(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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#8601 57 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I need to take a look at where my posts are in the outlanes, especially the left outlane. I checked my audits a few weeks ago and noticed how often TNPLH ball save is successful. I was stunned to see something like 3 successful saves out of maybe 200+ attempts. I have the settings on that ball save at easy, with a full minute to complete, with extra time awarded for shots made. I still drain 95% of the time before saving my ball. The only times I’ve saved it, it was by allowing progress to be saved and trying with a 2nd or 3rd ball. (I know, play better). I’m an ok player, especially on my own pins. Do others have this much trouble with the left ball save?

I’ve completed it only a handful of times, and I’m not sure I’ve ever done it on my first ball. TOTO is much easier. But since the ball is supposed to drain through an outlane, any chance to keep playing and save it, regardless of difficulty, is better than nothing. I just think of it as an extremely hard mini game that you get to play on the side.

#8602 57 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I’ve completed it only a handful of times, and I’m not sure I’ve ever done it on my first ball. TOTO is much easier. But since the ball is supposed to drain through an outlane, any chance to keep playing and save it, regardless of difficulty, is better than nothing. I just think of it as an extremely hard mini game that you get to play on the side.

One item of note is that you're also scoring some decent points in TNPLH so it's definitely worth your time, especially in later code revisions where your progress saves (or can be saved) between balls...I agree it's not easy, but I also agree that any chance to save a ball on this game is totally worth it as the outlanes are brutal lol

#8603 57 days ago

Is there a matrix of sorts that shows the differences between Emerald, Ruby Red, 75th and YBR versions?

#8604 57 days ago
Quoted from coz6:

Get rid of the loop wire see if the issues goes away. Then go with a different brand if you got your loop wires from JJ. I had nothing but problems on my WOZ when I had that brand in went with a different one and never a problem again.

thanks loop wire and sound board all jjp flawed nailed the wire down works great.....

#8605 57 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Is there a matrix of sorts that shows the differences between Emerald, Ruby Red, 75th and YBR versions?

The important differences are:

Emerald - sparkly green color scheme, has flying monkey, no sculpted castle walls (available as a mod), LE has topper, all original castle doors, 1.0 (bad) lighting system

Ruby Red - sparkly red color scheme, has flying monkey, all original castle doors, sculpted castle walls, tornado behind house, toto figurine, different topper, EARLY ones have 1.0, most of them have superior 2.0 lighting system

YBR - sparkly yellow color scheme, different topper, no flying monkey, one less castle door, 2.0 lighting system, headphone jack moved to cab at your knees instead of on coin door.

I still think the ECLE with the 2.0 lighting system is the best version. Add the flying sculpted monkey and you have the best of all worlds.

#8606 57 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

The important differences are:
Emerald - sparkly green color scheme, has flying monkey, LE has topper, all original castle doors, 1.0 (bad) lighting system
Ruby Red - sparkly red color scheme, has flying monkey, all original castle doors, different topper, EARLY ones have 1.0, most of them have superior 2.0 lighting system
YBR - sparkly yellow color scheme, different topper, no flying monkey, one less castle door, 2.0 lighting system, headphone jack moved to cab at your knees instead of on coin door.
I still think the ECLE with the 2.0 lighting system is the best version. Add the flying sculpted monkey and you have the best of all worlds.

@gouveia sadly stopped production of the sculpted monkey, so someone else must pick up that torch.

#8607 57 days ago

well boys sold my WOZLE today. it was the pin I'd had the longest in my collection. she's going to a good home and I plan on getting a JP Premium to replace her. Hope I don't regret that move!

#8608 57 days ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

well boys sold my WOZLE today. it was the pin I'd had the longest in my collection. she's going to a good home and I plan on getting a JP Premium to replace her. Hope I don't regret that move!

At least it was not a pet cat friend. Oops, wrong thread.

#8609 56 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

The important differences are:
Emerald - sparkly green color scheme, has flying monkey, LE has topper, all original castle doors, 1.0 (bad) lighting system
Ruby Red - sparkly red color scheme, has flying monkey, all original castle doors, different topper, EARLY ones have 1.0, most of them have superior 2.0 lighting system
YBR - sparkly yellow color scheme, different topper, no flying monkey, one less castle door, 2.0 lighting system, headphone jack moved to cab at your knees instead of on coin door.
I still think the ECLE with the 2.0 lighting system is the best version. Add the flying sculpted monkey and you have the best of all worlds.

