I now know what those things were that I removed when I did the 2.0 conversion. What's their purpose again?

Wire nuts instead of molex connectors.

Very fast assembly, inexpensive, low reliability on stranded wire.

kinda like IDC connectors, just jam the wire in and your connected, for awhile...

In two different WOZ I have seen nothing like you describe. In fact, I just ran a bunch of custom lighting wires all around my playfield, cabinet, wiring harness, etc and I see no sort of "quick" connection nuts anywhere.

Got it. Thanks.

Mine were at the ends of the power harness connecting the purple and black wires on the old lighting system. The 2.0 system doesn’t have them.

I have both systems in my house right now, I'll go confirm. Ironically both playfields are up.

Hoping someone here has some experience with WOZ Switch matrix issues.

My biggest problem seems to be with a number of switches in column 12 (Gray-Orange) and affects everything from switch 90 to 96 (mostly the rainbow targets + the scarecrow rollover)

In Switch test menu, hitting most of the targets on column 12 also will trigger targets on the corresponding row

For example:

Switch 89 (R) seems to be totally fine! - ROW 1
Switch 90 (A) Triggers itself OK plus triggers switch 74 (Glinda Target) - ROW 2
Switch 91 (I) Triggers itself OK plus triggers switch 75 (Emerald City Ramp Enter) - ROW 3
Switch 92 (N) triggers itself OK plus triggers switch 76 (Emerald City Ramp Made) - ROW 4
Switch 93 (B) triggers itself OK plus triggers a change on Switch 13 (Spinning House Notch) - ROW 5
Switch 94 (O) triggers itself OK plus triggers switch 14 (which says its not used) - ROW 6
Switch 95 (W) is totally dead - ROW 7
Switch 96 (Scarecrow) triggers itself OK plus triggers switch 80. - ROW 8

No other switches on the game appear to be triggering anything else erroneously. The additional switches that are also triggered by switches in column 12 are OK on their own switch tests (Glinda, Ramp Enter, Ramp Made, etc)

I haven't had time to get under the playfield quite yet to take a closer look since ive been busy with work this week, but want to make my battle plan for the weekend.

I am guessing at least a few diodes in column 12 of switches have crapped the bed? Is it possible they are all bad, or more likely one in the chain is causing all of the problems? Anything else I should rule out before I start testing diodes?

Sigh... I'll post here because it's cool. So, my crystal ball display is having issues. That lead me to 4D systems, the company that makes the display. I found a product of theirs called uTOLED-20-G2 (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/4D-Systems/uTOLED-20-G2/?qs=wBxGIkmvhAol5Vn9YpLg%3D%3D&gclid=CNvfr92vs7wCFYNi7Aodr04A7g) which is almost exactly the same kind of display but it's transparent. So you can just pop in an SD card and it will display the video, no other parts needed.

Someone was actually making a real TOLED display! I had no idea. Well, apparently they no longer make it and I can't find anyone else who is. I can't believe this isn't used in more places or available from other manufacturers. I asked 4D, they have no plans to make any more. I searched far and wide for other options. I've found a few that are either much smaller, dumb displays or single color.

Well, I thought it would be HELLA cool to replace the OZ head with this display and use some video clips (like the CB) to hide and show the the head animation. It would have been a huge upgrade to that ugly piece of etched plastic and look pretty magical. Sadly, there doesn't seem to be any other real options on the market and no easy way to make one.

I was looking into a pepper's ghost effect but I don't think there is enough space or good of enough viewing angle to do it. I looked in to pico projectors, but again I don't think there is enough room or angle.

Oh well, would have be awesome.

Check if you have a wire fallen off.

Check for wire shorts.

Maybe a wire is loose or plugged in wrong, or the wrong location.

After that maybe a broken diode.

Diode leg on the Rainbow targets themselves is folded over touching the metal and thus ghosting the other side - look carefully at each rainbow target underneath and you will find it.

