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After a disaster in our datacenter took down our server, we are now running Pinside on a brand new server. However, things may not work as expected as we are still polishing the playfield and adjusting some switches! We might be switching to maintenance mode a few times. Please see this forum topic for more info.

(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

7 years ago

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Topic Stats

  • 12,336 posts
  • 618 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by rrosenhouse
  • Topic is favorited by 283 Pinsiders

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There are 12336 posts in this topic. You are on page 168 of 247.
#8351 1 year ago

Pingraffix I believe has those art blades from the YBR WOZ

#8352 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

What kind of replacement? What is it you need? Once the monkey is dialed in he works pretty well overall. A noise filter is a ground loop isolator like they use in car stereos - cheap and widely available and knocks the surface noise/ static down. If you have an Automated GG (green game) your machine was probably built with one installed at the factory.
amazon.com link »

Oh thanks for the info. I could use this for my TWD machine as I do get a "buzz" noise. I assume that is what you are talking about.

Yes, Automated GG...

I dont need anything now but I have read a lot of issue with that thing. The one that I am getting a replacement for was making a grinding noise about halfway down sometimes when putting in test mode. I assume it needs some grease of sorts... And what is the best way to make the monkey travel further down if needed? I know the switch is screwed into the metal..

#8353 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I thought these were the "YBR" version..

I have the PinGraffix ones. The same ones PinGraffix supplies to JJP for the YBR game. I don't know anything about the modfather ones. Those look pretty dark to me.

#8354 1 year ago

Bend the microswitch actuator down ever so slightly while holding the arm down closed against the body. Never adjust any microswitch without holding it closed or you will break the arm off the switch. Bending the curved end down a touch will allow him to travel a thread or two farther down. Too far and he will plug on top of the ball so not too far / you want him to stop just left of the midway point of the playfield magnet core with the monkey plastic removed
Yes white lithium grease shoot it on a rag and work it into the threads don’t leave excess or it will splatter all over everything.

#8355 1 year ago
Quoted from avspin:

I have the PinGraffix ones. The same ones PinGraffix supplies to JJP for the YBR game. I don't know anything about the modfather ones. Those look pretty dark to me.

Agreed. I ordered from PinGraffix also.

#8356 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Bend the microswitch actuator down ever so slightly while holding the arm down closed against the body. Never adjust any microswitch without holding it closed or you will break the arm off the switch. Bending the curved end down a touch will allow him to travel a thread or two farther down. Too far and he will plug on top of the ball so not too far / you want him to stop just left of the midway point of the playfield magnet core with the monkey plastic removed
Yes white lithium grease shoot it on a rag and work it into the threads don’t leave excess or it will splatter all over everything.

Perfect, thanks!!

#8357 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Jjp yellow brick side blades on the ECLE....I really like them.
This game is just stunning. It does better than I was giving credit for too. I forgot a number of the shots it has. It's not just up the middle.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I need these now! Where can I get them?

#8358 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I need these now! Where can I get them?

PinGraffix.

#8359 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Awesome! Mine were ordered last week and stuck at USPS god knows where right now.. Im hoping they arrive by the weekend so I can put them on my new machine.
Did you take the playfield out to put them on? They can be tricky and for my GB machine, I took it out, but dont know if I want to do that with this one... The mirror blades on my TWD, I didnt take the playfield out and that was kind of a b*tch since those are thicker haha.

I put those in my RR, quick and easy, no removing the playfield.

#8360 1 year ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

I put those in my RR, quick and easy, no removing the playfield.

Great! excited! Now if USPS can stop losing my packages!

#8362 1 year ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

I put those in my RR, quick and easy, no removing the playfield.

I wouldn't say it was quick or easy for me. I did not remove the playfield and did it by myself. The decals would stick to the side while trying to squeeze them down the side of the playfield while raised. They are durable and I was able to get them off without deformation. But if I do it again I would remove the playfield with some help from a friend.

#8363 1 year ago
Quoted from avspin:

You can come over and take a look at mine if you like. I have the YBR version in my RR.

We will have to get together sometime!

#8364 1 year ago

It's about time for me to rebuild the flippers, what type of rebuild kit should I get? I am guessing the later Williams kits? Something like this: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WFLTRON-2L2R

I've done a couple small repairs over time to the flippers already like replace a broken bushing and retightening the link/pawl, but now the right flipper sometimes sticks up, and all the parts are pretty magnetized and loose, so It's probably a good time to just rebuild.

