What's the difficulty rating on doing the 2.0 install? Is it pretty straight forward, just time consuming?

Does the JJP instructions cover everything? And drilling into the pf required?

Thanks

I’m not terribly mechanically inclined, and I was terrified of it, but it is not that bad. You do have to drill new pilot holes on the underside of the playfield, which is just a scary concept, but again not that bad. The JJP instructions are excellent and take you through it step by step. The early instructions had some places that needed clarity. My understanding is that they’ve revised them, but I’m not sure which set of instructions you have. Regardless, there is an excellent thread that gives tips and clarifies the instructions, and you can pose questions there. It is:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/has-anyone-installed-woz-20-yet-im-about-too-

There are a bunch of us who have done it and are happy to help.

Well guys I was playing my WOZ today and a board definitely went out. I can't remember the process of skipping /bridging a light board to find which one is the culprit. I would LOVE any guidance. thank you!

See below I have highlighted the only working lights.

boards (resized).jpg

lights (resized).jpg

This should help you :

Please check out page C-54 in the manual ( you can download it at jerseyjackpinball.com ) that page shows the data harness path. From W6 to #29, to #1, to #2, to #3, etc. etc.

Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs, this turns any working all white. Lift playfield and lean on backbox. You can see the working ones kind of glow.

They are wired in series, a straight line. Find the last working one, the one after it that is out is the bad one. With the power on, you can by pass the data harnesses on the LED boards, bypass the bad one, and turn off in settings. ( be sure and turn it back on when you replace it ) this will help you identify a bad one.

As an example, say #15 was out. You can run the data harness from red on W2, to green on #16 instead of #15. If the rest light up, you know #15 is the bad one.

With the power on you can move data harnesses. They go red to green from board to board. Don't mess with the power connectors with the power on.

LTG : )

Move the data harness between 4 and 5 to 4 and 6, I think 5 is your dead one.

W6 is on, and maybe #29. So #1 is probably bad.

LTG : )

Darn it, I was trying to show how Obi-Wan has taught me well, but I’ve failed !

You did good. You got him in the right neighborhood.

LTG : )

Thank you so much folks I will try this shortly

Ok so the last light lit in the chain appears to be 3. SO, I bypassed 4 directly to 5? now how do I disable it... as nothing has yet happened? Cheers

In Game Settings - don't do it yet if nothing improved. Disable after you know the number on the bad board(s) you bypassed.

Then to #6, then to #7, then to #8 - etc. etc. You may have more than one bad board.

Grab the long harness from W1 yellow brick road board to TOTO lights, to help you sort this out if data harnesses won't reach.

LTG : )

ok i think i follow so if 3 is the last good one just keep branching off that to others in the series, i tried to 6 nothing so ill keep going

Its not possible this could be a fuse issue right?

Ok i tried 5, 6,7,8... when I connected to 5 got a quick little blink and out... the rest nothing... then I noticed this... crazy frayed ends on the W2 Connector, this can not be good ... I mean all the leads are touching, but it actually looks like a few of the longer connectors are just like this one? LTG
wire1 (resized).pngwire2 (resized).png

Ok I tried going from 2 to 5 and skipping 4, which actually was a working light, and we got more lights on... but still tons out in the lower playfield area

Best, easiest way to replace winky target?
Just unscrew the whole popper from playfield.
Winky broken....

You might have more than a few boards out. Check them one at a time.

LTG : )

ok think i found them ... 3,4 and 12 appear to all be bad so going to order replacements, where do I order them? thank you so much for the help LTG
and im having a hard time finding the part number? Is it 15-0008-03, 15-0008-04, 15-0008-12....?

http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/

LTG : )

Thank you ordered 4 got a spare it seems the little GI ones are the most common to go out?

Joined the club today! Picked up a 75th Anniversary Ruby Red WOZ. This one was on location and had a LOT of plays, but overall works very well... needs a good deep cleaning tho! Looking forward to giving it a polish and rebuilding a few of the flippers and mechs.

72DA3F4F-004F-47EA-AD9B-CCB963C5BB1E (resized).jpeg

Yup

Yes, disconnect one of the wires to get access

4 screws, one of them you need a magnetized screwdriver. A nut driver wont fit.

Just out of interest, since i don't own the game (yet).
Seems to be four wires?
Is it so that same clusters can do different colored Light, but all do the same color in that cluster?
Are Theese boards only routing Light-wires?
12 or 5 volts?

The pre 2.0 light systems (doesn't matter which one) are all serial communications which means the data flows from one board to the next to the next and so on. There are no "clustering" of light colors, each board is full RGB and completely independent of the other boards as far as what color is being produced but the serial nature is what causes the bigger problems. One board can cause a whole bunch of others to do bad things like be completely dark or flicker rapidly. The very first ones were 5V and were pretty quickly switched over to 7.5V boards until the 2.0 light system was released, I'm not sure what the voltage is on those.

Thank you. Been looking around. Need to order another lit winky. Anyone know a good place to get the lite clear winky?

Indipinhead makes the best one.

