I’ve noticed that too, but during multiball I believe. I can hear a repetitive sound like a clicking, or something firing that I can’t identify. It stops after a few seconds. I’ve never figured it out.

I've never noticed, but I will listen for it next time.

Sounds like the smaller of two coils on your drop target assembly.

Drop target working ? Switch on it working right - closes when drop target is down opens when drop target is up ?

LTG : )

I've got a blown F713 fuse. The manual (for games after Oct 2013) calls for a 20mm 2A "time delay" (which I understand to mean "slow blow", but could be wrong). Neither Marco, nor Pinball Life, nor my local hardware store has these (though they have many things that are close).

Seems crazy that no one carries these, so I'm asking here as a sanity check and maybe I'm wrong about what I need?

Amazon is a good source. Cheap in multi-packs. Lowe’s carries them as well.

It is a slow blow.

Ebay is littered with them.

LTG : )

My 2c on the GI brightness of the 2.0 light conversion: I agree with others that have stated that the GI is noticeably less bright. Like others, I have double checked to ensure that all of the GI lights are centered over their tubes. I thought that maybe I had a cognitive bias since I had heard this from others in advance of doing the conversion, but I have had several non-pinhead people (who are totally unaware of this potential issue) play who had played it prior to the conversion and they ALL independently noticed that the game was darker.

Thanks for the help. I just ordered the fuses. Just surprised the two main pinball suppliers don't carry them...and was thinking maybe that meant I was looking for the wrong thing.

Darker? Didn't think that was possible.

Pinstadiums look great on this game... Just make sure to NOT put them on full blast otherwise it will oversaturate

Yes, it's not as bright.
Install 6 spotlights.

Spotlights, trough lights and a backboard light works very well.

Comet matrix system ROCKS!

Hi folks. Got an ECLE a few weeks ago. Just LOVE this game, it plays so much better at home than on location. It's a forever-keeper, I couldn't imagine ever parting with it. Really turned me into a JJP fan, too.

However, I've had a small litany of issues in those 3-4 weeks, most of which I've figured out and fixed myself or by searching through this thread, but here's one I'm still at a loss for: When I turn the machine on, the Oz plastic head above the throne room VUK is nice and bright and green. An hour later, it's dim. About two hours later it's so dim it's hard to tell the LEDs are even still on unless you stand directly over top of them. This is very consistent, happens every single time without fail. Also doesn't matter if I play 10 games in those two hours or zero, the dimming happens around the same times regardless.

Any ideas? I've searched through the thread and saw something about the LED strip possibly being off-center, but that's not my issue. Cheers.

When it's dim. Grab a meter and quick measure power to it. If it's 12 volts, it's the LED strip. If it drops below 12 volts, then I'd suspect a poor connection from the LED strip to the I/O board.

LTG : )

That's the route I was thinking about taking but I didn't know about the Comet matrix system. Those are some fair priced handy components! What color did you go with for trough lighting? Red? Warm white?

Purple trough, Warm white in a pinch.

And purple spots. 12v led spots hooked into the 12v GI. Its quick and easy.

Purple brings out the hidden shadowy figures in the artwork.

Its really nice and doesn't make anything look purple.

Interesting idea - purple was not in my mental list of obvious choices! Thanks for the suggestion.

I just learned about the 2.0 and the problems that plagued earlier light boards. Mine was made in 2015, and has rev1.1 boards. I checked JJPs site and the 2.0 upgrade kit was sold out. Does anyone know if they are planning on getting those back in stock?

You can order it - just email [email protected]

I tried all the colors in the spots.

They seemed to wash out the playfield colors a lot.

Purple, oddly gives off plenty of light, yet does not wash out the colors.

It also enhances the colors of things that were hard to see and brings them up a bit.

Thank you!

Question for you guys who have the haunted forest illumination mod. I installed this but one thing that annoys me is that you can see the reflection/glare of the LED's from the strip that is mounted under the upper playfield. Any solutions to stop that?

I don't have that mod, but in the past, I've used black nail polish (and other similar things) to paint the sides or bottoms of LEDs to make them more directional.

Left over from your goth days?

Ha!

Interesting.

Looking through my stash of lights, I've got a bunch of Comet 7smd 6.3v strips. Unless I'm mistaken, the convenient tie-in places on woz (topper, coin door, spotlights) are all 12v. Am I correct in thinking that I would either need a step down unit or 12v led strips? Looks like the Comet matrix stuff is 6.3v?

I'd do that. I wouldn't step anything down.

Ebay has rolls of that cheap.

LTG : )

Yes you gotta use 12v lights and strips.
They are easily added to the matrix connectors from comet.

I purchased the cliffy to protect the edges of the munchkin playfield and when I start looking at disassembly it's somewhat daunting. Has anyone done this and if so how bad was it?

Thanks

Directions are in the manual. Not hard. Screws and connectors and wiggle up and out.

LTG : )

I agree, it was fairly simple just be sure you feed all the cables and connectors all the way back through and make sure they are out of the way of the flipper mech and the ball path when you reinstall it.

I will look for those, thanks for all the responses.

Pay attention to that one screw above the orbit. Cliffy colors the hole with a marker to indicate that it gets the lower profile screw.

I bought the modfather protector for that. Much easier and im happy with the way it looks. https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/woz/products/woz-munchkinland-chrome-edge-protector

I praised the reliability of my light boards so well that I jinxed myself

I’ll deal with it but let’s face it, I hate you ThepinballCompany.com , I hate you so much that I don’t even know where to start !
1D6E309E-F449-407B-A10A-84E290556B19 (resized).jpeg

It's really only a matter of time.

I'm ordering a 2.0 kit just insurance reasons.

5,6 or 7 years is a lot for a PC and those led boards.

I have a replacement PC ready to go when the time comes etc...

I think I recall seeimg some links posted before but what PC motherboard are people buying as a replacement or a backup?

MSI/H81M-P33

I'm only seeing used ones for sale now. Are there any better options?

This is a great question. I was talking to some people the other day saying how pinball machines can last decades upon decades if cared for. Then they asked if this was the case for WOZ since it has a computer inside. Scratched my head and said, hmmmnnn im sure a replacement would be needed at some point.

Although, motherboards can last a long time. With PC's, its usually hard drive and other things failing.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813130731?Description=MSI%2fH81M-P33&cm_re=MSI%2fH81M-P33-_-13-130-731-_-Product

I would imagine there are several motherboards that would work as a replacement for this..

What does "The Pinball Company" have to do with your lights going out?

I did the same thing. Right after I posted on here that mine (7.5v system) were fine, boom, out. 2.0 kit fixed everything. Wasn’t really that bad. And I learned a lot during the install. Just time consuming. If you do the 2.0 system, like everyone says, just follow the well-written directions and use common sense and it’ll turn out fine.

Ebay has used for $40 and up. Newegg has new ones for like $150. They're out there.

I'll recheck Newegg. I though it listed them as out of stock.

Just checked. It's not newegg themselves but a newegg seller. There are two vendors with new boards @$168 and two with used boards @ $66.

Are there any other electronic/electrical parts will be unobtanium in the future that are reasonably "available" today?

I highly doubt future motherboards would be incompatible with what is running today.

Any computer experts out there to chime in on this?

The pricing for this MSI mobo is really inflated. I would imagine there are cheaper options that can work just fine.