Audits say 19,066 games played, Left flipper 1,134,492 flips, Right flipper (the problematic one) 1,533,643 flips!

1437E152-DF66-4321-90BE-B3C60A5407D0 (resized).jpegB2160BB2-03AA-43F9-BBCD-29C2D64FD486 (resized).jpegE045A3E5-7724-4B3D-A9CE-6A6C01EB6BF0 (resized).jpeg
#8365 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarson:

It's about time for me to rebuild the flippers, what type of rebuild kit should I get? I am guessing the later Williams kits? Something like this: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WFLTRON-2L2R
I've done a couple small repairs over time to the flippers already like replace a broken bushing and retightening the link/pawl, but now the right flipper sometimes sticks up, and all the parts are pretty magnetized and loose, so It's probably a good time to just rebuild.
Audits say 19,066 games played, Left flipper 1,134,492 flips, Right flipper (the problematic one) 1,533,643 flips![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I would just replace the plunger, link and pawl.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15848-L

Put in a new coil sleeve and coil stop.

Do it all while the mech is still in the game.

Marco has all the parts.

Late William's parts are the ones you need.

It's about a 20 min job, maybe less.

Probably need to just file the plunger off smooth and put in a new stop and sleeve.

#8366 1 year ago

Yah, the coil stop has a loose and mushroomed stop. Would just like to get the full rebuild kit, is the one I listed what is needed?

#8367 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarson:

Yah, the coil stop has a loose and mushroomed stop. Would just like to get the full rebuild kit, is the one I listed what is needed?

http://www.pbresource.com/KT-WFLIP06.html

Save on shipping and just buy exactly what you need.

#8368 1 year ago

No, I prefer a kit, since I have to run the purchase through a purchase order at my company, and the kit is the easiest since it takes weeks to get approved and it’s not easy to order anything that was missed. Also, the kit listed has a lot of other things that I find need replacing, like stripped screws, etc., just want to make sure the kit I listed will work.

#8369 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarson:

No, I prefer a kit, since I have to run the purchase through a purchase order at my company, and the kit is the easiest since it takes weeks to get approved and it’s not easy to order anything that was missed. Also, the kit listed has a lot of other things that I find need replacing, like stripped screws, etc., just want to make sure the kit I listed will work.

The full kit is listed there too if that's how you prefer to order them, I've not used any of the kits from Marco just PBR and have never had a single issue with them.

#8370 1 year ago

Thanks, yah my company already is set up for ordering from Marco, so i have to order from them for parts. Anybody else know if this kit is what I need?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WFLTRON-2L2R

#8371 1 year ago

So today... I joined the club officially!

This pin is a blast when you see it in person

wIMG_8466 (resized).jpgwIMG_8485 (resized).jpg
#8372 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarson:

Anybody else know if this kit is what I need?

That will rebuild two of your flippers. Your game has more.

LTG : )

#8373 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarson:

Thanks, yah my company already is set up for ordering from Marco, so i have to order from them for parts. Anybody else know if this kit is what I need?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WFLTRON-2L2R

With all the games in your collection, you should be ordering in bulk.

Those kits are super expensive and you dont need most of the parts.

You would need 2 of them.
For the$130,

You are better off with Plunger assemblies, stops and sleeves.

I usually order 6 left, 6 right plungers, 10 coil stops and 10 coil sleeves.

You will need them later.

You dont even need springs, you just grab the next loop on them and re-attach.

EOS switches like coils, last for years, dont bother.

#8374 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

That will rebuild two of your flippers. Your game has more.
LTG : )

That kit is for 2 left and 2 right flippers.

#8375 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

With all the games in your collection, you should be ordering in bulk.
Those kits are super expensive and you dont need most of the parts.
You would need 2 of them.
For the$130,
You are better off with Plunger assemblies, stops and sleeves.
I usually order 6 left, 6 right plungers, 10 coil stops and 10 coil sleeves.
You will need them later.
You dont even need springs, you just grab the next loop on them and re-attach.
EOS switches like coils, last for years, dont bother.

WOZ is not my game, but the company I work for. My collection is at my house and I order from many suppliers, including PBResource, I have an extensive list of parts for doing my rebuilds at home. My company is set up to order from Marco, and the red tape involved means I want to just order a "Shotgun" approach and just replace everything that comes in the kit. I'm not trying to save a buck here, but in fact will be saving my company a $1000 service call to do the rebuild.

#8376 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarson:

WOZ is not my game, but the company I work for. My collection is at my house and I order from many suppliers, including PBResource, I have an extensive list of parts for doing my rebuilds at home. My company is set up to order from Marco, and the red tape involved means I want to just order a "Shotgun" approach and just replace everything that comes in the kit. I'm not trying to save a buck here, but in fact will be saving my company a $1000 service call to do the rebuild.

I see!

#8377 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarson:

That kit is for 2 left and 2 right flippers.

Your game has one more flipper.

LTG : )

#8378 1 year ago
Quoted from avspin:

I wouldn't say it was quick or easy for me. I did not remove the playfield and did it by myself. The decals would stick to the side while trying to squeeze them down the side of the playfield while raised. They are durable and I was able to get them off without deformation. But if I do it again I would remove the playfield with some help from a friend.

Wasn't quick or easy for me either. Wound up having to take the playfield out myself to get them on properly. Have an earlier Pingraffix design, looks great also!

#8379 1 year ago

So I finally received my pinblades and I am a bit surprised to find that they are not "blades" but simply a decal. When I got pinblades for my GB machines, they were a much thicker material of plastic.

These ones for WOZ are going to be a b*tch to install. I dont see how it would be possible to do it without taking the playfield out.

#8380 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

So I finally received my pinblades and I am a bit surprised to find that they are not "blades" but simply a decal. When I got pinblades for my GB machines, they were a much thicker material of plastic.
These ones for WOZ are going to be a b*tch to install. I dont see how it would be possible to do it without taking the playfield out.

Thanks for posting this. I was about to order these but I want blades not a decal.

#8381 1 year ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Thanks for posting this. I was about to order these but I want blades not a decal.

They are a bit thicker than just a sticker but I wouldnt call them "blades". I feel the description is misleading calling them a thick vinyl.. That they are not..

I was suspicious when i saw them completely rolled up in the box..

#8382 1 year ago

I could be wrong but I believe the reason for this is due to the limited space between the playfield and cabinet. Is there anyone that actually has mirrors or blades on theirs that can speak to clearance? I put these vinyl blades on my WOZ over 2 years ago (without taking PF out) and they have been fine. I have heard that thicker blades have had issues with scraping and wear.

#8383 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

They are a bit thicker than just a sticker but I wouldnt call them "blades". I feel the description is misleading calling them a thick vinyl.. That they are not..
I was suspicious when i saw them completely rolled up in the box..

Same thoughtsand concerns here. Just got mine and was surprised how thin they are compared to the Aerosmith ones I installed on my cousin's pin. Those were thick material coated with what looked to be polycarbonate similar to arcade control panel overlays. I just hope these WOZ blade decals last when lifting up the playfield.

#8384 1 year ago
Quoted from bigbadmiker:

Same thoughtsand concerns here. Just got mine and was surprised how thin they are compared to the Aerosmith ones I installed on my cousin's pin. Those were thick material coated with what looked to be polycarbonate similar to arcade control panel overlays. I just hope these WOZ blade decals last when lifting up the playfield.

Thats exactly what my thoughts are too and also how my GB blades were. I got these in the mail today as im tired of worrying about the sides and wooden edges when lifting the field.. https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

Another question, mine seem a bit on the darker side. Are your guys like this too? I know.. I sound like a real picky dude but it is what it is..

#8385 1 year ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

I could be wrong but I believe the reason for this is due to the limited space between the playfield and cabinet. Is there anyone that actually has mirrors or blades on theirs that can speak to clearance? I put these vinyl blades on my WOZ over 2 years ago (without taking PF out) and they have been fine. I have heard that thicker blades have had issues with scraping and wear.

I have an ecle with mirror blades and the clearance is fine.

#8386 1 year ago

I have a RR with no blades, and I have no clearance.

#8387 1 year ago

I have an ECLE and mirror blades in the box because there is no way in heck they will clear. I don’t think I could even fit one in.

#8388 1 year ago

wet method worked fine for the install of my blades (from pingraffix - the JJP official ones I posted earlier).

#8389 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

wet method worked fine for the install of my blades (from pingraffix - the JJP official ones I posted earlier).

Im going to have to give this method a try. I watched a video of it and it seems by doing it with soap/water mixture, makes it to be far less stuck if needing to wiggle it around a bit.

#8390 1 year ago

Joined with 1.1 7.5v light boards, fingers crossed

#8391 1 year ago
Quoted from Walleyefisher:

Joined with 1.1 7.5v light boards, fingers crossed

I have had zero problems with 7.5v boards in 5 years of continuous operation.

#8392 1 year ago

Side thread note.. if you are wanting to replace your Crystal Ball screen without ordering it from JJP, you can't.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-75-buffer-boards/page/2#post-5117891

Also, listed our Flickering Flame Ultra Kit for the State Fair Balloon on our site:
https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/wizard-of-oz-flickering-flame-hot-air-balloon-jersey-jack-pinball

Added 15 months ago:

Side thread note.. if you are wanting to replace your Crystal Ball screen without ordering it from JJP, you can't.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-75-buffer-boards/page/2#post-5117891

Also, listed our Flickering Flame Ultra Kit for the State Fair Balloon on our site:
https://pinballmods.co/WOZ-flickering-flame-balloon-JJP

#8393 1 year ago

so could be a silly question but does continously turning on and off the machine put more "stress" on the light boards or is it better to just turn it on once and let it play throughout the day even if you're not using it a ton?

#8394 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

so could be a silly question but does continously turning on and off the machine put more "stress" on the light boards or is it better to just turn it on once and let it play throughout the day even if you're not using it a ton?

Everything I keep hearing is that you treat it like any computer. Going to play it, leave in on during repeated uses. For long periods of non use turn it off. Avoid interrupting the boot sequence, don't power down until the game fully boots. Leave some time between shutting down and powering back up. 5 secs at least. Stress for most electrical components is about heat cycles. The more they are in one constant state the better. Having led lights running on 2.0 boards sounds fine but do we have long term data? I'd suspect either way better to have the game off for most delays between games. No need to push the led driver boards than they have to. We try and leave games on for use in 4 or 8 blocks of time depending on day, week, who's at home, etc. We ask each other if they are planning on playing. If I'm going to or she will then it can stay on. They stay on all day sometimes. My biggest worry is the light boards getting worn, like WoZ. I know this is different but not all LEDs are made with quality. I wish there was a sleep mode.

#8395 1 year ago

Once again a lot of worthwhile threads on the earlier boards. I have the first post production game (early May 2013). Initially I had a few small boards go wonky as well as the fish board. Since mid to late 2013 I have not had any lighting issues. I realize that saying this is probably bad karma. I do hate thinking when playing if a board is going to go bad. But than again, anytime you turn on a machine a problem could arise. So my thought is that I’m going to try and coax one of jjp’s excellent techs to my house to fix a minor issue. Than I’m going to kidnap them, make my home into a bed and breakfast so they feel comfortable WHILE they install 2.0.

#8396 1 year ago

I have the early boards also - no problem with the boards but the connectors to and from seem to need reseating or a pull tie to reroute a bit away from high voltage. If you're getting the boards to light but maybe the wrong color, like white instead of green especially on cue with flipper activation, this is probably your problem also.

#8397 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have had zero problems with 7.5v boards in 5 years of continuous operation.

Agreed...2nd gen 7.5v boards ( that dealt w static and inrush issues) are quite solid. Mine have been very stable, even after a moment of temporary insanity, attempting to add aftermarket led " amazastrips".. ..Boards took the hit and rebounded nicely.

Eric's brilliance truly shined on this effort, saving the game, imho...Very greatful.

#8398 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

so could be a silly question but does continously turning on and off the machine put more "stress" on the light boards or is it better to just turn it on once and let it play throughout the day even if you're not using it a ton?

CPU still going to go through boot process, and can't imagine it causing any additional stress on the boards.

I'm always concerned w heat causing component failure, so my vote would be like all my devices...On when I want to use them, off when not. Trying to keep "operational hours" as low as possible.

#8399 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

CPU still going to go through boot process, and can't imagine it causing any additional stress on the boards.
I'm always concerned w heat causing component failure, so my vote would be like all my devices...On when I want use them, off when not. Trying to keep "operational hours" as low as possible.

Thanks guys

#8400 1 year ago

Looking for touch up paint to fix a tiny scratch on a rail on my ecle. Has anyone had to do this? If so, what paint did you use?

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