Quoted from PinMonk:Just checked. It's not newegg themselves but a newegg seller. There are two vendors with new boards @$168 and two with used boards @ $66.
Thanks!
(Topic ID: 87617)
Linked Games
Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013-
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019
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Quoted from Rager170:I highly doubt future motherboards would be incompatible with what is running today.
Any computer experts out there to chime in on this?
The pricing for this MSI mobo is really inflated. I would imagine there are cheaper options that can work just fine.
Code updates ensure that newer parts like what is in hobbit will function, in a pinch.
San Francisco, CA
Quoted from Skyemont:What does "The Pinball Company" have to do with your lights going out?
I ordered a NIB 2.0 from them and asked specifically to confirm it was a 2.0. This was last year and WOZ was sold out almost everywhere.
And guess what ?
I received a 1.2 born 11/2016, likely one of the last non 2.0 produced
You may wonder why I didnt return it, well it was such a hassle to get it, move it inside etc. that I didn’t felt doing it, and I was unaware of the issues attached to the previous light boards.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Code updates ensure that newer parts like what is in hobbit will function, in a pinch.
ahhh very good point.
Found an error in my 2.0 light system last night. Either the castle cables were labeled wrong or the rgb cable map is printed wrong. Either way, it resulted in my wiring the lights for the search insert and the adjacent gi light backwards. This explains why my search insert had been lit constantly since the conversion! (Wasn't there someone else here who was having this issue?) Heads up to those who follow. I recommend holding off on fully reinstalling the castle playfield until you can test to ensure that everything is correct in test mode.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Found an error in my 2.0 light system last night. Either the castle cables were labeled wrong or the rgb cable map is printed wrong. Either way, it resulted in my wiring the lights for the search insert and the adjacent gi light backwards. This explains why my search insert had been lit constantly since the conversion! (Wasn't there someone else here who was having this issue?) Heads up to those who follow. I recommend holding off on fully reinstalling the castle playfield until you can test to ensure that everything is correct in test mode.
I vaguely remember making this mistake when I did it, too, but I tested each insert before re-attaching the upper playfield because it's such an uncooperative bitch. Caught and corrected it there.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Found an error in my 2.0 light system last night. Either the castle cables were labeled wrong or the rgb cable map is printed wrong. Either way, it resulted in my wiring the lights for the search insert and the adjacent gi light backwards. This explains why my search insert had been lit constantly since the conversion! (Wasn't there someone else here who was having this issue?) Heads up to those who follow. I recommend holding off on fully reinstalling the castle playfield until you can test to ensure that everything is correct in test mode.
Key post! How do we do that?
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Key post! How do we do that?
Which post?
The castle playfield? Or the un-coopertive bitch (I'll see if there's a pic of my ex-wife....)...
Quoted from pinballinreno:Which post?
The castle playfield? Or the un-coopertive bitch (I'll see if there's a pic of my ex-wife....)...
Funny
The 2.0 upgrade that #pinheadpierre made #8855.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Found an error in my 2.0 light system last night. Either the castle cables were labeled wrong or the rgb cable map is printed wrong. Either way, it resulted in my wiring the lights for the search insert and the adjacent gi light backwards. This explains why my search insert had been lit constantly since the conversion! (Wasn't there someone else here who was having this issue?) Heads up to those who follow. I recommend holding off on fully reinstalling the castle playfield until you can test to ensure that everything is correct in test mode.
I ordered my 2.0 kit in May but didn't get around to installing it until just recently. Butch at JJP says this was an error in the instructions that he has since corrected. So if you're ordering a kit now it sounds like it probably won't be an issue, but if you ordered your kit awhile ago and are sitting on it you might run into this.
Quoted from adol75:So I guess my tin man is dead but want to confirm.
Most likely. You could by pass #28 in case it isn't leaving data through, but most likely tinman is bad.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Most likely. You could by pass #28 in case it isn't leaving data through, but most likely tinman is bad.
LTG : )
At 270$ a board, I guess it's time for a 2.0 upgrade, I knew it would have to happen, I was just hoping for later !
Quoted from adol75:At 270$ a board, I guess it's time for a 2.0 upgrade, I knew it would have to happen, I was just hoping for later !
....or a set of used boards! (Insert shameless ad bump here.)
You’ve just shamelessly woke up my lazy gene !
Too late though, I went on JJP website and for once the 2.0 kit was available, I figured it was a sign so I ordered one.
But thanks to you I’ll lower my hopes of reselling my old board set with a dead tin man.
Quoted from Rager170:I highly doubt future motherboards would be incompatible with what is running today.
Any computer experts out there to chime in on this?
The pricing for this MSI mobo is really inflated. I would imagine there are cheaper options that can work just fine.
I'm sure there are other motherboards you can use that are around the same age. I'm by no means a computer science expert, but It really depends on the kernel of Linux they used and library dependencies.
