Quoted from Pinkitten:

I need to take a look at where my posts are in the outlanes, especially the left outlane. I checked my audits a few weeks ago and noticed how often TNPLH ball save is successful. I was stunned to see something like 3 successful saves out of maybe 200+ attempts. I have the settings on that ball save at easy, with a full minute to complete, with extra time awarded for shots made. I still drain 95% of the time before saving my ball. The only times I’ve saved it, it was by allowing progress to be saved and trying with a 2nd or 3rd ball. (I know, play better). I’m an ok player, especially on my own pins. Do others have this much trouble with the left ball save?

Quoted from Nokoro:

I’ve completed it only a handful of times, and I’m not sure I’ve ever done it on my first ball. TOTO is much easier. But since the ball is supposed to drain through an outlane, any chance to keep playing and save it, regardless of difficulty, is better than nothing. I just think of it as an extremely hard mini game that you get to play on the side.

Quoted from coz6:

Get rid of the loop wire see if the issues goes away. Then go with a different brand if you got your loop wires from JJ. I had nothing but problems on my WOZ when I had that brand in went with a different one and never a problem again.

Quoted from meSz:

Is there a matrix of sorts that shows the differences between Emerald, Ruby Red, 75th and YBR versions?

Quoted from PinMonk:

The important differences are:
Emerald - sparkly green color scheme, has flying monkey, LE has topper, all original castle doors, 1.0 (bad) lighting system
Ruby Red - sparkly red color scheme, has flying monkey, all original castle doors, different topper, EARLY ones have 1.0, most of them have superior 2.0 lighting system
YBR - sparkly yellow color scheme, different topper, no flying monkey, one less castle door, 2.0 lighting system, headphone jack moved to cab at your knees instead of on coin door.
I still think the ECLE with the 2.0 lighting system is the best version. Add the flying sculpted monkey and you have the best of all worlds.

Quoted from cscmtp:

well boys sold my WOZLE today. it was the pin I'd had the longest in my collection. she's going to a good home and I plan on getting a JP Premium to replace her. Hope I don't regret that move!

Quoted from PinMonk:

The important differences are:
Emerald - sparkly green color scheme, has flying monkey, LE has topper, all original castle doors, 1.0 (bad) lighting system
Ruby Red - sparkly red color scheme, has flying monkey, all original castle doors, different topper, EARLY ones have 1.0, most of them have superior 2.0 lighting system
YBR - sparkly yellow color scheme, different topper, no flying monkey, one less castle door, 2.0 lighting system, headphone jack moved to cab at your knees instead of on coin door.
I still think the ECLE with the 2.0 lighting system is the best version. Add the flying sculpted monkey and you have the best of all worlds.

Quoted from PinMonk:

The important differences are:
Emerald - sparkly green color scheme, has flying monkey, LE has topper, all original castle doors, 1.0 (bad) lighting system
Ruby Red - sparkly red color scheme, has flying monkey, all original castle doors, different topper, EARLY ones have 1.0, most of them have superior 2.0 lighting system
YBR - sparkly yellow color scheme, different topper, no flying monkey, one less castle door, 2.0 lighting system, headphone jack moved to cab at your knees instead of on coin door.
I still think the ECLE with the 2.0 lighting system is the best version. Add the flying sculpted monkey and you have the best of all worlds.

Quoted from DarthSinex:

I've just had the Throne room VUK opto's stopped working. Having switched connectors around on it's opto board I'm confident the opto's themselves are working and the fault is somehow on the board just involving the Throne room VUK connection at J7. Anyone seen this, solved this previously or have any idea how to fix it?

Quoted from DarthSinex:

I've just had the Throne room VUK opto's stopped working. Having switched connectors around on it's opto board I'm confident the opto's themselves are working and the fault is somehow on the board just involving the Throne room VUK connection at J7. Anyone seen this, solved this previously or have any idea how to fix it?

Quoted from Skipnatty:

One item of note is that you're also scoring some decent points in TNPLH so it's definitely worth your time, especially in later code revisions where your progress saves (or can be saved) between balls...I agree it's not easy, but I also agree that any chance to save a ball on this game is totally worth it as the outlanes are brutal lol

Quoted from bobukcat:

Make sure no other switches in the same row or column are non-functioning. I started chasing down a similar problem with a different opto and it turned out just to be a broken wire on one of the other switches in the same column.

