(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,244 posts
  • 487 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Daditude
  • Topic is favorited by 224 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,115 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

4741F63D-F135-42C9-B0BB-888567F1B131 (resized).jpeg
20190712_000302 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
347B3C48-42E8-4EEE-822E-630BF0BD5DAF (resized).jpeg
6A2218E4-EF02-4727-8153-039F8E88A7C1 (resized).jpeg
3FDAFEE2-D8F7-4214-A954-7CD86721FDEE (resized).jpeg
9A4D5398-EFC8-4210-B959-A803E9602B79 (resized).jpeg
2E4F4B08-F33B-43BD-A070-D75238B293B9 (resized).jpeg
20190710_004635 (resized).jpg
20190708_180633 (resized).jpg
799603ED-3905-4458-B545-286D3550CC78 (resized).jpeg
6F62118B-EB94-42D9-8E47-8426D3CF0C97 (resized).jpeg
71A414B2-6083-4954-B5C0-93CE195712F1 (resized).jpeg
75B49D13-7EE7-4D1D-B58B-BF16F1EDB04F (resized).jpeg
4998ED85-982C-4011-8866-CEECE6DD9B20 (resized).jpeg
82872360-7580-4CC2-86F6-55D22B3DC17E (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 8244 posts in this topic. You are on page 158 of 165.
#7851 31 days ago

Having a odd issue with the crystal ball VUK. If I set it at its default coil power it is way too strong and the ball flies out and drains every time. The pin is level and when I bring it to 13 there are times it makes it and others that it does not have enough strength to make it up the vuk, then I assume it compensates and shoots it out at a faster rate which drains it. If I set to 14 it is too much power. 13 works 75% of the time and 10% to 15% on the 2nd try it makes it, however there is that 10% to 15% that on the 2nd kick out it s power is too strong and it drains.

Is it time for a new coil? Any suggestions are appreciated.

#7852 31 days ago
Quoted from brooklynknight:

Having a odd issue with the crystal ball VUK. If I set it at its default coil power it is way too strong and the ball flies out and drains every time. The pin is level and when I bring it to 13 there are times it makes it and others that it does not have enough strength to make it up the vuk, then I assume it compensates and shoots it out at a faster rate which drains it. If I set to 14 it is too much power. 13 works 75% of the time and 10% to 15% on the 2nd try it makes it, however there is that 10% to 15% that on the 2nd kick out it s power is too strong and it drains.
Is it time for a new coil? Any suggestions are appreciated.

Make sure the wireform is centered over the VUK.

#7853 31 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Doubt you want something used but I have one for sale.

But that doesn’t have 2.0 either, right?

#7854 31 days ago
Quoted from brooklynknight:

Having a odd issue with the crystal ball VUK. If I set it at its default coil power it is way too strong and the ball flies out and drains every time. The pin is level and when I bring it to 13 there are times it makes it and others that it does not have enough strength to make it up the vuk, then I assume it compensates and shoots it out at a faster rate which drains it. If I set to 14 it is too much power. 13 works 75% of the time and 10% to 15% on the 2nd try it makes it, however there is that 10% to 15% that on the 2nd kick out it s power is too strong and it drains.
Is it time for a new coil? Any suggestions are appreciated.

It's a delicate adjustment.
If you get 2 balls in there it over compensates and blows them out.

Adjust the vuk until the ball barely makes it out when the game is under load, like during multiball.

Wall power affects this a lot, so expect it to vary a little bit.

It stays hot until the ball ends.

#7855 31 days ago

A few questions to my fellow OZ citizens:

1. What causes the glass rails to be so tight it is hard to get the glass in or out? Is it simply bending of the metal side rail channels?
2. Causes for the crystal ball not to work? I reseated the connector and I can see a very dim "skill shot" arrow in it (all the time) but nothing else.
3. Should HOADC be collected on a ball launch (meaning the HOADC is collected when you launch a ball after you lock one)

Thanks!

#7856 31 days ago

HOADC on launch is a known bug in 7.01

#7857 31 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

HOADC on launch is a known bug in 7.01

Thanks

#7858 31 days ago

Looks like the glass tightness is a known issue.. took some searching to find this buried but:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pdi-glass-doesnt-fit-in-wozle#post-2020580

I literally can barely get mine out... I have to plant my hands on it and slide as hard as I can to get it started. I am going to try and bit of graphite dry lube in the channels and see if that frees it up at all. Maybe some wax?

#7859 31 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Looks like the glass tightness is a known issue.. took some searching to find this buried but:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pdi-glass-doesnt-fit-in-wozle#post-2020580
I literally can barely get mine out... I have to plant my hands on it and slide as hard as I can to get it started. I am going to try and bit of graphite dry lube in the channels and see if that frees it up at all. Maybe some wax?