Just in case anybody else needs some help with pinball matrix debugging, I found this video very useful in understanding the basic concept of how the matrix works. I always had sort of an idea how it worked on a perfect system, but was not familiar with how stuff can go whacky if a diode goes out.

Yeah, Terry's video is awesome.

I had a moment to lift the hood and take a peek at the rainbow targets tonight, and the first thing I looked at was Switch 95 since it was reporting stuck closed. Took a closer look at the switch and the contacts behind the target were not stuck together, so I looked at the bottom of the switch, and lo and behold there shined a tiny, barely visible splotch of solder bridging the blades on the switch...must have splashed down from when the previous owners were doing maintenance on it. Scraped it off and we are back in business! No more switches getting erroneously triggered. Amazing how a tiny little bridge like that can cause a chain of issues!

Just glad I didn't have to go as far as replacing diodes. Easy peasy!

Nice find! Sometimes it’s like looking for a needle in a haystack. Glad you solved it.

One more observation I have made.. I seem to recall that the flippers on the upper playfields would not flip unless the ball was detected as being up there. on my game they always flip when the ball is on the main playfield. I took to youtube to see different videos of the game in action and have seen variations of this. In an IE Pinball video on version 5.05 of the game from a few years back, the upper playfield flippers only seem to activate when the twister mode or castle rescue modes are active. In a newer video from the last few months where some guys are playing a freshly unboxed Yellow Brick Road edition of the game, the upper playfield flippers are always active.

Is this a setting somewhere, or did they change something in the software that keeps them flipping all the time?

Edit: After a little more digging for video, it seems it only disabled them during TOTO and Theres no place Like Home. Really weird, I could have sworn they were disabled until you got the ball up there.

I've played on a wide variety of code base eras and all versions of the game (well, except the "automated" emerald green) and I don't ever recall the flippers not flipping (except TOTO and TNPLH, if you say that is the case... I didn't even think about that).

Ya, that is correct. Even the pops are dead during Toto and No place like home.
Pouring thru manual yesterday I did not know you can change the mini flippers on mini playfields to opposite flipper. Ie left flipper for castle flipper, and right for munchkin. Might change this on next party/tourny to mess with everyone. In my mind after all these years it would mess with me.

Does anyone have experience with their Woz auto-launching the first ball? Every now and then, I hit the start button and the first ball is served up then auto launched without any further input.

Any ideas?

I'd look at Tests - Switches - Matrixed - anything stuck closed that should be open ?

LTG : )

I bought my WOZ new in 2016, it was manufactured in 2015 and has version 1.1 light boards, which are the 7.5v. I still own it, and have put about 700 plays on it without incident. I have been fortunate, as I know this is a common problem. I’m just wondering how common. Does anyone know, perhaps from JJP discussions? Is it a 50/50 proposition? Or is it happening to most owners of pre-2.0 boards? I know the upgrade isn’t cheap. I assume it’s not free either from JJP, even though they replaced the 1.0 and 1.1 boards in manufacture?

I’m just grateful my game has worked perfectly so far, but I’m concerned that it could fail. I hope the 2.0 boards are avail for many years!

It's $800 and an inevitability

This describes my situation as well.

They work great without issue. Until they don’t. :p

I do have a switch problem. Thanks for pointing that out. I didn’t realize it would cause the auto launch.

How difficult is switching out the light boards or upgrading to the 2.0 ones? Is it $800 and 40 hours of work or switching things out easy ?

I have a similar game.
Over 10000 plays on it.
No issues.
Light boards have been solid as a rock.

That being said, all things wear out in time.

When the need comes to restore my game, I will intall the 2.0 system for compatibility and servicability.

I might do it on the next complete teardown.

It's time to look at coil sleeves throughout and do a complete cleaning and rubber replacement.

Most people report a weekend of work. I've done a pretty fair amount of work on WOZ and read the install guide and I'd say if you are handy it looks like it isn't that big of a deal. I mean, it is literally removing the old boards and installing the new ones (and running wires). It's all pretty plug and play. If you take your time, run the wires cleanly and zip tie stuff then probably a weekend is a good, relaxed timeline. I was estimating I could get it done in a day if I wanted.

More like 12-14 hours of work. You can break it up as much as you want. The instructions are good and straightforward, and you can take it step by step. I did it a few hours a day over the course of 3 weekends, only because I like taking breaks. I would not recommend doing it all in one day. You will tire yourself out and are more prone to make mistakes.

My next week end of work is to install silent fans, to me it’s a much bigger issue than led failing that actually don’t fail much.

But the noise, urgh I cant take it anymore !

I did just the CPU case fan and it was amazing. Btw, if you order any standard fan forget about splicing it in to the wiring. The mobo has headers for fans built in. My fan came with an extension that let it reach the mobo no problem.

Edit - here is the fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMG62M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Just remove the old one and force the plug from the new fan through the rubber grommet on the PC case. I lubed it up a bit with some water because it was tight. Then use the extension to make it to the motherboard.

I like amazing - ordering one for WOZ and Hobbit.

Awesome ! I was just about to ask you for a link. I ordered one, looking forward to resting my ears

Just arrived on my front porch. My machine will live on forever!!

I am guessing these have cured long enough I am going to spray on some Spray Max 2X gloss and buff the crap out of them and store them away, lol. Some day I'll do the swap. Can't wait to have shiny, buttery smooth playfields. My main playfield is dull and I know the only way I'm getting it back is to machine polish it, so might as well just do the swap. My munchkin playfield got hit with too many airballs so it's beat up, has cliffy on it now. One day my game will be pristine!

0701191643 (resized).jpg

Where did you get these Harry? Been thinking about getting a spare Munchkinland playfield for my game.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/80795

I bought ones that weren't cleared again but for $800 you can't go wrong. There have been a few on ebay but only the main playfield and castle, never have seen the munchkin for sale.

What are the "must-have" mods for WOZ?
I have a WOZ ecLE with the emerald city mod, witch smoke mod, back alley walls mod, decals, ramp mod, cliffys, leg protectors, and the lighted drop target mod. I definitely want to get the flying monkey too...but what else?

Lighted tree eyes?
WOZ figures?
Any great apron cards?
??

Ramp mod?

Brightbuttons are cool, but the diy is pretty easy also, lighted balloon, and check out the Winkie mod-mod video

1158B72D-244B-415D-97FD-F78FBE963132 (resized).jpeg

I forgot to mention, but i also already have the winkie mod, but i havent installed it yet. I keep hearing they break easily. Do you know if that is true...or is it just a certain "run" of them?

Red Smoke Witch Mod
Winged Monkey mod
Pinstadiums
Cliffys for the Munchkinland playfield

The early ones from Modfather or whoever first made them (I can't remember) were notorious for breaking quickly, mine did. The ones that Indy is selling have held up very well, over two years in mine so far.

Im not familiar with indy. Where could i find the Indy one?

Vid did a write-up on these that was super positive - I’ve had it for months and it’s been rock solid, and the price is excellent.
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-drop-target-williams-p-47.html

My original translucent winky target hasn't broken.

https://mezelmods.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/products/wizard-of-oz-illuminated-winkie-target-replacement

The target is made by pinballmods.com I believe.

Indypinhead from this site... send him a PM

Use Indy. I've broken 2 of the others

Do you have any pics of them?

I only ask because i have one that came with the pin deal, but i dobt know if it is one of the easily breakable ones or not.

Here is a link to Indy's old add. He still makes them, all you need to do is PM him. But scroll down and you can see pics of what his look like...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-lit-drop-target-for-woz

I'd just use what you have until it breaks. The early Mezel's seemed to be 3d printed and you can see and feel fine lines on the part that sticks under the playfield. I think Mezel fixed this but not sure. The Indy's seem to be molded or cut from a polycarbonate and have no horizontal flat lines anywhere.

Mezel uses the pinballmods.com one now. Injection, I believe. Mine is definitely not 3d.

This is the best one. Solid as heck and will never break. Had it on mine and loved it.