the behavior did not change. Upgraded to 7.02 and sure enough the problem went away. I have an early build sharing for anybody else having this problem.

#8909 74 days ago

My WOZ will not boot up I get stuck with this screen. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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#8910 74 days ago

Have you pressed F2? J/K.

I would reinstall the code but im really have no idea with that one...

#8911 74 days ago

Thank guys for the info on my monkey! Haha glad to know it still works it is a bit older but is still strongly functioning

#8912 74 days ago
Quoted from BigT:

My WOZ will not boot up I get stuck with this screen. Any help will be greatly appreciated.[quoted image]

I think you need to replace your CR2032 battery in the CPU, but you will need to attached a keyboard and Hit F1. This is from what I remember a sign that the battery is going bad. Instruction in the manual on how to replace it so you don't loose your settings, or have other problems.

#8913 74 days ago

We purchased a new RR last week... due tomorrow

"Are RR’s available NIB? I am still new to WOZ and whether they are available or not.

#8914 74 days ago
Quoted from Bearcat:

We purchased a new RR last week... due tomorrow
blockquote cite="#5219822">Are RR’s available NIB? I am still new to WOZ and whether they are available or not.

They are running another production either now or very soon.

#8915 74 days ago

Question about backing up your settings on a USB drive.

If I backup my info on a USB stick, can I use that same stick for updating the game code? Basically saying, the backup save data would be on the stick as well as the game code for installation.

Wasnt sure if the machine would get confused by that?

#8916 74 days ago
Quoted from Bearcat:

Are RR’s available NIB?

Great question. The lore has been that the NIB RR's were sold out. JJP has recently announced they are making more RR's. Depending on where you have sourced your game you are most likely getting one of the new run. If you are buying from The Pinball Company or Pinballs.com/Automated Services you may be getting an older, yet still NIB RR.

Review the mfg date on your machine when you get it.
If you have something that was made this summer you are good. If you have something that was made in 2017 or earlier at a minimum you should demand your distributor and JJP provide you with the new 2.0 light boards. You shouldn't pay market price for the old version of the lighting system. I would go so far as to try not to unbox it until you know which version you get.

In general when buying NIB the best protection you can avail yourself of is buying from a proven home use distributor.

(Gets soapbox out of the closet and climbs on it.)

There is much history about dealing with a few large distributors - my advice is to avoid them. Instead deal with the folks below. They will do you right and will shoot you straight.

(In no particular order)
https://www.kingpingames.net - Wisconsin
http://www.pinballstar.com/ - Pennsylvania
https://gameexchange.biz/ - Colorado
http://www.abelelectronics.com/ - Michigan

Give these people a call, if you get a tool on the phone take your business elsewhere. I guarantee you there are way more good distributors than bad ones.
These machines are expensive and you should be treated with courtesy.
When you get someone you like, research them on Pinside and the web. Get the feedback. Then buy your game.

#8917 74 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Question about backing up your settings on a USB drive.
If I backup my info on a USB stick, can I use that same stick for updating the game code? Basically saying, the backup save data would be on the stick as well as the game code for installation.
Wasnt sure if the machine would get confused by that?

In the case of delta updates I have never had an issue using the same stick for both. But I do make sure that the USB is wiped before installing the delta update to it, then the backup, then install the update, then restore the backup.

In the case of a new image you definitely are going to want/need to use a second USB stick for the backup.

#8918 74 days ago
Quoted from coz6:

I think you need to replace your CR2032 battery in the CPU, but you will need to attached a keyboard and Hit F1. This is from what I remember a sign that the battery is going bad. Instruction in the manual on how to replace it so you don't loose your settings, or have other problems.

Yep, almost certainly a dead battery causing that error. Should be no need to reload software afterwards.

#8919 74 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Yep, almost certainly a dead battery causing that error. Should be no need to reload software afterwards.

Can't you replace the battery and then hit the Reset button provided you have one as well? Its been a few years since I had this problem but I did not need a keyboard attached once I got my issues fixed.

#8920 74 days ago
Quoted from coz6:

Can't you replace the battery and then hit the Reset button provided you have one as well? Its been a few years since I had this problem but I did not need a keyboard attached once I got my issues fixed.

Probably.
It should figure it out.

If not, hook up a keyboard.

#8921 74 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

If I backup my info on a USB stick, can I use that same stick for updating the game code?

I wouldn't. Updates should be a separate stick with nothing else on them.