I'm thinking of buying an ECLE version of WOZ pinball, but the seller told me that the machine is running the 7,5V light boards. The seller said that he didn't had any issue with the lighting.

Should I be worried if I finally get it?

Thanks for the reply. Much appriciated.
So are all the lights on the same board, presenting the same color all the time?
(i realize they can change color, but can they change color induvidually, or only within the same group?)

My ECLE has the 7.5 volt boards and I’ve never had a problem either. In the unlikely event that a problem did arise, I can just order the 2.0 version.

Pm sent to indy!

I have the 7.5 buffered boards. Game works great no issues with lighting.

I wouldn't, have the same boards and except for a questionable GI board I've been good. Buy it and you'll love it!

No, every single LED is fully RGB addressable, even on boards with multiple LEDs and the resulting light show is pretty fricking awesome!

I bought a used ECLE thinking I would be ok. I was wrong. I ended up buying the 2.0 board set.

Some of the problems with the old boards have to do with interference from nearby EMI sources that cross onto the communication wires between the boards and aren't failures of the boards themselves. Moving the wires around can actually resolve lighting issues in these cases. One way to tell if interference may be your issue and not a bad board/wire is if power cycling the game restores full lighting functionality until you play it and flip some, and then after some gameplay half your lighting dies out, and may or may not come back by itself...until you power cycle again.

Source: Resolving my ECLE issues with some help from folks around here when JJP support stopped replying to me.

A lot of the moving wires around to fix lighting issues has been from loose wires in the wall nuts.

Wall nuts were never recommended for stranded wire.

It compresses and loses contact.

Wall nuts are typically used for solid core wire.

Umm, there are no wall nuts on the inter-board communication wires I'm talking about moving away from EMI sources.

Right, but when the wall nut connections go bad the slightest movement can have an effect. I experienced this myself, jiggling various wires under the playfield (not the main harness branches). Give each wire on the wall nuts a solid tug just to be sure. I ended up having so many wires pull out that I replaced most of the wall nuts with old fashioned twist nuts.

Yes. But just raising the playfield can fix lighting issues or cause them, if you have loose wall nuts.

My game has done this from the beginning.

Its fairly stable if you dont mess with it too much.

My family hosted a gathering at our house while I was away last weekend. Went out to the game room and discovered that WOZ no longer boots. I started a separate thread here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-won-t-boot-1#post-5062240

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Greetings! Recent new(and happy) owner here! Can anyone tell me where I get get mirror blades? Best, Charlie

Please elaborate on wall nuts fixing some light board issues that manifest inconsistently after some gameplay but then resolve after cycling the power.

I had to search on "wall nut". I learned something today. Hadn't heard that term.

Which/where wall nuts are possible culprits?
And which wires are recommended to fuss with?

Thank you,
-Jason

Regular, black and gold
https://www.pinballdecals.com/MirrorBladesPage.html

^ Thanks bro!

The issue and workaround I described has nothing to do with wall nuts and everything to do with EMI in a pinball and it’s negative effects on serial lines controlling the addressable LEDs. EMI (say from a coil firing) causes communication to be disrupted (noise on the line) and the software/boards don’t recover gracefully. That’s why power cycling the game temporarily resolves it. If it doesn’t, it’s not the same issue. Interestingly in my case, early versions of code (1.x) presented the issue as a white flash across all the LEDs, but later versions (6.x/7.x) exhibits total temporary failure in effected lighting and downstream lights, and only recovered with a few scenarios, power cycle being 100% reliable. I suspect they changed some of the USB interface code between those versions causing the difference in visible behavior.

I assume JJP attempted to fix this EMI issue with “buffered” boards, but that just treated the symptoms and not the cause, so they abandoned the old hardware design for a new one using Ethernet cabling which is twisted to specifically avoid EMI/cross talk.

Would be ecstatic to be enlightened otherwise with details on what I got wrong, but it seems JJP is mum on this issue. Perhaps because an argument could be made that it’s a design flaw and not a component failure.

Follow the wiring harness for the lights to the back of the playfield. You will find that the wires all come together in a group of wall nuts. One color is positive, the other is ground. Tug each wire in each wall nut. If a wire comes out of a nut or wiggles excessively, replace the wall nut with a twist connector or other suitable, strong connection. Make sure the wires are well connected and secured together as a group. Don't use another wall nut. They're not good with stranded wire.

Hi guys, still thinking in joining the club buying an ECLE version. All I know it has 7,5 boards (don't know if buffered or unbuffered).

It's a 2/2014 build, any known issues on machines born this date?

Anything not 2.0 is likely to have issues sometime. Those sound fairly stable for all the v1 options. As long as you are ok with doing the 2.0 update at some point.

Did they change that at some point because I don't remember encountering any wall nuts (which I fricking hate!) when I pulled the old wiring harness out while doing the 2.0 upgrade?

Walnuts? In a salad yes those are tasty, I’m totally lost on this wal nuts talk

Mine has a huge bundle of them hanging down from the bottom of the playfield.

Once in awhile after doing maintenance I have to pull on them or wiggle them to get the lighting back up.

It's not frequent, maybe 5 times in 5 years lol.