Its the same thing with RFM, you can't buy a pc today and expect it to work. unless you find a slightly older kernel that works with both hardware/software dependencies. That is unless you can reverse engineer the JJP WOZ build and compile it with another more recent version of whatever it is they are using.
Quoted from adol75:You’ve just shamelessly woke up my lazy gene !
Too late though, I went on JJP website and for once the 2.0 kit was available, I figured it was a sign so I ordered one.
But thanks to you I’ll lower my hopes of reselling my old board set with a dead tin man.
Plan on installing additional gi lighting along with the 2.0 kit (unless you always play with considerable light in your game room). The 2.0 conversion makes the game absurdly dark. The plastics are barely lit, let alone the playfield.
Gerona
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Plan on installing additional gi lighting along with the 2.0 kit (unless you always play with considerable light in your game room). The 2.0 conversion makes the game absurdly dark. The plastics are barely lit, let alone the playfield.
The 2.0 boards have "less shiny" leds?
The insert lenses are fine. The general illumination, not so much. The following photos were taken in a very dimly lit room (so that they would show the playfield illumination from the game itself without much help from the room lights). This took some adjusting with my camera settings because modern cameras are really good at compensating for different light situations and making things look better than they really do. I feel that these are VERY close to what my game looks like in a dim room to the naked eye.
Here is a photo of the game in test mode with all of the leds (inserts and gi) set to white:
See how all of the inserts are nice and bright? Good, right? But look at the slingshots and the other plastics that have the gi lights under them. They are barely lit. Barely any light transmits through the plastics (I had to look under the brown one at the lower left of the playfield to see if the light was actually working). Almost no light makes it onto the playfield from the gi.
For the next photo, I toggled the test mode into gi only, again set to white.
Comparing the two, you can see that under the 2.0 system the game is really only lit by the ambient room lights and the inserts. Had I turned off the lights in my game room, you would not have been able to see the playfield art in the second photo at all.
I reached out to JJP about this. Butch looked into it and concluded that this is standard 2.0 light operation. He said that since the light tubes for the gi are not as efficient as the insert lenses at transmitting light, the gi lighting is always going to be dimmer than the inserts unless something can be done in code to allow the gi to be turned up. He said he would send a note to the code team about it.
Aside from the propensity to occasionally fail, I miss my original lighting.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:The insert lenses are fine. The general illumination, not so much. The following photos were taken in a very dimly lit room (so that they would show the playfield illumination from the game itself without much help from the room lights). This took some adjusting with my camera settings because modern cameras are really good at compensating for different light situations and making things look better than they really do. I feel that these are VERY close to what my game looks like in a dim room to the naked eye.
Here is a photo of the game in test mode with all of the leds (inserts and gi) set to white:
[quoted image]
See how all of the inserts are nice and bright? Good, right? But look at the slingshots and the other plastics that have the gi lights under them. They are barely lit. Barely any light transmits through the plastics (I had to look under the brown one at the lower left of the playfield to see if the light was actually working). Almost no light makes it onto the playfield from the gi.
For the next photo, I toggled the test mode into gi only, again set to white.
[quoted image]
Comparing the two, you can see that under the 2.0 system the game is really only lit by the ambient room lights and the inserts. Had I turned off the lights in my game room, you would not have been able to see the playfield art in the second photo at all.
I reached out to JJP about this. Butch looked into it and concluded that this is standard 2.0 light operation. He said that since the light tubes for the gi are not as efficient as the insert lenses at transmitting light, the gi lighting is always going to be dimmer than the inserts unless something can be done in code to allow the gi to be turned up. He said he would send a note to the code team about it.
Aside from the propensity to occasionally fail, I miss my original lighting.
They need a GI only adjustment..
Quoted from Vyzer2:After having purchased the 2.0 system, I hope they dont come out with a 3.0 system with brighter GI lights
Hopefully something can be done with software.
My thought exactly.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:The insert lenses are fine. The general illumination, not so much. The following photos were taken in a very dimly lit room (so that they would show the playfield illumination from the game itself without much help from the room lights). This took some adjusting with my camera settings because modern cameras are really good at compensating for different light situations and making things look better than they really do. I feel that these are VERY close to what my game looks like in a dim room to the naked eye.
Here is a photo of the game in test mode with all of the leds (inserts and gi) set to white:
[quoted image]
See how all of the inserts are nice and bright? Good, right? But look at the slingshots and the other plastics that have the gi lights under them. They are barely lit. Barely any light transmits through the plastics (I had to look under the brown one at the lower left of the playfield to see if the light was actually working). Almost no light makes it onto the playfield from the gi.
For the next photo, I toggled the test mode into gi only, again set to white.
[quoted image]
Comparing the two, you can see that under the 2.0 system the game is really only lit by the ambient room lights and the inserts. Had I turned off the lights in my game room, you would not have been able to see the playfield art in the second photo at all.