Read up, and google it.
I recently got a sheet of glass and cut the shit out of my right hand reaching and pulling glass out of a machine. It was one day old, had just unwrapped it.
My point... I went to google and started the research of sanding the edges of the glass. About an hour later its very safe now. With the right sanding block wearing gloves and super high greet sandpaper a little water and I was able to polish all 4 edges. During the process i was easily able to get a 16th narrower.
You may be able to do the same and remove just enough on both sides to make it easier.
You could also take it to a glass shop and tell them you need it sanded on both long sides and fix it.
Easy peasy.

#7860 31 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Read up, and google it.
I recently got a sheet of glass and cut the shit out of my right hand reaching and pulling glass out of a machine. It was one day old, had just unwrapped it.
My point... I went to google and started the research of sanding the edges of the glass. About an hour later its very safe now. With the right sanding block wearing gloves and super high greet sandpaper a little water and I was able to polish all 4 edges. During the process i was easily able to get a 16th narrower.
You may be able to do the same and remove just enough on both sides to make it easier.
You could also take it to a glass shop and tell them you need it sanded on both long sides and fix it.
Easy peasy.

Ah man... sounds fun! The wax helped a bit. I'll think about the sanding or glass shop.

#7861 31 days ago

ltg I just don't have good luck with JJP lighting. Notice anything wrong in the pic?

0616192000 (resized).jpg

Been replacing the GI boards on my RR 2.0 as some were flickering, wrong shade of white, etc. I was getting close to done, did about 10 boards maybe. Went in to the test today to finish up and low and behold one of the old boards is now the wrong color. I had a little PTSD as this is the issue I was battling on my SE 5v system. Luckily, I know how much easier the 2.0 system is to work on. So, replaced the board and it didn't work at all... worried that it might be the connector or the "source" board for that smaller board I tried another new board and it worked. So even one of the new boards didn't work.

I think I'm going to try reseating the SD card in my crystal ball. I still have the "SKILL SHOT" graphic showing and that is all.

In other news my lighting work is basically done. I added a dimmer to the castle spotlight so I could control that independently as the 12v LED I wanted to use was too bright. It also has flashing effects and whatnot, but no need for those. I added another spot to the left of the haunted forest to give a more even light (I hate having that one spot so close but there aren't many options). Last thing I think I want to do is add a separate RGB dimmer for the trough versus the backboard, want to mix in different colors. I put on the fluorescent green plastic protectors, not sure if I am a fan yet.. the GI is just too dim there already for me. Side art blades installed too. I'd like to get the tornado lit up.. I have an idea for where to place the light but I really wanted it activated by the spinning house. I have an idea for that too, unless someone has done it? My phone makes everything look way more purple than it does and way more bright..

Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LY8hchY6SP7oozLx5

0616192006 (resized).jpg0616192006a (resized).jpg0616192006b (resized).jpg

And THIS is how you work on a game!
0616191840 (resized).jpg

#7862 31 days ago

Anyone have part numbers (Digi-Key?) for the correct 2 circuit molex's in WOZ? Example, the connectors used on this:

https://mezelmods.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/products/jersey-jack-pinball-power-kit?variant=2985809018909

#7863 31 days ago

I've ordered some. 2 pin D connector I think, I'll find the part number. .093 pin I believe.

Actually, if you look at my post history I have a WoZ lighting mod thread. Has all the parts in there I think. On mobile, too hard to look right now.

... ah nevermind I see you're already there. I'm fairly sure those are what I used, but I'll confirm

#7864 30 days ago
Quoted from johnnyutah:

I have been trying to join this club for the last month or so. I’ve been on the hunt for a Woz Standard NIB with 2.0 boards and think after yesterday I have exhausted all distributors in US/Canada. A few distributor websites still have listed for sale (and in stock) on their websites and after putting in your cart to purchase or inquiring through email I’ve been getting the “Sorry Out of stock” message. Bummer. I think it is safe to say that the Standard Editions are sold out everywhere despite some sites stock listings saying otherwise. If you are a distributor and reading this PM me if you have in stock.

Ditto for me - I'm trying to join the club as well. I may have to wait for the small run of Ruby Reds sometime this year that is supposedly being made. I hope the flying monkey doesn't get cut!!!

#7865 30 days ago

Having some odd behavior with the munchkin ball lock. Seems like balls won't release for multiball unless I press both flippers which causes them to release. Running version 6.61 code (need to update). Anyone else seen this?