LTG : )

#8922 74 days ago

We did buy a new RR last week, it shipped directly from JJP

Quoted from fnosm:

Great question. The lore has been that the NIB RR's were sold out. JJP has recently announced they are making more RR's. Depending on where you have sourced your game you are most likely getting one of the new run. If you are buying from The Pinball Company or Pinballs.com/Automated Services you may be getting an older, yet still NIB RR.
Review the mfg date on your machine when you get it.
If you have something that was made this summer you are good. If you have something that was made in 2017 or earlier at a minimum you should demand your distributor and JJP provide you with the new 2.0 light boards. You shouldn't pay market price for the old version of the lighting system. I would go so far as to try not to unbox it until you know which version you get.
In general when buying NIB the best protection you can avail yourself of is buying from a proven home use distributor.
(Gets soapbox out of the closet and climbs on it.)
There is much history about dealing with a few large distributors - my advice is to avoid them. Instead deal with the folks below. They will do you right and will shoot you straight.
(In no particular order)
https://www.kingpingames.net - Wisconsin
http://www.pinballstar.com/ - Pennsylvania
https://gameexchange.biz/ - Colorado
http://www.abelelectronics.com/ - Michigan
Give these people a call, if you get a tool on the phone take your business elsewhere. I guarantee you there are way more good distributors than bad ones.
These machines are expensive and you should be treated with courtesy.
When you get someone you like, research them on Pinside and the web. Get the feedback. Then buy your game.

#8923 74 days ago

Question for anyone that has pin stadiums on their WOZ and installed the hovers already. Can you post pics of where you mounted the hovers on each side? I have been scratching my head as to where to mount the hovers due to the castle playfield, etc... Figured I would ask if anyone has come up with a solution already so I don't have to reinvent the wheel.

Thanks in advance!

#8924 74 days ago

Ok...I looked through my manual and didn’t find instructions on how to replace the battery. Where would I find it in my manual?

Thanks

#8925 74 days ago
Quoted from BigT:

Ok...I looked through my manual and didn’t find instructions on how to replace the battery. Where would I find it in my manual?
Thanks

1. Lift the playfield. You'll see a large metal box.

2. VACUUM OFF ALL OF THE LOOSE METAL BITS ON THAT METAL BOX that accumulate over time.

3. Loosen the two thumb screws on the left of the box and remove the cover.

4. You'll see the circuit boards. Top right board (I think) is the motherboard. You'll see a button cell battery.

5. Replace it!

#8926 74 days ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

1. Lift the playfield. You'll see a large metal box.
2. VACUUM OFF ALL OF THE LOOSE METAL BITS ON THAT METAL BOX that accumulate over time.
3. Loosen the two thumb screws on the left of the box and remove the cover.
4. You'll see the circuit boards. Top right board (I think) is the motherboard. You'll see a button cell battery.
5. Replace it!

How long after you purchase the pinball machine should you replace the battery?

#8927 74 days ago
Quoted from monte_:

How long after you purchase the pinball machine should you replace the battery?

Mine normally last 4 to 7 years but I think the guidance is 3 to 5.

#8928 74 days ago

The instructions for replacing the battery are in the manual. Find them and follow them. I believe they are in section E if I'm not mistaken. You need to use some masking tape to ensure you get the battery out without dropping it. Also, (something the instructions don't say), mind the whirring fan blade. I cut my finger when I did it.

#8929 74 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I believe they are in section E

You are right. Page E-13 in the manual.

If you don't have it, you can download it from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - WOZ

LTG : )

#8930 74 days ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I'm sure there are other motherboards you can use that are around the same age. I'm by no means a computer science expert, but It really depends on the kernel of Linux they used and library dependencies.
Its the same thing with RFM, you can't buy a pc today and expect it to work. unless you find a slightly older kernel that works with both hardware/software dependencies. That is unless you can reverse engineer the JJP WOZ build and compile it with another more recent version of whatever it is they are using.

It's the kernel and motherboard chipset that matter the most. But the further we get away from the chipset in WoZ and its successor in Hobbit with Intel chipsets (Intel H61 in WoZ, Intel H81 Express in Hobbit and after), the more likely it will be that a board will not work or may work with issues.

#8931 74 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

I wouldn't. Updates should be a separate stick with nothing else on them.
LTG : )

Figured as much. Thanks!

#8932 73 days ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

1. Lift the playfield. You'll see a large metal box.
2. VACUUM OFF ALL OF THE LOOSE METAL BITS ON THAT METAL BOX that accumulate over time.
3. Loosen the two thumb screws on the left of the box and remove the cover.
4. You'll see the circuit boards. Top right board (I think) is the motherboard. You'll see a button cell battery.
5. Replace it!

Thank you!

#8933 73 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's the kernel and motherboard chipset that matter the most. But the further we get away from the chipset in WoZ and its successor in Hobbit with Intel chipsets (Intel H61 in WoZ, Intel H81 Express in Hobbit and after), the more likely it will be that a board will not work or may work with issues.

Has anyone reached out to JJP to ask what their plan is to address inevitable motherboard failure down the line? It worries me that we might be looking down the barrel of a situation like any old solid state game where motherboards have to be repaired on a component level or wait for a third party to build a custom replacement board.

#8934 73 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Has anyone reached out to JJP to ask what their plan is to address inevitable motherboard failure down the line? It worries me that we might be looking down the barrel of a situation like any old solid state game where motherboards have to be repaired on a component level or wait for a third party to build a custom replacement board.