Thanks for this write up!

#8610 56 days ago

I've just had the Throne room VUK opto's stopped working. Having switched connectors around on it's opto board I'm confident the opto's themselves are working and the fault is somehow on the board just involving the Throne room VUK connection at J7. Anyone seen this, solved this previously or have any idea how to fix it?

#8611 56 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

The important differences are:
Emerald - sparkly green color scheme, has flying monkey, LE has topper, all original castle doors, 1.0 (bad) lighting system
Ruby Red - sparkly red color scheme, has flying monkey, all original castle doors, different topper, EARLY ones have 1.0, most of them have superior 2.0 lighting system
YBR - sparkly yellow color scheme, different topper, no flying monkey, one less castle door, 2.0 lighting system, headphone jack moved to cab at your knees instead of on coin door.
I still think the ECLE with the 2.0 lighting system is the best version. Add the flying sculpted monkey and you have the best of all worlds.

I'd add that the standards did not have sculpted castle walls nor the Tornado in the back, RRs included those as well as a custom Toto in the Basket figurine. ECLEs also have a wood apron with a bunch of signatures on it and direct print cabinets.

#8612 56 days ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

I've just had the Throne room VUK opto's stopped working. Having switched connectors around on it's opto board I'm confident the opto's themselves are working and the fault is somehow on the board just involving the Throne room VUK connection at J7. Anyone seen this, solved this previously or have any idea how to fix it?

Make sure no other switches in the same row or column are non-functioning. I started chasing down a similar problem with a different opto and it turned out just to be a broken wire on one of the other switches in the same column.

#8613 56 days ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

I've just had the Throne room VUK opto's stopped working. Having switched connectors around on it's opto board I'm confident the opto's themselves are working and the fault is somehow on the board just involving the Throne room VUK connection at J7. Anyone seen this, solved this previously or have any idea how to fix it?

You can swap opto boards to check if it really is the board vs some other problem.

#8614 56 days ago
Quoted from Skipnatty:

One item of note is that you're also scoring some decent points in TNPLH so it's definitely worth your time, especially in later code revisions where your progress saves (or can be saved) between balls...I agree it's not easy, but I also agree that any chance to save a ball on this game is totally worth it as the outlanes are brutal lol

That I did not realize with the scoring. Funny, the other day I was thinking to myself.. "man, has anyone completed the 4 stages???"

#8615 56 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Make sure no other switches in the same row or column are non-functioning. I started chasing down a similar problem with a different opto and it turned out just to be a broken wire on one of the other switches in the same column.

Bingo. Skill Shot Switch wire on the same row had come off and was causing Throne room opto to malfunction. Thank you

#8616 56 days ago

Hey sorry to ask but the only issue I've ever had consistently with my WoZ, and it's been this way since day 1, is I can never get the shooter rod properly lined up to always have clean and predictable shots. The upside here is it makes the sill shots extremely easy to make as 9 out of 10 balls never make it much past the first flipper opening so nailing the witch on almost every ball is easy... However... I'd like to correct this for fairness reasons and I saw a post that someone pointed out to me regarding adding felt to the shooter lane so I bought the felt but now can't find the post...

Could someone help me find the felt post or provide any other recommendations on how I can get my WoZ to shoot properly all the time, every time?

Thanks,
Jeff

#8617 56 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

That I did not realize with the scoring. Funny, the other day I was thinking to myself.. "man, has anyone completed the 4 stages???"

As long as we are on this topic, is there a recommended setting for the Balloon Bumper to increase the chances of hitting all of the targets?

#8618 56 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

That I did not realize with the scoring. Funny, the other day I was thinking to myself.. "man, has anyone completed the 4 stages???"

I completed it 3 times in 1500 games, it’s also a good way to practice some important shots, I’m not too bad with the crystal ball shot but getting the throne room is still a challenge.

Speaking of shots I still don’t have a solid method to hit B-A from BALL, it happens randomly. Any tips ?

#8619 56 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

I completed it 3 times in 1500 games, it’s also a good way to practice some important shots, I’m not too bad with the crystal ball shot but getting the throne room is still a challenge.
Speaking of shots I still don’t have a solid method to hit B-A from BALL, it happens randomly. Any tips ?

haha, im random on that also. Im newer to the machine as you may know, so still experimenting. I also have a hard time getting that throne room. I tend to undershoot it... I do love that little mini game as a chance to save your ball. Great touch to the game..

#8620 56 days ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Hey sorry to ask but the only issue I've ever had consistently with my WoZ, and it's been this way since day 1, is I can never get the shooter rod properly lined up to always have clean and predictable shots. The upside here is it makes the sill shots extremely easy to make as 9 out of 10 balls never make it much past the first flipper opening so nailing the witch on almost every ball is easy... However... I'd like to correct this for fairness reasons and I saw a post that someone pointed out to me regarding adding felt to the shooter lane so I bought the felt but now can't find the post...
Could someone help me find the felt post or provide any other recommendations on how I can get my WoZ to shoot properly all the time, every time?
Thanks,
Jeff

I’m the one who posted the picture with where to place the felt. You can search under my name in this thread. If you can’t find it, let me know.

#8621 55 days ago

(Removed part sale post)

#8622 55 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I'd add that the standards did not have sculpted castle walls nor the Tornado in the back, RRs included those as well as a custom Toto in the Basket figurine. ECLEs also have a wood apron with a bunch of signatures on it and direct print cabinets.

Oh, right. I almost forgot that the castle walls didn't come with the ECLEs. That's a RR plus.

Toto in the basket is kind of junky, IMO. Looks like a modder bad idea.

#8623 55 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Oh, right. I almost forgot that the castle walls didn't come with the ECLEs. That's a RR plus.
Toto in the basket is kind of junky, IMO. Looks like a modder bad idea.

Toto would be great if he was more detailed but as is he tends to bother me.
The castle door on the other hand are really a must.

#8624 55 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I need to take a look at where my posts are in the outlanes, especially the left outlane. I checked my audits a few weeks ago and noticed how often TNPLH ball save is successful. I was stunned to see something like 3 successful saves out of maybe 200+ attempts. I have the settings on that ball save at easy, with a full minute to complete, with extra time awarded for shots made. I still drain 95% of the time before saving my ball. The only times I’ve saved it, it was by allowing progress to be saved and trying with a 2nd or 3rd ball. (I know, play better). I’m an ok player, especially on my own pins. Do others have this much trouble with the left ball save?

One of my favorite mini games, I still have not completed one. I have came very close and it’s very challenging, Toto I get almost every time. I might have to change the difficult to hard

#8625 55 days ago
Quoted from TonyScoots:

One of my favorite mini games, I still have not completed one. I have came very close and it’s very challenging, Toto I get almost every time. I might have to change the difficult to hard

The first Toto is easy...now the second one is a great challenge and feels good when I get it.

#8626 55 days ago

TNPLH feels like a mini wizard mode.

#8627 55 days ago
Quoted from mavantix:

I accidentally drunk ordered 2x of the Mezelmods State Fair LED's:
https://mezelmods.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/products/wizard-of-oz-pinball-state-fair
Anyone want my "extra" for $20 shipped in US? It's still NIB (New In Bag). I can't bear to face my mistake and return it, so my loss is your gain?! PM me! (I'll edit post if sold.)
PSA. Don't drunk mod shop kids.

PM sent...

#8628 55 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Oh, right. I almost forgot that the castle walls didn't come with the ECLEs. That's a RR plus.
Toto in the basket is kind of junky, IMO. Looks like a modder bad idea.

Anyone have a picture of the RR castle walls? Or know who was making them for JJP? Just curious to see what they look like compared to the ones sold by Modfather and Back Alley.

#8629 55 days ago

I believe the Back Alley ones are the official JJP ones.

#8630 55 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Toto in the basket is kind of junky, IMO. Looks like a modder bad idea.

pinballgoddess loves the little Toto figure. I wasn't going to put it on but, it makes her smile...

Art and beauty, always in the eye of the beholder.

#8631 55 days ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

The first Toto is easy...now the second one is a great challenge and feels good when I get it.

The second one, I feel but I might just suck at it, that some of them are impossible. I can do it when the 2 shots need to be done with the same flipper, but when there's a left and a right, I just don't see how you can shoot, then pass to the other flipper then shoot again all in time.

#8632 55 days ago

I have a earlier run WOZ standard with 5v buffered boards (first owner installed boards sent my JJP to replace original 5V boards.

I had an issue a few weeks back thought to be a bad led board under the castle playfield but I reconfigured the wires today and everything on the upper playfield now appears to be working fine.

What I am noticing, however, is that the last smaller lights on the "Follow The Yellow Brick Road" part in the middle of the playfield appear dimmer or dont match colors when it cycles through attract mode in different colors (green, dark blue, and red all match but pink, light blue, yellow, etc don't).

When starting gameplay, most of the ftybr lights appear dim while a few are brighter. (see pictures on test mode, etc for reference).

Gameplay seems otherwise normal but something with some of the led lights just seems off. Can't see any boards visibly out under the PF. Anyone experienced anything like this before or have ideas on what the issue may be?

20190821_122046 (resized).jpg20190821_123558 (resized).jpg
#8633 55 days ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I have a earlier run WOZ standard with 5v buffered boards (first owner installed boards sent my JJP to replace original 5V boards.
I had an issue a few weeks back thought to be a bad led board under the castle playfield but I reconfigured the wires today and everything on the upper playfield now appears to be working fine.
What I am noticing, however, is that the last smaller lights on the "Follow The Yellow Brick Road" part in the middle of the playfield appear dimmer or dont match colors when it cycles through attract mode in different colors (green, dark blue, and red all match but pink, light blue, yellow, etc don't).
When starting gameplay, most of the ftybr lights appear dim while a few are brighter. (see pictures on test mode, etc for reference).
Gameplay seems otherwise normal but something with some of the led lights just seems off. Can't see any boards visibly out under the PF. Anyone experienced anything like this before or have ideas on what the issue may be?[quoted image][quoted image]

Those inserts are yellow and not clear like the rest of them so they will appear dimmer and cannot match the color of the other inserts.

#8634 55 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Those inserts are yellow and not clear like the rest of them so they will appear dimmer and cannot match the color of the other inserts.

Thank you. So is this normal? It just looks off to me. If you look at the first picture, the pointed insert and 2 & 3 are brighter while the others get dimmer as they go up. It is more noticeable in person.

I just t dont understand why some would randomly be brighter then others.

#8635 55 days ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Thank you. So is this normal? It just looks off to me. If you look at the first picture, the pointed insert and 2 & 3 are brighter while the others get dimmer as they go up. It is more noticeable in person.
I just t dont understand why some would randomly be brighter then others.

I misunderstood your question and thought you were talking about the round yellow inserts that lead up to the "1" YBR arrow. Was this taken in attract, test, game or other mode? The first looks like it's in game, you have advanced to YBR level 3 (or 13, 23, 33, etc) and the ramp is lit to advance it to level 4. The second looks like attract and they all look the same to me.

#8636 55 days ago
Quoted from mavantix:

I believe the Back Alley ones are the official JJP ones.

That's correct, they also did the Toto in a basket which I think looks really nice.

#8637 55 days ago

I was initially talking about those colors being off and they are when it cycles through light blue, pink, white, etc.

Here a few other pictures at start of game play. FTYBR is mostly dim and lights are stagnant (it is not flashing up and through the 1 -9 like I have noticed others do when I watch videos on line).

Notice that the Scarecrow smaller lights are bright and cycling while TYBR is not. Inserts 1, 2, 3 of TYBR are all bright yellow while all others are dim. Wondering if a non-working led under the castle playfield could be causing this or something else?...
20190821_134231 (resized).jpg20190821_134234 (resized).jpg

#8638 55 days ago

Go into LED test and start with all of them on white. If everything isn't pretty close to the same intensity and white (except any non-clear inserts) then switch to individual LEDs and cycle through that way. Do you have any of the LED boards skipped via wiring and if so have you disabled that board in the game settings?