#7866 30 days ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Having some odd behavior with the munchkin ball lock. Seems like balls won't release for multiball unless I press both flippers which causes them to release. Running version 6.61 code (need to update). Anyone else seen this?

Listening....Yes I have and am having this problem sometimes.

#7867 30 days ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Having some odd behavior with the munchkin ball lock. Seems like balls won't release for multiball unless I press both flippers which causes them to release. Running version 6.61 code (need to update). Anyone else seen this?

If it is lifting ok when no balls are in the lock then I am betting it is the bending trick that is needed.
See post #3398 in this thread

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only?tq=bend&tu=

#7868 30 days ago

Hurry while you can! Exclusive machine for sale!

ebay.com link

#7869 30 days ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

If it is lifting ok when no balls are in the lock then I am betting it is the bending trick that is needed.
See post #3398 in this thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only?tq=bend&tu=

Thank you! Will give that a try. Yeah lifts when no balls are locked as well as in test.

#7870 30 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hurry while you can! Exclusive machine for sale!
ebay.com link

I hope Slash delivers it personally for the $1250 shipping rate! That's a little too rich for my blood.....

#7871 30 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hurry while you can! Exclusive machine for sale!
ebay.com link

He won the Slash auction and tries to make some money from it !

#7872 30 days ago
Quoted from homegameroom:

Ditto for me - I'm trying to join the club as well. I may have to wait for the small run of Ruby Reds sometime this year that is supposedly being made. I hope the flying monkey doesn't get cut!!!

Has JJP made any official announcement of another RR run or is this rumor only?

#7873 30 days ago
Quoted from adamross:Has JJP made any official announcement of another RR run or is this rumor only?

From a PinballStar email I got yesterday, although have not heard anything from JJP directly:

454283EB-E3B8-4F54-8135-FFABE45E767D (resized).jpeg
#7874 30 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hurry while you can! Exclusive machine for sale!
ebay.com link

Nice catch Harry

I wonder if Slash regrets not having his Pinball now.... an Emerald is an Emerald.

#7875 29 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Listening....Yes I have and am having this problem sometimes.

Check for cold solder joints on the little coils under the munchkin hut.

My game was anemic on the lock bar until I reheated those wires

#7878 28 days ago

There was an auction house selling this and other things too. I wonder what they got for his spanking chair ?

LTG : )

#7879 28 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

There was an auction house selling this and other things too. I wonder what they got for his spanking chair ?
LTG : )

The buyer paid quite a heavy price for it. 8.750$ plus auction fees (20% or so). Doesn't look like the best investment to resell it right away, especially when there's not much about Slash but a picture of him !

wozslash (resized).PNG
#7881 28 days ago

So I have been trying to solve my monkey issue and finally got around to trying what ltg recommended. The scenario is my monkey works fine, goes all the way down, but when he tries to pick the ball up the success rate is around 50%.

From an observers perspective, it appears that the playfield magnet is not releasing at the right time or is holding on to the ball too strong.

So I flipped the playfield magnet, this resulted in the monkey only going halfway down? Totally confused, so I flipped the magnet back to the way it was. love any help or other things to try thank you.

#7882 28 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

any help or other things to try thank you.

Have you gone through the monkey sense switch tests in the game ? To see if that is all working.

LTG : )

#7883 28 days ago

Ok just tried the test I am getting no monkey sense and the magnet does not grab the ball in the test. I do get a "Top Lane Magnet" confirmation briefly but thats it

#7884 28 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I am getting no monkey sense

Fix that switch first. Might be bad, need moving, could be unplugged.

LTG : )

#7885 28 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I am getting no monkey sense

Here are all the hints I gathered to check and adjust the monkey sense switch.

http://www.pinplay.com/20/winged_monkey_misbehaving_wont_pick_up_the_ball_or_picks_up_nothing.html

Prop the playfield up at the front so the ball will rest on the monkey
magnet. This way you don't have to try and hold the ball on the magnet
while initiating the test. Go into tests, Top Lane Magnet Sensor Test.
Close the coin door or enable power to the coils with the interlock
switch. Place the ball on the magnet and press enter. You should see the
Monkey Magnet Sense switch activate when the magnet turns on.
_____________________________________________________________________________

I had a Non-working sensor, which in turn gave me a error dot/report on the LCD (lower right corner/red square).

I flipped the board over (circuit board turned in) and then got a over-sensitive (working) reading.

I then started moving the board to different locations to try to find a working one (circuit board still tuned inward)

After moving the board to 3-4 different locations I came across this one that seems to work great (see pictures)

WARNING: when testing the magnet gets VERY HOT rather quickly while in test mode. I personally would suggest backing out of the menu (one layer) and unplugging the sensor in between adjustments.