Was just curious about this as well. Because the motherboards they used, for one, are about gone and what is left are inflated prices.

#8935 73 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

You are right. Page E-13 in the manual.
If you don't have it, you can download it from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - WOZ
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd...I was looking in the spiral owners manual.

#8936 73 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Has anyone reached out to JJP to ask what their plan is to address inevitable motherboard failure down the line? It worries me that we might be looking down the barrel of a situation like any old solid state game where motherboards have to be repaired on a component level or wait for a third party to build a custom replacement board.

So it shouldn't actually be a big problem if JJP handles it correctly. The chipset architecture will be compatible for ages... the code will run. But it will be on JJP to update their game image with modern drivers for newer boards (that the board manufacturer releases for them) so those ISOs install correctly. A relatively easy task if they actually do it.

#8937 73 days ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

So it shouldn't actually be a big problem if JJP handles it correctly. The chipset architecture will be compatible for ages... the code will run. But it will be on JJP to update their game image with modern drivers for newer boards (that the board manufacturer releases for them) so those ISOs install correctly. A relatively easy task if they actually do it.

What mainboard is in the current RR release?

#8938 73 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What mainboard is in the current RR release?

My RR from last year is MSI H81M-P33. I have a couple extra boards. Same board in my DILE.

#8939 73 days ago
Quoted from avspin:

My RR from last year is MSI H81M-P33. I have a couple extra boards. Same board in my DILE.

Thats the same board as in my hobbit.

#8940 73 days ago

So it sounds like they are going to have to be up on this if multiple games are using the same hardware.

#8941 73 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Was just curious about this as well. Because the motherboards they used, for one, are about gone and what is left are inflated prices.

I wouldnt worry too much about finding boards even in a decade. The format is standard, the chipset is fairly standard and the parts that fails the most are surface components.

Wether on the NOS or 2nd hand market you will find some.

#8942 73 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

I wouldnt worry too much about finding boards even in a decade. The format is standard, the chipset is fairly standard and the parts that fails the most are surface components.
Wether on the NOS or 2nd hand market you will find some.

Yeah..
x86, HDMI, USB... We are good. If they need to, they'll just throw a few modern drivers into the ISO that are provided by the board manufacturer. It's a trivial thing. I can still install Windows 95 on a modern laptop

#8943 73 days ago

Thank you thor the help...the masking tape method did not work for me. I put a dab of hot glue on a small plastic dowel and the battery popped out.

63D033B7-7A8D-4727-9601-859F3361179B (resized).jpeg
#8944 73 days ago

New game is all set up, but getting a Trough Error... any ideas?

image (resized).jpg
#8945 73 days ago

Check connectors to ball trough. And to opto driver board. And the big metal box on the floor of the game with the boards, connectors on the rear are on inside and outside of the box, push the switch line wires in firmly on both sides.

LTG : )

#8946 72 days ago

My 2.0 upgrade kit is almost there, hopefully it arrives tonight so I can get on it this weekend. I am scared, the task looks daunting, but I'm excited !

#8947 72 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

My 2.0 upgrade kit is almost there, hopefully it arrives tonight so I can get on it this weekend. I am scared, the task looks daunting, but I'm excited !

Good luck! I agree, its extremely involved and not something I would want to be doing.

#8948 72 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

I am scared,

Don't be. Time consuming, yes. Hard, no. If you can cut out an old wire or turn a screw. You'll be fine. If you ever changed a LED board in your game, you'll be better than fine.

If need be. Take a break. Don't forge ahead no matter what. That is how you F stuff up.

LTG : )

#8949 72 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

My 2.0 upgrade kit is almost there, hopefully it arrives tonight so I can get on it this weekend. I am scared, the task looks daunting, but I'm excited !

Honestly, the scariest part is when you cut the first data cable and realize there's no going back. After that, it is just following step by step instructions. Definitely take Lloyd's advice and take a break if you need to. I spread it out over three weekends -- six days -- and took plenty of breaks.

#8950 72 days ago

My god this video was a lifesaver, and cheers to my wife for finding it while I was in the gameroom cursing up a storm trying to figure out how to simply change out a broken upper slingshot rubber without taking Munchkinland off entirely. I'm sure this is elsewhere in this thread, but just putting it here in case a new WOZ owner (or someone who hasn't had to change the upper slingshot rubber before) runs into this issue.

But of course, every time the playfield goes up/out, it's a 50/50 chance the voice part of the audio gets knocked out, and it did again. Tried to crimp the white RCA plug to fit tighter on the sleeve, didn't fix it. Who knows. My Jersey Jack luck has been terrible this week. Multiple failing mechs on a brand new August built Wonka, this rubber on WOZ breaks in the middle of a game and at first looked like an hours-long project just to change it, I fix that but then the voice audio dies, I'm afraid to turn my Hobbit on lest it go up in flames. And not those really cool game over flames, either.

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