I reached out to JJP about this. Butch looked into it and concluded that this is standard 2.0 light operation. He said that since the light tubes for the gi are not as efficient as the insert lenses at transmitting light, the gi lighting is always going to be dimmer than the inserts unless something can be done in code to allow the gi to be turned up. He said he would send a note to the code team about it.
Aside from the propensity to occasionally fail, I miss my original lighting.
This is crazy! It's SO much darker with version 2.0 than the doomed (at some point) v1.1 that I have. Check out my pics I just took. It looks like I have pinstadium lights or something. It's stock, except for added leds around the pops. It really looks brighter in the older, flawed version. Am I wrong? (I do have the room lights on.)
IMG_0948 (resized).PNGIMG_0949 (resized).PNG
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yep, 2.0 system GI is not as bright.
Is it the 2.0 upgrade that’s not as bright or all the 2.0s ?
Quoted from adol75:Is it the 2.0 upgrade that’s not as bright or all the 2.0s ?
Good question!
Quick question, I have an original woz standard. Monkey works great and has always. If I upgrade code will it get rid of monkey? I think I’m on code 6.50
Thanks guys
Quoted from Bartzenegger:Quick question, I have an original woz standard. Monkey works great and has always. If I upgrade code will it get rid of monkey? I think I’m on code 6.50
Thanks guys
I just updated the code and my monkey still works.
Ok, those last few posts made me laugh. All this monkey business made me question if I was on pinside or a medical issues forum. I feel sorry for the first guy that posts his monkey is not working!
Quoted from LukyDuck:I feel sorry for the first guy that posts his monkey is not working!
When I get a tech call and they open with "my monkey isn't working", it is hard to not crack up.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:When I get a tech call and they open with "my monkey isn't working", it is hard to not crack up.
LTG : )
I would quickly have to hit my mute button! 
Quoted from LTG:When I get a tech call and they open with "my monkey isn't working", it is hard to not crack up.
LTG : )
First first question asked: is how long did you spank it. 
Quoted from LTG:When I get a tech call and they open with "my monkey isn't working", it is hard to not crack up.
LTG : )
Speaking of the monkey. I finally inspected mine Friday why finding the dead led board. He often doesnt catch balls anymore, the magnet catches them the ball falls when the monkey takes off.
The one thing that looked odd but no idea if it is, is that the magnet power cable is entirely lose, so I suspect that the back of the playfield pushed it and blocks it.
Is that cable supposed to be tied to something. A picture of how its supposed to look would be very helpful.
Quoted from Pinkitten:The JJP owners manual for WOZ clearly states, "if your monkey stops functioning properly, or is misbehaving, do NOT spank it." Pg. 81.
0EDE1CFA-10D7-4430-8385-7045A0A49C49 (resized).pngQuoted from Pinkitten:This is crazy! It's SO much darker with version 2.0 than the doomed (at some point) v1.1 that I have. Check out my pics I just took. It looks like I have pinstadium lights or something. It's stock, except for added leds around the pops. It really looks brighter in the older, flawed version. Am I wrong? (I do have the room lights on.)
[quoted image][quoted image]
In these pictures, it looks like all of the LEDs are very bright compared to my game, inserts as well.
Have you tried adjusting the led brightness to compensate?
Just saw a post from Flip-N-Out that they have one of the new RRs available and it does have the Monkey Mech still, so two questions answered there. He did not post a price of course.
Quoted from bobukcat:Just saw a post from Flip-N-Out that they have one of the new RRs available and it does have the Monkey Mech still, so two questions answered there. He did not post a price of course.
So I guess (or hope) the RR limited edition numbers are not consecutive, mine, birth date November 2016 has number 1491.
Quoted from adol75:So I guess (or hope) the RR limited edition numbers are not consecutive, mine, birth date November 2016 has number 1491.
The "Number of.." number on the special/limited edition plaques does not correlate to when it was produced.
Quoted from fnosm:The "Number of.." number on the special/limited edition plaques does not correlate to when it was produced.
So there is no way to tell if the RR is limited to 1500 units or not, unless we gather every single owner and every single number, which is likely impossible.
The remaining RR question is if it's true that they are no longer limited to 1500, not that 1500 is really that limited in today's world but it does kinda dilute the whole LE name tag if they did.
Quoted from bobukcat:The remaining RR question is if it's true that they are no longer limited to 1500, not that 1500 is really that limited in today's world but it does kinda dilute the whole LE name tag if they did.
Maybe 1500 LE's
But maybe unlimited Smaug SE's?
Who knows lol.
To complete the above, I personally don't care if they stick to 1500 units or not, I didn't buy my RR because it was limited, I bought it because it was the last NIB WOZ that I could find.
Also I think limited has value for very limited games like Alien, TBL, BBB etc... I don't think it changes anything in resell value when produced in thousand(s)
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