WARNING #2:
If you are unsure of just how hot your magnet is, AT YOUR OWN RISK, touch it, if it burns your finger/hand you should probably back out of the test menu for about 10 minutes or so to let it cool down.

Remember, a hot magnet may give a bad reading.
__________________________________________________________________

My Monkey Magnet Sensor was also not working after upgrading to 4.0. All it needed was for the magnet to be flipped.

1) lift up the playfield all the way
2) unscrew the 3 screws holding the monkey magnet. there is no need to unplug anything.
3) carefully remove the magnet housing and center pole and you will see the donut shaped magnet
4) remove the magnet off the pole and flip it over and reinstall
_____________________________________________________________________

To test the Monkey switch, you need to test it with and without a ball. If you go into the monkey magnet test (under device tests), you can hit the start button to activate the magnet. The switch should NOT be active when this happens. In the test, you should see the box for the magnet active, but not the switch. Then, hit the start button again, but this time with a ball on the magnet(easy to test this by having the playfield pulled up and on the first rail position). Now, your monkey magnet detect switch should be active along with the magnet. This switch will only ever activate if there is an active magnet present. Just putting a ball next to it won't do anything. Some of the games were built before this mode was fully vested out, so the switches may not be calibrated in the right position, and could use adjustment.

If your switch is always active when the magnet is on, you will need to re-position the switch. Try holding it in a place you can mount it, and try the magnet with and without a ball on it to see if it trips the way it should (only with a ball on it). Once you find a good spot, screw it back down and test it again.

Another complication is that the switch is a Hall Effect sensor, and will only sense a certain magnetic field orientation. If the big magnet underneath the playfield is not North South relative to the playfield, your hall effect sensor will not register. Because the magnet can be mounted in either direction, and there is no indication, there are a couple things you can do to make sure yours is correct, or simple ways to change it. Easiest thing to do is just flip the monkey magnet detect board over (so the hall effect, resistor, and connector are now away from the panel instead of against it, or vice-verse).

LTG : )

#7886 28 days ago

so ya as far as I can tell the sensor is not working i removed it from the backboard and swiped the ball in front of it nothing, I tried moving it to different positions on the backboard, nothing. The weird thing is that the magnet holds the ball in game.... just the monkey can't seem to pick it up.

EDIT: Ok i did not have the coin door closed now its working just fine.

this is the right sensor correct
sensor (resized).png

#7887 28 days ago

Thanks ltg that link was very helpful, so it seems to be working fine now... when I initially pulled off the sensor board, the sensor was slightly bent... i straightened it out, and reattached it and sees to be working great no.... ionno

#7888 28 days ago
Quoted from adamross:

This is even more absurd.
ebay.com link » Mtv Moon Man Slash Guns And Roses 1987 1988 Welcome To The Jungle Gnr</blockquote

#7889 28 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'd like to get the tornado lit up.. I have an idea for where to place the light but I really wanted it activated by the spinning house. I have an idea for that too, unless someone has done it? My phone makes everything look way more purple than it does and way more bright..
Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LY8hchY6SP7oozLx5
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
And THIS is how you work on a game!
[quoted image]

Just check what the voltage is on the motor spinning the house. If it's twelve or five volts just parallell-couple a led highlighting the twister. If it's more volts, just serial couple a resistor in that led-parallell line.
The extra load on the board feeding should be negligable.

Btw i think your game looks great. Well done.

#7890 28 days ago
Quoted from Dr-pin:

Just check what the voltage is on the motor spinning the house. If it's twelve or five volts just parallell-couple a led highlighting the twister. If it's more volts, just serial couple a resistor in that led-parallell line.
The extra load on the board feeding should be negligable.
Btw i think your game looks great. Well done.

Interesting, I didn't think to tap in to that. I'll definitely check out the voltage!

Thanks

#7891 28 days ago

Dangit.. now my WOZ head on the throne room is flickering. Why is a basic LED light strip so prone to failure? Shouldn't this thing last a long time?

I'm just going to make up my own, thank you very much for that....

pasted_image (resized).png
#7892 28 days ago

Does anyone know if this is the same as the flipper for the munchkin playfield? https://www.pinballlife.com/tspp-upper-playfield-yellow-mini-flipper-bat.html

#7893 27 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Dangit.. now my WOZ head on the throne room is flickering. Why is a basic LED light strip so prone to failure? Shouldn't this thing last a long time?
I'm just going to make up my own, thank you very much for that....[quoted image]

Contact JJP and see if they’ll do you better in the shipping...that seems high for a part that fits in USPS envelope.