Quoted from Rager170:

That I did not realize with the scoring. Funny, the other day I was thinking to myself.. "man, has anyone completed the 4 stages???"

Quoted from Rager170:

That I did not realize with the scoring. Funny, the other day I was thinking to myself.. "man, has anyone completed the 4 stages???"

Quoted from adol75:

I completed it 3 times in 1500 games, it’s also a good way to practice some important shots, I’m not too bad with the crystal ball shot but getting the throne room is still a challenge.
Speaking of shots I still don’t have a solid method to hit B-A from BALL, it happens randomly. Any tips ?

Quoted from jeffro01:

Hey sorry to ask but the only issue I've ever had consistently with my WoZ, and it's been this way since day 1, is I can never get the shooter rod properly lined up to always have clean and predictable shots. The upside here is it makes the sill shots extremely easy to make as 9 out of 10 balls never make it much past the first flipper opening so nailing the witch on almost every ball is easy... However... I'd like to correct this for fairness reasons and I saw a post that someone pointed out to me regarding adding felt to the shooter lane so I bought the felt but now can't find the post...
Could someone help me find the felt post or provide any other recommendations on how I can get my WoZ to shoot properly all the time, every time?
Thanks,
Jeff

Quoted from bobukcat:

I'd add that the standards did not have sculpted castle walls nor the Tornado in the back, RRs included those as well as a custom Toto in the Basket figurine. ECLEs also have a wood apron with a bunch of signatures on it and direct print cabinets.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Oh, right. I almost forgot that the castle walls didn't come with the ECLEs. That's a RR plus.
Toto in the basket is kind of junky, IMO. Looks like a modder bad idea.

Quoted from Pinkitten:

I need to take a look at where my posts are in the outlanes, especially the left outlane. I checked my audits a few weeks ago and noticed how often TNPLH ball save is successful. I was stunned to see something like 3 successful saves out of maybe 200+ attempts. I have the settings on that ball save at easy, with a full minute to complete, with extra time awarded for shots made. I still drain 95% of the time before saving my ball. The only times I’ve saved it, it was by allowing progress to be saved and trying with a 2nd or 3rd ball. (I know, play better). I’m an ok player, especially on my own pins. Do others have this much trouble with the left ball save?

Quoted from TonyScoots:

One of my favorite mini games, I still have not completed one. I have came very close and it’s very challenging, Toto I get almost every time. I might have to change the difficult to hard

Quoted from mavantix:

I accidentally drunk ordered 2x of the Mezelmods State Fair LED's:
https://mezelmods.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/products/wizard-of-oz-pinball-state-fair
Anyone want my "extra" for $20 shipped in US? It's still NIB (New In Bag). I can't bear to face my mistake and return it, so my loss is your gain?! PM me! (I'll edit post if sold.)
PSA. Don't drunk mod shop kids.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Oh, right. I almost forgot that the castle walls didn't come with the ECLEs. That's a RR plus.
Toto in the basket is kind of junky, IMO. Looks like a modder bad idea.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Toto in the basket is kind of junky, IMO. Looks like a modder bad idea.

Quoted from Wildbill327:

The first Toto is easy...now the second one is a great challenge and feels good when I get it.

Quoted from Utesichiban:

I have a earlier run WOZ standard with 5v buffered boards (first owner installed boards sent my JJP to replace original 5V boards.
I had an issue a few weeks back thought to be a bad led board under the castle playfield but I reconfigured the wires today and everything on the upper playfield now appears to be working fine.
What I am noticing, however, is that the last smaller lights on the "Follow The Yellow Brick Road" part in the middle of the playfield appear dimmer or dont match colors when it cycles through attract mode in different colors (green, dark blue, and red all match but pink, light blue, yellow, etc don't).
When starting gameplay, most of the ftybr lights appear dim while a few are brighter. (see pictures on test mode, etc for reference).
Gameplay seems otherwise normal but something with some of the led lights just seems off. Can't see any boards visibly out under the PF. Anyone experienced anything like this before or have ideas on what the issue may be?[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from bobukcat:

Those inserts are yellow and not clear like the rest of them so they will appear dimmer and cannot match the color of the other inserts.

Quoted from Utesichiban:

Thank you. So is this normal? It just looks off to me. If you look at the first picture, the pointed insert and 2 & 3 are brighter while the others get dimmer as they go up. It is more noticeable in person.
I just t dont understand why some would randomly be brighter then others.

Quoted from mavantix:

I believe the Back Alley ones are the official JJP ones.

Quoted from bobukcat:

Go into LED test and start with all of them on white. If everything isn't pretty close to the same intensity and white (except any non-clear inserts) then switch to individual LEDs and cycle through that way. Do you have any of the LED boards skipped via wiring and if so have you disabled that board in the game settings?

Quoted from Utesichiban:

I have a earlier run WOZ standard with 5v buffered boards (first owner installed boards sent my JJP to replace original 5V boards.
I had an issue a few weeks back thought to be a bad led board under the castle playfield but I reconfigured the wires today and everything on the upper playfield now appears to be working fine.
What I am noticing, however, is that the last smaller lights on the "Follow The Yellow Brick Road" part in the middle of the playfield appear dimmer or dont match colors when it cycles through attract mode in different colors (green, dark blue, and red all match but pink, light blue, yellow, etc don't).
When starting gameplay, most of the ftybr lights appear dim while a few are brighter. (see pictures on test mode, etc for reference).
Gameplay seems otherwise normal but something with some of the led lights just seems off. Can't see any boards visibly out under the PF. Anyone experienced anything like this before or have ideas on what the issue may be?[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from PinMonk:

If you go into test mode and cycle through Red, Green, Blue, White do all the lights display the correct colors? If yes, you're fine. If no, you have one or more bad boards.
Also, if you re-connected the castle lights, did you re-activate the boards for the castle in the board settings system menu? That will cause weirdness, too if you forgot to tell the machine they were back in the chain.

Quoted from Utesichiban:

Thank you. Yes, I turned the deactivated boards back on in the system menu settings. My guess is one of the led boards under the castle playfield is still the problem. I guess I'm just baffled why it almost looks normal now whereas the lights weren't even close to working correctly previously before troubleshooting.
I will check board colors in test mode when I get back home in an hour or so.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Did the 2.0 (one of the first) install and it's been rock solid ever since. I can't recommend the upgrade highly enough.

Quoted from zaphX:

Just did one of these myself - it’s a lot of work, but the instructions are good (thanks to the contributions you made).

Quoted from PinMonk:

It's not really hard at all, just time-consuming. And Butch did a great job taking the feedback from me and other early adopters to make the instructions now pretty rock-solid (as you saw).

Quoted from PinMonk:

It's a serial communications system so whichever board is causing the problem is likely intermittently varying degrees of bad and that affects the lights downstream from it by differing amounts. Until it dies completely and then they're always bad, and maybe it takes another board or boards with it. 1.0 lighting system BLOWS. Trust me. I had a perfect ECLE until it wasn't, then spent over a year with a cascading problem of light boards that eventually ended up being ALL the boards in the machine had been replaced and still problems were happening. Did the 2.0 (one of the first) install and it's been rock solid ever since. I can't recommend the upgrade highly enough.

Quoted from PinMonk:

It's a serial communications system so whichever board is causing the problem is likely intermittently varying degrees of bad and that affects the lights downstream from it by differing amounts. Until it dies completely and then they're always bad, and maybe it takes another board or boards with it. 1.0 lighting system BLOWS. Trust me. I had a perfect ECLE until it wasn't, then spent over a year with a cascading problem of light boards that eventually ended up being ALL the boards in the machine had been replaced and still problems were happening. Did the 2.0 (one of the first) install and it's been rock solid ever since. I can't recommend the upgrade highly enough.

Quoted from Utesichiban:

Going through the settings and testing each LED, I noticed the Munchkinland arrow light and Rainbow hurry up I serts didn't light up. Wondering if the led's that feed those inserts are the issue?...

Quoted from PinMonk:

Here's my most-referred to page from the manual when I had the 1.0 system. I still have most of it memorized from the year+ trauma.
When you say rainbow hurry up, do you mean the lit letters above the RAINBOW targets?[quoted image]

Quoted from dnaman:

Those on the fence don't want to miss out on that, should it happen.

Quoted from Pinkitten:

I bought my NIB WOZ in 2016, it was born in late 2015. It has the 1.1 boards, after they went from 5.0 to 7.5 volts I believe. But I don’t think mine are 2.0. They say 1.1 on them. I have about 700 plays on it, without any issues thus far. I am concerned that the 2.0 kit might become limited or difficult to get. It’s not cheap to buy the entire set of boards I imagine. I wish I had more clarity on how reliable the version 1.1, 7.5v boards are. I hear people have had issues, and others have had none. Difficult to gauge.