#8639 55 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Go into LED test and start with all of them on white. If everything isn't pretty close to the same intensity and white (except any non-clear inserts) then switch to individual LEDs and cycle through that way. Do you have any of the LED boards skipped via wiring and if so have you disabled that board in the game settings?

Thanks. A few weeks back when a problem arose, there was something clearly wrong with the PF lighting(different then right now). I spoke with JJP tech support about it and they helped me bypass the castle playfield wiring and then in settings turning off the castle RGB's. We figured it was likely a led under the castle playfield as the visible ones all seemed ok but I haven't had time to take on that project yet.

Today, I couldn't get ahold of JJP tech support so I decided to try to reconnect the playfield and other rerouted wires as 12 appeared out. After rerouting the wires back to what I think is normal, 12 is working and the castle playfield lights all appear normal (I then turned those back on in the settings menu as well).

The issue just appears to be what I've already posted with some of the lights around TYBR not cycling or some brighter then others.

Could it be that some of the wires arent connected correctly under the PF? The only coloring I noticed off at all in white light test mode is those 6 small lights at the end of TYBR. Could a led board like 30 or 31 out under the castle PF cause an issue like the one already discussed here with TYBR lighting?

#8640 55 days ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I have a earlier run WOZ standard with 5v buffered boards (first owner installed boards sent my JJP to replace original 5V boards.
I had an issue a few weeks back thought to be a bad led board under the castle playfield but I reconfigured the wires today and everything on the upper playfield now appears to be working fine.
What I am noticing, however, is that the last smaller lights on the "Follow The Yellow Brick Road" part in the middle of the playfield appear dimmer or dont match colors when it cycles through attract mode in different colors (green, dark blue, and red all match but pink, light blue, yellow, etc don't).
When starting gameplay, most of the ftybr lights appear dim while a few are brighter. (see pictures on test mode, etc for reference).
Gameplay seems otherwise normal but something with some of the led lights just seems off. Can't see any boards visibly out under the PF. Anyone experienced anything like this before or have ideas on what the issue may be?[quoted image][quoted image]

If you go into test mode and cycle through Red, Green, Blue, White do all the lights display the correct colors? If yes, you're fine. If no, you have one or more bad boards.

Also, if you re-connected the castle lights, did you re-activate the boards for the castle in the board settings system menu? That will cause weirdness, too if you forgot to tell the machine they were back in the chain.

#8641 55 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

If you go into test mode and cycle through Red, Green, Blue, White do all the lights display the correct colors? If yes, you're fine. If no, you have one or more bad boards.
Also, if you re-connected the castle lights, did you re-activate the boards for the castle in the board settings system menu? That will cause weirdness, too if you forgot to tell the machine they were back in the chain.

Thank you. Yes, I turned the deactivated boards back on in the system menu settings. My guess is one of the led boards under the castle playfield is still the problem. I guess I'm just baffled why it almost looks normal now whereas the lights weren't even close to working correctly previously before troubleshooting.

I will check board colors in test mode when I get back home in an hour or so.

#8642 55 days ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Thank you. Yes, I turned the deactivated boards back on in the system menu settings. My guess is one of the led boards under the castle playfield is still the problem. I guess I'm just baffled why it almost looks normal now whereas the lights weren't even close to working correctly previously before troubleshooting.
I will check board colors in test mode when I get back home in an hour or so.

It's a serial communications system so whichever board is causing the problem is likely intermittently varying degrees of bad and that affects the lights downstream from it by differing amounts. Until it dies completely and then they're always bad, and maybe it takes another board or boards with it. 1.0 lighting system BLOWS. Trust me. I had a perfect ECLE until it wasn't, then spent over a year with a cascading problem of light boards that eventually ended up being ALL the boards in the machine had been replaced and still problems were happening. Did the 2.0 (one of the first) install and it's been rock solid ever since. I can't recommend the upgrade highly enough.

#8643 55 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Did the 2.0 (one of the first) install and it's been rock solid ever since. I can't recommend the upgrade highly enough.

Just did one of these myself - it’s a lot of work, but the instructions are good (thanks to the contributions you made).

#8644 55 days ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Just did one of these myself - it’s a lot of work, but the instructions are good (thanks to the contributions you made).

It's not really hard at all, just time-consuming. And Butch did a great job taking the feedback from me and other early adopters to make the instructions now pretty rock-solid (as you saw).

#8645 54 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's not really hard at all, just time-consuming. And Butch did a great job taking the feedback from me and other early adopters to make the instructions now pretty rock-solid (as you saw).

Agreed!

Quoted from vireland:

It's a serial communications system so whichever board is causing the problem is likely intermittently varying degrees of bad and that affects the lights downstream from it by differing amounts. Until it dies completely and then they're always bad, and maybe it takes another board or boards with it. 1.0 lighting system BLOWS. Trust me. I had a perfect ECLE until it wasn't, then spent over a year with a cascading problem of light boards that eventually ended up being ALL the boards in the machine had been replaced and still problems were happening. Did the 2.0 (one of the first) install and it's been rock solid ever since. I can't recommend the upgrade highly enough.

Also agreed!

I've done the same (2.0) with my ECLE, haven't looked back.

I believe that the kit is still at the original price. Rumor was that they would increase it, at some point.

Those on the fence don't want to miss out on that, should it happen.

#8646 54 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's a serial communications system so whichever board is causing the problem is likely intermittently varying degrees of bad and that affects the lights downstream from it by differing amounts. Until it dies completely and then they're always bad, and maybe it takes another board or boards with it. 1.0 lighting system BLOWS. Trust me. I had a perfect ECLE until it wasn't, then spent over a year with a cascading problem of light boards that eventually ended up being ALL the boards in the machine had been replaced and still problems were happening. Did the 2.0 (one of the first) install and it's been rock solid ever since. I can't recommend the upgrade highly enough.

Going through the settings and testing each LED, I noticed the Munchkinland arrow light and Rainbow hurry up I serts didn't light up. Wondering if the led's that feed those inserts are the issue?...

#8647 54 days ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Going through the settings and testing each LED, I noticed the Munchkinland arrow light and Rainbow hurry up I serts didn't light up. Wondering if the led's that feed those inserts are the issue?...

Here's my most-referred to page from the manual when I had the 1.0 system. I still have most of it memorized from the year+ trauma.

When you say rainbow hurry up, do you mean the lit letters above the RAINBOW targets?

lightboard-diagram.jpg
#8648 54 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Here's my most-referred to page from the manual when I had the 1.0 system. I still have most of it memorized from the year+ trauma.
When you say rainbow hurry up, do you mean the lit letters above the RAINBOW targets?[quoted image]

No. I mean the Rainbow hurray up round insert on the left just above the pop bumper. You can test the lights on each insert on the off individually in the menu LED settings and that one and the Munchkinland arrow don’t light up.

#8649 54 days ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Those on the fence don't want to miss out on that, should it happen.

I bought my NIB WOZ in 2016, it was born in late 2015. It has the 1.1 boards, after they went from 5.0 to 7.5 volts I believe. But I don’t think mine are 2.0. They say 1.1 on them. I have about 700 plays on it, without any issues thus far. I am concerned that the 2.0 kit might become limited or difficult to get. It’s not cheap to buy the entire set of boards I imagine. I wish I had more clarity on how reliable the version 1.1, 7.5v boards are. I hear people have had issues, and others have had none. Difficult to gauge.

#8650 54 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I bought my NIB WOZ in 2016, it was born in late 2015. It has the 1.1 boards, after they went from 5.0 to 7.5 volts I believe. But I don’t think mine are 2.0. They say 1.1 on them. I have about 700 plays on it, without any issues thus far. I am concerned that the 2.0 kit might become limited or difficult to get. It’s not cheap to buy the entire set of boards I imagine. I wish I had more clarity on how reliable the version 1.1, 7.5v boards are. I hear people have had issues, and others have had none. Difficult to gauge.

They will fail. Regardless of voltage, buffer, etc, the 1.x lighting systems will ALL fail prematurely because the design is inherently flawed. It's not a question of IF, but WHEN.

Get the 2.0 kit while it's still pretty cheap and your working 1.0 boards still have value to resell and offset the upgrade cost.

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8,200
Machine - For Sale
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
10,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Cumming, GA
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