My theories for its common failure are:

1. The older design of the LED strip didn’t have heat shrink on the far end of the LED strip, and thus possibly prone to “grounding/shorting out” on the metal U channel it sits in..

2. It’s confined location builds up too much heat in the somewhat sensitive LEDs themselves, not allowing adequate airflow for cooling.

Either way, replacing it will most likely fix your issue. If you do buy a strip of green LEDs, you’ll have a lifetime supply of fixes. If I recall correctly it’s only 3 LEDs on the strip!

#7894 27 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Does anyone know if this is the same as the flipper for the munchkin playfield? https://www.pinballlife.com/tspp-upper-playfield-yellow-mini-flipper-bat.html

Should be yes Sir

#7895 27 days ago

@harryhoudini believe its just a 2" mini flipper, that particular one has the long shaft you don't want that, its same as the Black Pearl flipper:
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-yellow-mini-flipper-bat-and-shaft-assembly.html

#7896 27 days ago

BIG day today ! I got 3 emeralds, 50 YBR, Emerald city multiball and Haunted forest. So I'm almost half way to SOTR, it's exciting and frustrating at the same time because some of them I feel nowhere near close to getting them while getting them all in the same game looks like a dream.

Anyways getting there one step at a time, I still need to be more precise on the shots and train more in staying in control during multiballs, but wow I love this game !

#7897 27 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

@harryhoudini believe its just a 2" mini flipper, that particular one has the long shaft you don't want that, its same as the Black Pearl flipper:
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-yellow-mini-flipper-bat-and-shaft-assembly.html

It's definitely longer than normal. It goes all the way down through the main playfield, the coil is not under the munchkin playfield.

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Should be yes Sir

Many thanks.. mine is all marred from the old rubber that was on it and what self respecting pinball owner isn't anal about that? Sadly, doesn't have the JJP logo on it... maybe I'll ask Shannan what the cost is and get the green LED strip as well.

Quoted from mavantix:

Contact JJP and see if they’ll do you better in the shipping...that seems high for a part that fits in USPS envelope.
My theories for its common failure are:
1. The older design of the LED strip didn’t have heat shrink on the far end of the LED strip, and thus possibly prone to “grounding/shorting out” on the metal U channel it sits in..
2. It’s confined location builds up too much heat in the somewhat sensitive LEDs themselves, not allowing adequate airflow for cooling.
Either way, replacing it will most likely fix your issue. If you do buy a strip of green LEDs, you’ll have a lifetime supply of fixes. If I recall correctly it’s only 3 LEDs on the strip!

Last time I asked about the online shipping versus directly quoted shipping I believe I was told it was the same, but I'll confirm.

I have a roll of RGB strips that can be set to any one color without a controller (just wire up DC+ and then - to whatever color RGB you want). So, I already have the stuff... my strip doesn't have the waterproof coating which probably has two repercussions.. one, less protection from the head sitting on top of it and two, might not get as hot since that stuff traps heat and so it might last longer. Either way, like you said, the stuff is cheap compared to how much is needed.

#7898 25 days ago

Hi, I want to join the club, so I'm wondering if there is any WOZ out there (in Europe) that I can buy...

I'm in love with this machine

#7899 25 days ago

I'm about to pick up an Emerald with 1.0 board issues. The game comes with the 2.0 kit, but it might take me a while to free up the time to do the install.

I'm wondering if in the interim, if it's possible (and makes sense) to replace the old boards with the same parts just to get it up and running?

Can anyone shed light on this. Could I just figure out what 1.0 boards are bad, and just get a 1.0 replacement for them?

#7900 25 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I'm about to pick up an Emerald with 1.0 board issues. The game comes with the 2.0 kit, but it might take me a while to free up the time to do the install.
I'm wondering if in the interim, if it's possible (and makes sense) to replace the old boards with the same parts just to get it up and running?
Can anyone shed light on this. Could I just figure out what 1.0 boards are bad, and just get a 1.0 replacement for them?

Yes, you can diagnose the boards using the method in the manual and figure out which are bad. JJP can sell you the older boards. Or, you can find someone who recently did the 2.0 conversion and buy their old boards off of them assuming they are working. Depending upon how many are out on your game, the latter might be cheaper as buying the individual boards can be expensive.

My 2 cents, just do the conversion. It will take 12 hours plus or minus, but you can spread it out over many days and do it in chunks so it is more manageable. I wouldn’t waste your money on buying replacement 1.0 boards if your are ultimately going to convert.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 279.95
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 11,500.00
From: $ 42.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
ModFather Pinball Mods
7,200
Machine - For Sale
Richmond, TX
From: $ 42.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
ModFather Pinball Mods
There are 8244 posts in this topic. You are on page 158 of 165.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside